My new 383 track times
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
My new 383 track times
I took the camaro to the track for the first time. The results were kind of dissapointing. What do you guys think?
Best time was my second run, my car specs are:
383 roller shortblock
10.7 :1 compression ratio
TFS 195 heads
crane cams 214 & 220 deg @.050 112 lobe sep
.472 and .495 lift with 1.6 rockers
edelbrock intake manifold
SLP runners
stock trotlebody & MAFS
stock chip
adjustable fuel pressure reg.
hooker 1 5/8 shorty headers
timming is on the stock possition
I used 91 octane gas and a bottle of lucas octane booster. I didn't have any detonation problems.
I was thinking on a custom chip, but I don't know if that's going to help much.
What is your 383 making on the 1/4 mi.?
Any opinions in what is holding me back?
Best time was my second run, my car specs are:
383 roller shortblock
10.7 :1 compression ratio
TFS 195 heads
crane cams 214 & 220 deg @.050 112 lobe sep
.472 and .495 lift with 1.6 rockers
edelbrock intake manifold
SLP runners
stock trotlebody & MAFS
stock chip
adjustable fuel pressure reg.
hooker 1 5/8 shorty headers
timming is on the stock possition
I used 91 octane gas and a bottle of lucas octane booster. I didn't have any detonation problems.
I was thinking on a custom chip, but I don't know if that's going to help much.
What is your 383 making on the 1/4 mi.?
Any opinions in what is holding me back?
#3
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A few questions
Injector size?
Rear Gears?
Trans?
Converter if auto?
Any tire spin?
Shift rpm?
Race track?
And after all the questions do you have a way to get a data scan on it. (Datamaster, Diacom or auto X-ray.)
That combo if tuned right can go 13.1 to 13.4 very easy at a good air track.
Jerry
Injector size?
Rear Gears?
Trans?
Converter if auto?
Any tire spin?
Shift rpm?
Race track?
And after all the questions do you have a way to get a data scan on it. (Datamaster, Diacom or auto X-ray.)
That combo if tuned right can go 13.1 to 13.4 very easy at a good air track.
Jerry
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Car: 84 Camaro. 90 integra
Engine: LG4, 1.6 (402hp)
Transmission: 700r4, JDM ITR w/ kaaz LSD
i am gonna cry.... i am planing to get a create motor w/ 300hp and 350 torque and no nothing like a 383 and and i was thinking high 13's and low 14's but if a 383 can make 14.50's w/ all that done to it.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
My injectors are 24#,
rear gears 3.41,
700R4 tranny w/ stock converter,
I shifted at around 6500 RPM, I tried some diferent shift points, but the car worked best when I left it on second and then manually shifted to third.
I have regular street tires, but I get very little tire spin, if any.
I had to lower the air pressure on the rear tires to get better traction.
the track was the Los Angeles County Racetrack in Palmdale
I know that there is some corrections that have to be made due to the altitude of the track, but, I'm not sure how to do that.
riceeater, don't get desapponted, I know that my combo is capable of delivering more performance, it's just not that easy to get thigs to work the way they are suposed to for the first time.
rear gears 3.41,
700R4 tranny w/ stock converter,
I shifted at around 6500 RPM, I tried some diferent shift points, but the car worked best when I left it on second and then manually shifted to third.
I have regular street tires, but I get very little tire spin, if any.
I had to lower the air pressure on the rear tires to get better traction.
the track was the Los Angeles County Racetrack in Palmdale
I know that there is some corrections that have to be made due to the altitude of the track, but, I'm not sure how to do that.
i am gonna cry.... i am planing to get a create motor w/ 300hp and 350 torque and no nothing like a 383 and and i was thinking high 13's and low 14's but if a 383 can make 14.50's w/ all that done to it.
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Car: 1993 GMC Typhoon
Engine: 4.3 Turbo
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
im agreeing with Cali on this one..
and i think you really really need a custom tune. you would be surprised how much that will help.
why did you choose a that lift cam?
also shifting at 6500rpm?? isnt that past your car's power band? stock TPI drops at 4500.. is your car still pulling at that RPM? Allen who is on this board has his shift points @ 6000 but im pretty sure he has a different converter.
my 60ft time is almost identical to yours.. but i pulled a 13.94@98.89 but your motor & tranny are completely diff to mine.
355 TPI 6 speed.
and i think you really really need a custom tune. you would be surprised how much that will help.
why did you choose a that lift cam?
also shifting at 6500rpm?? isnt that past your car's power band? stock TPI drops at 4500.. is your car still pulling at that RPM? Allen who is on this board has his shift points @ 6000 but im pretty sure he has a different converter.
my 60ft time is almost identical to yours.. but i pulled a 13.94@98.89 but your motor & tranny are completely diff to mine.
355 TPI 6 speed.
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Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
Re: My new 383 track times
Here's some problems I see.
That stock chip isn't helping, especially with 24# injectors. The computer can't control them properly.
Also, it sounds like you still have some restrictions in the set-up — i.e stock throttle body. 1 3/4 headers would be better for a 383. Is your plenum ported at all?
Originally posted by socal85tam
stock trotlebody & MAFS
stock chip
hooker 1 5/8 shorty headers
Any opinions in what is holding me back?
stock trotlebody & MAFS
stock chip
hooker 1 5/8 shorty headers
Any opinions in what is holding me back?
Also, it sounds like you still have some restrictions in the set-up — i.e stock throttle body. 1 3/4 headers would be better for a 383. Is your plenum ported at all?
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
I think you guys are right about the stock chip and TB.
I built this motor last year, and it was not going to be strictly a drag racing car, I wanted to keep it streetable. And in fact is a very fun car to drive on the street
I have had this intake combo on the stock 350 since 2002 and it worked really nice. But last year I decided to change the motor, so, I kept all the bolt on stuff I had on the old one.
My plans are to see if I can get good performance with this intake combination without spending a fortune in the process. If keeping the TPI is going to be too costly, I might change to a carb.
I did because I got a very good deal on it, and also because its the biggest cam crane makes for TPI
My TPI is not stock
The plenum is not ported, nor are the runners, so, there is some room for improvement there.
Thanks for all your possitive input
I built this motor last year, and it was not going to be strictly a drag racing car, I wanted to keep it streetable. And in fact is a very fun car to drive on the street
I have had this intake combo on the stock 350 since 2002 and it worked really nice. But last year I decided to change the motor, so, I kept all the bolt on stuff I had on the old one.
My plans are to see if I can get good performance with this intake combination without spending a fortune in the process. If keeping the TPI is going to be too costly, I might change to a carb.
why did you choose a that lift cam?
also shifting at 6500rpm?? isnt that past your car's power band? stock TPI drops at 4500.. is your car still pulling at that RPM?
The plenum is not ported, nor are the runners, so, there is some room for improvement there.
Thanks for all your possitive input
#12
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If you have an 88 IROC as in your profile, then you cant switch to a carb and keep it street legal.
You dont have to use a "TPI" cam, especially not with a 383 and Trick Flow heads. That TPI cam is made for stock heads and a stock engine.
I bet your car runs pretty rich. Your biggest obstacles right now are the stock chip ( I can make you a custom one ) and your stock torque converter. Upgrade both, and you'll pick up a second in the quarter mile.
You dont have to use a "TPI" cam, especially not with a 383 and Trick Flow heads. That TPI cam is made for stock heads and a stock engine.
I bet your car runs pretty rich. Your biggest obstacles right now are the stock chip ( I can make you a custom one ) and your stock torque converter. Upgrade both, and you'll pick up a second in the quarter mile.
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I think you are going way past your power peak when you shift at 6500. You say your tpi is not stock, but that your runners and plenum are not ported. What is not stock? Allan is running higher rpms with his combo, but he has his runners siamesed so that they are part of the plenum. It reduces his "runner length" from 28 inches or so to about 10 inches. What is "tuned" about tpi is wave length for the intake charge. The longer the "tuned length" of the runners the lower the power comes on and the sooner it runs out of the tuned length. When you go much past the tuned length of the runners with your rpm, the runners actually hinder airflow instead of helping.
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Car: Trans Am/Kenworth
Engine: 383/435 Cat
Transmission: T5/10 speed
Originally posted by 12secSS
Corrected to "sea level" would be 14.0 @ 98. That is the most mismatched combo I have ever heard of.
Corrected to "sea level" would be 14.0 @ 98. That is the most mismatched combo I have ever heard of.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
I think that I'm going to port the plenum and siames the runners, as soon as I have a chance.
Kevin, I'm going to P.M. you in a couple of weeks so that you can custom burn a chip for me. Will my stock TB flow enough to at least see significant improovements from a custom chip?
I did the math and the corrected times are as follows:
1/4 mi 14.158 @ 97.5 Mph
1/8 mi 9.198 @ 79 Mph
If some tunning and a converter swap can make the car a second faster a kevin says, that will get me to low 13s at sea level which is not too bad. Mabe then a cam swap will get me in to the 12s. Im I being way too optimistic here? Mabe is not as easy as it sounds. You guys with more experience can tell me if I'm wrong, I dont mind, after all I just found out that I have the most mistmatched combo here in the boards
Kevin, I'm going to P.M. you in a couple of weeks so that you can custom burn a chip for me. Will my stock TB flow enough to at least see significant improovements from a custom chip?
I did the math and the corrected times are as follows:
1/4 mi 14.158 @ 97.5 Mph
1/8 mi 9.198 @ 79 Mph
If some tunning and a converter swap can make the car a second faster a kevin says, that will get me to low 13s at sea level which is not too bad. Mabe then a cam swap will get me in to the 12s. Im I being way too optimistic here? Mabe is not as easy as it sounds. You guys with more experience can tell me if I'm wrong, I dont mind, after all I just found out that I have the most mistmatched combo here in the boards
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Just to let you know guys what a little porting is worth.
I ported my plenum and the runners and gained practically half a second in the 1/4 mi.
My prior best corrected run was 14.16 @ 97.5 mph
Today's best corrected run was 13.68 @101.8 mph
Not too bad for a few hours of porting.
I'm still running the stock chip, TB w/out air foil, and, MAFS. So, there's room for improovement there.
I ported my plenum and the runners and gained practically half a second in the 1/4 mi.
My prior best corrected run was 14.16 @ 97.5 mph
Today's best corrected run was 13.68 @101.8 mph
Not too bad for a few hours of porting.
I'm still running the stock chip, TB w/out air foil, and, MAFS. So, there's room for improovement there.
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Originally posted by socal85tam
Just to let you know guys what a little porting is worth.
I ported my plenum and the runners and gained practically half a second in the 1/4 mi.
My prior best corrected run was 14.16 @ 97.5 mph
Today's best corrected run was 13.68 @101.8 mph
Not too bad for a few hours of porting.
I'm still running the stock chip, TB w/out air foil, and, MAFS. So, there's room for improovement there.
Just to let you know guys what a little porting is worth.
I ported my plenum and the runners and gained practically half a second in the 1/4 mi.
My prior best corrected run was 14.16 @ 97.5 mph
Today's best corrected run was 13.68 @101.8 mph
Not too bad for a few hours of porting.
I'm still running the stock chip, TB w/out air foil, and, MAFS. So, there's room for improovement there.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Update:
I got a custom chip installed, a 2800 vigilante torque converter, 58mm TB, and with M/T et Streets, got a best 1/8 mi run of 8.52 sec. I want to get some 1/4 mi slips now to see the improovement. Does anyone, know how to convert 1/8 mi times to 1/4 mi? Something was messed up with the sensors or the computers at the track, so, I was not able to get 60ft times, nor speed.
Mabe time for a custom cold air induction. Also have been thinking about loosing the A/C, I'm still debating.
I also found out that my stock tach is off by 1000 to 1500 RPMs, that's why it seems that I shift past my powerband.
I got a custom chip installed, a 2800 vigilante torque converter, 58mm TB, and with M/T et Streets, got a best 1/8 mi run of 8.52 sec. I want to get some 1/4 mi slips now to see the improovement. Does anyone, know how to convert 1/8 mi times to 1/4 mi? Something was messed up with the sensors or the computers at the track, so, I was not able to get 60ft times, nor speed.
Mabe time for a custom cold air induction. Also have been thinking about loosing the A/C, I'm still debating.
I also found out that my stock tach is off by 1000 to 1500 RPMs, that's why it seems that I shift past my powerband.
Last edited by socal85tam; 09-20-2005 at 01:31 PM.
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Originally posted by socal85tam
Update:
I got a custom chip installed, a 2800 vigilante torque converter, 58mm TB, and with M/T et Streets, got a best 1/8 mi run of 8.52 sec. I want to get some 1/4 mi slips now to see the improovement. Does anyone, know how to convert 1/8 mi times to 1/4 mi? Something was messed up with the sensors or the computers at the track, so, I was not able to get 60ft times, nor speed.
Mabe time for a custom cold air induction. Also have been thinking about loosing the A/C, I'm still debating
Update:
I got a custom chip installed, a 2800 vigilante torque converter, 58mm TB, and with M/T et Streets, got a best 1/8 mi run of 8.52 sec. I want to get some 1/4 mi slips now to see the improovement. Does anyone, know how to convert 1/8 mi times to 1/4 mi? Something was messed up with the sensors or the computers at the track, so, I was not able to get 60ft times, nor speed.
Mabe time for a custom cold air induction. Also have been thinking about loosing the A/C, I'm still debating
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
If you are thinking of removing the a/c for better times, it won't make any difference unless you have been running with the a/c turned on. The total weight savings will be less than 25#, and when the a/c is deenergised, you are just turning a freewheeling ball bearing.
Thanks for the feedback
#23
Originally posted by socal85tam
I'm no really expecting better times by remooving the A/C, the problem that I'm having right now is that the car tends to over heat when sitting in traffic, at 100sh degree weather, so, I'm going to experiment to see if getting rid of the A/C condenser helps my radiator cooldown better. I hope I can find a better way to keep it cool, I really like having A/C.
Thanks for the feedback
I'm no really expecting better times by remooving the A/C, the problem that I'm having right now is that the car tends to over heat when sitting in traffic, at 100sh degree weather, so, I'm going to experiment to see if getting rid of the A/C condenser helps my radiator cooldown better. I hope I can find a better way to keep it cool, I really like having A/C.
Thanks for the feedback
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lol, yeah, id say tune and 6500 shifting... i have a 350 TBI and it will run faster than 14.8 in the 1/4 and its got a stock chip, stock swirl port heads and a stock intake... shift 1-2 manually and let it shift 2-3 itself... i have 3.23 posi gears and a 700R4... you have 33 more cid than me, and better injection system... and MUCH better heads... its all in the tune...
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Well, I can tell you that the new custom chip made a lot of difference, I mean, I can really feel it at part throttle, mabe with a little more time, we can we can improove it.
My best 1/8 my run prior to the chip & T. convetrer 8.89 sec
Now the best run was 8.52 sec on the 1/8mi
So there was an improovement of practically 4 tenths. I supose that on the 1/4mi with good traction it should be anywhere between mid to low 13s.
I was thinking on swapping the cam, but, we'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions Branden, I do have a tranny cooler, griffin rad, pema cool 12" & 14" fans, lower temp fan switch, and 180 temp thermostat. I'm only having the problem when sitting still in traffic, it could be that because of my underdrive pulley, the pump is not mooving enough water when idleing, so, I'm going to upgrade my water pump, but now that summer is gone, I might have to wait until next year to see if the problem is still there.
My best 1/8 my run prior to the chip & T. convetrer 8.89 sec
Now the best run was 8.52 sec on the 1/8mi
So there was an improovement of practically 4 tenths. I supose that on the 1/4mi with good traction it should be anywhere between mid to low 13s.
I was thinking on swapping the cam, but, we'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions Branden, I do have a tranny cooler, griffin rad, pema cool 12" & 14" fans, lower temp fan switch, and 180 temp thermostat. I'm only having the problem when sitting still in traffic, it could be that because of my underdrive pulley, the pump is not mooving enough water when idleing, so, I'm going to upgrade my water pump, but now that summer is gone, I might have to wait until next year to see if the problem is still there.
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Originally posted by socal85tam
I'm no really expecting better times by remooving the A/C, the problem that I'm having right now is that the car tends to over heat when sitting in traffic, at 100sh degree weather, so, I'm going to experiment to see if getting rid of the A/C condenser helps my radiator cooldown better. I hope I can find a better way to keep it cool, I really like having A/C.
Thanks for the feedback
I'm no really expecting better times by remooving the A/C, the problem that I'm having right now is that the car tends to over heat when sitting in traffic, at 100sh degree weather, so, I'm going to experiment to see if getting rid of the A/C condenser helps my radiator cooldown better. I hope I can find a better way to keep it cool, I really like having A/C.
Thanks for the feedback
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
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Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Is there rust and scale in your radiator?
I do have a tranny cooler, griffin rad, pema cool 12" & 14" fans, lower temp fan switch, and 180 temp thermostat.
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I would do the upgrade on the water pump, next spring and see what difference it makes. Also keep the fins cleaned out on both the radiator and the condenser. Is the trans cooler in front of the condenser? If a trans cooler preheats the air coming into the condenser, it could adversely affect the a/c operation.
#30
Yeah with all that done to the vehicle it should be running normal temps.. My car runs cool with what has been done to it, but Im on a side note just like SoCaltam in a 100 degree weather stopped in freeway traffic my temps rise.. Any other lower temps or rolling constant the temps are way cool.. I dont have a big Alum radiator however, But I know if I had a better fan system I be maybe looking better.. The Dual stock fans can only handle the cfm a stock engine needs.. Then to consider 3rdgen's are heat soakers.. Some say the hood instulation is not needed it's for cold weather.. However I could consider I beg to differ.. Hopefully with a better water pump and a choice of thermo to go with it.. Hopefully next year things will be looking better for you..
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Originally posted by socal85tam
Well, I can tell you that the new custom chip made a lot of difference, I mean, I can really feel it at part throttle, mabe with a little more time, we can we can improove it.
My best 1/8 my run prior to the chip & T. convetrer 8.89 sec
Now the best run was 8.52 sec on the 1/8mi
So there was an improovement of practically 4 tenths. I supose that on the 1/4mi with good traction it should be anywhere between mid to low 13s.
I was thinking on swapping the cam, but, we'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions Branden, I do have a tranny cooler, griffin rad, pema cool 12" & 14" fans, lower temp fan switch, and 180 temp thermostat. I'm only having the problem when sitting still in traffic, it could be that because of my underdrive pulley, the pump is not mooving enough water when idleing, so, I'm going to upgrade my water pump, but now that summer is gone, I might have to wait until next year to see if the problem is still there.
Well, I can tell you that the new custom chip made a lot of difference, I mean, I can really feel it at part throttle, mabe with a little more time, we can we can improove it.
My best 1/8 my run prior to the chip & T. convetrer 8.89 sec
Now the best run was 8.52 sec on the 1/8mi
So there was an improovement of practically 4 tenths. I supose that on the 1/4mi with good traction it should be anywhere between mid to low 13s.
I was thinking on swapping the cam, but, we'll see.
Thanks for the suggestions Branden, I do have a tranny cooler, griffin rad, pema cool 12" & 14" fans, lower temp fan switch, and 180 temp thermostat. I'm only having the problem when sitting still in traffic, it could be that because of my underdrive pulley, the pump is not mooving enough water when idleing, so, I'm going to upgrade my water pump, but now that summer is gone, I might have to wait until next year to see if the problem is still there.
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mine does the same thing with a 16" fan and a summit 2 core aluminum radiator. all my stuff is in place, i blame mine on airflow... my fan only pulls 1100cfm through the radiator, its just not enough to keep my aluminum radiator cool... im upgrading to a 3600cfm dual 14" setup when i can, that should keep it cool.... that and a high flow water pump... mines all stock..
#33
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Is the air dam on the car?
I'm gonna do what russ sugests and wait until next summer to experiment wit a few things, mabe I'll swap my original pulley and see what difference it makes. I'm almost sure is an air flow problem, because the temp of the motor starts dropping as soon as the car its going at least 30mi/h. I'll let you guys know next year what was the problem.
#34
Originally posted by socal85tam
The air dam is intact. Since this is only happening when sitting at idle for a while, I'm thinking it could be one of two things: One, it could be that the alt does not keep the battery fully charged when idleing because of the underdrive pulley consequently the electric fans do not work at full speed, or Two: that the water pump does not circulate enough water at idle for the same reason(underdrive pulley). Or three: It could be both things combined.
I'm gonna do what russ sugests and wait until next summer to experiment wit a few things, mabe I'll swap my original pulley and see what difference it makes. I'm almost sure is an air flow problem, because the temp of the motor starts dropping as soon as the car its going at least 30mi/h. I'll let you guys know next year what was the problem.
The air dam is intact. Since this is only happening when sitting at idle for a while, I'm thinking it could be one of two things: One, it could be that the alt does not keep the battery fully charged when idleing because of the underdrive pulley consequently the electric fans do not work at full speed, or Two: that the water pump does not circulate enough water at idle for the same reason(underdrive pulley). Or three: It could be both things combined.
I'm gonna do what russ sugests and wait until next summer to experiment wit a few things, mabe I'll swap my original pulley and see what difference it makes. I'm almost sure is an air flow problem, because the temp of the motor starts dropping as soon as the car its going at least 30mi/h. I'll let you guys know next year what was the problem.
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