vortecfcar

I posted this on the drag racing board but I dont know how many of you guys actually go over there. Seeing as how nitrous is involved I figured it wouldnt hurt to post here too.


Last season I ran my car at the track once with the bottle in it and couldnt launch on the can. I ended up starting to spray in second gear. This season I plan on putting a new adjustable torque arm on and maybe lowering the rear a little bit (seems high). I have drag radials and the 3000 stall. My previous best sixty foot was a lame 1.9 (2.1 on the Nitrous pass). Also note that I have a stud girdle for the 7.5inch. I plan on running a 125 shot this season and trying to launch the car on it. Do you guys think this is possible, and if not....what is the limiting factor. What kind of 60ft/ 1/4 mile times can I expect on/off the bottle if I hook it up on the line.

Thanks a lot for the input guys, I appreciate it.

Nick

GofasterFirebird

iTrader: (3)

looks like you have enough power for a 1.6 60. Tires, well different story. I run a 1.95.

Z28z

iTrader: (1)

I run a 100 shot and hook up good. I've done this on the street though. I run 20psi in the Nittos and do a quick burn out and launch it around 1500 rpm. I just stick and go. I can't wait for the track to open and see if I hooks there.

vortecfcar

Ive tried everthing to get this car to hook as far as different burnouts and tire pressure. Ever since I put the 3000 stall in it, there is just no chance for the tires in first gear.....even off the botte . Thanks for the replies guys, I guess Ill just have to see when the time comes huh.

GofasterFirebird

iTrader: (3)

Damn the torque!! What is your pinion angle?

vortecfcar

right now it's whatever stock rear suspension is. I havent got an adjustable arm yet.

what is the preferred pinion angle?

B4Ctom1

no offense to you drag radial guys, but the only cars I have ever seen that hook on them are either underpowered, or race cars with ballast and race suspesion. to me they seem to be an oxymoron. "drag" and "radial" do not go together. I understand that good top end half of a quarter miles are produced with the more stable and less resistent radial side wall. that is why some of the companies are producing test versions of a radial slick for drag racing, and even I have experimented with circle track slicks but my biggest question is why not ET streets on some of your higher powered cars, I honestly am curious?

12 Sec GTA

ET streets aren't as good on the street as drag radials in my experience.. it may sound crazy, but the best rain tire I've EVER had on my GTA was a set of nitto 555r drag radials... those things were incredible. And for the price, it's well worth the combination of traction + streetability.

vortecfcar

When I first got the drag radials I could hardly run a 13.5 and had no trouble hooking - power was easily harnessed. And I agree with the rain tire comment, these things are phenomenol in the wet.....not like it matters. I still have plenty of tread on the tires and dont plan on wasting 300 dollars on ET streets if I can get this thing to plant on the tires I already have.

385tranz

have you ever thought about using a stage 2 nos kit or even a nos timer. this way you can use a smaller dose at the line and a large dose down the track.

i run a 100 shot from the line and my best 60' is 1.84 on 275 50r bfgoodrich drag radials, w/17psi in them but i do still get the highly annoying tire spin most of the time

bjm323

Most of the high horsepower cars you see running the drag radials are pulling timing out of the car for the launch. As they go down the track, they are putting timing back into the motor. I not sure what they are using to do it, but any ignition company like MSD could help point you in the right direction. Give them a call. Still you are going to need to get a good traction device for the rear suspension. Like stated before, you could also run 2 stages to help traction.

12 Sec GTA

if you want to get into decently high $$ ways to get good solid N2O launches, check into the F.R.E.D. by NX, it's a nitrous mastermind.. works GREAT... I highly recommend it.

94-6spd

My drag radials are awesome! My car really hooks hard on the street. I make sure I heat them up really good and I have the tire pressure at about 17 psi. When heated they are STICKY! I also have a poly torque arm bushing and lakewood lca's with poly bushings in them. My motor is just about the same as yours so I would think that it should work the same. I just bought some Southside Machine sfc's and Spohn lca relocation brackets. I got the brackets and sfc's because I am gonna shoot some juice on the launch also. Hopefully it'll hook. I also have a 3000 converter. I usually launch at about 2800.

How much pressure you running? Are you heating them up very much?

B4Ctom1

you will get no arguement from me about the unrulyness in the rain with the ET streets but then again I'm a friday night puttin the ET's on and a sunday taken em off, not drivin my baby in the rain except on road trips guy. https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=3980

LottaBallsCamaro

I think LCA's will help you out alot.

vortecfcar

I don think Im gonna get so carried away as to retard timing on the launch but Im gonna go ahead and box the LCA's and get an adjustable torque arm....thanks for all the input guys, hopefully Ill see some mid eleven second passes if I can stick this damn thing

The Man

i just ran last weekend and had my best passes ever in my 92Z28. It has 357ci(.040),basically stock motor/heads(except Speed Pro Hypereutectic Ft 10.2 cr, LT4 Hot cam, lightly ported stock base and ported SLP runners/plenum. It has N2O 100-250hp kit.Now it is set at 150HP. The Yank 3200 LC(it stalls alot more than that, about 5000 on the bottle ). I will have it tighten up in a couple of weeks or will change heads,intake set up(single plain type) and leave it like it is. Stock posi rearend(3.23's). I just repalce the axles with Moser axles ,stripped one a couple of weeks ago. Stock suspension except(boxed and poly bushed)LCA and LCA lowering brackets. 26x10.5x15 ET streets.

On motor it ran 8.40's in the 1/8 1.72 60-ft spinning alittle.
footbrake around 2500 and decked it on the line on the bottle, it hooked great. 7.67 1/8 and 1.61 60ft. I ran it a few more times and the 60ft stayed about the same 1.62,1.63. also I hook just as good on the street as the strip .

If you want to forget about spinning then get you some ET streets or hoosier Quicktime pro's. I have radials to drive everyday during the week. ET's SUCK IN THE RAIN!

I think about pilling up to the 175HP and see what happens . the rear should love it.

Brandog87GTA

Those are some good 1/8th mile times. Looks like I have the worse traction problems here. My 60 ft are a 2.3. Drag radials help me any?

vortecfcar

****ty 60fts are the norm with drag radials on thirdgens apparently. Learn from me and just buy a set of Mickey Thompsons.

94-6spd

Do you have aftermarket LCA's or poly bushings? What about relocation brackets? All of that should really put a dent in your 60 ft. times.

chevyboy07 91

on the street I dont hook until the middle of third on my GSC's and a 150......on the 80 shot, I can grab second and traction is good....I always break loose on the 2-3 shift tho heheheeh...I love this tranny


I run Hossier 9" slicks 26" tall at the track on 15" rims.....I can cut 1.6 shorts launching on the bottle and run into the 11's all day

The Man

Do you have aftermarket LCA's or poly bushings? What about relocation brackets? All of that should really put a dent in your 60 ft. times.??


If you are referring to me, I have stock control arms that I installed poly bushings in it(from Summit) and boxed them myself with 1/8 "thick steel plate on the bottom. I then bought lowering control arm brakets(from Spohn), they lower the back on the LCA 2" and change the rear suspenion.($60.00). I wish I had a Spohn torque arm. you can feel the tranny mount flex alot(lol).
I do hane the front sway bar disconnected(for the track).

Jer82Z28

Yea I would definatly look into tightening up your suspension and see how well you hook up

SFCs, LCA's and reloc brackets, torque arm and maybe try removing your front sway bar?
perhaps some new rear shocks/springs also.