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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
I am starting to look for a 3rd Gen for a restoration/build project for when my current car is done in the spring.
I've never owned a 3rd Gen before, so I'm wondering if there are any red flags to watch out for, any parts that might wear out quick but look good etc...?
I do want a manual transmission, but I do not have an engine preference.
Hi, I am hoping to get a 3rd Gen in a few months. Before I start looking, I am wondering what some red flags are that would indicate a camaro not worth buying?
There is a lot of advice posted in these forums regarding what might disqualify a vehicle as a restoration candidate. Since the vehicle is going to be restored, there isn't much which cannot be repaired or upgraded as part of the process.
The only thing which might completely eliminate a car from consideration would be corrosion. Severely rusted bodies can be nearly impossible to make right. Everything else can be repaired or replaced.
I would recomend you spend the most you can now - it will save you huge dollars down the road. Really good cars can still be had for $5k or less - you just need to look at a lot of them to find one. For 10k you can still find good rare cars, 1LE's, B4C's, G92's and convertibles.
If you can borrow or buy one of the coating thickness gauges that would be very helpful. Many people are told that the paint is original, yeah, original color maybe . Mine was repainted many times as evidenced here
Knowing how many times a car has been repainted (or how thick the painted surface is) will take you from saying "I can just scuff and squirt it" to "I have to completely strip all the paint."
Past that I would put the car in the air and look at the front frame rails to see if they are bent or dented-- a sure sign of a front end collision. Of course look for rust. The worst areas to have rust are in the body seams and the worst body seam to have rust in is around the rear wheel wells.
If all that still checks out then make sure all of the electronics work as intended and that you don't see any obvious wiring issues.
Then move to the doors, do they sag and grind the ground effects? Is it because the hinge is in need of obvious repair/replacement or does the hinge look ok in which case the frame itself or the door jamb may be bent out of shape.
If those things all check out than you most likely have an easily restorable car.
Picking a car you like is critical. It helps one see the potential and stay motivated as the time and expense add up. If you don't emotionally connect to the car being restored on some level its hard to see the project to completion.
At least 7 of 10 people that start a project do not get it finished.
Give yourself an edge get a car you like as it is.
Restoring my white RS cost 2x what I expected. The total cost would have paid for a new 2016 Corvette Grand Sport or new ZL1 Camaro. Love that project car enough you aren't going to mind spending the time and money on it. I have no regrets restoring my 91 RS the 400,000 mile daily driver, I can always get a C7GS later or a C7z06 but there's only one of my daily beater drive.
Really need to get under the car to check it out. The front shock towers can have rust issues if it was in a cold weather area and exposed to road salt.. It's not always obvious looking in the engine compartment, checking from under the car is critical.
Check for leaks, a lot of problems any car has started with a leak some where. Leaks lay the ground work for as issue to develop into an expensive repair.
The only spot of rust found on my near 400,000 mile 91 RS during restoration was on the raditor core support thanks to a leaking radiator that had slowly gone bad. My other 91 RS was completely rust free.
If the car is rust free...it has possible potential.
The differiential rear pinion seals tend to leak on these cars. That's a potential issue, as if it leaks enough the rear will run hot and damage its bearings etc. This a likely repair for these cars.
The leak is seldom noticeable unless your under the car. Replacement is a crap shoot depending on the mechanic doing the work. If its tightened properly by hand instead of with an impact wrench it, the crush collar can be positioned correctly.
I had a pinion seal replaced on a rear with 375,000+ miles, it was done correctly and no issues. Had one replaced on another 3rd Gen, with 114,xxx miles and it wasn't done correctly and rear end was destroyed with in 10-20 miles.
Last edited by Arctic White 91 RS; 12-17-2016 at 12:24 PM.
To me the first thing to check is if the car was cut up to do a fuel pump install. Some are real hack jobs.
Fold the rear seat back down and pull up the carpet to see the top of the trunk/hatch hump over the rear axle. That is where it will be cut to R&R the pump.
If so then it is your choice of whether to take the car or not. Can even take the cover off and see what kind of splicing was done on the fuel lines.
While there can also check the upper shock mounts. They are under the triangular foam fillers on each side. Lift off and check if the body pan has punched through around the shock mount. Not common but it does occur.
Check for rust on the floor boards and the body, really really want to ensure that there are no electrical issues, ie, backlights that don't light up on the dash (mine are junk and I couldn't see at night for 6 months). I would check the fluids, the overall way the motor runs, etc. Specifically I would want to make sure that the interior dohickey's all work, heat, ac radio etc. You said you want a manual car, well, if you get a v8 manual car, chances are the transmission mount is pretty tired out. It's easy to check for wear on the mount, when driving look for movement in the actual shifter, or if you're under the car pry up with a pry bar on the transmission.
To me the first thing to check is if the car was cut up to do a fuel pump install. Some are real hack jobs.
Fold the rear seat back down and pull up the carpet to see the top of the trunk/hatch hump over the rear axle. That is where it will be cut to R&R the pump.
If so then it is your choice of whether to take the car or not. Can even take the cover off and see what kind of splicing was done on the fuel lines.
While there can also check the upper shock mounts. They are under the triangular foam fillers on each side. Lift off and check if the body pan has punched through around the shock mount. Not common but it does occur.
RBob.
While I understand the fanaticism over the fuel pump hack/cut deal , there is no way possible I'd allow anyone to go pulling up carpets in any car I was selling . Ditto for pulling valve covers or any other such . There are a LOT of ham fisted buyers out there that I ain't allowing any more than a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the car for rust & other damage .
Tell me , would YOU really let a potential buyer go pulling out the carpets in a third gen you were selling ?
And yes , just in case anyone's wondering , I know for fact there are no holes cut anywhere in my car .....
My top priorities when buying a 3rd gen:
Check the VIN & make sure the SPID sticker in the console or rear hatch storage matches for the list of how the car originally was equipped. I will not buy one without the correct SPID.2nd run the numbers (RPO) codes & verify the car is correct.
3rd, check for rust in shock towers, to under the door to the floorboards & inner & outer quarters.
4th if you looking for original very the VIN on the front of the block......the last 6 numbers of the VIN will be stamped on the block.
Buy a solid start & there are still deals out there.
Manual or Automatic are up to you but automatic is much more common.
I've never looked for base models & always hunt for the top of the food chain: IROC or GTA (Maybe a T/A) as they were the most money when new & will continue to b tte most money.
Drive the car & know what needs to be addressed right away & determine if it's going to be a toy or daily driver. If a daily driver, some of this won't matter because it's just like buying any other used car but if abtoy, what are your intentions? If it's going to be modified then whatever your objections about the car will also be the same objections the next buyer might have.
5th: have $ ready to go if you find the right car because if it's a deal you are going to be in a rush to beat out the next buyer.
While I understand the fanaticism over the fuel pump hack/cut deal , there is no way possible I'd allow anyone to go pulling up carpets in any car I was selling . Ditto for pulling valve covers or any other such . There are a LOT of ham fisted buyers out there that I ain't allowing any more than a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the car for rust & other damage .
Tell me , would YOU really let a potential buyer go pulling out the carpets in a third gen you were selling ?
And yes , just in case anyone's wondering , I know for fact there are no holes cut anywhere in my car .....
When I sold my last engine I said I would only pull the valve covers or heads if the interested party paid me for the cost of gaskets if they didn't buy the engine. That way seemed the most fair to both of us. It gave them peace of mind I'm not hiding anything and me that if I pull it they are paying for the cost.
When I sold my last engine I said I would only pull the valve covers or heads if the interested party paid me for the cost of gaskets if they didn't buy the engine. That way seemed the most fair to both of us. It gave them peace of mind I'm not hiding anything and me that if I pull it they are paying for the cost.
That is the best kind of negotiation I've heard in such instance , very good thinking on your part . If each has a bit of skin in the game it tends to greatly up the honesty factor . I gotta admit to being a "death does us part" kind of car owner in that I will keep a car till no one would want it . The couple that I have sold over the years as running cars because I didn't like them from the get go , I've always given the buyer an honest list of the goods & bads and then priced it at a giveaway price just to be rid of it with good conscience , and then on to the next one .
No way anyone is pulling carpet or valve covers or anything attached. At some point you're going to roll the dice. Unless it's a $90k car.....the BOTH parties better be experts!
You say..... $90,000? Yep..... http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/inv...hawk-1581.aspx
While I understand the fanaticism over the fuel pump hack/cut deal , there is no way possible I'd allow anyone to go pulling up carpets in any car I was selling . Ditto for pulling valve covers or any other such . There are a LOT of ham fisted buyers out there that I ain't allowing any more than a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the car for rust & other damage .
Tell me , would YOU really let a potential buyer go pulling out the carpets in a third gen you were selling ?
They wouldn't have to, I'd already have the carpet pulled up.... And if I were the buyer and couldn't have a look-see, then I'm walking.
12-14-2016, 08:48 PM
. Mine was repainted many times as evidenced here
While I understand the fanaticism over the fuel pump hack/cut deal , there is no way possible I'd allow anyone to go pulling up carpets in any car I was selling . Ditto for pulling valve covers or any other such . There are a LOT of ham fisted buyers out there that I ain't allowing any more than a visual inspection of the top and bottom of the car for rust & other damage . 
And yes , just in case anyone's wondering , I know for fact there are no holes cut anywhere in my car ..... 