does anyone make a single turbo manifold anymore? i've been searching for weeks, and all i can find are the twin turbo manifolds and kits for a small block. hell, i even emailed ssautochrome to see if they made them any more and was told no. if you know of somewhere or someone who sells them, please let me know.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Jason

 

i made/developing a turbo manifold for use in lsx swap in 3rd gens.
still working on getting it all finished up, also working on one for tpi/sbc
for use with stock driver manifold, and 2.5 xover with 38mm wg, 3in. dp
t4 flange

 

BBS Designs... sells them here, many people are happy with them, quality stuff...

Check in the power adder section...

Rafael

 

u got any drawings or pictures? i'm just lookin to get something put together on the cheap to give me some power this summer. i have a holset h2c and some other parts i'm using to make a basic 5-8 psi boost setup (stock block).

 

.... people are converting the TT headers into a single;

 

now that is a sweet looking setup. i have 2 truck manifolds that terminate almost the same way.. that is almost exactly how i want to have my setup only with the turbo sitting further forward.

just out of curiousity, why do you have the extra loop welded on the drivers side exhaust... is it to equalize the pressure with equal exhaust length for both sides before the y or just those were the pieces you had?

also, can you shoot a picture of the turbo/wastegate setup? thats the part i'm most concerned with fabricating correctly

thanks,
Jason

 

Jay, that isn't my setup, but that is exactly why he did that, to equalize pressure. I'll post up a few more pictures with similar setups for you in a little bit. Notice the bracket that he made for the turbo, to relieve some of the weight from off of the tubing in the above pic....

-Rob

 

 

NICE

 

excellent ! that gives me plenty of ideas. i guess if there aren't too many premade single turbo setups out there i'm going to have to get to welding.

 

I have one PM me if intereted..

I had this and planned to use a Single SLP driver side header I have. then just make a crosover.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...kup/Turbo8.jpg

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...kup/Turbo4.jpg

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...kup/Turbo1.jpg

I also have a SLP D.side header I planned to use with it and make a croover for the setup. Make ya a deal on both. Im going back to using this setup I have sitting around.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...%20pipes22.jpg

 

[QUOTE=Street Lethal;4067087].... people are converting the TT headers into a single;

It would be better to just buy the single header setup on ebay for $250 in this case. It is a more compact design and will flow for 650-700HP.....the same amount that turbo pictured can flow. Yeah, if you need the flow for 1000 HP or so then I would go with the twin headers converted to a single. Although, if I had enough to build a 1000 HP, then I wouldn't be using ebay headers.

EDIT: Try stuffing that single header setup in a thirdgen. It will never fit. The ebay single setup will drop right in.

 

tpi383... that last setup you showed a picture of is fairly close to what i'm aiming for.. what looking to accomplish is a cross between the setup you are going to use and the pictures in the previous post. the one you have for sale wouldn't work for me because i have 1.6 roller rockers and tall valve covers.

junkcltr.. i would buy the single setup but there just aren't any on ebay anymore... thats why i started this thread. i have emailed a couple of the places that used to sell them and they said they don't sell em anymore. u know anyone selling one or have pictures of it?

 

Heres one for ya..

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...gle-turbo.html

 

.... that setup in the picture that I posted was never specifically intended for a third gen, it was meant to give him some ideas. It could easily be modified to fit the engine bay, as the equal lengths tubing is really irrelevant, and can honestly be done without. The only real issue is the rear tube on the drivers side header needing to be rerouted, and proper location of the turbo itself (by the battery, being ideal). A serpentine setup will obviously hinder the setup, so I would recommend going to the earlier belt driven setup;

 

They were on and off a while ago. That is a bummer that they aren't on anymore. They were worth it if they were braced up properly. They are made out of stainless to that was a good thing for heat.
I don't have one for sale, but I should be able to get my hands on some pics.

 

I hear ya. I was thinking it was posted as a thirdgen setup. It does give a good idea how to run the pipes. The way the turbo sits far to the right will hit the strut support. With a turbo that size it is hard to get it close enough to the valve cover because of the strut support and low enough from the hood. The header is just in the way and needs to be dropped down lower for a thirdgen fit. Yes, putting the turbo in the battery location is really the way to go with this setup and most single setups.

 

just a question for the more turbo savvy of you... i see different setups here, one that is balanced (equal exhaust travel for both exhaust banks) and a couple that are not. how important is it to balance the legs of the y-pipe or is it not a big deal?

 

In my opinion, other than the overall look of the engine bay, it isn't really necessary. There are cars here in Englishtown Raceway Park running in the 8's without them. I mean, when it gets right down to it, an equal length turbo header setup is considered better than an unequal length turbo header setup, but an unequal length turbo header setup is better than a log manifold turbo setup. Either way the turbo is going to spool, and there are tricks to getting it to spool faster, so equalization is really irrelevant in my opinion....

 

SSautochrome headers dont clear the steering shaft. you have to cut the #7 cylinder tube and re-route it. Not all that hard but kinda ruins the header finish

Like posted in the link above, i have a BBS manifold for a single for sale. Shoot me an offer

 

Does anybody know if ohio forced inductions is still in business? I was gonna post a link to them for the OP to check out. I heard about them probably a year ago or more when a 4th gen showed up in GM High Tech sporting one of their complete kits putting out some serious power. I tried to google them with no luck, just some threads on ls1tech, and their physical address on yellowbook. Their kits are for ls engines, the headers can be baught seperately and would work on an ls swaped 3rd gen, but if you're running an old school motor at least their pics would be useful for design ideas.

 

simply not true. I mocked up ALL the FLEBAY SS setups on my red car and they all fit. Granted it was close to the shaft they did slide in. I have picture around somewhere with the BBS knock off mocked up and the Twin setup with forward facing headers in.

CLOSE YES ! this is tock '87 motor mounts I dono if polly mounts would help or hurt. Will never know as I just bought all the sets to see the quality and fit of them all when it was a big debate about autochrome being junk.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/misc/ebayheaders

 

OFI is dead. Check it out on LS1Tech. Its all there.

 

Very interesting... I cant seem to find it now, but there was a guy on here saying how he had to cut that tube to clear the shaft. Are all the steering shafts the same in all the years? Did you check it from lock to lock? The bolt on the steering shaft knuckle thing kinda sticks out more so when you turn there is a chance something could happen. Does it allow room for engine movement?

I really dont like it being that close to the brake lines either. Better wrap that area up
Plus those setups i dont think you'll beable to keep your powersteering and where to run downpipes without cutting up alot of the car? They are nice headers for other cars with more space, i just dont see how those would work too well on our cars. Thats why i made my twins up over the valve covers. But my setup wont clear the hood but i think it would have a chance if i designed it alittle better with clearance in mind

 

turned the heel jut fine. I agree you would have to wrap or move the brake lines. and I dont know how close the turbo would be to the steering box also.

If anything they would be decent canadates for someone wanting to use them for a single setup who can do some fab but not make their own headers.

I think they are $250 on ebay. You can get all the J bend & flanges to make your own for just a little more.

BTW you headers came out nice.

 

I liked your old setup but say you put the turbo closer to the valve cover and somehow used shorty style headers for the setup and turned them around. Have to find the right shorty header but would require alittle more fabrication on your part. Have to make some pieces and get some flanges put on.

The start would use a typical thirdgen shorty on the driver side with cross ver pipe like the stock y pipe, then come up like the BBS manifold. Or do the crossover in front with a flipped header like your setup did.

The BBS design aint bad but could use some modifications to be a better setup. That can be easily created and allow smoother transitions for exhaust flow.

Or even start with upside down C4 vette factory headers sorta like this



I am by no means a great fabricator (first time making a manifold/header) but i was able to make some half decent manifolds for a twin setup using a chop saw, dremel and die grinder/cutoff wheel. A single would have been a walk in the park. Just need a cheap wire welder to tack it all together and then have someone finish weld it for you. I am impressed with my ability so far but still have alot left to do

But i dont see a way around doing alittle bit of fabrication. As long as you have a designers eye and can visualize how its all gonna come together, you'll be fine.

 

excellent information everyone... you all rock. i love this freakin site.

quick side question... where do you all pickup your turbo oil feed? is there an easy port on the block, or do you use an oil cooler adapter on the oil filter, or off the pressure sensor port? i don't have the luxury of pulling my block apart and tapping into the oil gally, so any pointers would be awesome

 

back of the block on the china wall has a port thats popular

 

that would be the port that feeds the pressure sensor i think.. or are there 2?

 

My 89 has the pressure sensor right over the oil filter on drivers side.

The one on the china wall is plugged for me.

The other option is the plug right above the front timing chain cover.

 

mine has that pressure sensor too... thats the one for the ecm. the one thats fed off the back of the china wall on mine is the can shaped pressure sensor that feeds the gauge.

that one in the front is perfect! i hadn't even noticed that one... wouldn't even have to run alot of line to get to the turbo. hope like hell i can get the one in my block out.


drawing the volume of oil from there that a turbo would require wouldn't cause me to starve any bearings, would it?

 

That i dont know. I know some guys run restrictors in their oil lines to keep pressure down since you can blow out turbo seals, but volume wise, i do not know

 

That pressure sensor is not for the ECM. It provides power to the fuel pump. If that pressure switch breaks open then the fuel pump will not stay on after the engine fires. The ECM just spins the pump during cranking/engine start.
I source the oil from above the oil filter or from behind the distributor. Less chance of having junk in it and clogging the small oil line. I also run a .063" restrictor and a 1/4" line for the T3 frames.

Blowing the turbo seals is a myth. It is like saying you will blow your piston rings from too much oil pressure. Yes, oil will leak by but the rings will not blow out. Look up a rebuild kit picture on the web and you will see the small piston type ring seals. They pretty much last forever if installed right. The only problem is that coking usually builds up on the exahust side shaft and then the ring doesn't seal well to the shaft. Also, as the bearings wear the shaft moves more and may start to wear the seal.

 

cool.. thank you. i didn't realize that the relationship between that sensor and the fuel pump cutoff wasn't computer controlled.

is it possible to get at the one behind the distributer without pulling the engine?

 

My setup does use vette manifolds
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...boheaders2.jpg

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...boheaders3.jpg

placement of the turbo is so you can retain ac but get rid of the smog pump since that's where the down pipe run right thru.

I made 1/2 of this setup already just never got around to finishing it.

 

here is what I built up for my car. i built the headers myself but could have bought a header and turned it upside down and done the same thing. This car is running 138+in the quarter mile.https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ow-car-005.jpg

 

anything bigger? The picture is showing up as a 1x1 thumb nail here.

 

I have a ton posted all over I dont know how to move them over from one post to the next. if i try to upload it tells me it allreay is on and cant do it again. look at the car running hot now with turbo has good pictures

 

found them as you were poting that.

You should start a photobucket account and keep em all there. Its FREE.
http://photobucket.com/

 

TPI383, what type of corvette headers are those? What kind of mods need to be done for those to work upside down like that. I really love the hidden look of the setup and the way the crossover goes under the motor mount.

 

Sounds like its directly related to having too much pressure. TOo much causes oil to seep through, then eventually causing problems down the road. Master power turbos seem to have problems with oil seeping thru with too much pressure and damaging the seal. From the reviews i've read thats was one issue several ppl were having

 

L98 corvette Manifolds no mods.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...ts_Accessories

 

Yes, too much pressure through a pipe creates too much volume and the drain can't keep up.

Yes, most setups I see have too much pressure / volume. If people actually read the literature of what a turbo needs for oil it would save them a lot of problems. Holset has a good install doc. saying what is required. Not many people read it. They just slap on some oil lines and have at without looking at pressure / volume from their pump or lines. Other are afraid of oil restrictors becuase they could clog. If you pull the oil from a clean source after the filter there isn't much to worry about. Pulling from the front of the block is far away from the pump and filter. I would be leery of doing it with the old junk engines I run. Actually, I wouldn't do it with a nice new (costs money) engine either just to save making an oil line or saving on $1/ft hose.

 

Did you add the exhaust flanges? I notice the vette ones dont have a bracket flange. Did you just weld a bracket type flange to them for extra strength?

 

i'm thinking i'm going to have to ditch the truck manifold on the drivers side... i don't think it would clear the power steering pump. those corvette shorty headers look sweet and will probably work well. i got to doing some measurements and looking today... there just isn't alot of freakin room in a firebird. i'm going to have to pull the nose off to get an intercooler in.. lots of fun for sure

 

Dono what your talking about. These are stock manifolds with air tubes cut off.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car.../hotside304ss/

 

I guess I was just seeing the cylinder head there and mistaking it for a flange.

 

http://xs-power.com/gm-turbo-manifolds-2.htm

Found this if someone was still interested in the top mount turbo manifolds.

 

Nice cheap and easy setup there, but good luck getting a down pipe in there on the driver side. Just wont happen on these cars. Unless you go with a small 2.5" pipe and bend the hell out of it like a question mark '?'

 

There seems to be a debate about tube headers and cast iron logs. The theory is that cast iron logs hold more heat in and increase the exhaust gas velocity. Banks use cast iron logs and there was a guy with a high boosted 305 here that was switching from a set of very nice headers to logs.

Might want to do some research on that, bc it would be cheap, and would make more room. I'm sure there are different situations where one is better than the other and vice versa.

I would LOVE to take a ride in a turbo TPI car. To me, that is the PERFECT street setup with some fatass batass rubbers.