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I think my sending unit is bad. The gas gauge has been over FULL for the past 70 miles. The last tankful I also noticed that the gauge was getting sluggish.
Looks like dropping the tank will be a winter project.
I think my sending unit is bad. The gas gauge has been over FULL for the past 70 miles. The last tankful I also noticed that the gauge was getting sluggish.
Looks like dropping the tank will be a winter project.
I have the same issue with the tta. What sending unit are you going to use to replace it? The Spectra unit? I don't really like the brand.
I have the same issue with the tta. What sending unit are you going to use to replace it? The Spectra unit? I don't really like the brand.
I haven't really researched yet. I put some MMO in the tank and the needle started moving. Not accurately, but at least moving from full to 3/4. Techron is supposed to be good for cleaning sulfer from the sending unit. I'm going to try that as well.
I got mine to move with techron, but it is never accurate. It reads half when the tank is empty. I found out the hard way. I think it is inevitable that the sending unit needs to be changed.
I got mine to move with techron, but it is never accurate. It reads half when the tank is empty. I found out the hard way. I think it is inevitable that the sending unit needs to be changed.
I agree.
I guess GM sending units are susceptible to fouling from high sulfer in fuel. A lot of good results on the Corvette forums from Techron. I happened to have a bottle of Techron injector cleaner in the garage so I threw it in last night, but you're supposed to use the stronger Techron concentrate. According to some of the Corvette posts, some have gotten literally instant results and other have required 2 or 3 tankfuls.
Just put 20 ounces of Techron concentrate in and topped it off with 8.1 gallons of Amoco premium. I'll drive it for a couple of days and see what happens.
Me and my crew last Friday night. Last cruise night of the season.
My yellow '85, next to my friend's 33K mile, '86 Mustang GT, 5 speed, t-top, next to my other friend's original paint, low mile L-78, 4 speed Nova, next to my other friend's, RA II, 4 speed convertible, '68 GTO, (his father bought it new), next to my other friend's 16,000 mile, all original '67, 427 Impala.
They're a great group of guys! Who do you think is going to help me drop the tank!?
Each one of those cars has a great story to it.
That white GTO, for example. All five of us spent all winter doing a substantial freshening on it, almost a minor restoration. The car was bought by the owner's dad off the showroom floor. He kept telling everyone it had an "experimental motor" but no one knew what that meant. After his dad passed away, he took ownership of the GTO and pretty much parked it. BTW, it has about 38K miles.
One day about a year or so ago, my friend with the blue Impala was checking it out and noticed it took more than four rotations of the wheels to rotate the DS, (it has 4.33 gears). He suggested that he have the car PHS'd. It turned out to be a one out of 199 RAII GTO's ever produced during a 2 month period in 1968. Maybe 20-ish are left in any condition on the planet. Anyone into these cars knows how much it's worth. Let's call it a $$$buttload$$$.
Man, this car is becoming a problem child. Now it looks like the water pump is leaking. Oh well, on the bright side, I've meaning to change a couple belts, anyway.
Mine would get stuck above full because when starting the car, the gauges would all peg, then settle to their proper spot. The Fuel gauge required me tapping the IC to get it to be unstuck.
I tested my gauge by using an old fashioned voltmeter that had a needle. My needle would either stick, or dance all over. With the voltmeter, it read a consistent voltage while the gauge was dancing, so I replaced the gauge. I've been good since.
You could easily test the gauge with the one from the other car!!
For my dumpster divin' project Bird, I never drove the car, so no clue if the gas gauge worked. While I had the tank out, I hooked up the voltmeter and moved the sender float to see if the readings changed - nada. Moved the float back and forth a few times, with nothing more than an occasional glitch on the meter. Sprayed WD-40 in the whatever, the ghetto potentiometer driven by the float assembly, and ran the float back and forth a few more times. Started reading normal, and consistent. Now I'm still a ways from finding out if it'll keep working, but I found it interesting that so little got it working. I was all set to open the thing up and try cleaning it more directly. FWIW.
I'm about a year late with this, but what's the best method for washing seat covers in the washer? I don't know how to do laundry, lol. And I'm assuming it's best to let them air dry?
Also, have any more pictures of your friends 427 Impala?
I'm about a year late with this, but what's the best method for washing seat covers in the washer? I don't know how to do laundry, lol. And I'm assuming it's best to let them air dry?
Also, have any more pictures of your friends 427 Impala?
Welp, I'm not a laundry expert, but this is how I did it. Put the covers in the washing machine, add soap and press START.
Yes, I let them air dry.
I'll see what pics I have on my phone, anything you'd want to see in particular?
These were from a couple years ago when he first got it. It was parked since 1972. The original owner was a GM tech and stored and maintained it impeccably. We still spent the winter going through the whole car before driving it. The car is magnificent, probably the best original '67 Impala in the country. When parked next to $200,000 restorations at MACACN, it makes those cars look like artificial cartoon cars. Original is original.
Wow, such a time capsule! I see a couple non-stock items like the wider rims (which is what Chevy should have ran in the first place) but one thing has me confused. Dual underhood lamps? One of those was added on, correct?
Wow, such a time capsule! I see a couple non-stock items like the wider rims (which is what Chevy should have ran in the first place) but one thing has me confused. Dual underhood lamps? One of those was added on, correct?
Good eye!
The original owner was a mechanic at a Chevy dealer and did his own customizations using GM parts. The trunk has dual lights as well. There are a few other custom touches as well, like Caprice tail lights and export windshield wipers which sweep towards the center.
As we were bringing it back to life and discovered these "back in the day" touches, we decided they were an important part of the car's history and left them as is.
I've had an oil leak since I've owned this car. I've always felt that it was leaking from high up in the engine. I asked my friend to bring his flexible inspection camera when we did the water pump and now I suspect the oil sending unit area behind the distributor on the driver's side.
I've had an oil leak since I've owned this car. I've always felt that it was leaking from high up in the engine. I asked my friend to bring his flexible inspection camera when we did the water pump and now I suspect the oil sending unit area behind the distributor on the driver's side.
Any thoughts?
The oil sender would be a very likely culprit. Especially if it seems like sometimes it leaks more than another. When they get worse, you can have a very bad oil leak that is actually intermittent.
The oil sender would be a very likely culprit. Especially if it seems like sometimes it leaks more than another. When they get worse, you can have a very bad oil leak that is actually intermittent.
And I did not notice the Impala's wipers!
Any tips on replacing it? I'd imagine removing the distributor would give more work space.
Any tips on replacing it? I'd imagine removing the distributor would give more work space.
Don't pull the distributor, I just did mine, it's a bit of a pain but can be done without removing anything. Did mine from driver side. The only thing that made it hard was threading the new one in amoungst the wiring harness.
Don't pull the distributor, I just did mine, it's a bit of a pain but can be done without removing anything. Did mine from driver side. The only thing that made it hard was threading the new one in amoungst the wiring harness.
The original owner was a mechanic at a Chevy dealer and did his own customizations using GM parts. The trunk has dual lights as well. There are a few other custom touches as well, like Caprice tail lights and export windshield wipers which sweep towards the center.
As we were bringing it back to life and discovered these "back in the day" touches, we decided they were an important part of the car's history and left them as is.
Awesome car! Always liked the mid 60s big Chevys. Did anyone notice he also put a Caprice rear bumper on it so it would have reverse lamps? Impalas had them in the taillights.
Awesome car! Always liked the mid 60s big Chevys. Did anyone notice he also put a Caprice rear bumper on it so it would have reverse lamps? Impalas had them in the taillights.
Don't pull the distributor, I just did mine, it's a bit of a pain but can be done without removing anything. Did mine from driver side. The only thing that made it hard was threading the new one in amoungst the wiring harness.
Just to verify, did you replace the oil pressure switch or oil pressure sender? I believe they are next to each other back there.
I had the switch (2 prong plastic unit) let go on me this summer when I was (luckily) 2 streets from home...when I just happened to glance down and see the oil pressure gauge at zero.
Get it home and the chassis is covered in oil. A few ounces remained in the pan.
So...cheap insurance to do both. My switch had been leaking for some time I think. I have virtually no oil leak from the back of the pan anymore. I assumed it was a rear main seal, but I think that switch had a slow leak.
I had the switch (2 prong plastic unit) let go on me this summer when I was (luckily) 2 streets from home...when I just happened to glance down and see the oil pressure gauge at zero.
Get it home and the chassis is covered in oil. A few ounces remained in the pan.
So...cheap insurance to do both. My switch had been leaking for some time I think. I have virtually no oil leak from the back of the pan anymore. I assumed it was a rear main seal, but I think that switch had a slow leak.
Just getting the cap and wires out of the way is usually enough. I'm trying to remember the exact setup right now, is it the switch on top and the sender sticking off to the side of the tee? I'm far away from my car to look for myself.
The gauge sending unit you can get with an open ended wrench, but the switch needs an Oil Pressure Switch socket. You cannot fit a normal socket on it.
I may have to borrow my friend's camera and get one more look back there. With a flashlight it looks dry back there. But I see oil on the intake between the front and rear pair of runners on the driver's side.
I may have to borrow my friend's camera and get one more look back there. With a flashlight it looks dry back there. But I see oil on the intake between the front and rear pair of runners on the driver's side.
The intake bolts thread into the open lifter valley, it's possible for oil to wick up the bolts and pool up a bit on the intake manifold.
09-11-2017, 09:26 AM
