Received quite a few PM's the last few weeks asking if I was going to dyno the 305 without the turbo first, then with the turbo afterward. Was originally going to cut to the chase and just slap the turbo on and see what she can do, but perhaps it would be a good idea to dyno the engine naturally aspirated first and see if the cylinder head and Tuned Port Injection porting, as well as the Lunati camshaft made a substantial difference over stock. I'd have to dyno it with the stock exhaust manifolds though (I'll port them), and the vehicle already has a three inch y-pipe, three inch Catco converter, three inch intermediate pipe, and Flowmaster muffler. Think I'm going to do it, as I'm very curious to see what it can do. I put the modified fuel rails to the side because I was going to run them with a twin turbo setup and I needed that drivers side area free from fuel lines, but since I am going single turbo I am just going to run the stock fuel line setup. I guess you can figure out the color scheme I went with...

 

So far, the 416 heads have been worked on extensively. I am not too concerned with the limitation of the stock valve size, my only concern is maximizing its' flow, as less restriction with worked heads at the very same boost pressure used with untouched heads equates to a lot more flow. I need to do a few more things to the heads before I slap them back on, but for now I will post up some of the port work that was done. These pics were before polishing, of course. In the bowls, the valve guides have been removed, and the bowls opened up and smoothed down. Here is a before and after of the bowls...;

 

Quick before and after of the intake ports just after I started working on them, this was before the longer bit with extension was used to get deep inside of there. It's amazing how crappy these heads are in stock form, but they should do well for this project, regardless...

 

This is a picture of the turbo when I was still working on the headers. Pretty nice size for what it is, and it will definitely be put to the test, that's for sure. If this one doesn't cut it then I have T4 Turbonetics that will be replacing it, but I think this one will do well though...

 

Is that a godspeed? What size ya got there?

 

It's pretty damn big, and I've heard that name being applied to it quite a few times. Oh wait, did you mean the turbo lol? It's a T72...

Will be selling the turbo after the first few runs, then switching to the T78...

 

lmao... The turbo. Got me to have a good laugh.

 

Didn't have much time to dedicate to the cylinder heads this weekend, as I started welding the EGR ports shut a little while ago. Gonna finish up the other one in a few, then grind down both of the welds nice and smooth, then eventually flip them and pour molten aluminum in the ports through the exhaust bowl entries. Will save that part, the aluminum, for another time though, as I won't be able to do that today. Also going to drill and tap the head in the picture below for the serpentine bracket in a little bit. Once I get the aluminum in there to fill the EGR ports, the heads are done, and can finally go back on...

 

Cylinder heads are finally wrapped up, and they will be put back onto the short block as soon as I get the chance, just need to chase the threads and clean the bolts to get an accurate torque reading, as well as get some more copper spray for the MLS head gaskets. The TPI plenum was treated to the same siamesed treatment, and is now employing the correct IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, as the stock one is essentially the same as the coolant temp sensor which is prone to heat soak, giving a false reading...

 

Soon. Verry soon.

 

...

 

The runners, although the stockers are being reused, they will benefit from a little siamesing as well. Granted, it isn't as much as you can get when siamesing aftermarket runners, but it doesn't have to be. Increased velocity and no obstruction, is the only thing I am after.

Here is a before and after...

 

so u think this setup is gonna hold up to at least 550rwhp?
thats prolly bout what its gonna take minimum on a full weight 3rd gen that has proper susp setup. i think you should go with the tnetics right off the bat, and not saying that just cuz i sell em

 

Figured I would throw this up real quick, the '90 GTA obviously came with the smaller distributor cap with an external coil, but I opted to go with the larger distributor cap with the internal coil. Switching them is a breeze, the four lines leading to the ignition module need to be inverted, and for the two wires leading to the ignition and RPM on the side of the cap I simply went to the local junkyard and "borrowed" a set of terminals, then cut and spliced them in. The cap and rotor is from MSD, and the internal coil is a Flamethrower. Should work well. I will solder everything in after the first startup...

 

Which IAT sensor you went with, do you have a part number?

 

Looks good so far. Seems like alot of work to make a stockish 305 shoot for 9's lol very curious to see this car run with the ported heads, but stock runners do seem to hurt this setup, but i guess a set of slp or big tubes is out the budget?

For iat sensor i ran the diyautotune sensor and also their 3 bar map. Iat finally works as the coolant temp sensor type is slooooow to react and only reads heat soak effects. The plastic cage iat in the air ducting reads fast and shows me true temps

 

#DEM TS10077, Napa Online has them...

... a lot of work? That is honestly what true hot rodding is, making something out of absolutely nothing, and working with what you have available. If I was to throw a decent amount of money at this engine, I honestly wouldn't, as that is why I passed on a good set of aluminum heads, and roller camshaft. The runners will in fact hold me back a little, but remember that I am choosing to work with stock sized 1.84" intake valves, and I fully siamesed the lower intake manifold as well as the rest of the system, so the runners won't as detrimental as if I were running 2.02" valves. The cam has enough duration to help with RPM as well. You guys are in for a surprise.

 

I just thought the premise was to boost a stock 305 tpi high enough to see how high you can go and how close to 9's you can get. But ported heads intake and cam certainly will help get more power on less boost which is a good thing for intake temps lol

I do wish to track down a L30 crate and add stealth ram and roller cam and see what i can get out of it with twins, t3/t4 hybrids perhaps but that is for another time

 

Boost a stock 305 TPI lol? No, if that is the impression that was given from the getgo then it is the wrong one. This thread is a chronicle of a nine second 305 Trans Am, and the very first post I wrote mentioned the mods to the 305 engine in which I was planning on going with to help it to get to that level. The engine is coming along nicely, there are just a few things that I am doing behind the scenes that I haven't posted just yet, but pictures will be up soon, the engine will be running shortly, and videos of the dyno and runs will be linked.

 

another option for the iat sensor is to ask the parts store for a 87-89 2.8 f-body sensor.
i thinkt hey are 14 bucks each, these are also the correct open element sensors

rob u need to get that thing put together, lol ive been at mine for 2 maybe 3 years now and it finally just made it to daily driver status.take a look in my build thread.
u know me as well now that its up n running there will be lots of videos

 

I just checked out your recent videos Dave, that poor 350 is breaking up a little, but I'm sure you'll have that squared away soon. Looking forward to seeing some more videos from you and the other Dave, as well as seeing the ET/Trap, as I use them to give me the momentum to wrap mine up, because I get bored of working on this one very quickly when this forum starts getting kinda slow. Slow, you know, kinda like your twin turbo 350 (stirs the pot)...

 

Alright, awhile back I scrapped the idea of running the heater core coolant lines into the intake manifold, and decided to run them behind the cylinder heads. This is a very easy mod to do, and it does not in any way whatsoever negatively effect your cooling cycle, as I have done this before. The reason for this mod is because I literally don't even want to "see" any coolant lines anywhere, I want them tucked away neatly in the back. Now, this mod in conjunction with welding up the EGR ports in the cylinder head will make it easier for an LT1 intake swap down the line (hint hint), as I already tig welded the distributor hole in one that I have lying around in the garage. For now though, lets see how the siamsed TPI system fairs. Now, the lower intake manifold was already drilled an tapped for the fittings, I simply tig welded the rear one shut, and will be using the front one next to the waterneck for the coolant gauge sensor. For those of you wanting to do this mod in the back of the cylinder heads, you will need both a 3/8 NPT coolant fitting, as well as a 1/2 NPT coolant fitting, with the same size taps. For drill bits you will need 37/64 for the 3/8 NPT tap, and 45/64 for the 1/2 NPT tap. Do not forget to seal the fittings with teflon sealant in their new locations...

 

The intercooler. Originally the plan was to plumb the turbo straight to the throttle body while running alky injection to cool the charge down, but I decided to include an intercooler as well. Can't find any decent V2 TTA intercoolers to grab for the right price, so I will more than likely be going with the tried and true ebay universal intercooler (24"-12"-4"). Most of you newbies might not of heard of Steve Kaminski, but he was the first to stuff in a Grand National engine into a Black 3rd Gen Trans Am, and he is the one who inspired me to build something similar, albeit with the LB9 instead of the LC2. I am modifying the front bumper (spare one, not the original) similar to what he did to allow for cold air to hit the intercooler dead on, and it's definitely going to look factory when done. That's the stock radiator in the pic, that too is on its' way out...

 

Should be back from MDW sometime tomorrow, and will try to have the heads on that night. They came out great for what they are, they were essentially free because they were already on the engine, obviously, I ported them heavily, they give me the static compression ratio I need in conjunction with the Cometic MLS gaskets I am using, not to mention they look great. The only cost for this were the few dremel bits I used, and some of my own personal time to get them done. Off idle is going to be absolutely insane with these heads and Lunati camshaft after I get done with the tuning...

 

u want the 32x12x4 fmic not the 24x12x4 , no need to modify the front bumper either.

it fits perfectly and fills the area infront of the rad , with both fans running it pulls a ton of air threw the fmic and rad, in 80* weather we have been having my iroc will idle at 165* all day long and runs around 195-205* when driving. thats with both fans on all the time though so a bigger rad is deff a good idea

 

No, 31"-12"-4" is the overall dimensions of the whole unit, 24"-12"-4" is the core, which is what I was quoting. I know what I want with the nose for this project, so it doesn't matter what works or not, its was I am doing with the project...

 

Today has been absolutely beautiful, was in and out of the house BBQ'ing, then got to the cylinder heads. Only installed one because I didn't want to waste the day on the engine, as its way too nice out, but anyways the passenger side cylinder head is on, Cometic MLS gasket was coated with copper spray, then all of the bolts were torqued down to 75-foot pounds, with thread sealant applied, of course. The modded passenger bracket for the serpentine system was put on, and I figured I would throw out a little teaser with the turbo while I was at it. Still need to clock it, but I'll get to that when I run the oil lines as well as brace the serpentine bracket with bolt sleeves.

 

Hard to tell from the pics because of the glare from the sun into the camera, but there is plenty of room for the turbo housing, it clears the bracket and reservoir easily, I made sure of that, just gotta clock it still...

 

Last one for the night, gonna get that other head on there sometime this week. The intercooler was already ordered up, should be here in a few days, gotta bang out the 4" downpipe as well. Slowly, albeit surely, getting there...

 

Its looking good. Keep it up.

I know your runnning a IC but you said alky also right? Im curious to see someone use a dual nozzle set up with 2 hobs switches and one for say 5psi and a larger one for 8psi. Id be curious to see if that would work better for part throttle pulls but since you have a IC I guess you wouldnt need that. I see myself loading up rich when I go into part throttle pulls since that alky is just a tad strong but the fine line between when i really need the alky and when it is activated, is very thin. If I could have the time to play with mine I would but your car would eat up alot more alky then mine...Progressive controlers are just too much

 

Thanks Mark. Gonna see what Bob Rauscher's EBL can cook up regarding the methanol injection. Once the EBL is installed and I start tuning I am sure RBob will join this thread and start making some recommendations in terms of set points etc. Seriously can't wait to get this thing going because now I know for sure that certain people are reading this thread from other forums, and soon it will be time to run them at the track lol...

 

Alcohol injection in the EBL P4 is a done deal. We were hoping to get the waste gate control code done too then release it to the unsuspecting public. Not sure now as the test car for that code is down for some new fuel pumps.

Although, in the short time we were able to test the WG code is appears that it works.

For the alcohol injection control there is a test/prime input (ground a pin via a switch), then a 3D table based on RPM & boost that is the pumps duty cycle. Lastly, a brake switch input that will reduce the DC% by a programmable amount. This switch is optional and is intended for staging.

Will need a pump, hose, filter, and nozzle (the hardware parts), along with a solid state fan relay module as the pump driver.

RBob.

 

Bob, I'm gonna ask Paul what he has in the garage, as he might have a spare Razor Alky setup for a TTA lying around somewhere that I can get from him. I was by his shop yesterday, and he pulled out a set of Nascar iron heads for the LC2 (1 of 20 made), as well as a twin turbo header setup, but I forget who he said made them, maybe Kenne Bell, not sure. He convinced me to put the battery in the truck for this project without saying a word, he just popped the trunk in the Grand National, and I loved the way he had it setup. Needless to say it was an impressive as hell trip. This 4" downpipe is going to be a pain in the @ss putting together, as there is enough room to squeeze it through, but then again there isn't. Going to be a very close fit...

 

i'm sub'd to this thread, and haven't been getting updates, hmm

 

Okay, I clocked the turbo the way I need it to be positioned, and I worked on the rest of the brackets. I also picked up the right size belt by using the ole rope method as well. Still didn't put the other cylinder head on just yet, it's way too hot to do that today, believe me, I'm lucky I got done what I did, it's 90 degrees out lol. I also picked up a set of transmission lines that belonged to my old Camaro from a buddy of mine who was holding onto them for quite awhile, gonna clean those up in a few minutes and put them on. Here is a picture of after I finished putting the new ans shorter belt onto the serpentine system...

 

Was just talking to to TwinTurboROC on the phone, and I told him I'm really not feeling the red fuel lines anymore. Eventually the alternator will be replaced with a chrome one, and of course the valve covers and water neck are already chrome, and the rest of the Tuned Port system is aluminum, so it will definitely offset the red, but I think I am going to remove the red paint on the fuel lines and just polish them. He had me laughing too, as he said you know Rob if we hit our goals nobody is going to believe us lol. I can't stress this enough, I am going to video every single run and street race (in Mexico) that this car is involved in lol...

 

Okay, turbo was pulled off, as was the turbo header. I am going to slap on a set of exhaust manifolds that I ported because I want this thing up and running now, as its' been sitting long enough. Bob, what would you recommend I do to the MEMCAL cover of the EBL-P4, as I am just going to use the stock MEMCAL for the filter, and I know you said that it will protrude about 1/2" an inch from the casing. Should I just get creative with it, or is there an easier method? It's going to feel weird using TunerPro again that's for sure. Time to focus on getting this little SBC up and roaring, damn neighbor with a Dodge Challenger threw me a rev before while I was underneath the car putting the tranny lines back on, gotta get it running...

 

Very Cool Street!
But is it really worth while to remove the intake again to polish the fuel lines? There not to visible.
You sure change youre mind alot. lol

 

Haha, you know what it is, once this is done I am not getting dirty anymore, so I want it to look the best that it can. I already polished the fuel lines, I got it done today as I didn't like the red too much, and it was really bothering me. I also got the power steering lines all hooked up with fluid added, fuel lines are all hooked up with new o-rings installed. I should of wrote everything down as opposed to making a mental checklist, as I feel like I am forgetting something. I'm doing the wiring tonight, essentially hiding the wires that I don't need (EGR, A.I.R., AC, etc), and shortening the ones that I am using to keep it nice and tucked away...

 

I think that damm engine looks nice. What did you use to paint the WP and such with??

 

Thanks Mark. The pics don't really do the red on the engine justice, as they make it look more like a solid red, when it is more of a translucent and see through red. It is red anodized paint. Got the wiring done last night, and I'm hooking up the exhaust sometime today. Can't wait to hear this damn cam already...

 

Get it running already. I may pay jersey a visit this weekend or next weekend if i have some time. Get that GTR ready!!!!

 

Just to reiterate, the goal is to pull off a 12 second pass without the turbo, first...

 

I'm trying bro, I'm trying. So damn tired of getting under the car, then over the car, then under the car, then over the car, but I gotta make sure everything is solid and ready to go. Got two damn hours of sleep last night cuz I was up all night doing the wiring. I was so damn overtired last night I thought I was seeing UFO's at two o'clock in the freaking morning hovering over the house lol. GTA is waiting in my garage, and the GTR is waiting in my cousins garage. Update that thread of yours will ya...

 

Some longer screws (6-32) and some spacers will help. Don't want to put downward pressure on the MEMCAL. The ECM's don't like that, hard on the PCB's solder joints.

My preference is to use a plug-able or soldered in filter. The '93-'95 Camaro/Firebird 3.4l plug-able filter is very (very) close to the stock LB9 filter.

For a solder in filter (removed from a MEMCAL) the 3.8L Buick engines are also close. With the SC engine having slightly higher gain. Likely to stave off knock better.

RBob.

 

Saw a 1989 Camaro with a modified LB9 with twin turbos run 9's out at the track I go to. Kinda took away the cool factor of this thread for me.

 

Pics? Vids? Is he a member here? Is he a member anywhere else? I'd like to see it if possible.

 

Awesome, as that is all that is left to get this puppy running then...

 

@g92optioned...then why the fock are you even commenting? I mean wtf was the point of that comment other than putting down someones build? Keep your **** out of peoples build thread.

 

I gotta agree. I mean, I appreciate as much constructive criticism from people as possible, I can even appreciate someone telling me nine seconds will never happen, but to just come in out of the blue and say something like he did is very strange lol. Meh, I know a guy who's sister's cousin's brother's aunt's uncle's son ran nine seconds with a twin turbo lawnmower...