Going from a single turbo to twins
#351
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I'd love to run my intercooler like that and feed the throttle body directly. Lose a bunch of bends, but I don't feel like cutting the radiator support apart.
-- Joe
#354
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Looking real good man, keep up the great work!
#360
#361
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
LOL. My Road Glide I have had for a couple years with only 1000 miles on it. Should've kept my Honda Sabre 1800. That's what I get when I listen to the wife when she said get a new Harley. Biggest mistake ever.. I could really do without the payment each month.
#362
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
-- Joe
#364
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
They typically sound awful.
what mufflers are those?
#366
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
How's the ground clearance on that ? I'm on the fence about how I feel about dumping the exhaust in front of the rear wheels. I think it would make life a little easier in some ways, but I wouldn't wanna run the car in the shop that way. Hrmm. That is amazingly clean though.
I have a pair of those mufflers on the shelf, left over from another project.
Actually, I have enough parts on the shelf to build at least two cars. I've been scouring craigslist but can't find anything worth building.
-- Joe
I have a pair of those mufflers on the shelf, left over from another project.
Actually, I have enough parts on the shelf to build at least two cars. I've been scouring craigslist but can't find anything worth building.
-- Joe
#370
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I don't know that much about air filters and Turbos, but in the Diesel world people get in trouble with a filter that small. Supposedly they can suck the cap and pull part of the filter into the turbo. I don't normally post against what people do on projects, or I would have mentioned that earlier
#372
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Thats interesting to hear about the filters. I know that putting restrictive filters on turbos/superchargers essentially is like putting a restrictor on boost. I dont see how a quality filter like vibrant would kill flow that much... but its all about flow. You dont seem to have room for anything bigger and adding bends before restricts flow.
I have been looking at putting a larger quality filter on my turbo LS, its a single but it runs the cheap ebay CX foam filter it came with as I literally dont have room for anything. The filter is litterally pressing against the rad support area so I would need to run a cobra elbow but dont have the room under for a large filter. So far the foam filter doesnt seem to be holding me back tho. Its been from 6psi to 10.2psi, always thought it would restrict it but seems to be doing fine surprisingly... maybe look into the cheap foam ones? This is the style https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-3-Inch-...ss!07052!US!-1
I have been looking at putting a larger quality filter on my turbo LS, its a single but it runs the cheap ebay CX foam filter it came with as I literally dont have room for anything. The filter is litterally pressing against the rad support area so I would need to run a cobra elbow but dont have the room under for a large filter. So far the foam filter doesnt seem to be holding me back tho. Its been from 6psi to 10.2psi, always thought it would restrict it but seems to be doing fine surprisingly... maybe look into the cheap foam ones? This is the style https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-3-Inch-...ss!07052!US!-1
#373
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I am running the Vibrant 10931 filters on this setup due to the space I had. I had changed hot side setups over the winter but the springs are supposed to be 14 psi springs... But with the filters on I am only seeing most of is 9 psi of boost.
ORR I have also looked into those filters but didn't want the foam to be sucked into the turbo.
ORR I have also looked into those filters but didn't want the foam to be sucked into the turbo.
#374
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I am running the Vibrant 10931 filters on this setup due to the space I had. I had changed hot side setups over the winter but the springs are supposed to be 14 psi springs... But with the filters on I am only seeing most of is 9 psi of boost.
ORR I have also looked into those filters but didn't want the foam to be sucked into the turbo.
ORR I have also looked into those filters but didn't want the foam to be sucked into the turbo.
-- Joe
#375
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
No Foam getting sucked into my turbo from the ebay HKS style foam filters. And ive had it off more times than I can count. Been up to 10.2psi and no issues.
Side note the hotside can change the backpressure or the flow into the WG and affect the pressure the valve sees. supposidly my 60mm WG has a 12psi spring in it, it opens at 12-14psi on a compressor but that doesnt take into account the backpressure in the hotside, i get 6psi from that spring.
Side note the hotside can change the backpressure or the flow into the WG and affect the pressure the valve sees. supposidly my 60mm WG has a 12psi spring in it, it opens at 12-14psi on a compressor but that doesnt take into account the backpressure in the hotside, i get 6psi from that spring.
#377
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Double check before and after with and without filters
Gates should still regulate boost to the same as the filters would just suction throttle the inlet.
The aem ones dont come shorter than 5” long but never sucked one in lol. I sucked a silicone elbow shut on 17 psi tho lol. I made passes without the filters and did not make any difference in my car. Never tried on high boost tho
I would also look at turbo guard screens. Wont catch super small particles but will keep big stuff out . Under engine bay you shouldnt have to much crap getting up into turbos
Gates should still regulate boost to the same as the filters would just suction throttle the inlet.
The aem ones dont come shorter than 5” long but never sucked one in lol. I sucked a silicone elbow shut on 17 psi tho lol. I made passes without the filters and did not make any difference in my car. Never tried on high boost tho
I would also look at turbo guard screens. Wont catch super small particles but will keep big stuff out . Under engine bay you shouldnt have to much crap getting up into turbos
#378
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Double check before and after with and without filters
Gates should still regulate boost to the same as the filters would just suction throttle the inlet.
The aem ones dont come shorter than 5” long but never sucked one in lol. I sucked a silicone elbow shut on 17 psi tho lol. I made passes without the filters and did not make any difference in my car. Never tried on high boost tho
I would also look at turbo guard screens. Wont catch super small particles but will keep big stuff out . Under engine bay you shouldnt have to much crap getting up into turbos
Gates should still regulate boost to the same as the filters would just suction throttle the inlet.
The aem ones dont come shorter than 5” long but never sucked one in lol. I sucked a silicone elbow shut on 17 psi tho lol. I made passes without the filters and did not make any difference in my car. Never tried on high boost tho
I would also look at turbo guard screens. Wont catch super small particles but will keep big stuff out . Under engine bay you shouldnt have to much crap getting up into turbos
I am hoping the weather changed up here for the weekend...prediction is rain again.
#382
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I have taken 8 psi to 18 before but it got sketchy on adjustment after 4 turns. Was lb per turn for about 4 turns and then half got like 4 psi.
On the dyno i went 12 to 17 with 1 turn. Street it was 1 lb more. It can be dangerous lol but stay within few psi over spring is usually fine. And always preset your fuel map to dump excess fuel in overboost
On the dyno i went 12 to 17 with 1 turn. Street it was 1 lb more. It can be dangerous lol but stay within few psi over spring is usually fine. And always preset your fuel map to dump excess fuel in overboost
#383
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I have taken 8 psi to 18 before but it got sketchy on adjustment after 4 turns. Was lb per turn for about 4 turns and then half got like 4 psi.
On the dyno i went 12 to 17 with 1 turn. Street it was 1 lb more. It can be dangerous lol but stay within few psi over spring is usually fine. And always preset your fuel map to dump excess fuel in overboost
On the dyno i went 12 to 17 with 1 turn. Street it was 1 lb more. It can be dangerous lol but stay within few psi over spring is usually fine. And always preset your fuel map to dump excess fuel in overboost
-- Joe
#385
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Welp, One turbo decided to stop spinning and once I took it apart I found the front compressor plate housing worn where the thrust bearing was. It looks like the casting had failed somehow, not really sure. I also found the compressor wheel had a few worn down fins too.
I decided to just buy some new 72 mm turbos with a 96 a/r and call it a day. I will be posting up the other Master Power 60 trim turbo for sale with a coated exhaust housing for cheap money. Pics to follow soon.
I decided to just buy some new 72 mm turbos with a 96 a/r and call it a day. I will be posting up the other Master Power 60 trim turbo for sale with a coated exhaust housing for cheap money. Pics to follow soon.
#386
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Update. Ended up buying 2 72mm turbos with .68 turbine housings, Single Walbro fuel pump with a fuel pump relay kit, New msd ignition coil and GM roller rockers. Had it dyno tuned finally and since last Wednesday was very hot and humid managed to squeeze out 560 rwhp. Its obvious my cam needs to go bigger since the power starts dropping off around 6100 rpm. The cam I am using has a range of 2000 to 6000 rpms. I guess a call to a few cam companies will be necessary. I am reaching for 650 rwhp. Hopefully.
#389
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Also noted the tuner said when he would try to load it more down low it would break up when he got into it higher up. So he didn't tune it for more down low. If that makes any sense to you.. Mind you the plugs are gapped at .018 using Ngk 5671a-7 plugs.
Last edited by Badass355ciz28; 09-05-2018 at 10:42 AM.
#390
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
-- Joe
#392
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Well, I have been stock piling some parts to tear back into the engine within the next month.
Custom Comp Cams turbo cam
220cc Scorpion cylinder heads all setup and ready to go along with the necessary gaskets as well to do the cam and cylinder head swap.
I just might toss on a new oil pan while I am at it. Mine seems to seep a little.
Custom Comp Cams turbo cam
220cc Scorpion cylinder heads all setup and ready to go along with the necessary gaskets as well to do the cam and cylinder head swap.
I just might toss on a new oil pan while I am at it. Mine seems to seep a little.
#393
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Make sure you get a quality oil catch can. I was pushing oil, but soon as I installed this catch can all my crank case issues and oil issues went away. Make sure to choose the -12 AN fitting, it supports 1200hp. This catch can really works!
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
#394
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Make sure you get a quality oil catch can. I was pushing oil, but soon as I installed this catch can all my crank case issues and oil issues went away. Make sure to choose the -12 AN fitting, it supports 1200hp. This catch can really works!
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
#395
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
A catch can is for an engine with ring sealing issues, aged worn with blow-by that forces oil from orifices. Catch can is a band-aid to be used while waiting to replace an engine. Basically when I see a catch can I assume the engine is on its last leg. Some people install them to perfectly healthy engines though- which is a mistake, since catchcan volume becomes part of the crankcase total volume which reduces the effectiveness of the PCV system on whole. The point of the PCV system is to draw down the crankcase pressure during both cruise and boost. The PCV system is not correctly connected in the pictures above because it is missing the pre-compressor, post-filtered atmospheric source for PCV in boost. In other words, there should be a hose that runs from pre-compressor inlet pipe to the crankcase fresh air source somewhere, in order to keep pressure in the crankcase below atmospheric during boost, which will help keep oil inside the engine, improve piston ring seal (ever so slightly), keep the oil cleaner and improves engine efficiency. It is a longevity mod often discarded in the event of actual racing events, where max power is required and engine longevity and oil seepage is not an issue (because they intend to replace or rebuild it anyways for next season).
Last edited by zz17iroc; 10-07-2018 at 10:56 PM.
#396
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
A catch can is for an engine with ring sealing issues, aged worn with blow-by that forces oil from orifices. Catch can is a band-aid to be used while waiting to replace an engine. Basically when I see a catch can I assume the engine is on its last leg. Some people install them to perfectly healthy engines though- which is a mistake, since catchcan volume becomes part of the crankcase total volume which reduces the effectiveness of the PCV system on whole. The point of the PCV system is to draw down the crankcase pressure during both cruise and boost. The PCV system is not correctly connected in the pictures above because it is missing the pre-compressor, post-filtered atmospheric source for PCV in boost. In other words, there should be a hose that runs from pre-compressor inlet pipe to the crankcase fresh air source somewhere, in order to keep pressure in the crankcase below atmospheric during boost, which will help keep oil inside the engine, improve piston ring seal (ever so slightly), keep the oil cleaner and improves engine efficiency. It is a longevity mod often discarded in the event of actual racing events, where max power is required and engine longevity and oil seepage is not an issue (because they intend to replace or rebuild it anyways for next season).
I considered a catch can (not open), simply to catch risidual oil from getting sucked up by the PCV, but I switched over to stock-type baffled valve covers so I'm hoping oil ingestion into the PCV is minimal.
The better solution would probably be a belt driven vacuum pump though.
-- Joe
#397
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Make sure you get a quality oil catch can. I was pushing oil, but soon as I installed this catch can all my crank case issues and oil issues went away. Make sure to choose the -12 AN fitting, it supports 1200hp. This catch can really works!
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can
#398
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Thank you for clearing everything up about catch cans. So I guess you enjoy oil coking in the intake and oil carbon on your intake valves, all cars consume oil even new ones, but I'm not just talking about a normal catch can because they are not all equal! Please read Mighty Mouse Solutions complete line of catch cans, he covers everything you just mentioned. Also the above mentioned PCV catch can that he recommends, it does exactly what you are saying about the PCV system. It eliminates crank case pressure at cruise as well as under boost. It also has instruction telling you to make sure to use a filtered clean air source pre compressor for boosted applications. I would not recommend anything to another board member if it does not work. Like I said before I was having crank case issues under boost only and when I installed this catch can after being highly recommended, it fixed all my crank case issues under boost. Mind you I do understand the effects of crank case pressure and how it effect overall performance by unseating the rings. And yes it can happen to freshly built engines and not just tired worn out engines. I also installed a check valve on the clean air side so the no oil blows towards the pre compressor side under boost. Works perfectly as it should!
#399
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
On another note....putting my Holley Stealth Ram up for sale with the throttle body and fuel rails only. Going with a Holley 300-260 style intake,. It suits my rpm range more as well especially with the new camshaft .have already torn into the engine and have installed the new cam and cylinder heads. I"m just waiting on some other parts to arrive to finish the job
#400
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Ive been running a moroso oil/air separator with a Mcmaster Carr check valve with my boosted SBE 5.3 for 3 years... its s must as well. Its inline on the driver side valve cover in the PCV system. Check valve is necessary otherwise you will push boost into the crank case while your in boost.
JAZ mini catch can with filter on top on my pass valve cover as well with no issues. It hasn't pushed any oil into it that Ive noticed under boost (none has drained out). But I get some oil in the separator that I dump out every month (just an ounce or two).
Alot can be said of newer engines in need of things that Kingtalon would comment about being incorrect. My stock 5.7 HEMI in my 14 and 18 RAMs have horrendous PCV systems which leads back to piston rings and blowby. The stock PCV system sucks up so much oil into the intake in a short amount of time its insane. They also in stock form run the PCV line back to the filter box which allows oil to be sucked through the entire intake tube (sensors and all), Gum up the TB and intake. I also have a Diablo oil/air separator on my 5.7 HEMI and I literally have to dump out 4+ ounces of oil from it in a months time (less than 500 miles a month). Its actually normal according to Chrysler that the engines loose 2qts of oil in a normal 5k oil change schedule. Again this is NORMAL for these engines even if we dont like it an are not used to it.
Increased ring gaps for BOOST/N20 will cause added blow by and increase the oil wanting to come out of the crank case vapors resulting in a mess if you dont contain it. Nothing wrong with catch cans/oil air separators on these motors.
JAZ mini catch can with filter on top on my pass valve cover as well with no issues. It hasn't pushed any oil into it that Ive noticed under boost (none has drained out). But I get some oil in the separator that I dump out every month (just an ounce or two).
Alot can be said of newer engines in need of things that Kingtalon would comment about being incorrect. My stock 5.7 HEMI in my 14 and 18 RAMs have horrendous PCV systems which leads back to piston rings and blowby. The stock PCV system sucks up so much oil into the intake in a short amount of time its insane. They also in stock form run the PCV line back to the filter box which allows oil to be sucked through the entire intake tube (sensors and all), Gum up the TB and intake. I also have a Diablo oil/air separator on my 5.7 HEMI and I literally have to dump out 4+ ounces of oil from it in a months time (less than 500 miles a month). Its actually normal according to Chrysler that the engines loose 2qts of oil in a normal 5k oil change schedule. Again this is NORMAL for these engines even if we dont like it an are not used to it.
Increased ring gaps for BOOST/N20 will cause added blow by and increase the oil wanting to come out of the crank case vapors resulting in a mess if you dont contain it. Nothing wrong with catch cans/oil air separators on these motors.