buy a set of swingouts for the door bars , they are legal to 9.50 i belive

 

Yeah that's the plan. Competition eng. Sells them for like 45 bucks a piece. Well worth the money.

Looking at also getting some sfi 45.x padding for the pain hoop just in case. Last thing I want is to be in a accident on the highway and get smacked in the head with the hoop like a baseball bat. Lol

 

Drivers side bar done. I have 2 swing outs on the way so I will toss them on when they get here. I made it so the door can't shut without doing anything to the door handles. Also it is mounted right between my elbow and shoulder. And just sitting in it feels more safe and actually comfortable. With the exception of having to crawl over the bar but that will be fixed when I get my swing out. Should I leave the carpet so its easy to remove so a tech could look at it if they wanted to? I don't actually have to get certified for how fast I am going but I also never had a roll cage before and am not sure if they will want to see the plates.

 

do yourself a favor and put the cross bar in the hoop, get a good seat that allows for a 5 pt harness , and install it .
if u get the cage certified it usually makes going threw tech faster, at my old track if they saw a certified cage they usually didnt go over the entire car , not sure how ur track is though

do not throw out ur stock seatbelt , most places wont pass a car with only a 5 pt harness , and alot of cops will write u a seatbelt ticket for a 5pt harness instead of the factory seatbelt

 

Yeah I have 2 new cam lock 5pt harnesses and the x bar to install still.
But I jeed to weld in the gussets still as well.

I'll keep the stockers though just in case.

 

if the tube is fully welded around the tube u do not need the gussets to be legal

 

Sorry i said the wrong thing. I meant the mounts for the 5 pt harness not those triangle gussets for a half welded bar. My mistake.

 

Yea more parts. 2 swing outs. A camlock 5pt harness. And some sfi 45.1 padding.

 

I really want to have a electric water pump. So that I can cool my car down. Anyone have any idea how I can make the plastic pulley bolt up to my waterpump. I thought of drilling holes and tapping things but I figured I would ask and see some ideas first. The holes dont line up to what i have. i thought of making a plate that would go between the pulley and pump so i could bolt to that but not sure yet what to do. My bolt circle on the pump is smaller then the pulley

Also I broke down and finally bought one of these nitrous switches it was well worth the $50 I spent

 

Put the pulley on line your second picture, with the pulley "backwards", then mount the motor to line up.

Are you going to drive it on the street? If you are I'd recommend a different electric pump.

 

I would like to drive it at times on the street still. What electric pump would you reccomend?

I counlent find anything for pumps for our 660s. I'd like to mount it like the 2nd pic but the holes don't line up at all so I'd have to do something about that

 

Yeah, re-drill the holes to make the pulley work...

You won't find anything else that will directly work with the 660 for an electric pump, anything you find will need to be adapted.

If it were me and wanted that engine off cool down ability, but still a street vehicle, I think I'd add an auxiliary circulating pump and retain the belt driven pump for primary cooling duties.

 

if thats the pump kit im thinking it is , the electric motor is only meant to be used at the track it wont hold up to extended run time , ur suspposed to swap the pulleys back and forth

u could buy one of those mezier or other pumps that have the bolt on legs remove the stock water pump and weld up a blank cover that that pump could bolt to .

theres a lil more to it then that but it would work, u would need some .250 aluminum plate , and bits of tubing depending on what size the passage going into the block is and , a couple scraps of aluminum to weld to the inlet on the timing cover

if u cant do it and can send me a spare cover i can build it for ya

 

one of theese style pumps



so u can remove the stock legs and weld up ur own to bolt to the modified timing cover

 

Thats a good idea dave and six as well. I wounder it would be easier though to run a remote pump though like six said just because then it would be easier and less fabrication. Not that i cant do it, but simpler the better. Ill have to go outside and look at the timing cover and see what all it would take to mount a electric pump assembly on there.... either way i need to do something because cooling that car off between rounds when its 90 degrees out is imparitive for consistent passes.


when you look at it though its seems easy but making a plate could be difficult. i would think that a 4 stud pattern on a plate would be the best to mount it. then just normal holes to bolt the plate adapter to the timing cover?



Or i could put a pig plate to block it all of. drill 2 big holes and weld on a barbed fitting or big 12an fittings or something run it over to a remote pump and back sorta like this. But with just 2 lines. one to the pump from the old suction and then the other back into the old pump discharge from the new pump discharge.

 

Basically i would build a plate such as this. plasma cutter here i come..lol

BTW i have a pretty nice size double pass alum rad. 28x19X3 inch radiator and a Be Cool Qualifier Fans (16 inch@2460cfm) in front of it. And ideas on how many GPM a stock water pump is?

 

thats basically what u need to build but for most effectiveness u should weld a divider plate in the housing to seperate the left and right side water pasages . but it will work without doing that .


i suggest not plasma cutting out the aluminum plate , it may warp and need to be milled flat after that. i would use a bandsaw to cut out the plate , u couldmake the water pump bolt directly to the plate

need to dbl check the width of the water pasage holes vs a sbc or ford etc to make sure the pump outlets are narrow enough to fit between the water passages


option number 2 is u could use the sbc pump as a remote pump as well , it does not have to be mounted direclty to the plate on the timing cover

 

I thought of the diverted as well. Definitly would need that in there. Why couldn't I just use steelse? Easier for me to cut and weld..

Br after seeing the prices for 55gph pumps I may not go that route. Damm 400-500 bucks! Would a 20gph work? They are much cheeper.

 

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...let-Camaro.pdf


page 50:


15.5GPM when the pump itself is spinning 1000RPM. that's actually more flow than the 5.0 and 5.7 offered in the same year.

 

Very good info. I'll be honest I've never seen that book before.

 

that pump i posted above s 89$ shipped , ive heard of ppl using them with no issues , so u could always give that pump a shot and if it works well replace it with a mezier or something down the road

 

Look what Mrs fasteddi got me for a early x mas present. Finally thst cowl I've wanted for awhile. 4inch bolt on.

I could never see myself spending 300 400 bucks on a hood but I'm glad she did because it looks awsome and should help let some of the heat outta that engine bay.

Now I just need a paint job one of these days.

 

looks good gota be the amd steel bolt on , same one i have on my car

get it painted asap , the coating on that hood will not last , dont paint over it either , 80-120 grit ona palm sander with some laqour thiner will take it right off
if u wanna do it cheap go down to ur local napa and pick up 1 qt primer ,1qt black base and 1 qt of clear (all duplicolor)
the duplicolor stuff is ready to spray out of the can , just put it in the gun and spray it , that will help the hood hold up until u are ready to have the whole car done


the paint and clear is 25$ per qt , not sure what the primer costs
u may also be able tojust pick up a qt of the clear and spray it right on the hood as is which should also protect it, but with my experiance on that hood i wouldnt just clear over the coating on it

 

yea me and a friend plan to set up a booth and spray it come this spring. He got himself a 6 inch lift off fiberglass one for his foxbody. Yea its a amd. I think the hoods nice. Fits perfect and looks nice. I dont mind the extra 50lbs over the glass to be honest considering my car weights under 3k as of last fall. The cage will make it a bit heavier but i like steel ones and for 300 buck you cant go wrong exspecially when summit is 2 hrs away to save on shipping.

im having issues finding the correct paint though. 23U i belive is the code. i know the maui blues changed from years to years. and ideas on the correct code as the door sticker is a bit faded......

I dont plan to have the car done for at least 1 or 2 years untill i can have enough cash to do it right and we all know that cost 3k-6k so ill just get the hood shot and go from there for now.

 

dont just look at the stock color , there are so many color choices out there , take a look at some color charts and see what really grabs ur attention .
its a lil more work in the end to do a color change , but a color change can make it a whole new car

if u had a rare ho or l98 car id say keep it stock

 

Im keeping the Maui blue no doubt there. It's not super rare but it's rare enough and I've had it for 14 years now. Definitly staying the small color.

 

Im having problems finding paint for this car..... dave did you ever paint yours? Find the right maui blue? I know there is a few blends and the last thing i want is the wrong one.

I got plenty of 2 inch pvc from work and stuff like that, where i will be building up a paint booth in my garage this spring once the car is movable as i want to put the booth right where the car is at now. Funny that a 30x50 poll barn was huge when i moved in over 4 years ago and now its freaking full. Im getting a dumpster this weekend to clean it up. Believe me ill have no problem filling a 30 yard dumpster from all the home remodleing, junk, car crap ill never use..exc. I already have a pile that will easily fill half of it....

 

mine wa spainted at macco right before i bought it , and it wasnt the right blue either


what u will more thenl likley need to do is take the paint code to a few body shops and see if they can mix up the proper color for ya

if they say they can and they will sell u the paint , ask them if they can spray a few test panels for ya before they mix up the full gallon of paint so u can be sure its right

 

I can get the paint no problem. 23u/ wa9537 but it's not cheep. 1 qt from 70 -90 bucks. I would have liked to get a gal of it and clear for when the car would have been painted but that's 200 bucks at a minimum just for the base. Cool thing is in 91 only 38xx camaro were painted that color. Came in a close 2nd for rarest color that year behind gunmetal 37xx which was a hundred less. Out of a total 100k give or take camaro that year.

 

u could contact the place i got my paint from and see if they can do that color. just tell them i told ya to contact them and u should get a good price

i cant disclose what i paid for my pearl paint kit but it was cheap


if u want the info let me know and ill hook ya up with the owners contact info

 

that would be cool man. I would appreciate it.

 

Well the transmission is finally ready to go in. I switched over the speedometer gears, the VSS, the transmission mount, the transmission temperature sensor, and the 6an. fittings for my braided 6an transmission lines to the cooler. I also ground the spots so that the adapter plate and bolts clear on the bellhousing.

Now I just need to finish all my rewiring and put in my new engine mounts. Then I can toss the engine transmission back in.

 

Not sure how fast you are going to take this car, but you need a trans scatter shield at 10.99 I think.

I am looking into which ones fit best right now.

Think I'm going to go TCI.

 

I dont want to put the car on kill mode. So if it car run a 11.20 11.30 right out the gate ill just keep it like it is, and slow it down to 11.50 so i can stay in my sportsman class. I severly doubt that it will run much under 10.90 on a amazing day, unless i can yank a 1.5x 60 or something low like that or i crank the boost to 16-20psi...lol

I am tinkering on the idea of running a 35hp shot of n20 the whole way down the track though. With the new converter it should spool up great and i wont have a need for the n20. But if i do shoot it, it will be 35-50 and thats it. That craps like crack for cars...

 

Mars by scatter shield you mean just the whole trans shield and not just a flex plate shield?

From what i see yes i need a sfi 4.1 trans shield.....

 

Hood should stay flat black like a classic race car [ sun glare ]

Every like old hotrods, with 10ft deep paint? They didn't have todays fancy stuff and still pulled off emaculant paint jobs. Stuff they used can be had for much cheaper and by the gallon.

http://stores.ebay.com/Paintforcars-...&_sid=21076865

 

Not flexplate shield, just the trans shield required for 10.00

I want to do drag week 2017, and the first track is like a 14 hr. drive, so I wanna god damn make sure that my car passes tech.

Now, onto finding a SFI balancer for a 3.9...

 

I plan to go to drag week and the next few years as well I'm sure I'll have a fun time finding anything for my 3.4 when it comes to SFI harmonic balancers

 

Umm, they make one... Summit has it. for a RWD 3.4...

 

what? Really... well I'm going to look. I never knew that.


EDIT: you sir are right for about 320 bucks I can get a SFI balancer. Now on to finding a SFI flex playe.. thanks for the tip as I never knew that a SFI damper was avaliable.

 

Those are just SBC dampers... look at the pulley bolt pattern. Unless they are just using stock photos.

Yes they will fit the 660, which is what I've been saying for a long time, but you need to figure out something for the crank pulley. The easiest would likely be to just drill the 660 crank pulley for the SBC pattern and then shim the accessories if there are any belt alignment issues. I've measured a small difference in overall height that might be of concern when using a SBC damper on a 660.

 

Well i have a busy month or 2 in front of me at work and i wont have time to work on the car at all as i wont be home but I did manage to get this done before work got hectic and i had to leave.

The motors just in there and not much else is done so alot of things need to be sorted out still but at least its in there and so is the trans and converter.

This is the built motor. Diamond forged pistons .010 over, scat I beam forged rods, ARP head studs, cosmic MLS .010 over head gaskets, then all the clevet bearings throughout plastic gauged to confirm specs. Static compression will be 9.6:1

It have the borg warner s366 on it, but will have turbosmart WG and also a turbosmart Race port BOV. I plan to run the 7psi outter spring I have in it at first, then toss in the inner 7psi springs to raise it up to 14psi. Then run from there depending on how fast it goes.



This also already has the transmission in it(I put it all in together in one piece). Its a Hughes 35-2dr with the added on transbrake as well(sent back and its really a 35-3d). Hardened input shaft, reverse man VB with a brake. Hughes rated it with the brake at 650HP. Plenty for me as i never plan to run something that strong with a V6. I have my VSS installed with my speedo gears to match my tires/gears as well as my temp sensor.

The PTC converter is also in there already as well. Its a 9.5" nissan core Billet converter. Spragless, turbo spline, We aimed for 4500-5000rpm so we shall see what it does this spring.

This is the first time I ever tossed the engine and trans all in, in one piece. I have to say it was dirt easy. Worked well. I have the new tubular cross member made for the TH350 in as well, I have to bolt it all up still. Hook up the driveshaft and then the adjustable tubular Tq arm. Then lots of work under the hood. Wont happen for at least a month because of my job but at least i got a big part done.

Im beyond excited for this set up to be together. I don't expect it to be a lot faster then last year but i plan it to be safer and more reliable by far.

 

More pics of the stuff i did last week.

Notice the msd coil modules so that i can easily tie in the DIS4 plus? Got them on a scratch and dent deal at summit the other weekend. 10 bucks a piece brand new never opened but the plastic that they came in had what looked like paint over spray or something on it. There loss my gain...lol

I have so much to do still its not even funny and have no idea when work will calm down so that i can work on the car but it will all be done right and look nice. Thats the goal. Finally not a crappy turbo hack job set up. Quality parts and a quality installation. Only thing i hate is how my pass cylinder merges into the x over.... terrible. Too bad i didnt have time to rebuild a set of SS headers for myself.. Oh well. They work ok so itll do for this year.

 

Just a thought... Cause I've done alot of testing with this...

I am using a basically stock PCV system with my setup. I plumbed drivers side head pre-turbo and the other side stock with a stock PCV valve to manifold pressure. I never get oil in the intercooler at all.

I used to have a catch tank plumbed in there, but it never had even a DROP of oil in it, so I ditched it, less clutter and weight.

Not a huge deal, but creating a slight vacuum in the crankcase is free HP. Plus around here the emissions police will like it much better.

 

I really dont know if i get alot of blow by or enough to cause oil vapors coming out of the valves covers (ive never ran a catch can), but I have those filters on it just so it doesn't pull so much dirt and dust in there. I thought of running it back into the intake system to keep some vacuum in the crank case but just never did it.

Can you post up a pic or 2 of how you routed it and such? Pics speak a thousand words. I appreciate it.

I would imagine that it could gain a high hp car 5-10-15 hp when you are dealing with a 450-550hp engine. Thanks for the tip.

 

Im slowly polishing this turd.....

 

here.. really simple

 

Easy enough. Thanks

Update. Got the bov welded up and ready to roll. Turbosmart race port one.

 

Starting to look like a engine again at last. Just tons of wireing to go....literly tons!

 

Update.... crap guys I have so much work to do and no time at all. But I will say this, the built forged 3.4/3400 hybrid DOES RUN> Fired it up the other day when i had literally 1 hr to spend at home. I was so relieved. That puppy is still running on E-85 so i have to get that crap outta there.

I didn't break the engine it, new cam and lifters, I only ran it for 2 30 second sessions. Reving 2k-3k.

Life has been hectic right now. Work has been insane but without it i wouldn't get to buy all the fancy stuff I have on this car now. I love my job and its definitely a blessing. 4 years of school down, one year to go and ill have a United Association Pipe-fitter/Welder Journeyman's card finally.

I have 3 weeks to figure out how i will make time to wire the car a bit more and finish up some more things so i can race it. Ill be happy if it just comes out running 12 flats at the track for now then dial it in later. I have that turbosmart WG with a 7psi spring in it to start and then another 10psi spring to toss in it once i get it going right.

Ill update as i move along.