Q on the Baer bumpsteer kit
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Car: 2003 Porsche C4S
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Q on the Baer bumpsteer kit
I know a couple people on this board have them so I'll ask the questions here.
What is required to setup the bumpsteer kit properly? Doe it take a special alignment shop to setup the bumpsteer kit or do I just install it and take it to a competent alignment sshop (not pepboys, etc.)?
Do the adjusters work properly (turn adjuster one way = longer, turn adjuster other way= shorter) or did they cheap out in that department and do something stupid?
What is required to setup the bumpsteer kit properly? Doe it take a special alignment shop to setup the bumpsteer kit or do I just install it and take it to a competent alignment sshop (not pepboys, etc.)?
Do the adjusters work properly (turn adjuster one way = longer, turn adjuster other way= shorter) or did they cheap out in that department and do something stupid?
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Re: Q on the Baer bumpsteer kit
Originally posted by james_85Z28
What is required to setup the bumpsteer kit properly? Doe it take a special alignment shop to setup the bumpsteer kit or do I just install it and take it to a competent alignment sshop (not pepboys, etc.)?
What is required to setup the bumpsteer kit properly? Doe it take a special alignment shop to setup the bumpsteer kit or do I just install it and take it to a competent alignment sshop (not pepboys, etc.)?
Originally posted by james_85Z28
Do the adjusters work properly (turn adjuster one way = longer, turn adjuster other way= shorter) or did they cheap out in that department and do something stupid?
Do the adjusters work properly (turn adjuster one way = longer, turn adjuster other way= shorter) or did they cheap out in that department and do something stupid?
I also picked up some rod end seals for mine to help keep the ends clean. I also have a full set of seals for the rod ends on my rear suspension. It's inexpensive insurance.
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Originally posted by james_85Z28
where did you get the rod end seals?
where did you get the rod end seals?
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
If the car is lowered, then put all of the spacers above the rod end. Mine is still not enough to completely correct the geometry. My outer tierod ends are still angled upward slightly even with all of the adjustment spacers in there. My only saving grace is that I run such heavy front springs and a lightweight V6 so I don't get very much suspension travel, thus helping eliminate bumpsteer. The Baer tierods are much better geometry than the stock tierods though.
Note: I enclose a pic I took of them before I installed them- set it up like the one on the right if car is lowered. Need a good alignment shop? Try Accurate Alignment- they are close to Don's shop (about a 1/2 mile away on Batavia). They do race setups if needed give the specs you want, or ask them for recommendations.
Note: I enclose a pic I took of them before I installed them- set it up like the one on the right if car is lowered. Need a good alignment shop? Try Accurate Alignment- they are close to Don's shop (about a 1/2 mile away on Batavia). They do race setups if needed give the specs you want, or ask them for recommendations.
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Here- I took a shot of them on the car. Note the outside end is still higher- Ideally that should be setting about the same angle only downward. My car moves maybe 1/4 to 1/2 " travel when you TRY to bounce the fenders- I say try because it doesn't move.
I personally feel that the design is crap- If you were to reverse the mount setups (install the rodend to the centerlink side, and not the spindle side) and completely remove all shim spacers, it would have a better angle. I thought about reversing mine while I was installing them, but I didn't have hardly any problem without them And this did correct what little bumpsteer I did have.
I personally feel that the design is crap- If you were to reverse the mount setups (install the rodend to the centerlink side, and not the spindle side) and completely remove all shim spacers, it would have a better angle. I thought about reversing mine while I was installing them, but I didn't have hardly any problem without them And this did correct what little bumpsteer I did have.
Last edited by AGood2.8; 09-22-2003 at 10:57 AM.
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that's what I was looking for, Thanks.
Is there a local place that sells them or is mail/internet the be$t way?
I guess the adjusting I was concerned about was because some people were afraid that the rod end wouldn't have enough threads in the tube to spread the loads.
Is there a local place that sells them or is mail/internet the be$t way?
I guess the adjusting I was concerned about was because some people were afraid that the rod end wouldn't have enough threads in the tube to spread the loads.
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
You can actually make your own from Coleman's catalog for less- Problem is- I don't know the exact lengths and ends to buy. I need to rebuild the front end of my truck and am going to buy 1 of each linked below to check compatabily and lengths- I will match it to the Camaro also to see if I can come up with a better angle than the stock inner tierod (I would of course have to replace the "red" aluminum tierod with a longer Coleman tierod.
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=50
And
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=47
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=50
And
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=47
#9
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Car: 2003 Porsche C4S
Engine: 3.6L
Transmission: 6-speed Manual
I went ahead and ordered the Baer units. I'm rockin the GW del-a-lum bushings up front with GW 800 lb springs and my front end, actually my whole suspension, is now smoother than a lexus but it still compresses more than Mike's Red Rocket's car...maybe due to his poly bushings...I just can't figure it out. Maybe it's because of my all-heim jointed rear. The two things people say about my car is that they can't believe how fast they are going by looking at the speedo and how smooth it is at those speeds. That's coming from 5-6 different people who aren't into cars and going fast. You only get a sense of the harshness on very unimproved NY style roads.....then you expect the car to pop out the T-tops and fold in like a soft taco
I've kept the rear on the loose side to help compensate for the heavy nose. With my Ronals on (17x9.5) the front and rear start showing dismay at the same time so that seems well balanced. But I haven't addressed my PHR angling issues since I lowered it. Jerry pointed out a couple things that the geometry has a tendency to create on the current setup.
My steering box is over at Lee's being rebuilt and my car is in pieces at Don's shop. I should go ahead and get Koni shocks now (currently have KYBs), so the current mods and be done with it but I also need new carpet and the front seets to be redone...plus I need a paint job........
I've kept the rear on the loose side to help compensate for the heavy nose. With my Ronals on (17x9.5) the front and rear start showing dismay at the same time so that seems well balanced. But I haven't addressed my PHR angling issues since I lowered it. Jerry pointed out a couple things that the geometry has a tendency to create on the current setup.
My steering box is over at Lee's being rebuilt and my car is in pieces at Don's shop. I should go ahead and get Koni shocks now (currently have KYBs), so the current mods and be done with it but I also need new carpet and the front seets to be redone...plus I need a paint job........
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