Anyone who has completed a Procherger install inside please!!!
#1
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
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From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Anyone who has completed a Procherger install inside please!!!
I am finally going to get around to installing mine, and would like some tips and hints from people who's already been thru this once....
I have the Procharger P1-SC kit with intercooler...
What is the harder parts in this install?
What's the do's and don'ts of it?
I have the Procharger P1-SC kit with intercooler...
What is the harder parts in this install?
What's the do's and don'ts of it?
#2
Congrats on the purchase,
I would say the hardest part of the install, is understanding the installation manual, other than that, it is a pretty straight forward install, which can be done with basic hand tools.
tuning the engine to perform well, and withstand the boost is another issue altogether.
If you have any questions, you can e-mail me at maniac@megamania.com
If you need pics of something i have a digital camera and a procharger unit (D1sc) on my car and would be happy to help in anyway.
later
larry
I would say the hardest part of the install, is understanding the installation manual, other than that, it is a pretty straight forward install, which can be done with basic hand tools.
tuning the engine to perform well, and withstand the boost is another issue altogether.
If you have any questions, you can e-mail me at maniac@megamania.com
If you need pics of something i have a digital camera and a procharger unit (D1sc) on my car and would be happy to help in anyway.
later
larry
#3
I only ran into a couple of problems other than the crappy instructions.
The longer bolt they give you for the crank pulley and spacer is about 1/4 inch too short. I ran out and bought a 3 inch bolt and it worked fine.
Don't cut anything until you absolutely find that you have too. I only had to cut 1 of the 8 things they tell you to cut.
Make sure the pulley spacer and the crank pulley fit together perfectly. If they don't, you'll end up with a lot of wobble.
The longer bolt they give you for the crank pulley and spacer is about 1/4 inch too short. I ran out and bought a 3 inch bolt and it worked fine.
Don't cut anything until you absolutely find that you have too. I only had to cut 1 of the 8 things they tell you to cut.
Make sure the pulley spacer and the crank pulley fit together perfectly. If they don't, you'll end up with a lot of wobble.
#5
They tell you to cut 3 of the fascia supports to make room for the intercooler, but I only had to cut one.
They tell you to cut the fuel lines, but the fuel pump is supplied with fittings so you don't really have to cut them.
They tell you to cut the fuel lines up near the engine, but here again they supply fittings so you don't really have to cut them.
They tell you to cut the radiator hose support to clear the pulleys, but then after they tell you to cut it, they tell you that you only have to cut it if you are using the 12 rib pulleys instead of the 8 rib pulleys
They tell you to cut the fuel lines, but the fuel pump is supplied with fittings so you don't really have to cut them.
They tell you to cut the fuel lines up near the engine, but here again they supply fittings so you don't really have to cut them.
They tell you to cut the radiator hose support to clear the pulleys, but then after they tell you to cut it, they tell you that you only have to cut it if you are using the 12 rib pulleys instead of the 8 rib pulleys
#6
Maybe they have updated the in line fuel pump, but when i got my kit about 2 years ago
the inline pump didn't have fittings, just the FMU did
i had to cut the fuel line and flare the stock one just like the instructions said
also, i only had 8 rib pulley's and i had to cut the radiator hose a little
if you look at the directions closely, it says to cut about 1" i think for the 8 rib pulleys and i think about 1.5-2" for the 12rib pulleys
the inline pump didn't have fittings, just the FMU did
i had to cut the fuel line and flare the stock one just like the instructions said
also, i only had 8 rib pulley's and i had to cut the radiator hose a little
if you look at the directions closely, it says to cut about 1" i think for the 8 rib pulleys and i think about 1.5-2" for the 12rib pulleys
#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Thanks for the help guys, I'll surely post again if I run into any trouble, it's soon the end of the week and time to start working on the install....
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#8
I too had to cut only the center fascia support, and i had to cut the fuel line to install the in-line pump, (but that was only because the line was seized in the filter), otherwise it would have been plug and play, the FMU was also plug and play (no cutting)
I did have to cut approximately 1" from the upper radiator hose at the radiator end, and plastic tie the hose to the radiator support to keep it away from the belt (i have the 12-rib system).
I also forgot (as KS91Z28 already mentioned) that i had to go to the local hardware store and get three 4 1/2" bolts (grade 8) for the crankpulley, the bolts that i received with my kit barely threaded into the damper (about 4 threads)
And lastly, i had to grind alittle on the idler pulley tensioner bracket to keep from hitting the alternator pulley.
later
larry
I did have to cut approximately 1" from the upper radiator hose at the radiator end, and plastic tie the hose to the radiator support to keep it away from the belt (i have the 12-rib system).
I also forgot (as KS91Z28 already mentioned) that i had to go to the local hardware store and get three 4 1/2" bolts (grade 8) for the crankpulley, the bolts that i received with my kit barely threaded into the damper (about 4 threads)
And lastly, i had to grind alittle on the idler pulley tensioner bracket to keep from hitting the alternator pulley.
later
larry
#9
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I didnt cut any supports on this 91 Z install because the first time I did it, I didnt understand what they were asking me to cut, so now I never cut any and install them all this way.
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 03-22-2002 at 10:07 PM.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by maniacc
Tom,
That looks like that IC is the 2-core, which maybe able to be installed without any cutting, but i don't think that you'll get away with that on the 3-core IC
Tom,
That looks like that IC is the 2-core, which maybe able to be installed without any cutting, but i don't think that you'll get away with that on the 3-core IC
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Well, spent about two days in the garage now, and I think I am done with the hardest parts of the install.
I have been doing it some parts per day since I need to be able to drive the car to/from the place where I work on it, so far it seems to work fine.
I have got all components of the fuel system hooked up and running, and all brackets for the supercharger, the pulley installed... Also installed an AFR Ratio gauge and Boost gauge to keep an eye of how things work out.
I switched back to my stock chip since the manual told me to do so, will develop a chip suitable for the supercharger when I have gotten it all in place.
Had to modify the bracket to make clearance for the original v-belt setup, but didn't have to cut any fuel lines, the new kit I got includes the right connectors for both the fuel pump and FMU.
But I must say that the installation manual truly sucks - Solving a puzzle with blindfolds would have been easier.
(Mind you, I am a network tech, I just do things like this for fun!).
Maybe we should put together an Howto file, since that would probably help alot of others who haven't gotten around to doing the install yet?
I have a digital camera and can arrange for good quality pictures of where things should go and such....
I have been doing it some parts per day since I need to be able to drive the car to/from the place where I work on it, so far it seems to work fine.
I have got all components of the fuel system hooked up and running, and all brackets for the supercharger, the pulley installed... Also installed an AFR Ratio gauge and Boost gauge to keep an eye of how things work out.
I switched back to my stock chip since the manual told me to do so, will develop a chip suitable for the supercharger when I have gotten it all in place.
Had to modify the bracket to make clearance for the original v-belt setup, but didn't have to cut any fuel lines, the new kit I got includes the right connectors for both the fuel pump and FMU.
But I must say that the installation manual truly sucks - Solving a puzzle with blindfolds would have been easier.
(Mind you, I am a network tech, I just do things like this for fun!).
Maybe we should put together an Howto file, since that would probably help alot of others who haven't gotten around to doing the install yet?
I have a digital camera and can arrange for good quality pictures of where things should go and such....
#14
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
keeping an eye on A/F ratio, I actually like the aftermarket chip with the blower and RACE GAS at the track.
#15
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
keeping an eye on A/F ratio, I actually like the aftermarket chip with the blower and RACE GAS at the track.
keeping an eye on A/F ratio, I actually like the aftermarket chip with the blower and RACE GAS at the track.
What chip are you using, made your own or bought one?
#16
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
I finally got everything in place, except for the V-belt, either I misunderstood the instructions on how it should be routed, or it might be the wrong belt size?
I have the 4.00" pulley for 10 PSI, and I got the Gates 80653-8 belt..... Anyone know if this is the right one?
And by the way, is it safe to drive the car with the SC installed but no belt running to the SC?
Anyone got a good set of photos of an installed P-1SC, I think I need to confirm I got everything where it should be!!! :hail:
I have the 4.00" pulley for 10 PSI, and I got the Gates 80653-8 belt..... Anyone know if this is the right one?
And by the way, is it safe to drive the car with the SC installed but no belt running to the SC?
Anyone got a good set of photos of an installed P-1SC, I think I need to confirm I got everything where it should be!!! :hail:
#17
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Posts: 2,926
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From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
....is it safe to drive the car with the SC installed but no belt running to the SC?
Yes, you'll get sufficient airflow, some through the compressor but primarily through the surge valve tubing.
This is exactly how I drive my car when the blower isn't hooked up.
Willie
Yes, you'll get sufficient airflow, some through the compressor but primarily through the surge valve tubing.
This is exactly how I drive my car when the blower isn't hooked up.
Willie
#18
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Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
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From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Originally posted by Willie
....is it safe to drive the car with the SC installed but no belt running to the SC?
Yes, you'll get sufficient airflow, some through the compressor but primarily through the surge valve tubing.
This is exactly how I drive my car when the blower isn't hooked up.
Willie
....is it safe to drive the car with the SC installed but no belt running to the SC?
Yes, you'll get sufficient airflow, some through the compressor but primarily through the surge valve tubing.
This is exactly how I drive my car when the blower isn't hooked up.
Willie
How do I find out if ATI sent me the right one?
Do you have any pictures of how the belt should be installed I am a bit uncertain if I got the instructions right....
Because the belt + tuning the FMU is all I have left to do now.....
#19
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From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
Do you have any pictures of how the belt should be installed I am a bit uncertain if I got the instructions right....
I don't. But the belt routing isn't that difficult to describe. All you need to know is that the belt contacts ALL idlers on the backside. Hopefully, this will help.
....+ tuning the FMU is all I have left to do now.....
A word about tuning. Make only one change at a time. You have an A/F gauge so you can make evaluations as you go. Do not connect the FMU initially. Create only 5 - 6 psig boost and watch your O2 millivoltage. You should see a minimum of 800mV (preferably higher -- ~850 - 900mV). If you do, you're okay. Gradually increase boost and keep an eye on that gauge. If you install the FMU, you're introducing another variable which makes tuning that much more difficult.
I do not use an FMU because I do not like the idea of greatly increasing fuel pressure as a method of fuel enrichment. Instead, I use the Superfueler, which gives me complete control at 10 different set points (but that's another story). In addition, an FMU can only increase pressure linearly -- it's not tunable. The only "tuning" allowed is to set the endpoint. All midpoints are on a linear curve.
FYI, your fuel pressure regulator will increase pressure on the order of 1 psig fuel pressure to 1 lb of boost. So for 10 psig boost, your pressure should increase by ~10 psig. In my case, I can run up to 10 psig boost without fuel enrichment.
Bottom line: Make sure your O2 readings are good before fuel enrichment (FMU in your case). I'm willing to bet you're okay. Introduce only one variable at a time. This is the only way.
Willie
I don't. But the belt routing isn't that difficult to describe. All you need to know is that the belt contacts ALL idlers on the backside. Hopefully, this will help.
....+ tuning the FMU is all I have left to do now.....
A word about tuning. Make only one change at a time. You have an A/F gauge so you can make evaluations as you go. Do not connect the FMU initially. Create only 5 - 6 psig boost and watch your O2 millivoltage. You should see a minimum of 800mV (preferably higher -- ~850 - 900mV). If you do, you're okay. Gradually increase boost and keep an eye on that gauge. If you install the FMU, you're introducing another variable which makes tuning that much more difficult.
I do not use an FMU because I do not like the idea of greatly increasing fuel pressure as a method of fuel enrichment. Instead, I use the Superfueler, which gives me complete control at 10 different set points (but that's another story). In addition, an FMU can only increase pressure linearly -- it's not tunable. The only "tuning" allowed is to set the endpoint. All midpoints are on a linear curve.
FYI, your fuel pressure regulator will increase pressure on the order of 1 psig fuel pressure to 1 lb of boost. So for 10 psig boost, your pressure should increase by ~10 psig. In my case, I can run up to 10 psig boost without fuel enrichment.
Bottom line: Make sure your O2 readings are good before fuel enrichment (FMU in your case). I'm willing to bet you're okay. Introduce only one variable at a time. This is the only way.
Willie
#20
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Originally posted by Willie
Do you have any pictures of how the belt should be installed I am a bit uncertain if I got the instructions right....
I don't. But the belt routing isn't that difficult to describe. All you need to know is that the belt contacts ALL idlers on the backside. Hopefully, this will help.
I will have a second look at it during the week, the car is drivable, but I sure can't wait to see how it'll perform with the belt in place
....+ tuning the FMU is all I have left to do now.....
A word about tuning. Make only one change at a time. You have an A/F gauge so you can make evaluations as you go. Do not connect the FMU initially. Create only 5 - 6 psig boost and watch your O2 millivoltage. You should see a minimum of 800mV (preferably higher -- ~850 - 900mV). If you do, you're okay. Gradually increase boost and keep an eye on that gauge. If you install the FMU, you're introducing another variable which makes tuning that much more difficult.
I already have the FMU connected, and with no boost (Haven't installed the Belt for the supercharger yet), the A/F gauge looks normal and the car runs like it used to.
(A/F gauge flips between lean and 14:7 when idling or at steady cruise, and goes to rich when I hit the throttle).
I do not use an FMU because I do not like the idea of greatly increasing fuel pressure as a method of fuel enrichment. Instead, I use the Superfueler, which gives me complete control at 10 different set points (but that's another story). In addition, an FMU can only increase pressure linearly -- it's not tunable. The only "tuning" allowed is to set the endpoint. All midpoints are on a linear curve.
Might want to look closer at that when I have got the setup running, where did you buy it and how much was it?
FYI, your fuel pressure regulator will increase pressure on the order of 1 psig fuel pressure to 1 lb of boost. So for 10 psig boost, your pressure should increase by ~10 psig. In my case, I can run up to 10 psig boost without fuel enrichment.
Bottom line: Make sure your O2 readings are good before fuel enrichment (FMU in your case). I'm willing to bet you're okay. Introduce only one variable at a time. This is the only way.
Willie
Do you have any pictures of how the belt should be installed I am a bit uncertain if I got the instructions right....
I don't. But the belt routing isn't that difficult to describe. All you need to know is that the belt contacts ALL idlers on the backside. Hopefully, this will help.
I will have a second look at it during the week, the car is drivable, but I sure can't wait to see how it'll perform with the belt in place
....+ tuning the FMU is all I have left to do now.....
A word about tuning. Make only one change at a time. You have an A/F gauge so you can make evaluations as you go. Do not connect the FMU initially. Create only 5 - 6 psig boost and watch your O2 millivoltage. You should see a minimum of 800mV (preferably higher -- ~850 - 900mV). If you do, you're okay. Gradually increase boost and keep an eye on that gauge. If you install the FMU, you're introducing another variable which makes tuning that much more difficult.
I already have the FMU connected, and with no boost (Haven't installed the Belt for the supercharger yet), the A/F gauge looks normal and the car runs like it used to.
(A/F gauge flips between lean and 14:7 when idling or at steady cruise, and goes to rich when I hit the throttle).
I do not use an FMU because I do not like the idea of greatly increasing fuel pressure as a method of fuel enrichment. Instead, I use the Superfueler, which gives me complete control at 10 different set points (but that's another story). In addition, an FMU can only increase pressure linearly -- it's not tunable. The only "tuning" allowed is to set the endpoint. All midpoints are on a linear curve.
Might want to look closer at that when I have got the setup running, where did you buy it and how much was it?
FYI, your fuel pressure regulator will increase pressure on the order of 1 psig fuel pressure to 1 lb of boost. So for 10 psig boost, your pressure should increase by ~10 psig. In my case, I can run up to 10 psig boost without fuel enrichment.
Bottom line: Make sure your O2 readings are good before fuel enrichment (FMU in your case). I'm willing to bet you're okay. Introduce only one variable at a time. This is the only way.
Willie
#21
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by ZaphodB
I will keep an eya at that gauge, I suspected that it might be quite important
What chip are you using, made your own or bought one?
I will keep an eya at that gauge, I suspected that it might be quite important
What chip are you using, made your own or bought one?
#23
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
here is how I mounted the FMU, drill the bracket, not the car!
#24
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Uppsala, Sweden
Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
here is anice set of belt route pics
here is anice set of belt route pics
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