87_TA

Hi all,
Last year I replaced my 9 bolt with a narrowed 10 bolt from a
4th generation,along with the rearend i put on the larger 4th gen brakes and rotors.
Well they barely work,Do I need to change the porportioning
valve? If so do i have to buy an adjustable?

ede

if you have the flat sided machined looking aluminum PV you shouldn't have to change it. you might want to look for a restriction in the hydrolic system.

87_TA

Well I deffinitely have the flat sided and machined looking
PV. hmmmm.
But wouldnt you think that if there was a restriction it would not bleed good?
Since i had the resivoir totally empty do you think that i have to bleed the pv itself? it has some kind of fitting on front and back
of it?

Thanks for help.

scauffiel

When I put my fourth gen rear discs on my ten bolt they initially didn't work for crap; just like the third gen discs that were on before that. So, I did the prop valve modification that removes the valve giving more pressure to the rear and it helps get more pressure to the rears than normal. You can check out what I did on my web site here.

Steve

EDIT: Go to "Suspension/Brakes -> OEM Prop Valve Mod"

87_TA

Thanks a million, mine are soo weak though if you jack up the rear w/car in drive and stab the brakes they initially come to a stop but then will start moving again in a matter of a second
ant thats just at idle...
were yours that bad?
Do i have to plug the hole in the end of the cap like you did?
I might as well try that ,it surely can not hurt.

Thanks again.

scauffiel

Yeah, my thirdgen brakes were that bad, and yes you have to plug that hole in the end otherwise you'll shoot fluid all over the place. Check out this link for more info: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=prop+valve

S.

87_TA

Well i did it,and thanks a million..
Man what a difference !!!!! Im so glad you replied to this ,I had people telling me i had to change both the PV and the master
cylinder.
They actually work now,Thanks again.