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I did this swap about a year ago and have had no problems. I spent a lot of time researching the wiring part of the conversion and ran into so much conflicting information that I just figured it out myself.
Remove CS-130 alternator (and braces to intake manifold and exhaust manifold.)
Note how much larger the AD244 is than the CS130.
Set your AD244 alternator into the mounting bracket and install, but do not tighten, the outer bolt.
Note how much material will need to be removed from the alternator mounting bracket.
Flip your alternator out of the path of any cuttings and remove just enough material elongating the
original alternator hole to be able to install your new bolt through the AD-244 mounting hole.
Note: You could use a smaller diameter bolt and not remove any material. Your choice.
Install the AD244 alternator with both bolts through the mounting bracket. The inner bolt is a 3/8"
UNC x 3-1/2" long hex head capscrew. The original bolt was buttonhead for clearance of the drive belt,
but I have not had any interference problems.
A local parts house built the output wire extension. It is about 6" long and is 4 gauge. I attached it to the
original output wire with a nut, bolt and star washer, then heat shrinked it and wrapped with wire loom.
Note the alternator was removed for clarity.
The original brace running from the intake manifold to the back of the inner mounting bracket is too
long because the flange on the AD244 is much thicker than the CS130 alternator. I fabricated a new
brace using 1/2" diameter cold roll mild steel. The ends were heated with an oxy-acetylene torch and
then flattened in a hydraulic press
The AD244 alternator does not have a provison for the brace running to the exhaust manifold bolt so I
left it off. This completes the physical mounting of the alternator. It looks factory original and enables
the reinstall of the original CS130.
Every AD244 I tried was triggered by the L wire. My Camaro uses the I wire to trigger the CS130
alternator. To test your alternator, hook up the output wire and build yourself a test rig using a
replacement harness for the AD244 (also applicable to any alternator). You will need the
aforementioned harness, light and some wire. I used bullet connectors to be able to easily switch
between the L wire and the I/F wire. I also built a resistor to be able to test it on the harness. The trigger
wire is attached (temporarily) to the output post.
I tried both the I/F wire and the L wire to see which excited the alternator. My alternator was triggered
on the L wire. The included pictures show the difference in voltage before, and after, the light.....
Since the adapter harness was straight through, I needed to modify it. I cut the I wire and L wires and
spliced them together with a Resistor, 1/2 Watt 470 Ohm Radioshack PN 271-1115, and heat shrinked
them. I tested the output with and without the sense wire hooked up and decided to go with it hooked
up (hence the splice and heatshrink). Note the adapter came with 4 wires but I removed 2 that were not required.
I got my adapter harness from a local alternator repair shop, Pn 43314, vendor unknown, but it looks to
be the same as this W3030D from Quality Power Auto.
Install the adapter harness and use some wire loom to give it a factory apperarance.
Due to the difference in case size, you will require a longer belt. I used an ACDelco 6PK2425.
Output is vastly improved, especially at idle.
And the completed install, looking like it came that way from the factory.
Completely reversible back to the original CS130.
Nice!!!! Did you put bright leds in the gauge illumination? Yours are so much brighter than even the ones on my low mile car. And a metric set of gauges nice
Nice job. I wonder if there is a harness adapter on the market that is already set up for this type of conversion. I did this swap on my 98 Tahoe and the wiring was plug and play so I lucked out.
Since the adapter harness was straight through, I needed to modify it. I cut the I wire and L wires and
spliced them together with a Resistor, 1/2 Watt 470 Ohm Radioshack PN 271-1115, and heat shrinked
them. I tested the output with and without the sense wire hooked up and decided to go with it hooked
up (hence the splice and heatshrink). Note the adapter came with 4 wires but I removed 2 that were not required.
I got my adapter harness from a local alternator repair shop, Pn 43314, vendor unknown, but it looks to
be the same as this W3030D from Quality Power Auto.
Install the adapter harness and use some wire loom to give it a factory apperarance.
Due to the difference in case size, you will require a longer belt. I used an ACDelco 6PK2425.
Output is vastly improved, especially at idle.
And the completed install, looking like it came that way from the factory.
Completely reversible back to the original CS130.
Excellent write up. Just have 2 questions. Which AD244 did you use and did you just end up leaving the back brace completely off?
I used the alternator I got from my local source, (he gave me a really good price on it). It appears to be from World Power Systems. The original spec would be an alternator from a 1999 to 2002 Silverado.
There is no provision to mount a rear brace and I have not fabricated any additional bracing.
I used the alternator I got from my local source, (he gave me a really good price on it). It appears to be from World Power Systems. The original spec would be an alternator from a 1999 to 2002 Silverado.
There is no provision to mount a rear brace and I have not fabricated any additional bracing.
Thanks for the reply. Was just doing some research and it's quite difficult finding the exact AC Delco equivalent. I want to do this but with the OEM alternator from ACD. Do you happen to know the case size? I think this is Delco part #3351092
This World Power Systems alternator has 253 Amp output.
Any AD244 clocked for a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, etc with the four wire connector will work. They came most commonly in 130 amp and 145 amp outputs
Denn11
I am thinking about this.
Reading on another site this alt will revert to 14.5 if it senses over charge or short.
Now, if that is a true fact, then could it be used as a 1 wire, or would doing so cause ultimate failure in a short time frame?
{ edit }
I would run as 1 wire because the Camaro does not have any alt plug or wires. Some time ago someone had removed that, along with a few other wires.
Last edited by t-top havoc; 09-04-2016 at 08:40 PM.
This World Power Systems alternator has 253 Amp output.
Any AD244 clocked for a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, etc with the four wire connector will work. They came most commonly in 130 amp and 145 amp outputs
Hey denn question for you. I just installed mine. Why did you use a resistor on the exciter wire? Can I run it without one?
what belt did you require for this and how did you find it?
I believe there might be another option that's cheaper and bolts right on. Will default to 13.8v without any wiring or can be controlled by a small 20$ box to run any voltage you want from 11-15.5.
its shown over here. you can get low mileage take off from new gm trucks for 100$ on ebay. *edit they are 220amp alt
02-02-2016, 12:35 AM
nice 
