project89

iTrader: (1)

apparently my neighbors dont appreciate the sound of open headers like i do lmao
got a visit from the local sheriff after i fired up the car and moved it,at least he was cool, lol he did say when he sees me driving it on the road he is going to pull me over so he can take the car for a spin lmao


im happy though this is the first time the car has moved under its own power since the day i got it , even if it was without the turbos and just the open turbo headers

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

that is a great feeling

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No video clip's....????

project89

iTrader: (1)

i would have but i only ran the car long enough to pull it into the street and back it back into the driveway so i can start welding up the parachute mount since my welder wouldnt reach with the car facing in.

i still dont have a thermostat housing so there is no coolant in the car im afriad to run it any longer then a min at a time

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I have the ac delete box here just awaiting for you Dave. Let me know if you need a thermostat housing too, I have five of them. The external coil, from what I remember because it has been awhile for me too, gets bolted to the second to last rear intake manifold bolt on the passenger side....

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Where'd you find it? He doesn't even list any AEM stuff on his site...

project89

iTrader: (1)

i posted up in the sponsors section on ttf.com and he replied to it
i ended up paying 171.84 for it but thats still a kickass price.

the only reason i payed more is the supplier he had that had it for 165 had the aem on backorder, one of his other suppliers had it instock and ready to ship so instead of waiting i paid the extra 6 bucks

it will be here tommorow via fedex so i can finally start on final reassembly of this thing and start driving it

project89

iTrader: (1)

rob i can get the thermo housing from napa for 20 bucks lol it owuld prolly cost that much just to have u ship one.

deff want that heater box and a shifter if u still have them i just gota wait, im on payed vacation right now so my paycheck is going to suck without overtime,not going to have a decent check till the end of this month or middle of nextmonth again

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dave, I was going to throw in the thermostat housing with the ac delete box because it wouldn't effect shipping in any way, it is essentially weightless. Whatever you wanna do though bro. Listen, do you remember of any credible wheel shops around central Jersey that correct curb rash?

project89

iTrader: (1)

theres a place in south jersey that does only rims , widening and fixing that we used to use. just cant think of the name right now

think it was something like wheel doctor or wheel wizards

it going to be a lil bit before i have the extra cash fo rthat heater box so ill just pick up the thermo housing from napa for now i quess

project89

iTrader: (1)

got the coldside pretty much done today

project89

iTrader: (1)

my aem wideband showed up today,also taked to the ex shop and they cant fit me in till mid next week to finish up my ex system

rob pm me a price for that stuff with shipping to 84713 ill see what i can swing on payday which is next tuesday

project89

iTrader: (1)

just picked up the last few odds and ends to finish the car if i dont run out of daylight maybe ill be able to get a video up tonight

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Get it done brother, wanna hear this beast roar....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

????

project89

iTrader: (1)

its damn close, would have had it done today but friends came over and we hit the gun range for a few hours today,lol had to play with my new ar-15

pretty much just have to wire in some toggle switches for ignition, fuel pump and my fans, and them set the base timing on the motor and shell be ready to roll

project89

iTrader: (1)

ok so i started on my gauge/switch panel

the aluminum housing is the bottom of a stock ecm case, this will bolt up under the center heater/ac vents

figuring out the gauge location and switch locations

drilling the holes for the oil presure and volt gauge

and them installed with the aem and boost gauge location layed out



need to run out and buy a 2 inch holesaw to get those holes drilled

and down the left side from top to bottom will be my switches for
#1 ignition
#2 fuel Pump
#3 nitrous arm
#4 antilag momentary push button switch


i left room between switches 1&2 and 2&3 incase i need to add anything later

project89

iTrader: (1)

well the car caught fire today :bang: > luckily its not bad and was contained to the dash area few burnt up wires out of the fusebox, some melted fuses and a couple burnt up wires.

the previous owner put 30 amp fuses in everything, not to mention the rats nest of wires in behind the radio out of which 4 were direct to the main power feed without fuses of anykind.

im so pissed off right now im about ready to sell the car

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Ahh bro that sucks. Give it some time to think about, don't jump to selling it just yet...

34blazer

my blazer had the same problem, had to take off the dash and rewire a few circuits. some idiot kid hacked up the radio harness and the direct short melted a few other wires next to it. it sucked lol. but you have a better car with way more potential, and its a turbocharged v8 as compared to my little 3.4 lol. and you dont want to know how much $$$ i sunk into that, and might be puttin down 170hp. i think you should stick with it

project89

iTrader: (1)

ive got it almost all fixed, car has a few ground issues i need to take care of as well.

there is 2 wires im not sure were the previous owner has them runing just yet, one is taped into the main power feed and is connected to a brown or tan wire with a white stripe that runs twards the back of the car on the ds. its prolly for the hatch release or lights . need to fix that.

and a heavy gauge wire that looks like it runs up to the gauge cluster, if i rember right when i tore the car apart that wire was run out the firewall threw a hole he drilled and either hooked to the alternator indicator terminal or it was to a 12 volt +. for now i cut off the bare end and taped over it ill figure that one out later.


as of right now i need to buy 2 relays,
#1 for power to dizzy and the coil
#2 is for the secondary radiator fan though im tempted to wire both fans to one relay

stuff i still need to get otherwise would be a few toggle switches for the nitrous stuff and a pushbutton for the antilag system, but i dont need those for the car to run

btw can anyone tell me what gauge wire should be used on the 12v hot wire to the coil, think i have some 10 gauge wire for that now

34blazer

i used a single 30A relay to power my olds aurora dual fans on my ram with success for the last year now.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i ended up wiring both fans to a single 30 amp relay.
i also foudn out what the tan wire with white strip was, the previous owner hotwired the fuel pump to come on with the key. im going to rewire it back threw the relay with a low oil presure switch to kill the fuel pump if oil presure drops.


scratch that id hate to lose fuel under boost so i will wire the oil presure switch to the relay i have hooked up for the coil

ive decided to ditch the iac control in favor of letting my megasquirt control nitrous instead.so instead of just using my megasquirt to just turn on and off a wet shot of nitrous, ill now use it to turn on a dry shot which i can progressivly control, and also progressivly control the extra fuel added.

ill be hitting this thing with 2 stages 25 shot off the line and then an additional 75 shot to kick this thing in the *** at about half track

unfortunatly my coil wires got burned up in the lil mishap and i cant get new ones locally so till i can drive 60 miles out to the junkyard i cut down some fuse blades to fit in the coil connector slots and ill solder wires to them to make the connections for now


and now some pics

as u can see i still need to put the harness back in the loom in places.
also need to get a new 90* 1/8th inch pipe adapter to replace the one i striped out on the passenger side turbo

the downpipes that are pointed up are temp they are just there till i can drive over to the ex shop and have them connect the turbos to my y pipe

also need to fix the angle on my oil drain for the driver side turbo, its on 2 steep of an angle and the way i have to fit the hose on it the oil will backup in the hose on the ds turbo


anyways picssssssssss








almost time to take it all back apart and make it look good

almost forgot need to get the correct throttle cable for it to, i was able to get the one on the car hooked up but its deff not the right one

project89

iTrader: (1)

this nitrous wiring diagram is kicking my ***

im about to just wire it up as a regular 2 stage wet system instead of a 2 stage dry system and not use the ms to control it

i get the input circut, but the output circut is a lil confusing


im also going to be adding in a knock sensor to use so im glad i kept my esc module. i didnt relize how easy it was to add knock sensor to ms2 vs ms1, my ms1 on the v6 car was a royal pain in the *** to do while the ms2 is so friggen easy to add it




i am running out of room on in the proto area on my board though with all the extras im adding, so i may go get a bread board and external case and move the extra stuff to an external case

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The strange relay symbols are probably confusing things for you. The relay coil being drawn as a green blob with the dashed line through it is odd.

PWM control to a relay isn't the best way to control the N2O soleniods, but I have been doing that with my water/alky pump and surprisingly the relay has lasted for a while.

project89

iTrader: (1)

actually i forgot the ms unit has a time delay feature so no need to progressivly control it

im going to time the first stage .250 of a second after i release the launchcontrol/antil lag switch,and then ill set a time delay for the additional 75 shot to come in right after the 2-3 shift for a total 100 hp shot down track. im hoping with the nitorus to put down 4 digit rwhp numbers. hp goal for this build is 1,001 hp and or an 8.99 et


i should be able to do it turbo355 did mid 800's with really crappy heads and smaller turbos and went 9.37 or a lil bit faster then that

project89

iTrader: (1)

well im not sure if my map sensor is dead or not im only reading 80kpa with engine off, seems a lil low even for 5500ft above sea level. i was expecting more around 90kpa.


anyone got a barometer chart that shows readings vs altitude?

project89

iTrader: (1)

nm i found a decent one and it says 84kpa at 5,000 ft @ 44*f so its right, damn now i know why my daily driver feels like it has no ***** lmao

project89

iTrader: (1)

just finished up my final parts list for tuesday

3 x toggle switches
2x relays
1x 90* 2.5 inch coupler
1x 4-3 reducing coupler
1x package of 90* spark plug boots
8 accell shorty spark plugs
coil connector and power pigtail form the jy
and 4 3inch u bends to run the dual 3 inch downpipes
2 bullet mufflers


so once i pick up this stuff on tuesday the car will be finished
ive decided to run my own 3inch dual ex system instead of having the ex shop coonect the 2.5 inch downpipes to the 2.5 to 3 inch y pipe with the 3 inch flowmaster catback

Drac0nic

Sounds good, can't wait to see some video of this beast in action.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

As long as you keep the diode (I think a small capacitor works also) across the relay to keep the arcing down it works well, without it the relay will melt closed quickly. I used a PWM progressive controller on the N2O setup on my 4th gen and without it I melted the relay in a matter of a few runs (luckly it was my fuel relay so I didn't kill anything but it I couldn't figure out what happened/why the car wouldn't run and had to get it towed home). NX used to (I don't know if they still do) supply 2 40A relays in their kits that had a diode inside to protect them that work really well for this kind of thing.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Final... yea right... I believe that

project89

iTrader: (1)

lol well we all know that cars are never done

the build is stage 1 and that final parts list completes the build stage

well besides the stuff i need to build my parachute mount that needs to be done before bodywork and paint
stage 2 is body work and a custom paint job (will hapen over winter)
stage 3 will be upgrades ( will start in the spring time)

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Good luck with it Dave, and post some vids up whenever you can....

project89

iTrader: (1)

its should have ran yesterday i tried for an hour to get the motor to fire.
looks liek i had an incorect setting in the tune causing the ms unit to ignore the ignition signal from the vr sensor. it just stoped raining though its cold as **** outside still.
but im about to head back out fix the setti ngs and try again

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Haha, this is why I keep scratching my head when you start talking about the parachute assembly cuz the engine didn't even fire yet lol. Not knocking the Megasquirt, but I'm glad I'm going EBL-P4 instead. Get it going Dave, and ask your girl to video it for us if she could. Headed to the track in a few minutes myself, good luck with it today bro, and hopefully when I get back we see an idle vid...

project89

iTrader: (1)

wasnt the ms's fault i had this backwards in my tune file

• Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling Edge'
• Cranking Trigger to 'Trigger Rise'
• Coil Charging Scheme to 'Standard Coil Charging'
• Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)'

the above is what it should be and below is what i had

• Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge'
• Cranking Trigger to 'Trigger Rise'
• Coil Charging Scheme to 'Standard Coil Charging'
• Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)'

the way i originally had it the ecu was totally ignoring the tach signal, havent had a chance to correct it though it started raining again, im hoping it stops within the next hour or 2 so i can go try again

34blazer

sweet i wanna see a vid too

ZZ3Astro

I remember these settings giving me a helluva time as well. I originally went by the megasquirt info but whichever way worked for me was opposite of the online manual.

project89

iTrader: (1)

it depends on how ur ms is setup, if its setup by the manual i.e no mods then u use what i posted above, if u do any of the hei ignition mods the settings may change.

its very important that u not the settings for the way u setup ur ms unit

project89

iTrader: (1)

it friggen snowed overnight, i went outside this morning to find 2 inches of snow, im hoping it warms up enpough to melt it all today so i can get this beast fired up

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Quit the excuses, and bring on the vids....!!!!

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Put the studded snows on the rear. Boosted engines love the cold weather. Now is the perfect time of year for making HP.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i got more snow this morning, in a few more days its supposed to go back to the mid 80's

project89

iTrader: (1)

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Wow looks SWEET twin turbo and tpi= Freaking show stopper haha

88transam 88

Hey sicrs can u tell me how to post pics or upload them so i spread the love for third gens

project89

iTrader: (1)

build completed, this has now moved onto stage 2 of my project, body work and some wild custom paint

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ml#post5071174

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

... lmao, I was waiting for you to get done with the engine to finally update my build thread which has been sitting dormant for weeks. You gotta give us more than that though, do you have any vids of it going down the street, or through the mufflers yet? It went from idle to paint.

project89

iTrader: (1)

it wasnt supposed to goto paint for another 2 months, body shop called and told me they can get the car in on the first, so its a race now to get all the body prep and work dont in time so i can get the car over there to be sprayed