Panhard support
#1
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Panhard support
I trying to get the gas tank out but can't get the 3 bolt to the frame out on driver side
#3
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Re: Panhard support
Got a impact coved it in pb baster plus I cracked a snap on 15mm 6 point socket
#4
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Re: Panhard support
Forward, backward, forward, backward... Heat might help. Soak in PB, and whack it with a hammer, swift raps on the head to jar any corrosion loose. If it comes to destructive methods, center punch, drill small hole dead center, drill progressively larger until minor diameter of the threads, try fishing out remaining threads, or tap hole for new bolts.
#5
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Re: Panhard support
Got a bigger impact got two of the three bolts and broke a socket but at least it not a 10 mm
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Re: Panhard support
Do yourself an even bigger favor and leave it alone.
Not necessary to remove that to drop the tank.
Not sure how that thing got conflated with the Panhard bar. It's a chassis brace. Keeps the LCA mounts the correct distance apart. Can be a real joy to put back in sometimes due to chassis flex. Best left alone if possible. (which it is, in this case)
Note that the thing those bolts screw into, is just a piece of sheet metal... if those threads REALLY hang up, all that will happen is, the whole sheet metal piece will twist up in a ball. Best not to tempt fate, and just leave it be. Looks like that hex is just about smoked anyway, kinda looks too far gone to be reliable about getting a tool to bite on it. If you've already soaked it w PB Blaster from above, where the threads are, and not just drenched the hex, probably best to just glop the anti-seize on those other 2, put em back, and return to taking the tank out.
Kinda like, don't get all wrapped up in how to kill the alligators, when they sent you there to drain the swamp; and even THAT is only a side diversion from the REAL project, of building a bridge over it. Concentrate on building the bridge instead of killing the alligators.
The tank usually comes out quite easily once the rear has been dropped... take the T block for the lines loose from the top of the pumpkin so you don't fornicate the rubber hose, unbolt the bottom of the shocks, and let it hang. The springs will fall out (golden oppty to replace those... Moog CC635) which also helps clear some stuff out of the way. In fact, 2 little bolts to remove the seats and 2 nuts, and the shocks fall out too; might as well renew those at the same time since you're already there.
Not necessary to remove that to drop the tank.
Not sure how that thing got conflated with the Panhard bar. It's a chassis brace. Keeps the LCA mounts the correct distance apart. Can be a real joy to put back in sometimes due to chassis flex. Best left alone if possible. (which it is, in this case)
Note that the thing those bolts screw into, is just a piece of sheet metal... if those threads REALLY hang up, all that will happen is, the whole sheet metal piece will twist up in a ball. Best not to tempt fate, and just leave it be. Looks like that hex is just about smoked anyway, kinda looks too far gone to be reliable about getting a tool to bite on it. If you've already soaked it w PB Blaster from above, where the threads are, and not just drenched the hex, probably best to just glop the anti-seize on those other 2, put em back, and return to taking the tank out.
Kinda like, don't get all wrapped up in how to kill the alligators, when they sent you there to drain the swamp; and even THAT is only a side diversion from the REAL project, of building a bridge over it. Concentrate on building the bridge instead of killing the alligators.
The tank usually comes out quite easily once the rear has been dropped... take the T block for the lines loose from the top of the pumpkin so you don't fornicate the rubber hose, unbolt the bottom of the shocks, and let it hang. The springs will fall out (golden oppty to replace those... Moog CC635) which also helps clear some stuff out of the way. In fact, 2 little bolts to remove the seats and 2 nuts, and the shocks fall out too; might as well renew those at the same time since you're already there.
#9
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Re: Panhard support
Ok sofa, how on Earth do you get the tank out without removing the upper brace? I've done a few fuel tank jobs and I just don't see how its possible. Maybe with a newer ls1 style tank where the filler neck comes off but not these things.
#11
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Re: Panhard support
Cold day in hell I let that little bolt stop me. It's really about the principle of the thing now, amirite? Who does that puny bolt think it is anyway?
Besides, look at it this way...if you let the car pull one over on you NOW, it's gonna tell all of it's friends and NEVER look at you the same again. You will forever be under it's thumb.
You've got to let it know who is the boss, Tony Danza. This is your responsibility.
Last edited by 88IROC-USA; 08-06-2018 at 02:46 AM. Reason: Tony Danza
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Re: Panhard support
I feel the same, even with the 4th gen tank you still need to pull the PHB brace, at least swing it down
#14
Re: Panhard support
Sean,
What part of Illinois are you in? I'm in Huntley. It has been a long while since I dropped a fuel tank (honestly, I was hoping to leave it as a memory since it wasn't my favorite memory) but I could always try to come help you if you live close to me.
What part of Illinois are you in? I'm in Huntley. It has been a long while since I dropped a fuel tank (honestly, I was hoping to leave it as a memory since it wasn't my favorite memory) but I could always try to come help you if you live close to me.
#15
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Thread Starter
Re: Panhard support
Hour and a half but a got it I think I just have to drag it down and out
#18
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Re: Panhard support
No I removed it because I'm swaping a 350 in it. It's a factory v6 car
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