Vortech T Trim build Winter 2015/2016
#51
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
I would go the epoxy route too. Rough up the surface a bit, even cut some small grooves in the base aluminum to give it some teeth, a good cleaning and degreasing, then apply two part JB weld. Some porters actually go that route just to redesign the port shape.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Had some time so I welded up the intake. Took about 40 minutes. I rough grounded it just to make sure my welds were ok.
I will send it off to the machine shop tomorrow or the next day to face the flanges. I wish my bridgeport was up and running, I gotta work on that one day.
Anyway, got my 3/8 powdercoated bracket and crank pulley spacer. Spacer is 1 5/8".
-- Joe
I will send it off to the machine shop tomorrow or the next day to face the flanges. I wish my bridgeport was up and running, I gotta work on that one day.
Anyway, got my 3/8 powdercoated bracket and crank pulley spacer. Spacer is 1 5/8".
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
could u not file it flat again? thats a pretty wide surface should be easy to get the file to lay flat
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Here is a preview of the bracket assembly on the engine. I may have to modify it a bit cuz the blower crashes into the bottom of the shock tower.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
I would work on your oil drain from the bottom of the blower back into the oil pan. Trying to punch a hole in the oil pan was a horrible experience for me. My aftermarket moroso pan was thick as hell and hard to pierce.
I know you ran blowers previously, but I had belt alignment issues when I first got mine started. I borrowed a gates laser alignment tool (sell for $85 on rockauto.com) and lined up my pulley after moving my bracket towards the front of the car using washers behind the bracket.
Since you are making your own set-up, might want to make sure you double check belt alignment and shim as necessary.
I know you ran blowers previously, but I had belt alignment issues when I first got mine started. I borrowed a gates laser alignment tool (sell for $85 on rockauto.com) and lined up my pulley after moving my bracket towards the front of the car using washers behind the bracket.
Since you are making your own set-up, might want to make sure you double check belt alignment and shim as necessary.
#56
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Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
I know you ran blowers previously, but I had belt alignment issues when I first got mine started. I borrowed a gates laser alignment tool (sell for $85 on rockauto.com) and lined up my pulley after moving my bracket towards the front of the car using washers behind the bracket.
Since you are making your own set-up, might want to make sure you double check belt alignment and shim as necessary.
Since you are making your own set-up, might want to make sure you double check belt alignment and shim as necessary.
I have to make a new 6 rib tensioner too for the accessories.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
J trim vs T76
-- Joe
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Intake is all milled. Now I need to just gasket match it.
-- Joe
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Yup. Intake is gasket matched, and painted. My SFI balancer should be in tomorrow. I'll put that on, set TDC then put the intake back on and set the dizzy.
I still have a lot to do. Exhaust, blower bracket, etc.
Oh, I sold the hydroboost and converted to manual brakes. Gotta bleed the brakes.
Hopefully I can get it done before it snows. I need to get one of the corvettes on the lift.
-- Joe
I still have a lot to do. Exhaust, blower bracket, etc.
Oh, I sold the hydroboost and converted to manual brakes. Gotta bleed the brakes.
Hopefully I can get it done before it snows. I need to get one of the corvettes on the lift.
-- Joe
#63
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Coming along fast, not even officially Winter and you'll have most of it done by then, that is great news. How is the clearance with that intake using the stock hood? You have me considering one for my GTA, came out really good...
Originally Posted by anesthes
Yup. Intake is gasket matched, and painted. My SFI balancer should be in tomorrow. I'll put that on, set TDC then put the intake back on and set the dizzy.
I still have a lot to do. Exhaust, blower bracket, etc.
Oh, I sold the hydroboost and converted to manual brakes. Gotta bleed the brakes.
Hopefully I can get it done before it snows. I need to get one of the corvettes on the lift.
-- Joe
I still have a lot to do. Exhaust, blower bracket, etc.
Oh, I sold the hydroboost and converted to manual brakes. Gotta bleed the brakes.
Hopefully I can get it done before it snows. I need to get one of the corvettes on the lift.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
I'm not sure what the deal is with these intakes. I've not seen one for sale new in nearly a year.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Making progress.
New SFI balancer is on.
I checked port alignment on the intake manifold. Looks good with a 1206 gasket. Is there a spec for china wall to intake clearance? I'm curious if I should use the 1206 or 1266.
Next I mocked up the blower. Using a 1 5/8" crank pulley spacer, the blower is spaced out 3 3/4" from the head. As you can see in the pictures it's close to the valve cover in the rear.
The other spacers Vortech sells is a 3 1/4", and 3 5/8". Those may be a little too big.
The next problem, the crank pulley is not hub centric, and the holes are a little larger than 3/8" so the pulley has some walk to it..
-- Joe
New SFI balancer is on.
I checked port alignment on the intake manifold. Looks good with a 1206 gasket. Is there a spec for china wall to intake clearance? I'm curious if I should use the 1206 or 1266.
Next I mocked up the blower. Using a 1 5/8" crank pulley spacer, the blower is spaced out 3 3/4" from the head. As you can see in the pictures it's close to the valve cover in the rear.
The other spacers Vortech sells is a 3 1/4", and 3 5/8". Those may be a little too big.
The next problem, the crank pulley is not hub centric, and the holes are a little larger than 3/8" so the pulley has some walk to it..
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
#69
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
i made my own spacer, and it made everything hub centric. if you are running ribbed belts you will pretty much have to make your own spacer or be able to move the bracket to an exact amount. like within .050" or so, imo. a cog setup will let the belt float on either the lower or all the other pulleys, so it doesnt need to be quite so exact.
Last edited by DIGGLER; 11-14-2015 at 08:19 AM.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
i made my own spacer, and it made everything hub centric. if you are running ribbed belts you will pretty much have to make your own spacer or be able to move the bracket to an exact amount. like within .050" or so, imo. a cog setup will let the belt float on either the lower or all the other pulleys, so it doesnt need to be quite so exact.
I've got to do some stuff today, but if I have time tonight I'll mock it up some more in the shop. I can order a 2" spacer, or the other two vortech sizes. The problem is, the farther forward the head unit goes the lower I need it to go for hood clearance. If it goes lower, the air filter has a risk of running into the headers. The shock tower really screws us with big blowers.
-- Joe
#71
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Figures they stop selling them when I am ready to get one. I'd like to switch to a fiberglass 2" cowl hood this winter myself, as I already sold the twin turbo hood I had. Wasn't too crazy about it. Lot of credit to you Joe, your project is coming along nicely. I didn't even buy the Procharger, still torn between an F1 and F2, meanwhile you're halfway done already. Looking forward to the intake plumbing, wanna see what you come up with because it looks like it will be tricky with that big of a blower...
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Had a little time tonight to tinker in the shop. So I went with the 1206 gaskets as the 1266 raised the port too high.
I checked alignment as I torqued them down, and the ports match up really good with the 1206. Luckily with this intake I can look down into each runner and see what's going on.
So the top end is all bolted up, dizzy dropped in at TDC. I ordered a 2" crank spacer which should work for the blower.
I was going to install the water pump, but I think the P/s pump bracket I'm gonna use will bolt to it so I held off. Running short water pump + vette accessories on driver side.
I should probably concentrate on the exhaust.
-- Joe
I checked alignment as I torqued them down, and the ports match up really good with the 1206. Luckily with this intake I can look down into each runner and see what's going on.
So the top end is all bolted up, dizzy dropped in at TDC. I ordered a 2" crank spacer which should work for the blower.
I was going to install the water pump, but I think the P/s pump bracket I'm gonna use will bolt to it so I held off. Running short water pump + vette accessories on driver side.
I should probably concentrate on the exhaust.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Ok. So we're going with 3 5/8" spacer on the pulley.
That puts the crank pulley face at 9 3/8" from the head surface
My 1/4" blower bracket is 4 1/4" away from the blower pulley, so we need to make a mounting bracket that is 5 1/8".
So What I'll probably do is make a 1/4" thick plate to bolt to the head, then use some 1" round stock to space another 1/4" plate. That can either bolt to the backside of the mounting bracket, or I can weld them together..
-- Joe
That puts the crank pulley face at 9 3/8" from the head surface
My 1/4" blower bracket is 4 1/4" away from the blower pulley, so we need to make a mounting bracket that is 5 1/8".
So What I'll probably do is make a 1/4" thick plate to bolt to the head, then use some 1" round stock to space another 1/4" plate. That can either bolt to the backside of the mounting bracket, or I can weld them together..
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
That is a big bastard you got there, way bigger than my t-trim.
Just a tip, doing searches i found that you should wrap your headers if you are going to run a filter off the blower. A search on yellowbullet turned up a post by steve morris that said they dyno a motor first, then wrap the header on the side of the blower intake with header wrap and consistently gain 30-40 hp on the next pull with the header wrap in place. I just wrapped mine and picked up a dei header shield to go on top of it to keep the incoming air cooler.
Just a tip, doing searches i found that you should wrap your headers if you are going to run a filter off the blower. A search on yellowbullet turned up a post by steve morris that said they dyno a motor first, then wrap the header on the side of the blower intake with header wrap and consistently gain 30-40 hp on the next pull with the header wrap in place. I just wrapped mine and picked up a dei header shield to go on top of it to keep the incoming air cooler.
#78
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
That is a big bastard you got there, way bigger than my t-trim.
Just a tip, doing searches i found that you should wrap your headers if you are going to run a filter off the blower. A search on yellowbullet turned up a post by steve morris that said they dyno a motor first, then wrap the header on the side of the blower intake with header wrap and consistently gain 30-40 hp on the next pull with the header wrap in place. I just wrapped mine and picked up a dei header shield to go on top of it to keep the incoming air cooler.
Just a tip, doing searches i found that you should wrap your headers if you are going to run a filter off the blower. A search on yellowbullet turned up a post by steve morris that said they dyno a motor first, then wrap the header on the side of the blower intake with header wrap and consistently gain 30-40 hp on the next pull with the header wrap in place. I just wrapped mine and picked up a dei header shield to go on top of it to keep the incoming air cooler.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
My chinese spacer didn't work out. The center is too large for me to index it on my lathe.
So I ordered an actual vortech spacer.
Anyway, as for the heat. Yup! When I had the s-trim I had the same problem. Where I'm building my own mount, I'm hoping I can at least get it somewhat away from the exhaust. My plan is to fab an insulated pipe to draw air from the fender (behind the shock tower).
Remember I'm doing passenger side mount, so I don't have brake stuff in the way.
-- Joe
So I ordered an actual vortech spacer.
Anyway, as for the heat. Yup! When I had the s-trim I had the same problem. Where I'm building my own mount, I'm hoping I can at least get it somewhat away from the exhaust. My plan is to fab an insulated pipe to draw air from the fender (behind the shock tower).
Remember I'm doing passenger side mount, so I don't have brake stuff in the way.
-- Joe
#80
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Looks good. My torqstorm supercharger should be here tmrw and I'm putting it on the same side as you. I heard about the header heat being a problem as well. Thinking of doing what you guys talked about. Also thought about coating my headers but that's like $250.
#81
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
the problem with the 4th gen is the inner fender/shock mount leans waaay in towards the engine compared to a 3rd gen. 3rd gens have a ton more room in that area which will be helpful. in the setup i posted above, i ran the blower on drivers side to maintain the power steering pump position/lines mainly. i didnt see enough of a benefit to run the blower on the pass. side in that car.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Are you or Joe going to run a blower brace or a brace from the headunit to the shock tower to put some tension on the bracket to stop the headunit from flexing? I am not sure what is the limit before you need to brace the headunit?
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
That's a thick a$$ bracket, I wouldn't expect that blower to move at all.
Are you or Joe going to run a blower brace or a brace from the headunit to the shock tower to put some tension on the bracket to stop the headunit from flexing? I am not sure what is the limit before you need to brace the headunit?
Are you or Joe going to run a blower brace or a brace from the headunit to the shock tower to put some tension on the bracket to stop the headunit from flexing? I am not sure what is the limit before you need to brace the headunit?
My bracket adapter is 3/8" plate and 3/4" round stock spacers. Welded. Then the blower bracket/plate bolts to that.
I'm just waiting on the vortech spacer so I know my distance from the head. Then I'll turn down the 3/4" stock to size on my lathe, clamp it, and weld it all up. Then stick it in the mill and face it flat.
-- Joe
#84
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
That's a thick a$$ bracket, I wouldn't expect that blower to move at all.
Are you or Joe going to run a blower brace or a brace from the headunit to the shock tower to put some tension on the bracket to stop the headunit from flexing? I am not sure what is the limit before you need to brace the headunit?
Are you or Joe going to run a blower brace or a brace from the headunit to the shock tower to put some tension on the bracket to stop the headunit from flexing? I am not sure what is the limit before you need to brace the headunit?
The nmra guys running the ysi always use a 1/2" blower plate, so that's what I did. I wanted it to keep the belts on the pulleys as much as possible.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
The blower has two bolt patterns to run a dual bracket. My plan is to mount it to the 3/8" steel plate I have now, then run another plate over the top. I figure two 3/8" plates with spacers shouldn't flex.
My bracket adapter is 3/8" plate and 3/4" round stock spacers. Welded. Then the blower bracket/plate bolts to that.
I'm just waiting on the vortech spacer so I know my distance from the head. Then I'll turn down the 3/4" stock to size on my lathe, clamp it, and weld it all up. Then stick it in the mill and face it flat.
-- Joe
My bracket adapter is 3/8" plate and 3/4" round stock spacers. Welded. Then the blower bracket/plate bolts to that.
I'm just waiting on the vortech spacer so I know my distance from the head. Then I'll turn down the 3/4" stock to size on my lathe, clamp it, and weld it all up. Then stick it in the mill and face it flat.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Had some free time with the rain and removed the stock k-member. Broke one of the bolts so I'll have to get that out, but anyway it took about 2 hours to get the stock one out. Getting the spohn tubular one back in should be quick.
Somewhat tempted to redo the front lines while I'm there.
-- Joe
Somewhat tempted to redo the front lines while I'm there.
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
The distance between the tops of the spring perch and the pocket on the control arms are different on the Spohn kmember. (less distance). By a LOT. I hope this doesn't drop the ride height.
Also, the steering linkage hits the k-member. I unbolted it again and tried to pry it back but it's firmly against the frame.
Either Spohn re-engineered it better, or he buys his tape measures at harbor freight.. Not sure which.
If I flip the centerlink around will it totally goof my steering geometry? That's probably a question for twin_turbo, he's good at that stuff.
Anyway, I've got both springs compressed as far as my tool will go and I'm still prying them into place with a bar. (whacked myself twice in the face).
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Yes, flipping the centerlink around will angle the tie rods and as such make the angle even larger when syeering causing a change in the geometry (the rate at which the wheel rotates), the best way is to get some offset tie rod ends. The way the tie rod routes is not a factor, jsut the vector line betwen the 2 tie rod ends.
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
-- Joe
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Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Yes, flipping the centerlink around will angle the tie rods and as such make the angle even larger when syeering causing a change in the geometry (the rate at which the wheel rotates), the best way is to get some offset tie rod ends. The way the tie rod routes is not a factor, jsut the vector line betwen the 2 tie rod ends.
Offset on the inners, so if I flip the center link around it puts the line back inward ?
-- Joe
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Location: SALEM, NH
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
So, after looking at a bunch of pictures I think I see where the problem is.
Everyone having problems has inner tie rods with the grease fitting in the REAR and large rear cap.
The guys not having problems have the grease fitting 90* to the joint, and the joint itself is thinner.
Maybe just a different set of inner tie rods will fix the problem.
Look at this picture. Even compared to a Moog with the grease fitting at 90*, the spohn unit is slim.
Wtf.
-- Joe
Everyone having problems has inner tie rods with the grease fitting in the REAR and large rear cap.
The guys not having problems have the grease fitting 90* to the joint, and the joint itself is thinner.
Maybe just a different set of inner tie rods will fix the problem.
Look at this picture. Even compared to a Moog with the grease fitting at 90*, the spohn unit is slim.
Wtf.
-- Joe
Last edited by anesthes; 11-29-2015 at 07:24 PM.
#95
TGO Supporter/Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: SALEM, NH
Posts: 11,743
Likes: 0
Received 89 Likes
on
75 Posts
Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
-- Joe
#97
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Ouch,
this is why I dont buy spohn parts!
Side note is that your Kmember looks alot like my racecraft one and I didn't have any issues with the tie rods. I do remember that I couldnt get them in without turning the steering to a locked out position to get them bolted in. Then they cleared just fine.
If I ever need to replace my moly Kmember Id prob go with the UMI as their stuff is top knotch. I was torn between the UMI and the Racecraft but I got the racecraft for less than the new UMI and it was brand new so I took the opportunity.
this is why I dont buy spohn parts!
Side note is that your Kmember looks alot like my racecraft one and I didn't have any issues with the tie rods. I do remember that I couldnt get them in without turning the steering to a locked out position to get them bolted in. Then they cleared just fine.
If I ever need to replace my moly Kmember Id prob go with the UMI as their stuff is top knotch. I was torn between the UMI and the Racecraft but I got the racecraft for less than the new UMI and it was brand new so I took the opportunity.
#98
TGO Supporter/Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: SALEM, NH
Posts: 11,743
Likes: 0
Received 89 Likes
on
75 Posts
Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Ouch,
this is why I dont buy spohn parts!
Side note is that your Kmember looks alot like my racecraft one and I didn't have any issues with the tie rods. I do remember that I couldnt get them in without turning the steering to a locked out position to get them bolted in. Then they cleared just fine.
If I ever need to replace my moly Kmember Id prob go with the UMI as their stuff is top knotch. I was torn between the UMI and the Racecraft but I got the racecraft for less than the new UMI and it was brand new so I took the opportunity.
this is why I dont buy spohn parts!
Side note is that your Kmember looks alot like my racecraft one and I didn't have any issues with the tie rods. I do remember that I couldnt get them in without turning the steering to a locked out position to get them bolted in. Then they cleared just fine.
If I ever need to replace my moly Kmember Id prob go with the UMI as their stuff is top knotch. I was torn between the UMI and the Racecraft but I got the racecraft for less than the new UMI and it was brand new so I took the opportunity.
I'm replacing the brake lines too. Now the question is, do I keep my prop valve or put a T for the front and run a adjustable valve for the rear.. (manual brakes, 4 wheel disc).
-- Joe
#99
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Hmmm, I don't run manual brakes but I Tee'd the front (added a hurst roll control) and run a SSBC adjustable prop valve for the rears. Honestly in a performance vehicle I don't see the point in the stock prop valve. I also have 13" BAER brakes up front, hydroboost and 11.5" rear disks in the rear. And mine sees 99.5% street duty going to shows etc. I don't have any issues… however I can lock up the front brakes pretty easily lol.
I would do it… but thats just me. And I would bend my own lines in stainless or get that new copper alloy tubing that is sooooo much nicer. Bends so easy, fairs easy and never rusts. I did mine in Stainless and it was a PITA, I use the alloy stuff now and love it.
I would do it… but thats just me. And I would bend my own lines in stainless or get that new copper alloy tubing that is sooooo much nicer. Bends so easy, fairs easy and never rusts. I did mine in Stainless and it was a PITA, I use the alloy stuff now and love it.
#100
TGO Supporter/Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: SALEM, NH
Posts: 11,743
Likes: 0
Received 89 Likes
on
75 Posts
Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Vortech J Trim build Winter 2015/2016
Hmmm, I don't run manual brakes but I Tee'd the front (added a hurst roll control) and run a SSBC adjustable prop valve for the rears. Honestly in a performance vehicle I don't see the point in the stock prop valve. I also have 13" BAER brakes up front, hydroboost and 11.5" rear disks in the rear. And mine sees 99.5% street duty going to shows etc. I don't have any issues… however I can lock up the front brakes pretty easily lol.
I would do it… but thats just me. And I would bend my own lines in stainless or get that new copper alloy tubing that is sooooo much nicer. Bends so easy, fairs easy and never rusts. I did mine in Stainless and it was a PITA, I use the alloy stuff now and love it.
I would do it… but thats just me. And I would bend my own lines in stainless or get that new copper alloy tubing that is sooooo much nicer. Bends so easy, fairs easy and never rusts. I did mine in Stainless and it was a PITA, I use the alloy stuff now and love it.
Ok I ordered an adjustable prop valve.
It's setup for 3/16" line. I shouldn't have an issue replacing the rear 1/4" line with 3/16" I don't think ? I have enough metric adapters to cover the flex hose in the rear, and the two fronts.
-- Joe