dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

OK, so I have a forged bottom end that I know is good for the power. Displacment is a bit over 383. I am carbed right now and would like to keep it that way for cost. The motor has Trickflow Al. heads and I have an RPM Air gap intake. I also have a Vic Jr. that I could use.

I have a VERY not supercharger friendly cam right now.

I want to make around 700HP on the street with pump gas. I know numbers that anyone wants never get hit so I figure I will aim high and see what I get.

The car has a Moser 12 bolt, and when the motor gets built will have a built T-56. Chromoly driveshaft too.

Anways, what cam should I be looking at and what supercharger, AND what kinda PSI will I need to be puching?


What I like from what I have seen: Prochargers are nice superchargers, comp and Lunati make nice cams, and The Carb Shop or something like that makes good pre-tunned carbs for certain setups. I assume I will be around the 15 PSI mark with a D1-SC. 110° LSA and 230/236 duration.

Let me know if I am ANYWHERE in the right ballpark. Any advice will be helpful.


Thanks.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Looking for any help.


Also where is a good place to order a D1-SC?

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

dennis i have a complete d1sc kit for our cars but i want an f1 now i call sell the kit 3800 thats polished head unit and bracket no fmu or extra pump 3.40 8rib pulley 3 core intercooler cost me 4400 shipped never used and its all in the box still its TPI u would need a bonnet though

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I am very interested then. Maybe I can call you up sometime to talk about more details.

I am looking for a D1-SC with brackets so that I can run it on my carbed motor. I was not looking for anything polished, but what the heck. Do you know if the brackets bolt to the motor or the sepentine brackets that our cars come with.

I don't have any of that stuff anymore. My engine is naked appart from the power steering and alt.

I see that you are in RI too. I could drive to you and pic it up if I buy it. I am in Dedham, MA.

I am still learning about pullies and all that. What size pulley is that? high boost, low.... What PSI? I am looking to make quite a bit of power.

Why are you choosing to move up to an F1? I was looking at the charts that Procharger has and the F1 only bumps you up a few hundred HP. Seems like you could do that with a different pully or something. Just curious.

Thanks for the great offer.

Later.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

all the chargers need the brackets for a serp setup to run the 3.40 pulley is the smallest procherger makes its good for depending on motor combo 15-20 psi i want the f1 cause i wanna run a cog setup and close to 30 psi afew hundred horse is alot lol i've seen guys try to run smaller pulleys then the 3.40 and run into problems

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

So I can't run that without the brackets that come on our cars?

I am finding it hard to follow exactly what you mean.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

yes you NEED to run the serpentine setup in order to run the procharger setup it bolts to the acc brackets

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ah, I see. Hmmm.... Well then maybe I am not as interested. I am not running those right now and as I am sure you know there would need to be quite a bit of changing things over to get those back up and running on my car.

Frankly I don't want to anyways, too bulky.

Thanks for the offer. If you are looking to sell just the head unit some time let me know.

AC

iTrader: (3)

To further Toms post, yes the stock procharger kits do need the stock TPI brackets, BUT, considering 2 out of the 3 spacers the procharger bracket uses don't interface with the stock bracket, a custom 3rd spacer could be used. I make procharger brackets now for the P1SC, D1SC and F1 (they all use the same bracket). The spacers are nothing special, just aluminum round stock with a thru-hole in them. Pretty simplistic setup when you look at it.

When you say 700hp, is that to the rear wheels or flywheel?? 700 flywheel can be done relatively easy but 700 rear you already know you'll have to be putting down atleast 800 on the motor. You're talking some very large injectors and very custom tuning, wether it be that thing / system you posted about before or possibly BigStuff 3 or the FastXFI setup. Yes, you could do it with a 730' ecm and the 59 code but you'd also probably be talking high-z or was it low-z injectors. Whatever the non stock impedence ones where plus you need to solder in 2 resistors into a 749' ecm if thats the case.

We just witnessed a 350 at around 14PSI making 410'sh at the rear wheels on the dyno and that was with the D1SC. To make 700 RWHP you'll need to be pushing probably close to 20+ psi and spinning that thing to roughly 6000 RPMS on the motor. With the 3.40 pulley you'll be close if not over the 61,000 some odd thousand RPM limit of the head unit itself. Addtionally I don't think you'll be able to push that much boost with belt slip so you might be locked into a cog setup, then you're talking a whole other issue using a manual transmission with cog belts. Talk to Procharger Tech Dept to get yourself straight on what you're trying to do. Nobody I've seen / talked to so far are pushing those kind of #'s with a supercharger.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

dennis JUST for my tpi kit they make kits for carbed motors as well just gonna have to call them and get some parts numbers for a kit they can utilize what you have now check out their webite under carb'd motors all kinds of gm cars there

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I am aware of the kits that Procharger makes for carbed setups tom.

I am also aware of what kind of headache it would be to make that sort of power with F.I.

I will be looking into sticking with my carb. Might also just look into getting an LS3 or something like that and swapping cams and running a D1SC.

But those are future thoughts. For now I think I will build my motor up to take boost and see what the problem might be with running a cog belt and a stick.

Oh and the HP #s are just a benchmark. I don't really care what #s I get, I just know thats the kind of ballpark I will be shooting for. My bottom end is built to take it, and so is my rear and DS, so tranny will be getting built up and the SC will be getting slapped on. I know I will need quite a bit of PSI.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

forgot u were goin FI kept thinkin u were goin carbed sorry well if you need any prices and suck give me a holla just get me a part# and ill get ya price

AC

iTrader: (3)

The issue with cog belts and manuals is the shift. The shift in an auto has a hydraulic cushion if you will but the manual puts more shock to the belt which strips the teeth over time on the cog belt. You could go with ATI's super duper clutch pulley for 300+ bux. I don't see a 383 or 380 whatever making 700+ even with 20psi, but hey, like I said I haven't seen anyone yet, all that means is I haven't seen it done, doesn't mean it can't. Talk with Procharger and they'll steer you in the right direction. Make sure you go with a 3 core intercooler as well.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I will def be using a 3 core. Interesting about the pully and a stick. I have the latest chevy high performance, or is it super chevy that has a 400 making 900 HP with a Procharger and a carb. I figure I should get close if I shoot for a few hundred less than a magazine car.

I will keep everyone posted as to what I decide to go with. I am not going to be doing this in the dark though. I will keep hunting the net to find a build that has exactly what I want and copy it to the T. Then if/when I don't hit the same #s I can start seeing what my problems might be.

I can see the teeth being a problem for a car that gets power shifted a lot, my car is all street so I asume that if I ever really start using that power, it will only be here and there, and not shifting too much at all. And a new belt a season might be cheaper than using that $300+ pully you mentioned.

But who knows...

smiths87t/a

iTrader: (1)

Hey just chiming in here, I recently bought a d1sc from a guy on this site and I dynoed at 600 hp at 5500 with my belt slipping motor will run to 6500,The guy I went to believes it would have made around 650 if belts did not slip. I believe at 11 psi. the motor is a gm crate engine fastburn 385 with a rpm air gap carb shop carb and blower cam 9.6 to 1 comp. the motor was 400 horse without blower. so if you have a forged bottom and good heads with a d1 and 15lbs I dont see a problem with 700 horse motor at least.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Deff. go talk to the guys over here running prochargers. Dont over llook the vortech YSI chargers either.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=27

You should be able to hit your goals with either fi or a blow thru.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the great advice and the link.

smiths87t/a: How did you decide on a cam? Just call up COMP or LUNATI?
Also can you tell me more about how you tuned the carb? I know you got a carb made for blow thru, just want to learn more details about your build. 650HP would be more than enough for me, 700 was just a # I was throwing out there cuz it is really high and I am sure if I get even close to it I will be happy... for now

I have a forged bottom end, I know I will need to swap pistons and cam, but thats should be almost it. You running a MLS head gasket? Anything special there or anywhere else I should know about? I will just be using my car for cruising and shows, and of course screwing around on back roads so some belt slip way up high in the RPM range is not too much of a concern for me.

Anyways, thanks for any more help that you can give me.

smiths87t/a

iTrader: (1)

The carb shop carb comes really close all that we had to do is set the floats they made it a 830 I did call COMP and they picked a street friendly blower cam. The motor is all stock crate engine stuff no special gaskets. I am sure that the motor wont last all that long whipping on it. But I have a BOWTIE block lying in wait.

Batass

I think I'm pretty close to 700hp with my car if not more. It ran 125 mph last year with barely any timing, poor carb setup, no meth injection, and no cold air intake.

With those numbers the car was making around 550hp. Its a completely different animal now with proper tuning and a cool intake charge. Its plenty of power for the street and its an auto trans.

Just pick up a used s-trim, t-trim, or a d-1sc. Cool the air charge with either an intercooler or alcohol injection and use a single plane intake. Run a good cam, but one that will limit your rpms to 6500 and your motor will be fine. I'm only making 9 psi and the car is flat out stupid fast. I make low boost because my cam has a good bit of overlap, bleeding off pressure. But I like the powerband it gives, narrow, spikey, and hard hitting.

If you're good with carbs, build your own, or get one from CSU, carb shop, AED. I use a mighty demon blow through, but took a good look-over and cleaning and some tuning. Half the price though.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Is turbo not an option?

Buy a Single Borg Warner S400 then build a header kit for it. Shouldnt cost more then MAYBE 2000-3000 depending on parts used.

I have a budget build using a similar to a S400 turbo and made 583RWHP on 8psi pump gas, **** tune and no meth.

Now that I just got some AFR 195s ported with a 65cc combustion chamber I will drop my compression to 8.65 and run 20PSI and should see at least 8-900 RWHP.

Also just fair warning ditch the T56. I know alot of high hp guys with T56s and have spent about 5 times more then I have on my TH400.

I am friends with Taner (9sec6spd)(96-97 SS camaro) whom runs a t56 and isrunning 9.00's and he pulls his clutch every couple weekends, and has had SO many issues with it. He wont switch as he is the fastest t56 lt1 car and holds a record lol.

Another buddy has spent around 4-5000 on his t56 and it always messes up and he makes 440RWHP (this year prob around 470ish)

Jay

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the great info.

I would like to stick with my stick. I might get it rebuilt with stronger internals. Still up in the air sorta.

Turbo is still an option, but I have so much $ in my exhaust right now.... It still sux, but I would like to keep it. Hooker headers, 4" cat back and all.

I am currently looking for a used D1-SC. I like the no oil like feature of the SC. Really makes for a clean install.

I have only heard good things about he prochargers.

What engine blocks are you guys running? I called an engine shop to see if they could build my bottom end for me and they all say if you are looking to make more than 500 HP you need an aftermarket block. True?

Also what kind head gaskets are you guys running? Any and all details would be welcome. I want to start making a list of parts that I need.

I only have one major criteria that I need to follow..... This motor NEEDS to be a clone of someone else's. I want to know what I am getting before I spend all this $$$.

There are more guys running SC than turbos it seems, less custom parts. I have the $ to do it right, but I can't afford to keep tinkering all the time with the setup.

I would like to just get a D1SC, intercooler, carb shop carb, rebuild my T-56 and call it a day (new cam of course)

Any more details!???

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

im runnin a world motown block im also runnin mls cometic head gaskets

Batass

The smart old guys tell me a 4 bolt roller block is good for 800 and earlier blocks are good for around a thousand if you're not spinning wild rpms. Not sure if thats factory 4 bolt or splayed.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have a 1974 truck block that is made for solid lifters, but I have retrofit hyd. roller lifters in it now. It has 4 bolt main caps. Not splayed though. I would think this would be fine for what I want, but I also want to do this 100% right.

I want a car that has around 600 HP to the wheels. So I am going to be looking at around the 700 HP range at the fly. (playing it safe).

I asked a couple engine builders around me and they say anything over 500 HP should be an aftermarket block. That seems REALLY on the safe side for me. I want to do that much +200HP. so maybe I should just look into an aftermarket block.

I have a forged crank and rods that I would like to use. I don't see why they wouldn't work in an aftermarket block.

I guess I will keep consulting with builders. If it is true that it is much safer to get a Motown block, then I will. Maybe I will get lucky and fine something on ebay or racing junk.com... time to go check.

Batass

I've heard that before but I think its because a block will see more stress with 600hp at 8000rpms than a block with 600hp at 6000rpms. With forced induction you don't have to turn the rpms to make the hp like with NA.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I agree. There are two ways you can look at the forces being made.

600HP is 600 HP and that force pushing down on the pistons has to be withstood. Then there is the centriphical force that the bearings need to fight to keep everything in place. The first set of forces you can't aviod when making that much power. The second, it seems like you might be able to with forced induction, making power at lower RPMs. I want to make sure my block can take the first set of forces just fine.

Are there any aftermarket blocks that are better than others? Motown seems to be around $2000. Is there anything cheaper that has similar quality?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

SHP block from dart is nicer than GM factory stuff but alot of 2pc rear main GM blocks converted to splayed 4 bolt mains do hold alot of power. 600 shouldnt be a problem on those.

And I have seen a few 600whp 383-406 inch motors here with D1SC blowers at 15 lbs. 383 on that much boost should hit 600whp with good heads and healthy cam...like you have now and will have (cam).

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thats good that they can hold that kind of power. I am looking more into the 700 HP range. That is pretty much where my connecting rod's HP is rated too. I think my crank too. The more I think of the whole project and consider the $ that I am going to invest I think it would be smartest to not cut corners and just go with an aftermarket block.

I am sure any aftermarket block will be fine, but I will start a new thread about that I guess.

So far all I know is motown and dart really. Guess I will see if I can find good deals and start there. only requirement is that i can use my crank and rods in it. I don't have exact specs on my crank or rods, but I am sure I can find them somewhere in the paper work.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Any h-beam forged rod will work with good rod bolts like ARP 2000's or better yet the L-19's. Those type setups have seen over 1000hp just fine. Rods are likely to break before the crank does. Any forged crank should be ok for your goals

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have ARP bolts holding togeather the bottom end right now. I think I should be good in that area. I know I will need new pistons though. But I am not sure what to get since I am still not sure how much PSI I will be needing and there for how much CR to run.

I guess I am going to shoot for 700 crank HP and work my way back since I know I want that # to be as low in the RPM range as possible.

The motor I have now makes great power above 4000 and it really isn't too much fun since I am never up there. I want my new motor to make power from 1500-5500. Pushing a ton of PSI I think I will be able to.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I dont think you'll need a lot of psi. Good heads and proper cam with around 9 to 1 compression will get you 700 crank hp on 12 lbs of boost assuming 5700 rpm peak power. These are just rough calculations but seem accurate enough based on other combinations i've seen and tried to duplicate with turbo math

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Right on. I will keep that in mind. I want this to be all legit on paper before I spend a dime.

I will be running some calcualtions in the next couple of days after work. I am a mechanical engineer. I guess my internal combustion class will come in handy after all. lol.

Oh well... back to work for another 20 minutes. Thanks for the help.

I will also check those/my numbers with engine builders, comp cams, lunati, trickflow and others to see what they all say.

Thanks for the help so far.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I wish my setup was 100% tuned so you'd have an idea what i'm making. simple build, and with 7lbs of boost i am hoping for mid 500whp. 700+ on 15lbs.

Jayrich above has a 383 LT1 with LE ported LT1 heads and has made 583 whp with 8lbs on a crappy tune. 600whp is close to 700 crank if you go by the percentage loss

Good intake/heads/cam and your easily gonna hit your goals with less than 15lbs.. 10-12 should do it

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Still doing research, but that should be no problem for a D1SC right?

I want to buy as few things as possible of course, My crank and rods will carry over to the new block. I DEFINETLY want to save my heads too. They are nothing special though. Trickflow Al. heads. CNC combustion chambers. Kenny Dewinter heads they were called. I think they re-named them, but I am not sure.

They seem to flow fine. Nothing crazy but a nice Al. head that should work. I also have an RPM air gap on there now, I also have a Vic. Jr. that I had on the motor last year. I was saving it for a build like this. I guess I can use that on the new motor. Should be better having a sinlge plane.

So I need a new:
- Blower carb
- Blower cam
- Blower pistons

I need to figure out if my _____ is ok:
- Spings (depending on cam)
- Lifters (hydrrolic roller with 5000 miles, so they are still new)



Random side note: Would you guys run an electric water pump on a motor you plan to drive a lot?

Batass

Well, you want 700hp but are complaining that you don't have enough power under 4000 rpms and that you are never up there. Centrifugal blowers don't typically start making power until about 3-3500.
If you want to make power from 1500 and up, I would keep the dual plane intake and run a smaller cam.

Why are you shooting for 700hp?

You don't have forged pistons already?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

First of all I am not complaining... With that out of the way.

I want to make a lot of power in a reliable way that is very tunable and predictable. A motor with a Procharger, intercooler, blower cam and carb seems like a good way to go since it has been done before.

I am shooting for 700HP because I know that I will never hit it. In the real world it is rare that someone ACCTUALLY makes the power they wanted. I figure cars like the ZR1, ZO6, Shelbys and so on have around 600HP or in that ballpark. If I say I want 700 and build to those numbers, then if I get lucky I will end up with 600 or so. Just seems to be the way these things work.

Thats why.

Yes I have forged pistons, but they are not dished. My CR is right around 10:1... Not blower friendly.

My only other option when looking at power adders is a roots blower, but I want to be able to shut my hood and the small ones don't push enough air and can't be intercooled easily.

I am going to do my best to build as much power as possible down low so that it is streetable. Of course the peak numbers are going to be way up in the RPM range. That is a given. Again, if my peak numbers are say 680HP at 6000 RPM, then I should have a good amount already available at 4000 or even 3000. This comes back to why shoot for such a high number. If the peak is really high then the lower numbers should look good.

In the end I just want to make a car that handles great, is well tunned and makes more power than I will ever care to use. That way I am not looking at spending more $ down the road for more power. Just want to get this done and finished in one shot.

I built the car before shooting for 500 HP (fly). The car has 350 RWHP. Of course it ends up lower than expected.

Anyways, thats all for now. Any insight on that pump? I will search when I get home tonight, just want to see if anybody in this thread has an opinion on it.

Batass

What cam do you have now?

You can hit whatever number, just depends how much boost you want. If you want more low end power, the top end won't breathe as well, meaning higher boost. I'm thinking its going to take 12+ which is pushing it for pump gas without a great intercooler or meth injection.

Another thing to think about. In the vortech line of blowers, the t-trim can make more power than the s-trim, but the s-trim flows more at lower rpms. Something to think about.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Here is a pic of my cam. Not that it matters too much since there is no way in hell this cam could go in a boosted application.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0220_large.jpg

Well I guess you "could" booste it, but you won't really get anywhere.

I think this is it too.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-134571/

I was planning on building around 12-15 PSI. As for intercooler I was planning on getting whatever the blower company recomends. Procharger sells their own, so I was going to go that route.

More flow down low means less up top, as is the case with everything.

The vortech blower flow rate characteristics I am sure correlate with the procharger P, D, and F series just the same. Bigger means more up top, less down low.

I am currently going to persue research looking into the D1-SC.

Batass

I wouldn't be happy with that cam either on the street. Should've made more power though. I think it would be just fine for boost.

You'll definitely like a cam with less duration much more.

AC

iTrader: (3)

Dennis, on a 1-10 that Crane cam IMO would be a 8.5-8.75. Have you tried calling Comp to see what they would recommend for specs as well? One thing that I noticed right off is the 112 LSA vs. say a 113 or even 114. other item, you're running hydrualic flat tappet?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you build the combo right then thereis no reason is shouldnt make the power you want. i wanted 400whp and got it with my old 383 build. I want mid 700's whp with this turbo build and have no reason to doubt those numbers. In fact i think 800 is obtainable

That being said, you need to do some research on parts to see how to make your power. FIgure 600whp is close to 700 crank. 8psi on Jayrich's 383 made 583whp. Right there its getting close. 2psi and/or better tune would have it.

NO reason a D1 blower cant make 600whp on a nice 383 with your heads/singleplane and 12-15psi. 15 is about the max i've seen a D1 blow on a bigger motor. Anymore than 600whp i'd go F1R.


The crane cam you selected is a flat tappet big block grind...not gonna work for a boosted 383 small block. For out the box blower grind, i'd try comps 224/236 on a 113 lsa. Supercharger/nitrous grind that would work well for your setup. Probly will peak just under 6000 rpm but should be capable of good hp with 12-15 psi. Most blower grinds seem to have 8-10 degrees split..some abit more. But most anything with some exhaust split will work ok. Custom grind for your application could be best bet, once you finalize the blower type. Turbo will need different cam

I talked to Golen awhile ago when i had their 383 shortblock and discussed a boosted build. They typically see 700hp from their boosted LT1 setups and they use a baby 214/224 type cam and 14psi to make 700 hp on motor.

Batass

I think the nx276 is around there.

Batass

Here is what you have now

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-31402002/

AC

iTrader: (3)

"Custom grind for your application could be best bet, once you finalize the blower type."


My comp custom cam specs for my 383:
Part #12-419-8
INT LIFT: .520 EXH LIFT: .540
DUR @ .006 LIFT INT 288 EXH 315
VLVE TIMING OPEN INT 36 BTDC EXH 96 ABDC
VLVE TIMING CLSE INT 72 BBDC EXH 39 ATDC

SPECS WHEN INSTALLED AT 108 ICL
DURATION @.050 INT 236 EXH 248
LOBE LIFT INT .3470 EXH .3610
LSA 113

This is a custom grind based of the NX288HR series cams. Hydraulic roller. Comp is also offering a free download for cam spec'ing your motors. I've found it very helpful. I plan on selling my cam this winter and taking a little step up.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

If I listed a flat tappet, then I made a mistake. It is a hydrolic roller.

I have not tried talking to any cam companies yet. Still not that far. Been spending a lot of time on other non-car stuff these days. At least not this car. I recently bought a Gand Prix GXP for a DD. Fun car. Anyways....


Interesting info about other people's builds. Like I said, I am not spending a dime till I have it 100% figured out.

The cam I posted may be different than what is in my car. My CD site has a pic of my cam card. But anyways, I would never run that cam in the blower setup I am planning on.

I also would never ever ever run a custom grind cam unless comp cam comes out and says we don't have anything for you like that. And lunati, etc... Weather the custom cam will do what people think is a variable, I am building this motor with as few variables as possible. There are already enough of those.

I want to have something like 650 wHP but 600 or something around there is fine. I will certainly be trying my hardest to hit the numbers I set out for myself, but I do understand what you are saying Orr.

Making the kind of power that I want with a 383 doesn't seem so strange that NO cam company makes what I want. Thats why I don't think I need to go custom. Hell I can design the motor around a cam if I want since the only thing I have right now is a crank and rods.

Anyways, I will start calling companies this weekend. I will also start looking for an aftermarket block.

AC

iTrader: (3)

Dennis, I'm confused why you think a custom cam will introduce more variables. I'd think it would reduce variables. They take into consideration vehicle weight, desired power band, intake, comp ratio, rear gears, etc etc etc. You'll find out once you call and talk to them, for a std part or custom, they should offer info to help.

Good luck on the build, I'm in process of building engine #3 as we speak.

Batass

I say good luck on finding exactly the same motor you want given the heads you already have and type of powerband. Why do you want to copy a motor? Are you worried you won't make power?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Sot sure why except the fact that if I copy a motor I don't have to worry about how it is going to act, shape of the power band, peak numbers... anything.

Same reason people like to know about the house they are buying. All the details, location, size, etc..... You spend a lot of $, I want to know PRESICELY what I am buying. No questions asked.

Buying another cars motor would be a great option, but buying a Z06 motor is just out of my budget.

That is also why I want to stay away from a custom grind since inherently it will not be possible to copy anyone.

If the heads that I have are truly my weakest link, then I can swap them, I would rather not have to deal with trying to sell them and all that though.


In the end I am worried that I will not make the exact numbers I want with the drivability that I want. I am hoping that if I copy a motor I will be able to avoid as many problems as possible.

Not saying my therory is the best, but people seems to spend a lot of $ trying to get setups to "work". I want to avoid that all and just get a setup that is healthy and works, and drop it in, give it gas, air and spark... and forget it for a couple years.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Trust me you will be fine with what you have and D1SC blower with anything over 10 psi. your heads will be fine, your block should be good to go with stud kit on the mains and as long as it has 4 bolt mains. Rods just need to be forged H beams with good bolts and they will hold. Cam you can do most any off the shelf cam and it will "work" but you will want to try to stay with one that is specifically for blowers. You dont have to go big so your driveability will not be sacrificed even with lower compression.

Boost will make the power you want. Proper pulley on those D1's can get 15psi and that will cover your goals. If it doesnt something is wrong, plain and simple.

Try not to fall into the "copy a build to ensure results" mentality. Although it usually works well, there have been alot of builds that should not be copied but have made ok power. Some combos should have been done differently to achieve the same results. Some get lucky but a well selected combination will make power. Thats what you will need to do. Just saying, try not to get discouraged about trying a new combination of parts.

And as far as cams go, how do you think they come up with shelf grinds? They put together a standard engine "package" and design the cam to perform at certain rpm ranges and make certain power ranges. Thats why they have a camshaft "line" and all kinds of cams in that "line" to fill the rpm ranges. Like, Xtreme Energy grinds that feature aggressive lobes and then they have all kinds of sizes for mild motor combinations to more radical ones to cover all applications. They select a cam pattern that works well for a wide range of motor parts like different intakes/heads/gears/stall/etc. Rpm ranges and suggestions they make for the cam are just a guideline. They are all variable because different intakes/heads/compressions will make the cam act differently even tho the same cam....
Custom grinds are made based on your exact combination of parts. So instead of selecting a cam thats just good, you can get the BEST for your situation. Custom cam grinders have great software to simulate your combination to provide the best pattern. And alot of grinds are not too much different in price than off the shelf pieces. Just my experience and two cents

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice. I do have good bolts in H-beam rods so I think I am ok in that department.

I still think I may go with a new block. Not sure though. That is still up in the air. It seems like a good idea just in case I ever want to do some other setup, the block will be new(er). Not my random old 1974 truck block that I got for free with my engine.

I am glad you think my heads will work ok.

I know that I will not be able to ever do a direct copy because of many things, I just want to get as close to a sure thing as possible.

I will def. be getting a blower cam, hands down. To help keep prices down I will try to get an off the shelf part, and ask, do reseach to see what kind of specs a custom grind would look like. If the custom and shelf specs are close I will say screw it and get the shelf cam, if they are very different, then I will go with the custom one.

I hope it stops raining this weekend so that I can get my interior out of my car and start getting her ready for a new K-member and A-arms...

Once that is out of the way I will be WAY more seriouse about nailing down motor specs.

All I know so far is that it will be a 383, forged bottom end, Vic. Jr. intake, Trickflow heads (Al.), and that ignition is all set.



Oh random question, I have seen some stuff about import guys spraying their intercoolers with C02 to cool them and make more boost, think I could convert my N20 setup to do that? Only reason I ask, is cuz I don't know what I would do with the setup when I go SC.