ProjectBird85

I just got done spending over $1,000 on upgrading some much needed stuff, and I cant get my bird to spin the tires for the life of me. I just upgraded my carb hat, fuel pump, pressure regulator, and fresh holley blow through. I attempted to brake stand it and it just sits there and moves forward a little and if I let off the gas it sometimes stalls out. I also tried to mat the gas on take off and it has a slight hesitation as well. But during regular driving I can step on it and it will take off pretty good. But I've been told that this thing should roast the tires off and should go like a raped ape. Im stuck really stuck, should I go with a smaller pulley? I'm about 8-9 psi right now on 17lbs of fuel on WOT. Will changing my intake help manifold help? It's 9 years old and Im sure there are better ones now on the market. Some one please help me!

Batass

How is your ignition set up and what timing? Stall? Need a lot more motor information.

9manastacio

iTrader: (4)

GIGGITY! What have you done to the car, gearing, what size carb are you running?

ProjectBird85

Ignition is MSD BTM, with ignition retard 1 1/2. Timing is set to 35-36" of initial timing with the distributor locked out all weights and springs removed. Carb is a Mod holley 650 blowthrough done by CSU, rear end gears are Richmond 410.

I know nothing about the stall on the car. Other than a list of things needed for racing when I got the car and one being a B&M holeshot 3000. But that shouldn't stop the car from spinning the tires and taking off like a bat out of hell.

Batass

I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a stock stall in it. What heads, cam, and intake? Do you have an air/fuel gauge? Any smoke when you hit the throttle?

ProjectBird85

heads are World sportsman 2, cam is a comps blower cam (dont know the specs) no a/f gauge. I had some smoke before but I went through my idle mixture screws and made some adjustments to correct it, so no smoke. I assume you say stock stall you mean stock torque converter? I see your having some similar issues. Whats with these blow through's? My carb was bench tested on a 2k HP procharged engine.

So today I talked to someone at a car show and they said food for thought that I have my IC piping w/o the intercooler and my surge valve. Should I just run a short IC pipe direct without plumbing. He said it was like any duct work you start adding angles and curves and your loosing boost.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I don't know how you expect someone to answer the question without more detail about the setup and how it's tuned. If you don't know more, then you don't know enough to figure it out, so start digging.

I'll start with that any properly running 355 with a 3000stall converter and 4.11 gears should be able to roast the tires without a blower. Something is really wrong.

36 (I'm assuming degrees) locked out timing... and it starts??? Something is wrong there. I've never seen a car not having starting problems with locked out timing higher than around 30-32, and that was a low compression, big cammed blower motor. Are you sure the timing mark is in the right place? If it is I _really_ doubt that it's running right at that timing, and if it is you must have some seriously low compression and/or a huge cam, both of which you should have some hint of in the way the car runs (and again, if its running right, you still should be able to roast the tires without the blower)

What the heck does "bench tested on a 2k HP procharged engine" mean? It's either tuned right for your combination or it isn't, testing it on something completely different doesn't really mean anything, and I'm not sure how you "bench test" on an engine unless it's sort of like bench racing "yea, those parts should go fast..."

ProjectBird85

CSU bench tests the carbs after being built to ensure parts will hold together. Then they install the proper parts according to spec of the build sheet that you send. I am only guessing that I will have to put this on a dyno and see what is going on. The engine was professionally built in 1999 with all the proper specs for a supercharged engine. 36 degrees of timing starts the car and it's what I was told the car will run at since there is 0 advance in timing other than what my MSD retards the timing at set by the dial inside at 1 1/2. I marked my TCI balancer at 20', 25', 30', 35, then timed with a timing light at idle. The rear end gears are 410 not 411. I think the converter is a stock not upgraded. I'm thinking my jets will have to be changed I have yet to put in on a dyno with wideband to get a proper a/f ratio I have a idle fuel pressure of about 6-7 which increases with boost to about 17. My first dyno before upgrading the hat, carb, fuel pump and regulator ran 300 RWHP with a a/f about 10 1/2 - 12

Batass

A B&M holeshot 3000 would be the stall converter, same thing as a torque converter. If that is in fact what is installed. Problem is, you don't really know what you have which can be a mess due to assumptions on how the car should act based on those parts. Your motor is probably going to continuously take a good bit of knowledge.

I've had lots of problems with my set up. Almost every time I thought it was the carb, it was something else. I had a problem of ruling out brand new parts, on which I've been schooled. I also learned I had a very poorly machined intake manifold.

1. Pull off your trans dust shield and look for a sticker or number on the converter.
2. Verify your timing is where you think it is. Then hook up a vacuum gauge and adjust the timing to highest vacuum. The motor might run a lot different.
3. Can you load a pic of the motor? Maybe a video of it running.

Stabbing in the dark is difficult and can waste tons of your time. You might be better off having someone look at the car, or possibly disconnecting the supercharger and seeing how the motor runs without boost.

ProjectBird85

I had the dust shield off when I changed my starter and I didnt see any markings. I talked to Steve Morris today and the problem might lie in Carb jetting I might be running lean. Im going to up my main jets +4 and see where it goes. Im making a dyno appointment this week. I'll take some pictures of the engine tomorrow and upload them.

ProjectBird85

Ok so I brought this thing to the dyno yesterday and I am very disappointed. I don't know what else to do. An initial pull to 5 psi only ran 214 rwhp with the car running extremely lean with an a/f @ 16.9 then when the gas gets matted it his about 13 1/2 a/f then rises as boost increases. I have 68 front 76 rear jets. Im going to jet up the rear to 84 after talking to Kevin at CSU. I don't know what is going on with this thing. We made another run to 10lbs of boost and I only picked up another 10 or so HP with the lean spike still there. I am STUCK Anyone have any suggestions?

Batass

There are a lot of things it could be. There is a serious problem if you ran another 5psi and didn't pick up any real power. Can you upload a picture of the motor?

Your a/f is off, but I don't think its your problem. Have you pulled all the plugs yet?

ProjectBird85

No I haven't pulled plugs yet. This thing is running very lean, I can drive it around town just fine. It's pouring here so I can't upload pictures today. I also never upgraded my fuel lines. Does anyone know the fuel set up on the EFI t/a with the 305? I am thinking of pulling the fuel tank and running bigger lines but I dont know if that's a pain or not

Batass

Do you have reciepts of anything? Who put the motor together? Its very important to know that it has the right parts in it, and that they were installed correctly. For instance, it could have stock valvesprings in it.

Do a compression check when you pull the plugs. If anything doesn't seem right, ask. You're gonna have to find the problem and bring it here.

ProjectBird85

Engine was built at Golens Engine service. All parts were built for a supercharger. @ $4,200 here's what I have
The fact that the engine without the blower should make 400 HP

http://www.golenengineservice.com/
SBC 355ci
KB Hyper Pistons
Eagle Rods
Federal Mogul Main and Rod bearings
Chromemoly pushrods
Comp Blower Cam
Federal Mogul Oil Pump
TCI Balancer
World Sportsmen 2 heads
4-Core Aluminum Radiator
Procharger Small Block Chevy kit with P600B, Polished
Racepumps 1501 fuel pump
Racepumps FPR
CSU Modified Holley 650 CFM
CSU Carb Bonnet
B&M Th350
B&M Shift kit
B&M Torque Converter
Driveshaft Loop
10 bolt rear
Richmond 4.10s
Auburn Posi Unit
Hedman Headers
3 Core intercooler w/L98 waste gate/surge valve
MSD 6AL-BTM
New MSD super conductor 8.5 mm race wires
Modded distributor w timing lock out
SFC's
Griffin 4 core radiator
True dual exhaust w/ Spintech super pro street mufflers

Batass

Did the motor run differently before you upgraded the parts? What rpm does it take to take off from a stand still?

You should be making more power than that at the wheels with it N/A. If you don't find anything with the plugs and compression check, I would disconnect the supercharger intake and see how it runs. Then get it to run good before you connect the blower.

ProjectBird85

Well after talking to Kevin at CSU I'm going to take it to another dyno because there's a possibility that the first dyno's wideband is way off. Then I'm going to up the jetting in the rears and see what that does. How is it to drop the gas tank from the rear? Do I have to pull the whole rear end off? I want to go with bigger fuel lines and wonder if maybe getting a fuel cell may be a better choice