Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
#1
Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
Hi guys. Hope that you can help me out.
First of all im from sweden so im sorry if i cant write or know all the names.
A month ago i bought -89 Firebird 2.5 v6...
everything works but the security light is on all the time,not flashing or anything just a big yellow light in my eyes.
I thought it could be something with the key or the connectors.
There was a little "interuption" when i measured the resistans (ohm) on the kabels under the steeringwheel when i turned the key so i got resistors and souldered in.
Still light.
Tool the resistors off again and i can still start the car:/ Whaat?
looked around and there isnt anything weird with the rest of the cabels like tejp or anything.
Where do i start? And where is the vatsmodule located?
Ive googled everything.
Hope i dont get stranded somewhere
Thanks guys for atleast Reading my post.
First of all im from sweden so im sorry if i cant write or know all the names.
A month ago i bought -89 Firebird 2.5 v6...
everything works but the security light is on all the time,not flashing or anything just a big yellow light in my eyes.
I thought it could be something with the key or the connectors.
There was a little "interuption" when i measured the resistans (ohm) on the kabels under the steeringwheel when i turned the key so i got resistors and souldered in.
Still light.
Tool the resistors off again and i can still start the car:/ Whaat?
looked around and there isnt anything weird with the rest of the cabels like tejp or anything.
Where do i start? And where is the vatsmodule located?
Ive googled everything.
Hope i dont get stranded somewhere
Thanks guys for atleast Reading my post.
#3
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
I've already looked but there isnt any cabels cut or spliced.
I found on google that If the vats was program off with a computer then the light could stay on like mine is?
tried to make the vats relearn the key if that was the problem but nothing.
if the light stays on it should be a problem that come up after the car was started and vats has gone in safe mode and then i can start without key resistance. But it doesnt go away after the batteri has been disconnected like it should.
Im lost.
Last edited by Robbs; 09-07-2017 at 12:32 AM.
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
I turned the VATS off in my program and my light stays off. Not sure what else would cause light to stay on. Mine only came on when it lost the signal for the chip in the key. It's more of a pain than worth. That's why I bypassed and ran a hidden kill switch. If it's just the light being on that bothers you, just pull the bulb
#5
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
I turned the VATS off in my program and my light stays off. Not sure what else would cause light to stay on. Mine only came on when it lost the signal for the chip in the key. It's more of a pain than worth. That's why I bypassed and ran a hidden kill switch. If it's just the light being on that bothers you, just pull the bulb
Yeah i could pull the bulb but i Whant to know whats wrong so i dont get stranded somewhere.
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
I'm with you. If it's bypassed I would want to know where and why the light is coming on still. Can you get the computer down far enough to read the letters from the prom chip. Maybe it has an older chip that doesn't have VATS
#7
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
I turned the VATS off in my program and my light stays off. Not sure what else would cause light to stay on. Mine only came on when it lost the signal for the chip in the key. It's more of a pain than worth. That's why I bypassed and ran a hidden kill switch. If it's just the light being on that bothers you, just pull the bulb
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#8
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
But , But , Sweden is such an awesome country how could anyone ever get frustrated there ?
And now to your car ; If your car starts and runs with the security light on solid that means for certain that two different things have been done to get around the fact that for whatever reason the VATS module isn't properly doing it's thing . First thing is that someone has jumped out the VATS starter kill relay so that the car will crank the starter when the key tells it to (to get around the missing VATS signal) and the second thing is that they got a chip for the ECM programmed with VATS deleted so that the injectors will spray fuel when the ECM is seeing it's distributor reference pulses , or maybe used an earlier (1987) chip since VATS started in 1989 (again to get around the missing VATS signal) .
Whatever you do , if you ever replace your ECM , make darned sure you transfer the chip from the old ECM to the new , and yes I'd take the bulb out of the panel as well .
PS , just so we're all on the same page , your car has a 2.8 V6 and not a 2.5 V6 as your first post states . There was a 2.5 L engine , but it was a 4 cylinder commonly called "the Iron Duke" by the folks who had love/hate relationships with it . Oh , and , our VATS can't "learn" anything , there were key resistances specific to each particular VATS module and if someone's VATS module was being replaced the new module had to correspond to the car's existing key resistance ....
And now to your car ; If your car starts and runs with the security light on solid that means for certain that two different things have been done to get around the fact that for whatever reason the VATS module isn't properly doing it's thing . First thing is that someone has jumped out the VATS starter kill relay so that the car will crank the starter when the key tells it to (to get around the missing VATS signal) and the second thing is that they got a chip for the ECM programmed with VATS deleted so that the injectors will spray fuel when the ECM is seeing it's distributor reference pulses , or maybe used an earlier (1987) chip since VATS started in 1989 (again to get around the missing VATS signal) .
Whatever you do , if you ever replace your ECM , make darned sure you transfer the chip from the old ECM to the new , and yes I'd take the bulb out of the panel as well .
PS , just so we're all on the same page , your car has a 2.8 V6 and not a 2.5 V6 as your first post states . There was a 2.5 L engine , but it was a 4 cylinder commonly called "the Iron Duke" by the folks who had love/hate relationships with it . Oh , and , our VATS can't "learn" anything , there were key resistances specific to each particular VATS module and if someone's VATS module was being replaced the new module had to correspond to the car's existing key resistance ....
Last edited by OrangeBird; 09-09-2017 at 10:10 PM.
#9
Re: Frustrated from sweden. Security light on
Thx man for the replay.
Yeah i notice that it was 2.8 on the intake, the Guy sold it and told me it was 2.5.
im use to old cars like my -69.
I took down the EMC today and didnt find anything weird.
Googled the Numbers on the Box and the chip and it match the -89
where is it most likely that the starter relay has been jumped?
didnt see any cables cut.
So probably the EMC is fixed?
But , But , Sweden is such an awesome country how could anyone ever get frustrated there ?
And now to your car ; If your car starts and runs with the security light on solid that means for certain that two different things have been done to get around the fact that for whatever reason the VATS module isn't properly doing it's thing . First thing is that someone has jumped out the VATS starter kill relay so that the car will crank the starter when the key tells it to (to get around the missing VATS signal) and the second thing is that they got a chip for the ECM programmed with VATS deleted so that the injectors will spray fuel when the ECM is seeing it's distributor reference pulses , or maybe used an earlier (1987) chip since VATS started in 1989 (again to get around the missing VATS signal) .
Whatever you do , if you ever replace your ECM , make darned sure you transfer the chip from the old ECM to the new , and yes I'd take the bulb out of the panel as well .
PS , just so we're all on the same page , your car has a 2.8 V6 and not a 2.5 V6 as your first post states . There was a 2.5 L engine , but it was a 4 cylinder commonly called "the Iron Duke" by the folks who had love/hate relationships with it . Oh , and , our VATS can't "learn" anything , there were key resistances specific to each particular VATS module and if someone's VATS module was being replaced the new module had to correspond to the car's existing key resistance ....
And now to your car ; If your car starts and runs with the security light on solid that means for certain that two different things have been done to get around the fact that for whatever reason the VATS module isn't properly doing it's thing . First thing is that someone has jumped out the VATS starter kill relay so that the car will crank the starter when the key tells it to (to get around the missing VATS signal) and the second thing is that they got a chip for the ECM programmed with VATS deleted so that the injectors will spray fuel when the ECM is seeing it's distributor reference pulses , or maybe used an earlier (1987) chip since VATS started in 1989 (again to get around the missing VATS signal) .
Whatever you do , if you ever replace your ECM , make darned sure you transfer the chip from the old ECM to the new , and yes I'd take the bulb out of the panel as well .
PS , just so we're all on the same page , your car has a 2.8 V6 and not a 2.5 V6 as your first post states . There was a 2.5 L engine , but it was a 4 cylinder commonly called "the Iron Duke" by the folks who had love/hate relationships with it . Oh , and , our VATS can't "learn" anything , there were key resistances specific to each particular VATS module and if someone's VATS module was being replaced the new module had to correspond to the car's existing key resistance ....