BrianI

Will the charcoal canister keep the gas smell away if the purge valve and computer isn't hooked up to it? How would the pressure be relieved?

Dodgeman79

Wandering the same thing. Subscribed

Lonnie P

It will if you just run a vent hose from the canister up to the filler neck area.

I've never had any smell issues so far.

BrianI

Lonnie,
How did you attach to the filler neck?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't smell fuel with my car parked in the garage. I think the native state of the valve is open, so essentially the charcoal canister becomes a carbon filter and that cleans up the smell. There is a separate over pressure valve that will pop open if the tank over pressurizes for some reason.

You'll have a fuel in the exhaust smell if you don't have a catalytic converter, especially cams with larger overlap.

BrianI

Good deal. I had already ordered a hotwire harness and 255 pump for a 3rd gen tank and came across a 4th gen LS1 tank and bought it. Guess I'll be buying another harness and pump.

I'll need to modify the sender. I plan on researching that this weekend

Thand for the info

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Essentially there are two options,

(1) Swap out the sender for a different style. Can't remember exactly which one, '98 Grand Prix? There are threads about that.

(2) Change the resistors at the fuel gauge. Here is an example with my Firebird fuel gauge, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5968686

Just choose a method and go.

Lonnie P

With a wire tie... nothing elaborate required. The idea is to keep all open vent ports above the fuel level.

BrianI

Stainless braided line with heatshrink so they dont rub anything. Was planning on tapping into factory 3rd gen feed line

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Typically the fuel return is after the fuel filter, that way the regulator doesn't get loaded with junk.

BrianI

Think so? I can see that happening.
I may just try to find some factory lines with the return after the filter. I've never ran aluminum lines but I may look into that as well

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Do you have the 4th gen plastic and hard lines that are for the tank? You don't actually need anything else if you got those with the tank.

BrianI

I do have the lines but the return was cut and the feed was kinked and I wouldn't want to use it. I have everything to do aluminum lines so I hope to do that tomorrow

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Do not use aluminum, it fatigues far too easy.

BrianI

I have a question about the Racetronix hotwire kit. I removed the evap wires from my 4th gen fuel sender harness. Can't I just run the 4th gen purple wires for the fuel sender into the hotwire loom then to the 3rd gen bulkhead connection? Then run the gray wire for the racetronix relay to the same bulkhead and eliminate the jumper harness?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

That's right. Connect the GRY wire to whatever is commanding the fuel pump on/off. And the two PPL wires are fuel level sender.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5825643

BrianI

Good deal. I have a Speartech harness that's a standalone and it has its own fuel pump relay. So I guess my car has 3 at the moment. Lol

I plan on removing the relay from the speartech harness and the one under the hood and letting the R9 pinout control the racetronix relay. Is this correct?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yes, you can do that. I dumped the Racetronix relay because putting it under the car is a terrible location from an environment perspective. By the time I got done "modifying" the Racetronix harness I basically just used the wire. I put a relay under hood where I have other relays for things like AC and fans.

I don't think I ever documented what I did in the end. All the ideas in my thread were iterations and not what I actually did.