Anyone ever order from Ground Control before?...
#1
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
Anyone ever order from Ground Control before?...
if so did it take longer then 3 weeks O_o Cause they told me when I ordered it 1.5 weeks. Two days after the date they said I would get it I called them. They told me another week. Well...its a few days after that day and I still have no coil overs in my damn hands....anyone else have problems like this with them?
#2
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
well I just called them and they said they are still building the weight jacks and that I should get the coil overs by wednesday or thursday. Oh well...atleast its before the big camaro cruise going on the 7th.
And to all the Camaro people on this board who are on Oahu. Sunday, July 7th is a huge camaro cruise. check out http://www.hawaiianislandcamaros.org for more info.
And to all the Camaro people on this board who are on Oahu. Sunday, July 7th is a huge camaro cruise. check out http://www.hawaiianislandcamaros.org for more info.
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
Hey about their camber kit was it hard to put it? seems you have to modify the strut mount part to get it in. Or like you gotta pull out a peice and put theirs in. how hard was it to put in? thanks.
#5
Well...
The plate replaces the rubber puck and bearing
with a spherical bearing. The top of the strut mount
plate has to be seperated from the bottom.
You just use a drill to cut the welds 7/16 i think ....
You then remove a bit of the bottom plate with
a sabre saw or some such...
I glued the top and bottom halves together with
a patch panel adhesive (good for body work)
The only tricky part is that the spherical bearing
is thicker than the old bearing so when mounting
the KYB strut it was somewhat tricky to tighten.
( hex key through a socket, pipe wrench on the socket)
The plate replaces the rubber puck and bearing
with a spherical bearing. The top of the strut mount
plate has to be seperated from the bottom.
You just use a drill to cut the welds 7/16 i think ....
You then remove a bit of the bottom plate with
a sabre saw or some such...
I glued the top and bottom halves together with
a patch panel adhesive (good for body work)
The only tricky part is that the spherical bearing
is thicker than the old bearing so when mounting
the KYB strut it was somewhat tricky to tighten.
( hex key through a socket, pipe wrench on the socket)
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
I've had the caster/camber adjusters for about two years.
urbman's description of how they go in is correct.
I welded the upper and lower halves back together after removing the rubber.
Had to remove a bit of material around the opening in the lower half.They work well and increase length of travel in lowered cars.
The Sperical bearing doesn't allow as much of the strut shaft to protrude for the nut, so aircraft nuts that some come with may not work.
I also bought the Ground Control Strut Tower Brace (upper stress bar) and it works great and clears the air cleaner in my TBI car.
-Rich-
urbman's description of how they go in is correct.
I welded the upper and lower halves back together after removing the rubber.
Had to remove a bit of material around the opening in the lower half.They work well and increase length of travel in lowered cars.
The Sperical bearing doesn't allow as much of the strut shaft to protrude for the nut, so aircraft nuts that some come with may not work.
I also bought the Ground Control Strut Tower Brace (upper stress bar) and it works great and clears the air cleaner in my TBI car.
-Rich-
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