Clock your turbo's compressor housing clockwise and watch the hotside of the turbo get closer and closer to the flange on the manifold...

 

F' me.

It actually fits if you run 3/4" spacer and clock it as suggested.

WG's gonna have to go beside the control arm in the crossover. I suspect that would be fine.



-- Joe

 

if ur going to put the wg in the xover use 2 35/38mm gates or a single 50/60mm gate

 

I have a 50MM gate on the shelf. I took it apart and don't quite understand how it works haha, but I'll give it a try. Too many damn ports on it and I couldn't figure out which one gets pressure. Chinese crap never comes with a manual.



-- Joe

 

post a picture, bototm port on wastegate is the rerfrence line the top port is for hooking up cetian boost controllers, if no boost controller is hooked up that top port must stay open to atmosphere

 

Yeah I did the other night. Welding a T4 flange to a stock exhaust manifold is kind of a no-brainer, I made a jig just for that.

Doing the crossover is a bit more difficult. In stock form I can use a driver side manifold but the crossover would be in the front by the fuel pump block off plate. I'd want the crossover to go under the oil pan between #6 and #8 and the casting has almost no material there.

I think a vette ram's horn manifold might be a better starting point since it pretty much has a port where you need it to tie in a crossover.

I think if I used stock TPI manifold's for anything it would be twins, but then everything else gets complicated.

-- Joe

 

I agree that the vette manifold is a better starting point for a single setup, and TPI or most others better for twins. Keep in mind that you are already welding on the manifold for the turbo flange. You could also cut off the drivers outlet and weld onto passenger side as an inlet, or change the angle on the passenger side outlet to more straight down. The nickel rod can be used to weld that also.

Single is a less complicated design and functionally the same as twins. I would stick with the single.

 

I've got some of those special rods my buddy gave me (shipyard welder).

But must I use the stick ? I can't weld this with the mig?? I've got straight argon and c25 in the shop. 308l filler wire won't stick ?

I hate stick welding!


-- Joe

 

Whenever we weld cast iron we use 309ss rod or inconel-82 rod. We primarily TIG weld, and use a 70* to 100* F preheat on the cast iron for a while to get the moisture out. The welding machine you use doesn't matter so much so long an the right technique and filler is used. TIG would be best IMO for what your doing.

(I'm an engineer at a major industrial turbo machinery repair facility FYI)

 

I took two weeks of welding in shop class when I was 14 haha

So I can use my tig? I like the tig. no splatter.

I guess I can practice on the fbody manifold i destroyed last winter trying to weld it.

-- Joe

 

Yes the TIG will work, and the preheat and correct filler rod is critical. It would be a good idea to take a carbide burr and prep the cast area your going to weld also, the porous outer layer of cast iron gets full of oil and dirt that make it weld poorly. If your can get to cleaner material it will help you out.

If it's real low grade cast iron it may weld badly and be very porous no matter what - only one way to find out :torch:

 

I second the TIG with 309 rod, but I pre-heat to higher temperature. Around 500* F.
I prefer the stick rod becauses it keeps me further away from the hot manifold.
The stock cast iron manifolds are a good cast and weld great.

You guys weld turbines at 100* F pre-heat?

 

Yes as a minimum temperature, we preheat with torches so it's often higher but we don't get it scorching hot. In fact the max inter-pass temp is below 500* I don't think you will have problems at a higher temp, but it's not really required

You also have to keep in mind we don't like to weld cast iron and only do it to fill in eroded areas on sealing faces, not for structural repair (not allowed in this industry really). I questioned it also when I first saw the numbers but it works and has for years and years and looks great after machining.

 

You guys ever see these early vette manifolds?

Crossover would be almost exactly where I'd want it. Just need to build a flange on the front somewhere.

Thoughts ?

-- Joe

 

That is what I had in mind with moving the stock passenger side outlet. What is the ID off the exhaust outlet? Not that it matters that much. I think a 2" crossover would support 600HP.

You will be surprised how nice the cast will weld with the nickel or 309 rod. It welds nothing like trying to MIG cast iron. Yeah, I tried the MIG before to see what happens....lol. Heck, I even saw one picture around here where someone tried brazing together a cast turbo manifold......lol.

 

That's a 2" flange where the crossover would be. The rest of the log is quite small from what I understand. It's for a 265 cid, and the ports look like they are around 1" to 1 1/4" oval.

I dunno if it would be something worth buying to weld on.

-- Joe

 

You know I wanted cast manifolds at one point, I found that truck manifolds could work pretty good. Check out the options here:

http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/GMC%...manifold_2.htm

 

Yes, the truck manifolds look like the TPI manifolds. I keep some hanging around. I think anesthes tried it (drivers side manifold) like you posted. The outlet dumps at the engine mount when put on the passenger side.

 

Sold and shipped out the martin manifold. Started a new thread on re-working a stock manifold as that's somewhat a different topic.

-- Joe