stall
10-11-2017, 01:25 PM
#2
Supreme Member
Re: stall
Need more info...what engine? Does it stall when it's hot, cold, or both? Is the check engine light on?
Potential problems without any additional information:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Ignition module
Ignition coil
Distributor
Fuel pump
Catalytic converter
ECM
EGR valve
EGR valve solenoid
Vacuum leaks
TPS
IAC valve
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
Injectors
Distributor cap/rotor
Timing
Coolant temp sensor
Wiring problems
Potential problems without any additional information:
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Ignition module
Ignition coil
Distributor
Fuel pump
Catalytic converter
ECM
EGR valve
EGR valve solenoid
Vacuum leaks
TPS
IAC valve
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
Injectors
Distributor cap/rotor
Timing
Coolant temp sensor
Wiring problems
10-11-2017, 02:08 PM
#4
Supreme Member
Re: stall
TPI or TBI? I have 3 305s, a TBI in my '91 Camaro, a TPI from my '91 Trans Am that's currently on the floor of my garage, and another TPI that's on an engine stand.
Ask away re: other questions, but I'd recommend posting them in the appropriate forum. This thread needs to be in "Tech/General Engine" https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/
If you just bought the car and don't have any of its repair history and the check engine light's not on before it stalls, I'd start with the cheap tuneup stuff (cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter/air filter/pcv valve), then go from there.
Ask away re: other questions, but I'd recommend posting them in the appropriate forum. This thread needs to be in "Tech/General Engine" https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/
If you just bought the car and don't have any of its repair history and the check engine light's not on before it stalls, I'd start with the cheap tuneup stuff (cap/rotor/plugs/wires/fuel filter/air filter/pcv valve), then go from there.
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10-11-2017, 02:41 PM
#10
Supreme Member
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Join Date: Apr 2000
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Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: stall
Follow this
Most cars here that have the idle stop screw cover removed should have this done. If not all of them because people shove a torx driver in there and start turning without knowing what there doing including me.
Even if this does not fix it at least its done.
The IACV is set properly within this procedure.
Its called...
"Setting Minimum Idle Speed".
1)Jump the A to B terminal under the dash in the ALDL Terminal as seen below.
2)Turn the key on but do not start it
3)You should hear a slight ticking coming from the IACV.
4)What 45 seconds then unplug the IACV with the ignition still on.
5)Disconnect the EST wire and remove the jumper.
6)Start the car.
It may be necessary to hold the throttle open slightly to prevent the engine from stalling.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
7)Connect a tachometer. I used a digital timing gun with RPM feature.
8) Adjust the minimum idle speed using the throttle stop screw.
9) My Chilton’s says set it to 700rpm in park on an 89 TBI 5.0 auto.
10) When done shut the car off and reconnect the EST wire.
11) Plug the IACV back in.
Take it easy on the car for the first day or so.
Drive it normally on the street and highway to allow the ECM to re learn the new parameters.
The car will feel better and better as you do this.
If you use a paperclip as a jumper be sure to remove the very thin and hard to see plastic coating on it.
If you have to remove the air-cleaner assembly to get to the IACV conection be sure to cap off the open port on the front of the TBI if you remove that hose.
Most cars here that have the idle stop screw cover removed should have this done. If not all of them because people shove a torx driver in there and start turning without knowing what there doing including me.
Even if this does not fix it at least its done.
The IACV is set properly within this procedure.
Its called...
"Setting Minimum Idle Speed".
1)Jump the A to B terminal under the dash in the ALDL Terminal as seen below.
2)Turn the key on but do not start it
3)You should hear a slight ticking coming from the IACV.
4)What 45 seconds then unplug the IACV with the ignition still on.
5)Disconnect the EST wire and remove the jumper.
6)Start the car.
It may be necessary to hold the throttle open slightly to prevent the engine from stalling.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
7)Connect a tachometer. I used a digital timing gun with RPM feature.
8) Adjust the minimum idle speed using the throttle stop screw.
9) My Chilton’s says set it to 700rpm in park on an 89 TBI 5.0 auto.
10) When done shut the car off and reconnect the EST wire.
11) Plug the IACV back in.
Take it easy on the car for the first day or so.
Drive it normally on the street and highway to allow the ECM to re learn the new parameters.
The car will feel better and better as you do this.
If you use a paperclip as a jumper be sure to remove the very thin and hard to see plastic coating on it.
If you have to remove the air-cleaner assembly to get to the IACV conection be sure to cap off the open port on the front of the TBI if you remove that hose.
10-11-2017, 02:45 PM
#12
Supreme Member
Re: stall
What's wrong with the seatbelts? Do they not come out at all, or do they come out and not buckle?
What part of the seats doesn't lock? Forwards/backwards of the whole seat on the track, or is it the seatbacks that won't stay in place? Either way, you should be able to just swap the tracks or tilt mechanisms out with a used set I would think.
What part of the seats doesn't lock? Forwards/backwards of the whole seat on the track, or is it the seatbacks that won't stay in place? Either way, you should be able to just swap the tracks or tilt mechanisms out with a used set I would think.