New solid cam installed
#52
Supreme Member
Re: New solid cam installed
sure sounds healthy! kinda sounded like some tire slippage? what are you running for rear tires?
#55
Supreme Member
Re: New solid cam installed
i've not had much luck with DRs. better than street tires though. i had 295/55/15's and switched to slicks. much better traction for me. i also noticed firming up the rear suspension helped a lot. when it was soft, traction suked. i guess every car is different.
Last edited by redneckjoe; 05-22-2016 at 02:20 PM. Reason: added pic
#57
Supreme Member
Re: New solid cam installed
they actually say, 10.0/27.0/15. hoosiers. but theyre actually closer to 26" tall, 12" of tread area & about 14" total outside. they stick out a bit and i dont like that. plans call to tub the rear very soon. soon as funs can afford some axles, i'm narrowing the rear about 4".
bought some cheapy steel wheels to put them on, lol.
bought some cheapy steel wheels to put them on, lol.
Last edited by redneckjoe; 05-22-2016 at 07:36 PM.
#58
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
they actually say, 10.0/27.0/15. hoosiers. but theyre actually closer to 26" tall, 12" of tread area & about 14" total outside. they stick out a bit and i dont like that. plans call to tub the rear very soon. soon as funs can afford some axles, i'm narrowing the rear about 4".
bought some cheapy steel wheels to put them on, lol.
bought some cheapy steel wheels to put them on, lol.
#59
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#61
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Re: New solid cam installed
the only thing i had to change was the lug nuts. they use a different conical angle. i'll admit theyre heavier than aluminum. but i tried like 5 different tire shops and nobody could get the bead to seat on my 8" wheels.
also changed to a dual 3" exhaust. i had a dual 2 1/2", but it had a lot of bends in it. hoping to pick up a lil next time at the track. i guess we'll see?
also changed to a dual 3" exhaust. i had a dual 2 1/2", but it had a lot of bends in it. hoping to pick up a lil next time at the track. i guess we'll see?
#62
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
the only thing i had to change was the lug nuts. they use a different conical angle. i'll admit theyre heavier than aluminum. but i tried like 5 different tire shops and nobody could get the bead to seat on my 8" wheels.
also changed to a dual 3" exhaust. i had a dual 2 1/2", but it had a lot of bends in it. hoping to pick up a lil next time at the track. i guess we'll see?
also changed to a dual 3" exhaust. i had a dual 2 1/2", but it had a lot of bends in it. hoping to pick up a lil next time at the track. i guess we'll see?
#64
Supreme Member
Re: New solid cam installed
as i explained, my old exhaust had a lot of bends in it. this is mandrel bent, 3", stainless, (in the front), with a balance tube. its not finished with mufflers yet. just planning on some low restriction bullets. why? what problems do you see?
i got the tires used from a friend with a 850hp turbo LS 4th gen. he has a few sets i can get cheap used, over and over. why would you think they dont go well in a straight line? and as far as i know, theyre not circle track tires, he only drag races.
#65
Re: New solid cam installed
i'd be interested in seeing the stampings on the side of the tire to confirm it's a drag tire, cause it looks an awful lot like a circle track tire.
as for the exhaust, it may work, but it looks like the exhaust is going to have too many walls to crash into. i'd do an x-pipe or an h-pipe, not sure combination.
as for the exhaust, it may work, but it looks like the exhaust is going to have too many walls to crash into. i'd do an x-pipe or an h-pipe, not sure combination.
#66
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Car: 88 Firebird GTA
Engine: 385
Transmission: manual 350 Turbo
Axle/Gears: 4.30 9 inch
Re: New solid cam installed
Wicked, your 6.99 goal is possible once you get your chassis sorted. However, you may want to consider going to different events and seeing where you fit in and build accordingly. I ran 7.5x on my first TNT. Found a bracket series with a 7.0-7.64 bracket. I knew I had room to grow. Next, buy a rule book. Build to that. Safety equip. will add weight. Once you figure that out you can determine how carried away you need to be with weight reduction. I recently added a weight box so could add weight!
My set up:
Forged 383 CR 10.8:1
750 Proform race carb
Victor Jr.
Comp Cams HR .600 lift
210 CC heads
Moser 9 inch
Race weight without me: 2890
My results:
7.5X (3.50 gear, 26 inch slick, 31 degrees of timing)
7.4X (just more timing)
7.3X (28 inch slick, 4.30 gear)
7.0X (changed from a 3800 stall 10 inch to Coan 5000 stall 8 inch)
In good air the car wants to run 6.9X with a best of 6.93. The car wanted slightly more stall, more gear (its loafing at the finish line), and carb optimization, but I can now run at the bottom of my bracket (the other guy gets to red light first), and without much ado I can run 7.0 index events. In my case, I haven't built a car that will run as fast as possible, but one that fits a goal and isn't being punished to get there.
My set up:
Forged 383 CR 10.8:1
750 Proform race carb
Victor Jr.
Comp Cams HR .600 lift
210 CC heads
Moser 9 inch
Race weight without me: 2890
My results:
7.5X (3.50 gear, 26 inch slick, 31 degrees of timing)
7.4X (just more timing)
7.3X (28 inch slick, 4.30 gear)
7.0X (changed from a 3800 stall 10 inch to Coan 5000 stall 8 inch)
In good air the car wants to run 6.9X with a best of 6.93. The car wanted slightly more stall, more gear (its loafing at the finish line), and carb optimization, but I can now run at the bottom of my bracket (the other guy gets to red light first), and without much ado I can run 7.0 index events. In my case, I haven't built a car that will run as fast as possible, but one that fits a goal and isn't being punished to get there.
#67
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
https://youtu.be/GxQXAppGFuE
Here is the pass when I let car shift on its own...a.k.a...the slowest pass ever.
Here is the pass when I let car shift on its own...a.k.a...the slowest pass ever.
..
#70
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Yep, probably something in the float needle/seat. Do you have the bowl inlet filters?
Do you have a shift kit in the TH400? Should eliminate that 1-2 shift-on-its-own thing.
Nobody commented on your QP question. I got that kit a few years ago. The housing fabrication is good quality, even includes a drain plug. The torque arm mount leaves a lot to be desired - it takes up a lot of real estate, and those spherical ends allow the mount to move side-to-side. Supposedly they came up with a triangulating brace to fix the side-to-side problem, but it isn't listed as an option. Adjusting the pinion angle is a pain. You'll probably be okay with an aftermarket, non-adjustable TA like the BMR they offer at the bottom of the page. I destroyed an adjustable BMR, and a non-adjustable Jegster, before settling on an S&W 9" TA kit - that thing is stout.
My other nit with the QP 9" is they don't use axle seals - the sealed axle bearing is the "seal". Well, the bearing seal is designed for bearing grease, not gear lube. I had one side that constantly leaked until I found (with help) a seal that would fit inside their tube (a "standard" 9" axle seal won't work). To the best of my knowledge, they haven't fixed that design deficiency.
I would list the aftermarket axle assemblies available as S60, 9", 12-bolt in descending order. The advantage of the 9" is the huge aftermarket support, which dwarfs the other choices.
Do you have a shift kit in the TH400? Should eliminate that 1-2 shift-on-its-own thing.
Nobody commented on your QP question. I got that kit a few years ago. The housing fabrication is good quality, even includes a drain plug. The torque arm mount leaves a lot to be desired - it takes up a lot of real estate, and those spherical ends allow the mount to move side-to-side. Supposedly they came up with a triangulating brace to fix the side-to-side problem, but it isn't listed as an option. Adjusting the pinion angle is a pain. You'll probably be okay with an aftermarket, non-adjustable TA like the BMR they offer at the bottom of the page. I destroyed an adjustable BMR, and a non-adjustable Jegster, before settling on an S&W 9" TA kit - that thing is stout.
My other nit with the QP 9" is they don't use axle seals - the sealed axle bearing is the "seal". Well, the bearing seal is designed for bearing grease, not gear lube. I had one side that constantly leaked until I found (with help) a seal that would fit inside their tube (a "standard" 9" axle seal won't work). To the best of my knowledge, they haven't fixed that design deficiency.
I would list the aftermarket axle assemblies available as S60, 9", 12-bolt in descending order. The advantage of the 9" is the huge aftermarket support, which dwarfs the other choices.
#71
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Yep, probably something in the float needle/seat. Do you have the bowl inlet filters?
Do you have a shift kit in the TH400? Should eliminate that 1-2 shift-on-its-own thing.
Nobody commented on your QP question. I got that kit a few years ago. The housing fabrication is good quality, even includes a drain plug. The torque arm mount leaves a lot to be desired - it takes up a lot of real estate, and those spherical ends allow the mount to move side-to-side. Supposedly they came up with a triangulating brace to fix the side-to-side problem, but it isn't listed as an option. Adjusting the pinion angle is a pain. You'll probably be okay with an aftermarket, non-adjustable TA like the BMR they offer at the bottom of the page. I destroyed an adjustable BMR, and a non-adjustable Jegster, before settling on an S&W 9" TA kit - that thing is stout.
My other nit with the QP 9" is they don't use axle seals - the sealed axle bearing is the "seal". Well, the bearing seal is designed for bearing grease, not gear lube. I had one side that constantly leaked until I found (with help) a seal that would fit inside their tube (a "standard" 9" axle seal won't work). To the best of my knowledge, they haven't fixed that design deficiency.
I would list the aftermarket axle assemblies available as S60, 9", 12-bolt in descending order. The advantage of the 9" is the huge aftermarket support, which dwarfs the other choices.
Do you have a shift kit in the TH400? Should eliminate that 1-2 shift-on-its-own thing.
Nobody commented on your QP question. I got that kit a few years ago. The housing fabrication is good quality, even includes a drain plug. The torque arm mount leaves a lot to be desired - it takes up a lot of real estate, and those spherical ends allow the mount to move side-to-side. Supposedly they came up with a triangulating brace to fix the side-to-side problem, but it isn't listed as an option. Adjusting the pinion angle is a pain. You'll probably be okay with an aftermarket, non-adjustable TA like the BMR they offer at the bottom of the page. I destroyed an adjustable BMR, and a non-adjustable Jegster, before settling on an S&W 9" TA kit - that thing is stout.
My other nit with the QP 9" is they don't use axle seals - the sealed axle bearing is the "seal". Well, the bearing seal is designed for bearing grease, not gear lube. I had one side that constantly leaked until I found (with help) a seal that would fit inside their tube (a "standard" 9" axle seal won't work). To the best of my knowledge, they haven't fixed that design deficiency.
I would list the aftermarket axle assemblies available as S60, 9", 12-bolt in descending order. The advantage of the 9" is the huge aftermarket support, which dwarfs the other choices.
#72
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: New solid cam installed
Put them back in.
Any idea which brand? Been awhile, but I believe mine was a TCI (may have been B&M). Seems I had to grind the sides of a slider valve as part of the kit install. Also eliminated a 2-3 shift check ball that tends to wear out clutch plates.
No problem. I like to hear myself type...
No problem. I like to hear myself type...
#73
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Car: BUILDING 1985 HARD TOP T/A
Engine: sbc
Transmission: stick
Axle/Gears: GM
Re: New solid cam installed
Did you figure out what's up with the carb?
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
#74
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Put them back in.
Any idea which brand? Been awhile, but I believe mine was a TCI (may have been B&M). Seems I had to grind the sides of a slider valve as part of the kit install. Also eliminated a 2-3 shift check ball that tends to wear out clutch plates.
No problem. I like to hear myself type...
Any idea which brand? Been awhile, but I believe mine was a TCI (may have been B&M). Seems I had to grind the sides of a slider valve as part of the kit install. Also eliminated a 2-3 shift check ball that tends to wear out clutch plates.
No problem. I like to hear myself type...
#75
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Did you figure out what's up with the carb?
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
#77
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: New solid cam installed
Springs hold the car up. Too stiff a spring and the suspension won't move. Too light a spring and the suspension moves excessively. I'd have to check but I either have 110 or 130 pound springs on the rear and I think they're 110 pound.
Shocks is what does all the work controlling the spring movement.
My car has a 4-link so I have a lot of adjustment points but only a small handful are actually useful. Technically, you want the IC right along the anti-squat line. Above the line and the car will want to raise the front end a lot. Below the line and the rear tires get driven hard into the ground but too much and you get tire shake. I know my IC is still too high. With a 4-link, you can actually put the IC below the ground level. Using the third gens torque arm suspension means you have little to no adjustment of the IC point.
For best performance, you want the IC long and low. This will drive the tires down into the ground for best traction. This will also look like the back of the car is lifting as the tires go down. Having adjustable shocks, you want them to extend quickly but offer more resistance when compressing. This will allow the tires to stay planted for a little longer.
When launching, the suspension should not compress as weigh tis being transferred to the rear. If the suspension compresses two forces are in action. Body is pushing down and diff is moving up. If the diff moves up, there is less traction for the tires. You see that a lot with open diff single wheel burnouts. It's always the right rear tire spinning because the diff is rotating and that tire is lifting off the ground.
Another good way to increase traction is an anti-roll (sway) bar on the rear. It will help keep both tires planted and prevent a lot of body twisting.
Shocks is what does all the work controlling the spring movement.
My car has a 4-link so I have a lot of adjustment points but only a small handful are actually useful. Technically, you want the IC right along the anti-squat line. Above the line and the car will want to raise the front end a lot. Below the line and the rear tires get driven hard into the ground but too much and you get tire shake. I know my IC is still too high. With a 4-link, you can actually put the IC below the ground level. Using the third gens torque arm suspension means you have little to no adjustment of the IC point.
For best performance, you want the IC long and low. This will drive the tires down into the ground for best traction. This will also look like the back of the car is lifting as the tires go down. Having adjustable shocks, you want them to extend quickly but offer more resistance when compressing. This will allow the tires to stay planted for a little longer.
When launching, the suspension should not compress as weigh tis being transferred to the rear. If the suspension compresses two forces are in action. Body is pushing down and diff is moving up. If the diff moves up, there is less traction for the tires. You see that a lot with open diff single wheel burnouts. It's always the right rear tire spinning because the diff is rotating and that tire is lifting off the ground.
Another good way to increase traction is an anti-roll (sway) bar on the rear. It will help keep both tires planted and prevent a lot of body twisting.
#78
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Springs hold the car up. Too stiff a spring and the suspension won't move. Too light a spring and the suspension moves excessively. I'd have to check but I either have 110 or 130 pound springs on the rear and I think they're 110 pound.
Shocks is what does all the work controlling the spring movement.
My car has a 4-link so I have a lot of adjustment points but only a small handful are actually useful. Technically, you want the IC right along the anti-squat line. Above the line and the car will want to raise the front end a lot. Below the line and the rear tires get driven hard into the ground but too much and you get tire shake. I know my IC is still too high. With a 4-link, you can actually put the IC below the ground level. Using the third gens torque arm suspension means you have little to no adjustment of the IC point.
For best performance, you want the IC long and low. This will drive the tires down into the ground for best traction. This will also look like the back of the car is lifting as the tires go down. Having adjustable shocks, you want them to extend quickly but offer more resistance when compressing. This will allow the tires to stay planted for a little longer.
When launching, the suspension should not compress as weigh tis being transferred to the rear. If the suspension compresses two forces are in action. Body is pushing down and diff is moving up. If the diff moves up, there is less traction for the tires. You see that a lot with open diff single wheel burnouts. It's always the right rear tire spinning because the diff is rotating and that tire is lifting off the ground.
Another good way to increase traction is an anti-roll (sway) bar on the rear. It will help keep both tires planted and prevent a lot of body twisting.
Shocks is what does all the work controlling the spring movement.
My car has a 4-link so I have a lot of adjustment points but only a small handful are actually useful. Technically, you want the IC right along the anti-squat line. Above the line and the car will want to raise the front end a lot. Below the line and the rear tires get driven hard into the ground but too much and you get tire shake. I know my IC is still too high. With a 4-link, you can actually put the IC below the ground level. Using the third gens torque arm suspension means you have little to no adjustment of the IC point.
For best performance, you want the IC long and low. This will drive the tires down into the ground for best traction. This will also look like the back of the car is lifting as the tires go down. Having adjustable shocks, you want them to extend quickly but offer more resistance when compressing. This will allow the tires to stay planted for a little longer.
When launching, the suspension should not compress as weigh tis being transferred to the rear. If the suspension compresses two forces are in action. Body is pushing down and diff is moving up. If the diff moves up, there is less traction for the tires. You see that a lot with open diff single wheel burnouts. It's always the right rear tire spinning because the diff is rotating and that tire is lifting off the ground.
Another good way to increase traction is an anti-roll (sway) bar on the rear. It will help keep both tires planted and prevent a lot of body twisting.
#79
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Did you figure out what's up with the carb?
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
If you are still using the detent cable:
The shifting may also be that the detent cable is not quite right, try adjusting it a hair.
I know a lot of people who run an adjustable torque arm, without any issues. If you brake one from BMR OR UMI or PA Racing, you probably have another issue, but all of them have been very helpful with me and my project & I believe that they would stand behind their products. JMO
The carb had some junk in it and the plugs were fouled pretty bad. Good to go now.
Last edited by WickedBowtie; 05-27-2016 at 06:50 AM.
#80
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
1st- 8.472
2nd- 8.387
3rd-8.347
4th-8.267
5th-8.133
6th-7.936
Only thing different is the rear springs and shocks and I played around with tire pressure and swapped my one inch carb spacer to a 2 inch.
Overall I'm happy. She got into the 7s...barely. The Trans was acting like it is supposed to. So that was good. I was launching anywhere from 2500 to 3000 on the FB. Rearend is still holding up good as far as I can tell.
I'm still spinning...not as much..but more than I want. My LCARBs should be here in a few days. And I'll remove shocks and try a different setting. I had them in 50/50 And tried to adjust them on car but just wasn't happening. Kind of crappy design.
My tach light and shift light both tapped out so I have no idea what I was shifting at...I bounced off of RL once and thsts set for 6800. I was mostly going off of feel and engine noise...lol....I'll dig into her this weekend and see what happened. All in all I am happy...
Last edited by WickedBowtie; 05-31-2016 at 08:04 AM.
#83
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Been a productive day. Got the New Tach installed and wired up and also made an adjustment on the rear shocks from 50/50 to 40/60. LCARBS going on when they show up.
Last edited by WickedBowtie; 05-31-2016 at 08:13 AM.
#84
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Got the LCARBs in mail. Might wait to install them until i can make a few passes with just the shock adjustment and then install them. I dont know yet..lol..Its taking everything i have to not go out in garage and burn them in.
#91
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Ok..so momma let me spend some money. I am ditching my 4th gen rearend for a 9 inch at third gen width. My question is now that I'm narrowing my axle back to stick width my current wheels won't work at 6.5 BS. I plan on keeping my 275 DRs so what BS am I going to need now? I don't want them to stick out at all. Thanks for any input.
#92
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Car: BUILDING 1985 HARD TOP T/A
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Re: New solid cam installed
I know that a 5.5" back spacing works with a stiff walled slick. You might be able to run a 6" bs with a radial.... not sure. You can run a 1" wheel spacer & a 5.5" bs rim, but if you're going to have to buy new rims.... just measure & buy what fits, JMO.
I would not recommend having the tires stick out past the wheel well lip, you'll have to stiffen the rear suspension so that the tire will not rub or get cut/gouged by the lip. If you have not already done so, here are a couple of ways to gain a little bit more clearance :
1) roll the wheel well lip, (some people have even cut the entire lip from the fender, to me it looks like sh_t, but if you roll the lip in leaving about 1/4" of the lip.... it looks good).
2) there's a big ugly azz bump in the middle of of the wheel well above the bump stop bracket & frame. Cut it out, be careful not to just burn through all the layers of metal ( there's 2-3 different layer's in different spots of the bump) you can successfully remove only the metal that bulges out into the area of the rim & tire, and still have metal there.
Side note, you are running aftermarket LCA'S, so you have gained a little clearance there already.
I would not recommend having the tires stick out past the wheel well lip, you'll have to stiffen the rear suspension so that the tire will not rub or get cut/gouged by the lip. If you have not already done so, here are a couple of ways to gain a little bit more clearance :
1) roll the wheel well lip, (some people have even cut the entire lip from the fender, to me it looks like sh_t, but if you roll the lip in leaving about 1/4" of the lip.... it looks good).
2) there's a big ugly azz bump in the middle of of the wheel well above the bump stop bracket & frame. Cut it out, be careful not to just burn through all the layers of metal ( there's 2-3 different layer's in different spots of the bump) you can successfully remove only the metal that bulges out into the area of the rim & tire, and still have metal there.
Side note, you are running aftermarket LCA'S, so you have gained a little clearance there already.
#94
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
Ok...I'll have to check once it gets here. Any pictures of that area I need to cut out so I can see for sure?
#95
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Car: BUILDING 1985 HARD TOP T/A
Engine: sbc
Transmission: stick
Axle/Gears: GM
Re: New solid cam installed
#96
Re: New solid cam installed
check this link.. the gray inner sheet..can be done away with..its trash thin not worth keeping. just cut it out as one piece.. only cut upward from bottom about 4 to 4 1/2" keep the top of the spring and shock coverd. you will see I put a strap back in.. its up to you.i did it to keep the spring in it's seat/safty stop is all...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...-6-5-back.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...-6-5-back.html
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-14-2016 at 07:15 PM.
#97
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Car: BUILDING 1985 HARD TOP T/A
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Re: New solid cam installed
I promise, if you pull the rear wheel & look at the body of the wheel well directly above the rearend, you can't miss it.
#98
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9 inch, 35 spline drag spool,4.56
Re: New solid cam installed
How about a stock RS wheel 15x7 with 4.5 BS. Will that for my 275 safely and tuck in nice?
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Car: BUILDING 1985 HARD TOP T/A
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