honkeytonk_man

I bought a set of Dyno Dons handmade headers for my car but sadly after 17 years of ownership was forced to sell the car. The new uninstalled headers are for sale. This is a set of dyno Don Coated shorty headers and 3" single exit y-pipe, with drivers side O-2 sensor bung. I paid $795 ($520 for the headers, $225 for the y-pipe and $50 shipping from Dyno Don). Fabrication and delivery took approx six weeks.
Buy them today for $600 shipped anywhere in the CONUS. Cash, MO, check (must clear before shipping) or paypal gift all accepted.

BHR

do they have air tubes? can you post some pics?

honkeytonk_man

Sorry, no air tubes. Anyone interested in pics can pm their phone number and I can text images.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

guessing you're not interested in selling the y pipe separately?

BHR

pmed you phone number if there like you say they are new, 1/3/4, no air, and with DD y pipe i'll take em just need to see pics

honkeytonk_man

Pics Sent to BHR via text. Sold to BHR pending payment.

Sorry TylerSteez didn't want to break up the set.

Thanks for looking everyone.

BHR

ok payment sent via PP let me know if you received funds

honkeytonk_man

Received payment. I will try to ship these out tomorrow. Thanks

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Damn, missed this.
It would have saved me from having to get my SLPs coated.

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

That was fast! I find it funny that people complain about the cost of parts, or a certain car, but when a good deal like this comes up there's always somebody with the coin in their pocket ready to go, lol!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

For the same money you could have two sets of stainless steel long tubes.

A fool and his money is always easily parted.

-- Joe

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Possibly only a fool would want them and the headaches that go wuth them.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Thousands and thousands of sets sold...

-- Joe

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Therefore, thousands and thousands of fools out there.

From what I've read, Dyno Don copied the SLP's, but made them even better. Is this true?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If by better you mean made out of mild steel rather than stainless, sure. And yes, they are similar to SLP as I'm they don't fit every car due to "tolerances and accidents" (search for felevent threads).

For a few hundred bucks they would be fantastic for a low dollar stock street car, but for $600 I'd prefer something that is stainless, long tube, with nice tig welds.

-- Joe

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I thought they were stainless.

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

Huh, so 2 questions... you're saying dyno dons headers are overrated? And where you getting quality long tubes for a third gen with no fitment issues for $300? Not trying to be sarcastic, just asking...I can't get good stainless headers for my suburban for that price.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253425924892

littlevin91

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

Topcn... top Chinese auto parts?

zya5point0

iTrader: (4)

Seriously tho, if anyone is running those things they should start a thread telling us how they worked out. You can't touch a set of Kooks for any vehicle under a grand, so are you paying $800 for the name? Again, not trying to be sarcastic or start a big fight, just looking for experience based input before I install what i already have.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

There are threads on it. Myself, and dozens of other guys are running these.

I'm obligated to share my opinion, regardless of how butt hurt it might make people.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Um, there's a NINE PAGE thread about the Ebay stainless longtubes, and it's not even hard to find. First page of the exhaust board, about half way down.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...longtubes.html

Nothing against Dyno Don's headers, but you asked. Any set of headers is going to potentially cause headaches. SLP 1 3/4" headers had the frequent reputation for rubbing. The 1 5/8" SLP's required bending brake lines out of the way, and the vapor vent line on the passenger's frame rail was maybe 1/4" from the header tubes, and those headers had one of the best reputations around here.

Nothing illustrated in the 9 page thread appears to be that hard to work around. And for a third of the price, less waiting period, etc they're an attractive option.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My SLP's whacked stuff too. My SLP's also didn't fit my AFR 210s properly, which I assumed was warped flanges so I ended up selling them for like $75, then tried a turbo manifold, stock lt1 manifolds, and finally these OBX/Ebay/Chingchong stainless headers are realized the bolt spacing on the #8 and #1 cyls were wrong lol.

-- Joe

355_L98_GTA

I have 2 thirdgens. One is an 84 TA with Dons headers and the other is an 87 IROC with the chinese ebay headers. Guess which one just slid right together with ZERO modifications and has much cooler under hood temps. The 84. Ground clearence is perfect and I have dual exhaust all the way to the tips. The only way to get good ground clearence with the longtubes is with a custom crossmember that most guys cant make or probably many don't want to afford. I bought these headers from Don about 6 years ago. Ceramic coating is still there. I am sure with the quality of the coating this costs him a pretty penny. I had to lift the engine to get the stainless ones in, put on a mini starter and grind about a quarter sized chunk off of my drivers side lower a arm mount. I dont count bending lines out of the way with your hand as a modification.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Do you have pics of both installs?

With the EGT's my car makes under boost, the coating would probably come off in a hurry.

-- Joe

355_L98_GTA

You may be right about the coating I wasnt considering you having the turbo. I did have a problem with the #8 primary on the IROC glowing while breaking in the cam because of an exhaust rocker that was too tight. The only thing it did was turned that one tan. The other 7 are a burnt blue color. I never got dons headers hot like that. The coating has turned silver. Was almost chrome when I got them.

355_L98_GTA

Just for everybodys information also the stainless headers we are talking about also fit a lowered squarebody c10 very well and tuck up extra close to the body. I test fitted them on my 83 c10 and ended up ordering a set for it as well. I cut the collectors and made them 3" though. Dual 3" stainless with stainless gibson mwa mufflers and turndowns before the rear end for less than $500. The lt1 seems to appreciate the breathing. It shrieks when you stomp it.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Damn... I can't buy stainless tubing for that price.

Maybe I'll buy a set, cut them up and make shortys out of them.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

They make 1 3/4" shorties too, but oddly enough they are $100 more than the long tubes.

They are made of thick stainless tubing that tig welds very nice. I've modified a few sets of chinese turbo headers. Just don't forget to back purge them so they don't rot from the inside out.

You can't buy stainless that cheap because you are a small shop. These companies are selling thousand and thousands of sets of headers (for all vehicles) per week. They are negotiating shipping containers full of stainless tubing. The welds on them are so good I think the majority of them are done by robotic welding, and probably only tacking done by hand.


-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Oddly enough, that's my only 'complaint' about them. The ground clearance is a little too good, i'd actually prefer the collector to hang down a little lower rather than be between the frame and the transmission.

But for 99.9% of the street car guys out there, they want ground clearance.

The 3"->2" step in the collector is to fit 2 1/2" pipes. Most guys building high output cars just cut them off at the 3" point and use 3" slip pipes. I left it at 2 1/2". My car makes so much power I can't keep it straight as it is, I doubt it would have made much of an impact.

-- Joe

BHR

since the thread has gone way off topic and since im the "fool" that bought the item listed here i'll chime in

headers arrived today

i own many 3rd gen camaros aswell as many headers over the yrs eldlebrock, headman, hooker 2055 i also currently have 3 sets of slps and slp tri y's

i also did own the ebay longtubes

w/o rating dons yet i would say that the 2055s and slp are at the top the slps have issues with fitment particularly the driver side with the steering shaft aswell as the y pipe being 2.25

the hooker are good b/c the y pipe is 2.5 fitment is good but the headers arent 1.75 collectors need to be opened up and they also rust if not coated

i recently bought and sold the ebay long tubes they were a bitch to get on and had multiple areas where they hit but i did get them on w/o modifying to much, the y pipe was also rubbing bad on the trans cross member but eventually i did get them to work w/o having it rub

what i did notice with them is it made the car much quieter the longer primary acts more as a muffle is my guess, at mid to high rpm it was as loud or louder but at idle and low rpm it was quieter the reason i took em off and sold them was that quarter mile times where the same as with 1.75 slps and yes the long tubes were also 1.75 maybe the size was to big for a long tube

so a combination of being a pain to get on and off also makes removing the trans almost impossible w/o removing at least one longtube and y pipe, quieter idle and low speed cruise, no quarter mile gain, less ground clearance and having that fruity rainbow and brown color made me get rid of them

they are nice for the money currently at 200 bucks and if you dont have much money or other header setups i guess they will do the job and like joe stated the welds are good and i dont think youd have much issues with cracking or rusting away like with the other options available for 3rd gens

the ebay shortys from what ive seen resemble 2055s i have no experience with them though


so far with my hands on DDs headers what i noticed was that there was what appears to be bead glass stuck in tight areas maybe from the coating process, the flange area also has some issues the side that meets the head it appears that DD only grinded down a few of the primary weld flush with the flange but not all so we'll see how that seals against the head... never seen that before

will sure post back on any fitment issues once i try them on the car in the next few days

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

BHR

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's.. Interesting.

The OBX headers use 1 7/8" or larger flanges, with the tube inside. They expand the tube and weld on the inside, then grind the welds down for a smooth transition.

I watched a video from either hedman or hooker and they do the same thing.

I've seen Flowtech headers though that were made that way, the tube was welded on the flange side and then ground down on a belt sander.

-- Joe

BHR

do they make the ebay shortys w/o air though, i cant seem to find any listing for ebay shortys the last i checked where obx but with air the long tubes are plentiful though

borgx

iTrader: (4)

What if you have a manual transmission? Those eBay LTs don't fit... :-(

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If you are building a hot rod, you should be using a scatter proof bell housing (Lakewood), and a hydraulic throw out bearing anyway.

borgx

iTrader: (4)

It's built for the street, not the strip. I have SLPs on it now, but need to switch out the Y pipe so I figured why not go LT at the same time. If all LTs are a problem with WC T-5 and stock parts, then I have my answer...

2slow5.0

iTrader: (2)

I have dougs longtubes with a 5 speed. No issues with clearance. I used hawks 700r4 crosmember, modified it a bit and made my own y pipe. Got good clearance. Im not lowered though

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Clutches explode on the street too. I like my feet.

-- Joe

BHR

tried on the left side real quick after getting these to see if there would be any issues as this is where others had problems had plenty of clearance, will be at least another 2-3 weeks before i have time to completely put them on