91ZRocker!

So here is the deal.. been dicking with my car to try and get it running right. I cant seem to find anything really wrong. There are no vaccum leaks that i can find. everything is hooked up right. The only thing i can guess is not enough fuel pressure when i hit the gas. But i dunno. anyways I am looking at tearing out the 305 TPI and dropping in a 350 TPI. I guess what I am asking is what would be a good amount to set aside for a new motor... I am not looking to make a drag car but i do wanna build something driveable but also burn ricers off the line.. So what do you guys think. should i buy a crate motor or build one myself? Any input is appreciated...

Nate

BigWhiteGTP

You got to figure out what's going on with your motor first.

What happens, does it die or does it not shift when you think it should? Does it shift under WOT? Have you verified the fuel pressure?

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I agree. if you dont diagnose and fix these problems first, they will most likely carry over into your new motor.
As far as how much money: It all depends on your level of skill in working on your own car. If you are going to pull the old motor yourself and install the new one yourself you will save a lot of money. You also have to look at incidentals, such as new motor mounts, tranny mount, new hoses etc. Also, if you have been wanting to paint your car or your engine compartment needs repainting, now would be the simplest time to do it. For a decent, rebuilt roller longblock, plan on spending at least $1,300 to $1,600. (More if you are thinking of better heads and a more agressive cam.) My personal opinion is that a cam and heads are two of the best things you can do (Over stock) for building real horsepower.

91ZRocker!

So here is what is going on.. after i re-sealed the top end due to a bunch of leaks.. i had to adjust the timing. Well got the timing adjusted. The car ran great that night. the next morning when i went out to start the car it would bog way down almost to dieing when i crack open the throttle. when i let off the gas the car would rev up way high then go back to a choppy idle.it sucks because i have an ses light but its for the VATS system. that wouldnt have anything to do with the idle running crappy. I dunno I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere around all the seals and hoses and its not leaking anywhere that i can find. I do know i have a cracked right head going from between the 2 and 4 intake ports on the heads and i dont exactally know if there are any other cracks but i am gonna pull the heads off this weekend and get them checked... so that is where i am at right now.. i will also have to check the fuel pressure when i get it back together. But i know i need to replace the heads like asap...

91 1LE

iTrader: (1)

If you know the heads are cracked they should be replaced. There is no good way to fix cast iron and if you want to go to a 350 you will need new heads anyway. My engine ran good before it was torn apart and everything was replaced so I know my components are good if you want to swap them one at a time. The way your engine was surging and the IAC was cycling, I would still have to say it was some sort of vacuum leak. The way the emissions systems on these car work the ECM is opening and closing solenoids all the time for the charcoal canister, EGR system, and the AIR system. There could be a leak in one of these systems that is hard to find. Could also be the throttle body if the shaft fits loose. Are you planning on installing all the emissions equipment with the new engine? If not I wouldn't worry to much about the problem carrying over. Just replace the fuel pump and get your TB rebuilt.

As for a budget rebuild it depends on what you want to get out of it. 350 HP is possible with a good cam and heads, hypereutectic pistons, stock rods and crank, and minimal machining to the block. If you want to run nitrous or a blower the prices rise substantially for a reliable engine. And based on experience, whatever you set as a budget, double it and you should be in the ballpark!!

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

LOL, you arent kidding!! When the tranny died on my v-6 car, I thought "Well, i'll just stick an L-98 in there" I couldnt find one for a reasonable price ($1,200 was the best price I could find on one, In Yuma, AZ and it had 175,000 miles!!) Then I started thinking, "Hell, I'd may as well stick an LS-1 in there, if I'm going to spend that much!" The best price I could find on one of those was $2,800. So I started thinking... "If I'm going to pay that much, I'd may as well BUILD a stroker LS-1!" ....It's a slippery slope! LOL.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Oh, the engine ended up costing me a little over 12K. Slippery.....

91 1LE

iTrader: (1)

Yep, my engine started with me wanting a GM ZZ4 short block. Then I decided I could do better if I used my block and got new pistons. New pistons go better with new rods (and new ones are only a little more than rebuilt stockers!), and may as well put a new crank in as well. And now I have a fully forged stroker rotating assembly. But I did reuse the stock block (with main studs). Now I have a bullet-proof bottom end for about $2500 that is WAY better than the ZZ$ short block. And then a new slippery slope started with the heads, intake, and computer system. And the trans, rear end, and the brakes. And the wheels. Damn, I've spent a lot of money on this car!! In the end if its really what you want then its worth it. Do it once and do it right.

birdtojag

iTrader: (1)

Thought you were getting a set of heads from someone. Anyway, you can build a budget 350 without a lot of headache. All those forged parts are not completely necessary if you are not doing NOS or forced induction. I built Soocrispy's engine and its doing well (except for the issues that keep arising from sensors and stuff). We just bored it because of cylinder scoring (6 pistons had broken rings) and put in hypereutectic pistons. The rebuild kit cost about $330 and the block work cost $275. I got my engine from pick-a-part for about $80 from a truck (make sure you have a core) and had the block machine work done. Now I'm waiting for money to get the heads ported and polished with bigger valves and springs on them. Using a cam I had for many years that I never ran. Easy to find a good block. Get in touch with Jason and we will help you out and get you in the right direction.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Yep! My problem is one of those "Enough-is-never-enough" things. I am fighting this proclivity of mine as hard as I can on the IROC. A good street engine dosent have to cost a fortune....