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So I have these Doug's headers and while the metal seems to be high quality, the fitment is absolute crap. Spark plug #7 rubs against the headers with boot installed. Would it be a bad idea to run just #7 without a boot?
I'm running NGK V-Power spark plugs and I have enough clearance to not touch, even with them being wrapped on the Doug's longtubes. Maybe buy one and see how that goes for you?
I'm running NGK V-Power spark plugs and I have enough clearance to not touch, even with them being wrapped on the Doug's longtubes. Maybe buy one and see how that goes for you?
Those are actually the same plugs I am running, and they are way too long for my application.
Upon doing some research I discovered that shorty plugs exist. I ordered a set of the shortest shorty plugs from Summit so we'll see tomorrow if that works. Also I ordered some plug wraps for further insulation, hoping that doesn't just amplify the clearance issue I am having.
Also, prior to reading the comment about arcing, I tried out running the plug without a boot and sure enough it was just arcing off the wrapped header bad enough to not even fire the cylinder... hopefully it didn't hurt my brand new engine
I'm sorry to hear that, man. What heads are you running? I'm running aftermarket heads, but AFAIK the plug placement should be the same as 906 Vortec heads.
I'm sorry to hear that, man. What heads are you running? I'm running aftermarket heads, but AFAIK the plug placement should be the same as 906 Vortec heads.
383 Stroker from a LT block, EDL-2022 (Summit PN#) heads. I believe they are called "Edelbrock E-Street heads. The headers are the Doug's PN# D3321-R.
I had a similar situation with my RHS heads and SLP headers. #8 cylinder. Burned through the first boot which actually touched the header. Put on another boot, but trimmed it down so it wouldn't physically touch. The boot stayed together, but still burned, and started arcing. Now I'm running a DEI wire protector, and no arcing. The wire sleave/protector is DEFINITELY touching the header, but between that and a new, trimmed boot, I have no arcing.
...I'm also running Remflex header gaskets, which are about a 16th of an inch thicker once compressed. That's a lot of real estate in these situations.
I'm also running Doug's long tube headers, with aftermarket aluminum straight plug heads and what I did was run the thick aluminum header gaskets and slightly dented the #7's primary tube right where the boot sits; all this gave me a good .250" of space between the boot and header, running Champion 792 racing spark plugs.
I'm also running Doug's long tube headers, with aftermarket aluminum straight plug heads and what I did was run the thick aluminum header gaskets and slightly dented the #7's primary tube right where the boot sits; all this gave me a good .250" of space between the boot and header, running Champion 792 racing spark plugs.
I've got shorty plugs coming in the mail tomorrow, but normal header gaskets, and I don't feel comfortable denting my expensive headers.
I've also got PN# HMI-8030 spark plug boot insulators. Have yet to use them but from the feel of them they are extremely sturdy and seem like they should last forever.
You could always buy a header flange to use as a spacer and use gaskets on both sides.
this seems like a very viable option.
running shorty Accel spark plugs has given me enough clearance to put the plug boot on as well as the thick plug boot protector from Summit. The protector touches the header quite firmly but I think they are quality enough to not disintegrate from heat. Also my headers are wrapped so I'm sure they'll be fine. Thanks for the help TGO!
08-07-2017, 06:50 PM
