redneckjoe

i'd try these heads on a budget, but hog them out with a die-grinder.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html

more info;
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...head-shootout/

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Too tall and too wide.

I had a 74 260 for a little bit, never got to drive it. I want a 240 with triples and a built N/A motor.

84LsxZ28

Damn, was expecting those to be the ways it wouldn't fit though.

The guy that had the AE86 put dual Webers on the 4age and it was a pita to synchronize them when I was tuning it. Really helped that engine out though once everything was working well together. If I get a 240 I'd probably just build an rb26 for it.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

If I wasn't in the business of RB series motors and swaps for Z and 240SXs I 'd say go for it. But you're looking at upwards of 10k to do a RB swap in a Z correctly.

84LsxZ28

I'd be fine with that since I'd probably start the project a few years from now anyways. I'm still working on my Camaro and haven't even driven it to get tired of it, so I have time to save up.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

If you can make parts it obviously will be significantly cheaper, but if you are relying on purchased parts it'll kill your wallet.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Now apparently I have a power steering leak. The entire steering system is brand ****ing new.

84LsxZ28

Seals on the power steering pump/resevoir maybe? I had a big one that was the top of the steering gear box on the seal, but I doubt that's what you'd have if it is brand new.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I can't even tell where its coming from, everything is dry, but there's no fluid in the system when there was a day ago.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

when you changed everything, you prob still had air in the system. start it up and look in the res. if its foamy in there you still have trapped air. slowly turn the wheel lock to lock to get it all purged. might take a time or 2 if the fluid is foamy to get all the air out

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Its not that there's air in the system its literally all leaked out. I've gotta stop at AZ today for some more fluid, I only had half a bottle at home.

Additionally the car still breaks up even with the timing set at 38* full advance, and it doesn't fully advance until about 4000 RPM. I'm probably just going to buy a new dizzy, coil, plug wires, and a carb this week. Going to see what the hell is with this valvetrain when I get home.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Took the valve cover off, Upon initial inspection nothing seems to be amiss. But after further investigation I found that cylinder 1 intake valve is more loose than the others. That's where I can hear the tapping on the valve cover when the car runs, and it misfires on that side.

Other that that the car behaved really well on the way in, ran cool had no complaints otherwise. Although I get the feeling that the valve is not closing all the way and is letting too much fuel into the cylinder. After driving like a grandma this morning when you let off on the interstate it will backfire once on the drivers side.

This is super frustrating not because its broken, but because I don't know enough to accurately diagnose what is wrong and fix it correctly. I've been talking with Will about what might be wrong but there's only so much you can explain in a text message, and I'm just not understanding it. I don't plan on driving it anymore than going to work and back right now anyway, I'd love to leave it home and fix at my leisure but I only have one working car.

willexoIX

Like I said, I'll come out Saturday and we will do the valve lash while running. I have rocker oil clips for that. We will check pretty much everything over.

Anyone in the area is welcome to come as long as it's alright with Ducky.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I don't care. I have no issue with a meet at my house. Just not a whole lot of room for parking lol. Let's do it in the early afternoon if you guys wanna come, better time for me to get some photos of the cars.

redneckjoe

if you have press-in studs, look at the very bottom of the stud where its pressed in the head. if you see shiny metal there, you've pulled a stud. but it could be a few other things too.

i'd come out and help saturday but i got a balljoint job lined up on some ladys furd explorer/exploder. probably gonna take up most of my day?

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

No worries bud.

I'd love to run a compression test, but it seems that I don't have a crank pulley bolt on my car. Just the 3 small ones on the outside of the large bolt.

redneckjoe

my cars a beatch to do a compression test. i think i can only reach 3 cylinders because of the headers. they about need to come off to test all 8.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Mine is the same way, I need to test cyl 1 and the header is in the way.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

on my last motor with the shorties, I used exhaust studs instead of bolts. It allowed me to un bolt them and slide them back enough to change plugs, and run tests.


Still,1,5,7 sucked


pull allyour plugs, prop open the throttle blades, use the starter to turn the engine over. all cylinders should be within 10# of each other


your gonna need a balancer bolt. the tension of the belt on that pulley will walk your balancer off... hopefully its just not there, and it didn't shear.


like a dumbazz, I sheared one using it to press on a balancer.that sucked to fix.... i now have the balancer install tool....

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

if you guys need tools, or a extra pair of hands, let me know. only thing im doing is listing my project bike on craigslist tomorrow

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna order a ARP balancer bolt. Me and Will do a compression test Saturday. After I get the car home tonight I'm not going any where. I've got some projects I want to work on with my servers.

You're more than welcome to come. Bring your car too! PM me and I can send you my addy.

willexoIX

Um, you dont need the harmonic balancer bolt to do a compression test.

You have to turn the car over with the starter.

Valve lash can be done either way, i have the rocker clips to do it with the car running.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

woohoo.. just put a 100 miles on it. white knuckles and butterflies. ran well. too damn loud, but it ran well.


got some issues. half way thru my test I lost half of my gauges and my wideband pegged out. Im hoping its just a bad ground.


and as I was getting home my fuel pressure kept dropping. by the time I got in the garage, the ineterior guage said 3lbs, and the one on the carb was 0


no leaks. and the pump was only warm. im hoping that is a ground issue too.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

10volts to the pump,and drops. time to play hide and seek with my wiring...glad I got it home in time. plugs are bright white.

Gfunkill

So the last of the parts for the t5 swap should be here next week or so. I'm too cheap/broke to get better shipping, but at least it's the last of the big$$ out the door. Can't wait to have the ol' beast able to at least get past 2nd gear...then I'd be game for a meet again!

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

No bueno.

Yisssss.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

taking pics of the bike, figured id post up my junk for you guys

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Nice! I need to get me a carb filler panel. I want a set of those Weld RTSs as well, but in 18s.

84LsxZ28

Those Weld RTSs look great on your car. I have been thinking of getting them for my car as well.

redneckjoe

glad to hear she's driving again! nice looking car too! what size are your drag radials?

i always hate that first test run, "did i forget something?"
20 years ago i built a 78 camaro. first time out i see some friends. of course i had to show off with a big smokey burnout. i lookin my mirror and a cop is sitting behind me!!! uh oh! i took off down some dirt roads and the power wire to the dizzy fell off. duhho! i got out and plugged it in, ran home and covered that car. super lucky, but yea, those first shake down drives always get me nervous.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

they are the 325's I have another set of rims with 295's on them for the street. I love the look of the meaty tires in the back, I hardly put the street tires on.
I can tell you there is a learning curve with the locker in the rear. either power thru curves or let off completely, don't do both.....I let off on one then hit the throttle. yikes ...pucker time.


its a completely different car since the last time I really drove it. now I goona track down some gremlins..

84LsxZ28

What did you have to do to fit 325's back there? Mini tub it?

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Doubt it. 17x11s with 315s fit.

redneckjoe

in a search for more traction, i've unloosened my front sway bar end links about an inch. it helped a bit. i was wondering if anybody has completely removed the front bar? dumb idea?

that locker sounds like a lot of fun!

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I've heard of it done for extreme drag cars, that said it would be a pain to drive on the street.

I've been looking at cams, I want something that makes its power up top, something like 3000-7000. I found this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...eCAaAvlE8P8HAQ

Also, I can get a set of fuelie heads for free, is it worth putting the money into those? Or should I just buy a better set of aluminum heads and build those?

redneckjoe

JMO, thats a super rowdy cam meant for stricly drag racing. it will be terrible on the street. you will require a loose converter, or you'll have a hard time holding the brakes at a light. you'll bleed off lots of low speed compression, so it will be a dog til way high in the RPM band.

i'd take fuelie heads for free. have them checked for cracks, etc. then you gotta consider how much $ you want to put in them, and if its worth it? might be in the best interest to sell them and put the $ towards new alum heads? gotta do the math. accesory holes? that could require new bracketry. the heads are gonna need hardened exhaust seats, valve guides, valves, springs, screw-in studs for high RPMs, port work for performance, and at the end if you can get them to flow as good as a modern head, theyre still heavy iron. durable, but heavy. just my thoughts.

redneckjoe

what pistons do you have? current head cc, or casting numbers?

willexoIX

I agree with Joe. You can get a better set of heads for less than you would drop into the fuelies. Give yourself a better starting point starting with the heads.

Joe, he does have a high stall, just haven't figured out the stall cause I think he still has the v6 tach.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

to fit the the 295's you have to lose the bump stops, and grind alittle.


the 325.s I guess you would call it a mini-mini tub. I had to cut into the wheel wells. the biggest amount I haqd to remove is right above the control arms..basicly the wheel wells are round stock, icut out the roundness and made it square. the absolute hardest part is welding sheet metal....






oh and I bought a set of offset control arms.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I'm looking for something good for a road race type car, I'd like to spin the motor up a little bit. I figure I can just sell of those fuelies then for good heads. I don't plan on keeping the car automatic for long so I'm not worried about a converter.
Whatever stock was in a 66 327.
V6 tach that was broken to begin with lol. Not planning on keeping the auto though.


Ironically I had a lot of fun this week driving the car like a grandma because of the valve. It was nice just being in traffic and just cruising.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

this is a decent cam. but you will need screw in studs and a decent set of springs


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/Chevrolet


comp cams make retrofit roller cams also.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

if you can make power at lower rpms then you don't have to spin it high. just more wear and tear on parts.


I don't know much about road racing, but it looks like you would want more of a low to mid range type of cam. bottom end to pull you out of the corners.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

I like that cam, gets me close to RPM I want. I don't mind having to build up my heads and bottom end for high RPM. I expected it when I got into this crazy idea of a high spinning SBC.

I'm sure all of you are wondering why I don't go the conventional route and build a monster 383 or something. Its because I love European sports cars, and I don't have the cash flow to really afford one so I'm making my American machine as close to one as I can, if not better.


And in addition to that, trying to figure out a build sheet is frustrating for me because I thought I understood what all the specs meant, but now that I really try to put it all together, I have no idea. And I don't completely understand what I'm looking at.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

I have the cam just under that one in my 283 in the 55. you can kind see it in that 1 pic.


it has a lopey idle, and real responsive. I wanna find a all manual s10 to throw that in. ill grab a pic

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

not much to see. don't mind the panty hose belt drive, and my 710 cap. but as you can see those heads don't have acc holes.


I built this engine in a 1 bedroom apt.


oh, I didn't make the plug wires. they came off another car. they just served the purpose..

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

Should drive the 55 over! My Dad would love that thing lol.

I don't mind no acc holes, I've been looking at Alt and P/S aftermarket serp kits to work with a electric water pump.

loneroad

iTrader: (3)

I drove this car till there was nothing left...lol if anyone is familiar with the chas, sc area. I jumped both spans of the old cooper river bridge. I lost my license in that state because of this car....


im hoping to start that build next spring. I want a T/T 427 lsx.

redneckjoe

i got a kid selling a 88? formula 350 over here. i think he wants 7-900? good tires, headers, good working 9-bolt posi. needs body work and alternator or 1-wire, sway bar bushings. runs pretty good. i beat on it and did a few donuts, lol.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

LOL
I'd give him $400 for it.


Ugh, I want this so bad. I'm telling you all now, I'll own a Ferrari before I'm 25.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-348-leather-1993-ferrari-348-tb-serie-speciale-/281585101370?forcerrptr=true&hash=item418fc7aa3a&item=281585101370&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

redneckjoe

heres the tiny cam i run, with 1.6 rockers;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet
spin her to 7,200-7,400rpm often, she never stops pulling.
its honestly a "small" cam. and im only using a dual plane EPS.
i wrote and called a few converter companys about a recommendation. they all recommended about the same, 3,000-3,500.
it seems odd to some, but if you think about it, the tuned peak torque of the EPS is 3,500, and the cam is about the same.
i've had many "bigger" cams, but it sux if it doesnt work on the street, unless its a race only car. sacraficing too much low end IMO.