iv got a slight hold up on paint, but ive moved onto the engine , its back on the stand and ill be tearing it down to a long block tommorow , while the engine is out i wanna give the bottom end a good once over and be sure everything is a ok not to mention that fancy one piece flepro gasket i bought for it is leaking , and getting ready to drop in an xe274 cam in it , the xe274 is the best comprimise i could come up with till i can afford to do the roller conversion

ill grab some pics tommorow

 

Time goes by fast, get it done...

I already got my turbo and wastegate purchased as well as the downpipe for the Trailblazer already mocked up, only thing left is injectors, stall speed, front mount, and HP Tuners (unfortunately). Get it done brother...

 

You are up for some real work

 

trail blazer what happened to the gta?

 

It's done, just wrapping up the interior, just had the door panels redone because the leather was pulling, they needed to be restitched. Got the tablet in the pod, full GPS w/voice in audio, Sirius-XM, and my tuning. No more laptop. Took awhile, but I finally got the GTA the way I want it. The Trailblazer is the next project, that 4200 Vortec I6 amazes the hell out of me...

 

That looks pretty cool!

How's the DIS working?

-- Joe

 

i guess my tuneup was softer then i thought it was

might need to pick up a new wideband sensor

 

Yeah thats abit too rich lol

 

yeah my wideband has to be out of whack , it was reading low to mid 11's , first time ive pulled the plugs since i built the damn thing lol

 

Which wideband

 

aem-eugo

 

Lol i have same one. Thought i was reading too rich as of late. Cuz my lc1 last read leaner. Aem read low 10's afr. Lc1 was in 11's but was goin out. So i didnt trust wideband at first and it was breaking up. Now i am trusting it and it seems to be on. Plugs look better

 

my sensor is about 3 years old but not a whole lot of use ill grab a new one and keep the old one for a backup

 

Yea, i have the same one. ARGGGHHH!

I noticed that I wasn't getting consistent readings on back to back runs... and started logging them and found that the output drifted a little after running for a while or if I "rebooted" the car.

I ended up going back and forth with AEM about it till I finally got a hold of an engineer there that basically said that they are designed without any reference so they will drift some. He actually went as far as that he likes the fact that they designed it to be more sensitive on the rich side of stoich (where you use it most for tuning in a performance application) but because of the basic design/tendency to drift he wouldn't use it in his own car.

 

Interesting. Idk what reference he is refering to as its said to be calibrated with some sort of special chip memory so that you never have to free air calibrate like the innovate lc1 and old bosch sensors.

I havent really noticed a whole lot of drift on mine. Not sure how long you need to run it to see a drift in air fuel tho

 

No problems with the 14point7.com WBO2 controllers so far.

 

If it is that hot and rains you will get a lot of humidity. Risk of blotching. For me, the perfect paint day is the hottest. You get the most shine, but sucks to work in. Go with the "coolest" reducer (highest ambient temp grade) you can get.

 

i shot paint in a 95 degree paint booth the other day. seemed to come out fine, but i am by no means a pro painter. we use urethane designed for industrial fleets like trash trucks and stuff. looks pretty nice, but not something for show cars.

 

Didn't look like a golf ball when you were done?

I've painted when it was hot and humid before. Never again.

-- Joe

 

will have the new cam and oil pan gasket on friday
xe 274 is whats going in


finished modifying the passenger side header , just need to finish smoothing the welds and wrap it , need to rewrap the ds as well as one of the clamps let loose


and i might just have to talk my buddie into selling me this to put in the camaro after lmfao


i also told my friend i may have to chain him to his transmission bench till he gets my th350 put together , i dont know if i told u guys but i got a jw ultrabell manual vb/trans brake , and fti 4500 8" stall

the countdown to boneville and the silver state classic is getting kind of short

also i am in need of a set of 2.29 7.5 inch 10 bolt gears if anyone has a set or knows were to get some please let me know , 2:73's witht he 3 speed is not going to cut it at boneville

 

They supposedly calibrate the sensor output to the gauge by laser cutting a resistor in the plug. By reference I mean reference voltage for the circuit, so his claim was that any small variation in voltage or ground will change the output. For a while he swore that I must have a bad ground, so at one point I shot video of it grounded to the ground in the dash, the ecm ground, an engine ground and right to the battery negative and showed that it still floated and how it floated did not depend on the ground or the input voltage.

if you want to see it, if you're using the output of the UGEO with an ECM (mine is plugged into my MegaSquirt) then make a gauge in whatever scanning software showing it's output and compare it to what the actual gauge reads. I found that if I calibrated it so it read correctly one time, when I came back it would be a few decimal points different the next... so now I calibrate any time I'm going to use it for tuning (at least until I put a different gauge in the car).

 

serviced the bottom of the engine and found a surprise when drianing the oil , some black sludge , though its not very thick , im thinking its the moly cam lube







other then that bottom end is A-OK

 

pro magnum lifters, xe274 , adjustable timing set , on the way.

im not 100% sure just yet but since the cam has 4* advance ground in i think im going to install it 2-4* retarded to pick up some power on the top end

shouldnt be an issue with the 4200-4500 8 inch fti converter

 

59 and days and counting to the silver state classic
cars back in the shop and just so much work to do



the check/worklist

#1 install xe274, lifters, timing set ( ordered and shipped ) should be asembled and motor reinstalled by 7/24
#2 prime hood paint car ( pending deliver of another quart of epoxy primer ) 2 week time frame ( will be done inbetween other needed items )
#3 build th350 ( weekend of 8/1) install trans in car the same week
#4 weld in cage 8/6
#5 swap rear gears for a set of 2:41's
#6 start tuning around 8/14
#7 ship car off to ely nv on 8/26-8/27

^^^somewere in that mess of work i need to fab up the new radiator and fan mount as well


thats my loose time frame for this

 

Tuning for open road race stuff is way different than normal drag race lol how you going to do that? Load bearing dyno would be ideal to hold wot load at sustained timeline to get heat in the motor and set your ideal timing

 

it wont be on a dyno( couple hundred miles to the nearest dyno) , plenty of empty highways to nowhere around here.hell i can pull the car out of the shop make a right onto the highway and once i get out 20 miles there isnt a house or person for another 160 ish miles or so. ya just hope u dont break down

orr whats ur thoughts on the cam selection to late to change it now but i thought it was a good pick under the circumstances

its 230/236* @ .050 110lsa

 

Seems ok, rather see alittle wider lsa but it should work

 

choose something a lil tighter on the lsa on purpse witht he twin .9x p-trimed 76's the ex should be pretty free flowing , hoping it aids in bleeding off a lil cyl presure

 

well just so none thinks im slacking this is how u make room infront of a 3rdgen
before

and after

 

well my bike broke so i cant get over to the shop today to work on the car but that turns out to be a good thing.

my parts from summit are expected to be delivered today according to the tracking , cant beat free 1 day shipping woot , tom ill prolly go install the cam plug in the megasquirt and break the motor in right on the engine stand

prolly take me 1 day to weld up the new front end (radiator/fan and intercooler mounts)
and then i can reinstall he engine on the car

 

yup parts just showed up only took 1 day to me with the free shipping from summit

 

glad i deceided to change the cam , i had almost stuck the engine back in the way it was



and the motor as it sits now , even though i have the new xe cam im thinking about ploping down the money on a roller conversion


ill make my disision tonight and either order parts tom or put it back together with the xe

 

You change cams more than my better half changes shoes.

I would stick the new cam in with the time frame you have. Keep an eye out for a complete 5.7 vortec engine for the next go around. Take the stock cam out of that and send it to delta to make it a turbo grind.

What oil (rotella 15w40, wolfheads 10w30, etc) was in it for the break in? Did you add in a bottle of zddp during break in? Did you vary rpm above 2500 rpm for 20 mins on initial startup? I found most failures come from improper revs. Something goes wrong during startup so cranking is extended or coolant prob or something and the cam goes dry and wipes lobes.

 

to much spring pressure for the rockers im using m i found some galling on the rocker pivot ***** ,

 

Going to run weaker springs for the break in this time?

 

the only thing i can do is take the inner springs out again , swapping springs completly would mean new spring seats , retianers and springs

 

Should have built a roller block lol

 

Love them vortec 5.7 for 100 clams.

 

i thnk the cheap *** roller tipped rockers i bought are the culprit here , i found galling and beat up pushrods and pivoit ***** , and i know the top of the motor had plenty of oil

the pushrod/lifter side was perfect , so im pretty sure the rockers were binding up and caused the cam to go flat

i did manage to get my intercooler brackets started and mocked up in the car , acidently drilled the holes 1 inch to far to the passenger side so i need to fix that , but the car is going back together. should have the radiator mount built and installed tongiht

i do not know if i can get this thing back together intime for the silver state , i need to get new pushrods and rockers and the budget is super tight atm well see what happens

 

i also did get the cam installed today , put it in at true straight up i.e 4* retarded , since its ground with 4* of advance

 

Thats the same bullsheet I just went through with a set of comp push rods on my big block with comps roller tipped rockers with stock replacement springs.
One hour of run time. Plenty of oil flow through all pushrods before the engine was ever fired. 10 bad push rods.

 

yeah everything is brand new maybe 75 miles on it , the comp pushrods are trashed , and its not like i can just grab a set from napa either , custom length pushrods in the motor

 

project89, Do you suggest a wide band on a carbed engine too?
Any brands you recommend?

Thanks
-Dan

 

Idk why people think a wideband can only be used on efi engines. It reads air fuel. That can be used in anything that burns a fuel fluid lol

 

Idk why people read something and come up with nonsense. Obviously it reads air/fuel mix. Could put one on my lawnmower if I wanted. Was just wondering if someone who has one would recommend to use one and what brand. My car runs great, plugs are perfect, but it would be nice to know where its at.

 

anything but an lc1 , i do like my aem unit though

 

change of plans fellas , silver state is out this year , with the recent found engine damage i dont have enough time to get it together and tuned. main reason is the car has to be shipped out to ely a few weeks in advance.

instead on that same weekend sept 19th there will be the airport drags down in st george, so this is the even i will be heading to instead , this gives me an extra 14-21 days to get the car back up and running , as i need a lil extra time to buy new rockers and pushrods

the entire mishap is costing me about 650$ in replacement parts

 

putting this here as i know alot of the power adder guys would love to be able to build there own dana 60 for there cars

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...dana-60-a.html

 

sitting and waiting on parts



im going to take the time i have while i wait for the new valve train , to build the dana 60 and do a ew things in the interior of the car.
i also wanna get a milspec bulkhead connector for the engine wiring harness so i can just disconect a single connector at the firewall instead of unplugging everything on the engine

 

Engine damage? How many miles did you put on it since the build, ten...?