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I'm sure this question gets asked a lot but what do you guys recommend for a solid paint brand? Not looking to spend TOO much, but I don't want to go cheap either. I'm a novice when it comes to painting, but I'd really like to do this myself. Looking for recommendations from bare metal (or in some cases, I may leave the factory primer) to clear coat. Thanks!
PPG will have everything you need. I used it on my car when I painted it in 96. I have used it on multiple cars, but the Camaro I have had the longest. Still holding up and a great shine. It has been garage kept, but it will hold up to the elements.
I use to mix and sale PPG when I worked at a private auto parts store.
The OmniŽ line of PPG is their cheaper line, as well as Shop-LineŽ but I prefer the DeltronŽ line.
They have AquabaseŽ Plus a waterbase line for the California folks.
Good results, one gallon kit $260. I had no complaints at all on the quality or sprayability.
I used a base coat, mid-coat with pearl, striping and then three clear coats.
PPG will have everything you need. I used it on my car when I painted it in 96. I have used it on multiple cars, but the Camaro I have had the longest. Still holding up and a great shine. It has been garage kept, but it will hold up to the elements.
I am more partial to DuPont but comparing ppg and dupont is kinda like comparing Summit and Jegs or powerade and gatorade. It can get real objective on which someone likes better. Their Nason series is great for a lower cost option while their Chroma line is a great option for show cars. Their Chroma Clear is arguably one of the best clears you can buy. But it's expensive, one quart and it's activator is $120-150 depending on who is selling it to you.
The Nason line has less UV resistance and will fade over time but how much more I don't know. The Nason colors have less pigment so will require an extra coat vs chroma and the Nason clear isn't as high of a solid vs chroma so it will have a tendency to run more and require another coat.
House of Kolor has a good following if you can find a distributor and I've heard lots of positive about Eastwood paints though I heard it's relabeled Kirker-which is fine.
Appreciate all of the help guys. I've heard nothing but good things about PPG, so I think I'll give them a try. I'm considering getting the paint gun from the link below, with the 1.2mm tip only (small shop compressor). Thoughts?
Also, I've heard mixed comments by people who swear sanding to bare metal is unnecessary and people who say you should always do it. Does it depend on what shape the piece you're working with is in, or is there really an advantage when all is said and done to going to bare metal?
Also, I've heard mixed comments by people who swear sanding to bare metal is unnecessary and people who say you should always do it. Does it depend on what shape the piece you're working with is in, or is there really an advantage when all is said and done to going to bare metal?
My opinion is this: These cars are at best 25 year old sports cars, at worst 35 years old. You have no idea how many times the vehicle has been repainted or how much body filler is underneath the paint. You have no idea what paint it is or how it was prepped. The thicker the layer of paint and filler the more likely the finish is to crack or fail. If you do not want to take every panel to bare metal then you need at least sand a small portion of the front and rear bumper, a front and rear fender and a door to bare metal to see how many layers of paint you have. The picture below is of the car I am building, it had multiple layers of paint on it and I only found out because I wanted to take it to bare metal.
Applying epoxy primer as a sealer over whatever is left once the body is stripped to whatever level is left helps to assure that what is left behind won't affect what you put over it.
So would a moderate amount of sanding (not down to bare metal) with an epoxy primer layer produce a final paint job that is as durable as going to bare metal and working from there?
So would a moderate amount of sanding (not down to bare metal) with an epoxy primer layer produce a final paint job that is as durable as going to bare metal and working from there?
No.
You want to use the littlest smallest of paint possible. Even using sealer or epoxy primer will not help you. The problem is you don't know how many layers of paint there are, how good the paint is that was used and how well the surface was prepped. You want to do everything right the first time so you don't have to do it again. Body shops working insurance claims can get away with using whatever brand paint and just blending it in. Why should they care if the paint fails in a few years? They've already been paid and chances are most people will get rid of the car before the paint fails or there exists a noticeable difference. If it's a car you care about then do quality work and do it once so you can rest easy.
I am doing my first (and maybe only) paint job soon. It is a HUGE amount of work.
Fun learning new skills. Getting things down to metal is no joke though. Especially if you are doing engine bay, jams, under carriage, the works.
I am blasting my interior today... Not looking forward to it, but if you want to be sure there is no rust and that your nice new primer is being laid down on bare metal, there really is no other way.
Took her down to either bare metal or factory primer. I got lucky she had never been repainted.
Primer, sealer, three coats color, three coats clear, cut and buff. I used the Dupont Nason series. First car I've ever painted and couldn't be happier..
I have rust in there that I need to deal with. Backside of my filler panels plus some areas that are up in the door frame that need to be blasted first, then acid to get what the blaster couldn't get to. Then epoxy primer, then frame sealer for areas I can't see or spray. Best shot at getting 100% down to metal coverage.
I am sealing myself in the cabin of the car with plastic. Full face respirator and blaster hood. Not coming out till the blasting on the front half of the car is complete. It will suck, yes. Gotta do it though.
I have rust in there that I need to deal with. Backside of my filler panels plus some areas that are up in the door frame that need to be blasted first, then acid to get what the blaster couldn't get to. Then epoxy primer, then frame sealer for areas I can't see or spray. Best shot at getting 100% down to metal coverage.
I am sealing myself in the cabin of the car with plastic. Full face respirator and blaster hood. Not coming out till the blasting on the front half of the car is complete. It will suck, yes. Gotta do it though.
Working for a hospital I have access to some things you may not. When I sprayed the paints what I did was to get a TB mask with a provision for an oxygen tube and ran the tube to an oxygen tank. I figured if it's good enough to be used for isolation patients it should be good enough for painting with noxious paints. You could probably rent a medical oxygen tank from a medical supply store for cheap. You could stay in there as long as you want with oxygen flowing in a mask without worrying about the filters clogging from the dust.
Hey Tibo, I don't have access to anything like you are describing. Great tip though.
I will simply bring extra particulate filters into the car with my in a plastic bag and swap out as needed. Work will suck, but investment of just some filters is no big deal. I should be able to pound out the work in a couple hours max.
PPG will have everything you need. I used it on my car when I painted it in 96. I have used it on multiple cars, but the Camaro I have had the longest. Still holding up and a great shine. It has been garage kept, but it will hold up to the elements.
I use to mix and sale PPG when I worked at a private auto parts store.
The OmniŽ line of PPG is their cheaper line, as well as Shop-LineŽ but I prefer the DeltronŽ line.
They have AquabaseŽ Plus a waterbase line for the California folks.
11-27-2017, 06:38 PM
