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u can even use one of these
200amp cont 300amp intermitant
I'd still have the issue of the battery cable is too small. Should be a 0, or 1 at minimum. The 'kit' I have came off a track only car, probably just enough to start it.
I was thinking of mounting the battery sideways and using an 'H' style hold down and two 3/8" rods, although if I could weld up a factory style clamp that would make me happier.
Curious Joe, how difficult would it have been to fabricate a bracket to be able to mount the blower with the inlet side facing forward? Also, what would you recommend for removing quite a few coats of paint on a set of runners? Was going to use some diesel fuel, but if there is an easier method though...
Curious Joe, how difficult would it have been to fabricate a bracket to be able to mount the blower with the inlet side facing forward? Also, what would you recommend for removing quite a few coats of paint on a set of runners? Was going to use some diesel fuel, but if there is an easier method though...
Wouldn't have fit.
The only ones I've seen mounted backwards were counter clock wise on LT1 C4's, and they used the accessory drive belt.
As far as the runners go, I'd just media blast them. You don't have a cabinet?
I see what you mean, that blower is freaking huge. Would have required a smaller radiator, or running the current one at an angle like Dave did. Was a lot simpler the way you did it. No cabinet, had an older one that was taking up space and it looked horrible in the yard, sold it to a buddy for twenty five bucks. I'm contemplating what I am going to do with the runners, either strip them myself then polish them, or send them out to be chromed along with the plenum and throttle body. Would rather just go with the former...
Why not create a filter box that mounts to the hood and then seals against the top of the motor like a box or tube with a seal so it seals when you close the hood.
Why not create a filter box that mounts to the hood and then seals against the top of the motor like a box or tube with a seal so it seals when you close the hood.
That's how the old crossfire air boxes were, but I'm going to do something more like the SLP/SS air box.
I have a C4 box I was thinking of modifying. Dimensionally it should work out pretty good.
I gotta make some radiator hold downs anyway this week, so I'll bend up some brackets on my metal brake to hold the air filter box and then I've got some 4' oval tubing I can make a transition from round to oval, or just use a silicone transition.
Curious Joe, how difficult would it have been to fabricate a bracket to be able to mount the blower with the inlet side facing forward? Also, what would you recommend for removing quite a few coats of paint on a set of runners? Was going to use some diesel fuel, but if there is an easier method though...
Aircraft remover... Paint will bubble off in minutes. Spray it off with a power washer and clean it good. That **** will eat ur skin so use thick gloves and be careful. It's sold at autozone/advance. I've used it to strip fenders etc.
Aircraft remover... Paint will bubble off in minutes. Spray it off with a power washer and clean it good. That **** will eat ur skin so use thick gloves and be careful. It's sold at autozone/advance. I've used it to strip fenders etc.
I used it once to remove factory finish from a corvette bumper cover and it was a disaster. It pulled some of the paint, turned the rest into a gooey mess that wouldn't come off, but was soft enough that it gummed up sandpaper and took 3 times as long to strip the bumper.
Chemical strippers have their place, but they don't remove everything.
If stuff doesn't fit in my cabinet, the place down the street has a 12x24 booth. I actually had them media blast my formula in 2013.
Aircraft remover... Paint will bubble off in minutes. Spray it off with a power washer and clean it good. That **** will eat ur skin so use thick gloves and be careful. It's sold at autozone/advance. I've used it to strip fenders etc.
I just might try it. Had the runners under a wire wheel last night and it took forever just to do a two inch radius. Is that aircraft remover pasty, or a very thin liquid?
I just might try it. Had the runners under a wire wheel last night and it took forever just to do a two inch radius. Is that aircraft remover pasty, or a very thin liquid?
Its like a jelly. I use a cheap brush and slap it on, let it sit for a min and you'll see the paint bubble quickly. The stuff needs to stay wet, so dont let it dry or it will gum up and do what Joe said. so apply a few coats a min or so apart or when it looks to start drying. Fumes are strong as well. While its wet after sitting a few min (u'll see as you apply other coats that the paint will be coming off as you brush new coats on) then hit it with a power washer (not a regular hose) and see how it looks. Worst case is it doesnt get everything and you need to take it to get blasted. remember to really wash it to get the residue off.
Rustoleum/klean strip both make it and its sold just about everywere, homed depot, part stores etc.
I dont have a blaster/cabinet or any of that crap otherwise that would be the best bet.
paint stripper works best with a lil heat , so do it outside were the sun can shine directly on the runners , it also helps if u scuff the surface upa lil bit with sandpaper
i stipped my camaro with chemical stripper it worked great , only thing i didnt use it on was the bumper covers and gfx , the paint peeled off in strips with a razor blade
So I ended up using a reproduction early 2nd gen battery tray. Bolted it in to move the battery sideways, giving room for the intercooler piping. It actually worked out and all fits under the hood.
When my C4 airbox shows up I can start figuring out if I can fabricate that as a CAI.
Nicely done. My battery is moved over as well I couldn't use the OE hold down. Got a part number for that? Does it hold a 75 series battery?
Yeah I have a 75 series battery in it right now.
Summit: GMK-4021-300-70
I was tinkering with the intake plumbing again and found that I can actually shut the hood running the filter like this, I just need to get a 45* to replace the blue one:
that looks like it would work real good. nice gradual radius.... i wish the 4th gen ive been working on had that much room over the blower. we are stuck pulling air off the header.
that looks like it would work real good. nice gradual radius.... i wish the 4th gen ive been working on had that much room over the blower. we are stuck pulling air off the header.
I'v had a few 4th gens over the years. I sold my '98 Convertible last summer to my farrier cuz I never drove it, and hated working on it for that exact reason. Motor was stuffed so far back.
I've got all the weatherstrip done. Now I just need to put the dynamat down and put the new carpet in, door panels, and all the lame tiresome stuff.
Mechanically it should be good. I think I've got the brakes functional now with a 4:1 rod angle on the master, which hopefully will be enough travel.
You could prob get a J or U bend of SS or steel from summit for cheap! Aluminum stuff is annoying. 3" stuff is dirt cheap, 3.5" is hard to find but $$ and I'm sure 4" is worse.
You might even be able to get a silicone coupler for cheaper than aluminum.
I was reading that bends/length on the inlet will create a restriction and therefore lower max boost. Ditching the bends and running a stub filter/screen will net the most boost. But its a cool trick to run the smallest pulley but restrict the inlet to limit max boost but create boost quicker. Might be interesting to see what your max boost is with the bends vs without (when you get it done of course). 4" is pretty large though... mine is only 3.5".
You could prob get a J or U bend of SS or steel from summit for cheap! Aluminum stuff is annoying. 3" stuff is dirt cheap, 3.5" is hard to find but $$ and I'm sure 4" is worse.
You might even be able to get a silicone coupler for cheaper than aluminum.
I was reading that bends/length on the inlet will create a restriction and therefore lower max boost. Ditching the bends and running a stub filter/screen will net the most boost. But its a cool trick to run the smallest pulley but restrict the inlet to limit max boost but create boost quicker. Might be interesting to see what your max boost is with the bends vs without (when you get it done of course). 4" is pretty large though... mine is only 3.5".
I'm not that worried about restricting boost, this blower will make more power than the block can handle. I'm more concerned with high IAT temps and detonation. I run pump gas.
The 180* isn't straight, It turns a little bit and then sweeps back with the 45. I had to do that to get it to fit under the portion of the hood that raises up, so no off the shelf bends will do it.
I think it will be fine. Doesn't look pretty, but neither does the rest of the build. I'm running a 3.33"/6" pulley combo right now so it will probably only make about 8lbs of boost. It's running about 1/2 it's rated impeller speed. I'm curious to see how it runs like that.
Remember, I don't have a roll bar so if I bring it to the track the fastest I can run is like 11.49.
Joe are you freaking kidding me, that looks killer, but I would slap that RA1 hood on there and get that air box that goes with it, or make one that allows for a 4-5" orifice, and route that SC inlet straight to the top of the radiator (on an angle, not colliding into the TB)...
Joe are you freaking kidding me, that looks killer, but I would slap that RA1 hood on there and get that air box that goes with it, or make one that allows for a 4-5" orifice, and route that SC inlet straight to the top of the radiator (on an angle, not colliding into the TB)...
If I had a singleplane intake that would work. I tried fitting a box but I can't with the miniram.
The RA1 hood is on the car. I just gotta paint the hood.
Hopefully I'll have some time in the coming weeks to finish the interior and drive the car a little. I've gotta spend a week in the hospital in Nov for a procedure and if I survive that hopefully I can drive the car until Thanksgiving or so unless we get early snowfall.
Drove the car a little today. I got the IAC working properly now thanks to a new stepper circuit.
The brakes work, but I still can't lock them up. I can stop comfortably. This is a 4:1 pedal ratio on the 24MM master and 2.75" front calipers. I dunno. It might be right but. I should be able to lock them up I'd think.
So my throttle body (58MM BBK) has a big vac leak. I noticed I had a whistle. Sprayed some brake cleaner while it was running and it disturbed my idle big time. wtf.
Otherwise.. The car is kinda hard to drive. From a stop, no matter how little throttle I give it the tires break loose. Kinda not too thrilled about that. I don't know if it's cuz my gear ratio is soo high or what but.. It's not very streetable right now.
Don't forget it is also a lot cooler out now and tires will break free more easily. I had that happen a lot last night when I took my car out for a ride. I'm also running on a safe tune until the clutch is broken is as well.
Sorry to hear about your woes. Brakes are a tough thing not to have. I personally think they should lock up when you want them too. Not sure about your setup and the specifics but with my stock master and no prop valve , SSBC adjustable for the rears I locked mine up coming to a quick stop the other day at a light. But I have 13" Baer fronts and 11.5 stock ford out back.
I agree with the cold weather, huge changes from 20* with my sumotomo high performance summers which are brand new. 3-4 weeks ago it was much harder to break them loose but now it's way to easy lol. But that also means your braking should also lock them up easier with the cool air.
What's your rear gear ratio? Poweradders you really shouldn't be lower than 3.55 area. I run 3.55 and I wouldn't mind stepping down to a 3.23ish or even a 3.08. Too tall a gear in the back with boost = lots of smoke.
Sorry to hear about your woes. Brakes are a tough thing not to have. I personally think they should lock up when you want them too. Not sure about your setup and the specifics but with my stock master and no prop valve , SSBC adjustable for the rears I locked mine up coming to a quick stop the other day at a light. But I have 13" Baer fronts and 11.5 stock ford out back.
I agree with the cold weather, huge changes from 20* with my sumotomo high performance summers which are brand new. 3-4 weeks ago it was much harder to break them loose but now it's way to easy lol. But that also means your braking should also lock them up easier with the cool air.
What's your rear gear ratio? Poweradders you really shouldn't be lower than 3.55 area. I run 3.55 and I wouldn't mind stepping down to a 3.23ish or even a 3.08. Too tall a gear in the back with boost = lots of smoke.
rear end is 3.42. TH350 transmission.
I'm actually having a huge issue right now with the throttle body and I think that is part of the problem. I've got an epic vac leak. Seems to be the throttle shaft. Was diagnosing it tonight.
Another problem I'm having, which is rather odd. #7 and #6 primaries are glowing at idle. It's batch fire so it can't be an ECM problem or it would happen on every primary. I don't know if its wacky injector or the miniram or what.
Sorry to hear about your woes. Brakes are a tough thing not to have. I personally think they should lock up when you want them too. Not sure about your setup and the specifics but with my stock master and no prop valve , SSBC adjustable for the rears I locked mine up coming to a quick stop the other day at a light. But I have 13" Baer fronts and 11.5 stock ford out back.
I agree with the cold weather, huge changes from 20* with my sumotomo high performance summers which are brand new. 3-4 weeks ago it was much harder to break them loose but now it's way to easy lol. But that also means your braking should also lock them up easier with the cool air.
What's your rear gear ratio? Poweradders you really shouldn't be lower than 3.55 area. I run 3.55 and I wouldn't mind stepping down to a 3.23ish or even a 3.08. Too tall a gear in the back with boost = lots of smoke.
I run 3.23s and on a hot day even In third at 70 mph I can still break loose for over 200 feet. I was amazed at how the car felt.
I run 3.23s and on a hot day even In third at 70 mph I can still break loose for over 200 feet. I was amazed at how the car felt.
I know what you are saying, but they shouldn't be breaking loose at 10% throttle, which is what was happening. However, looking at the log I think my throttle body vac leak played a part:
Honestly I don't know what the heck happened here. TPS increased yet RPM's decreased, unless that was the converter grabbing. It definitely had load as it made a pound of boost at 1700 rpm haha.
I'm going to swap the injectors and see if I cant find the throttle body.
So. Pancherj shipped me a 58MM bbk throttle body with sensors to replace the one I had vac leaks on. He's the man!
I installed some new injectors Saturday. I had intended on getting the car running saturday and rule out a injector or valve issue, but my buddy Mike offered me a bunch of cash for both of my C3 vettes, and the deal relied on my bringing them to his place 40 miles north so that took up most of my day.
The good news is, I've only got 1 car now so it gets 100% of my attention, so hopefully this weekend I can resolve the engine and braking system issues.
Thanks again to Pancherj, that was wicked cool of you! I owe you
So. I set the new injector constant and fired it up. Idle was quite high with low IAC duty cycle, so I adjusted the throttle blades.
Primary started glowing again, but also the #5. So I'm like wtf.
So I played with the VE table some more, and now I've got a stable idle, and now glowing.
Played some more, and I can get the whole back half of the motor glowing.
This is obviously proof of the uneven air distribution on the miniram intake.
I had this same problem on a C4 back in 2007/2008, and I thought part of it was the crappy '730 ECM. I think these intakes are just a pita.
Anyhow, I've got it idling decent, 48 or so KPA which is the most vac I've ever seen, 26 degrees advance at idle, and between 12.0-13.5 (afr fluxuates all over the place). No glowing.
Once I re-do the master/booster I'll take it for a drive.
The only thing I don't like, is how hot stuff is around my headers.
For example, my CTS in the head is burried at the highest reading it will go on the dash.
The ECU reads around 176 degrees.
The front of the head measures like 146 on the IR gun.
The plug boots measure 346!!
The head bolts measure around 240.
It seems like this is just radiant heat from the headers, but it seems very high. I can't get a reading higher than 380 or so off the headers, but I think the shiny finish is goofing up the IR gun.
So. I set the new injector constant and fired it up. Idle was quite high with low IAC duty cycle, so I adjusted the throttle blades.
Primary started glowing again, but also the #5. So I'm like wtf.
So I played with the VE table some more, and now I've got a stable idle, and now glowing.
Played some more, and I can get the whole back half of the motor glowing.
This is obviously proof of the uneven air distribution on the miniram intake.
I had this same problem on a C4 back in 2007/2008, and I thought part of it was the crappy '730 ECM. I think these intakes are just a pita.
Anyhow, I've got it idling decent, 48 or so KPA which is the most vac I've ever seen, 26 degrees advance at idle, and between 12.0-13.5 (afr fluxuates all over the place). No glowing.
Once I re-do the master/booster I'll take it for a drive.
The only thing I don't like, is how hot stuff is around my headers.
For example, my CTS in the head is burried at the highest reading it will go on the dash.
The ECU reads around 176 degrees.
The front of the head measures like 146 on the IR gun.
The plug boots measure 346!!
The head bolts measure around 240.
It seems like this is just radiant heat from the headers, but it seems very high. I can't get a reading higher than 380 or so off the headers, but I think the shiny finish is goofing up the IR gun.
-- Joe
the car i am working on right now is around 700 degrees on the headers measured with my ir gun. coolant temp sender for the dash is in the drivers side head, and it reads correctly on the dash at around 160 or whatever.
the car i am working on right now is around 700 degrees on the headers measured with my ir gun. coolant temp sender for the dash is in the drivers side head, and it reads correctly on the dash at around 160 or whatever.
Hrmm.. That's interesting.
I have a ground issue with my dash, I wonder if that is causing a high reading.
Man.... i would be using some choice words if I was you lol. This thing is riddled with gremlins lol, glad to see you not getting discouraged.
Shinny is not good for IR gun, Shoot a primary with flat black 2000* temp and let it cure, then shoot that with the IR gun. It needs a matt surface to get an accurate temp. I always shoot my silicone couplers for temp readings vs the actual charge pipe. With all that new money you got from selling those 2 vettes you should spent $200 and get the headers coated. Made a huge difference on a set I had done. Header wrap (DEI titanium lava wrap) works very well for cheaper but I hated the "hair" or how it got once it was damaged etc. then it just made a mess.
TPIS... HA! Overpriced and was never a fan. I think I bought their TPI handbook back in the day and one of their TB smoother out thingies. I would never run one of their intakes esp bc this is not the first time I've heard of issues.
Both my engine temp sensors are in the head like 1/4" from the header flange on my 5.3 and one is burried at the back of the engine and gets the full heat of the header and it still reads normal temps. The front driver side is the ECM engine temp and it reads the same as the speedhut sensor at the back pass head for my gauge.
Took the car out for a drive. Got the sub 4,000 RPM fuel map dialed in, and AE.
Car is fast, no traction.
I still need to install the carpet, door panels, trim, etc and paint the mirrors/wing/aftermarket hood.
I would have worked on it more today, but I had my C4 on the lift at my cousins and as I needed to do ball joints, egr delete, air injection delete, and find a coolant leak (freeze plug). I can't put both cars in my shop right now cuz I can't open the hood of the vette while the firebird is on the lift, and I can't put the vette on the lift over the firebird cuz it has a coolant leak.
I was thinking of trading my T-trim in for a quiet drive Vortech, but after driving the car I can't hear the blower over the exhaust. I can't hear anything over the exhaust. Car is a little loud for my taste.. Gonna have to figure out a way to quiet it down. The C4 is wisper quiet.
joe when u had the turbo setup u were running a tiny lil battery werent ya ?
tall tim is almost done installing that twin turbo kit he got from me but is out of room for a battery, trying to avoid putting it in the trunk
joe when u had the turbo setup u were running a tiny lil battery werent ya ?
tall tim is almost done installing that twin turbo kit he got from me but is out of room for a battery, trying to avoid putting it in the trunk
Yeah, a PC680 with the aluminum mount/bracket. I have it for sale in the classifieds.
09-26-2016, 01:53 PM
