spongy brake pedal
#1
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
spongy brake pedal
i did my rear brakes a little over a year ago, and i never adjusted them yet
could this be causing a spongy brake pedal? it honestly feels like the rear brakes (drums) arent even working
i checked the fluid and it was full, i didnt notice any leaks either
please help, because i need my car in the morning
thanx
could this be causing a spongy brake pedal? it honestly feels like the rear brakes (drums) arent even working
i checked the fluid and it was full, i didnt notice any leaks either
please help, because i need my car in the morning
thanx
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Bleed your brakes. Spongy brakes means you have air in the system. Hydraulics don't compress under pressure but air does.
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
If you start getting a hissing noise when you push down the pedal and the problem gets worse, you'll need a power brake booster.
But yeah, I'd guess bleeding the brakes'd do it.
But yeah, I'd guess bleeding the brakes'd do it.
#5
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
well, i did indeed replace a brake hose yesterday because whenever i braked hard, my car would pull to that side
then i bled my front brakes, seemed to get a little better, but not much
i'll mess with it more today after work
thanx guys
then i bled my front brakes, seemed to get a little better, but not much
i'll mess with it more today after work
thanx guys
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Do yourself a favor, bleed the brakes the free and easy way.
Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder. Run the tube into something to hold the fluid. Take the cover off the master cylinder and top it off w/ fluid. Now crack that first bleeder screw open and leave it alone. Every so often check on the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't run low on fluid. Gravity will do all the work for you. In my experiece, it usually takes about 10-15 minutes per wheel. After letting each one bleed, close the bleeder screw off and move the next wheel, always doing the furthest one from the MC next. This is a good time to go ahead and get all the old nasty fluid out. Just wait until the fluid coming from each wheel is clear, then move on.
The only way that's better than this method is having access to a vacuum pump to force bleed the system.
HTH
Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder. Run the tube into something to hold the fluid. Take the cover off the master cylinder and top it off w/ fluid. Now crack that first bleeder screw open and leave it alone. Every so often check on the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't run low on fluid. Gravity will do all the work for you. In my experiece, it usually takes about 10-15 minutes per wheel. After letting each one bleed, close the bleeder screw off and move the next wheel, always doing the furthest one from the MC next. This is a good time to go ahead and get all the old nasty fluid out. Just wait until the fluid coming from each wheel is clear, then move on.
The only way that's better than this method is having access to a vacuum pump to force bleed the system.
HTH
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