I did a search and really couldn't find the answer I was looking for so I figured I would just ask. I know that the PCV is like a check valve, and I am not concerned with the valve on the drivers side valve cover, but I am concerned with the passenger side. There is no valve in this side it is just an open fitting. Should I just replace the plastic fitting with a PCV valve? Here is a pic of what I am talking about.

 

no.

thats a breather. thing is, on Forced induction setups (nitrous, turbo, blower) you have a lot of blow by and oil will leak all over your valve cover. goto home depot, buy a air filter for compressors and air tools. run the rubber line from the valve cover, to the filter, then to a small breather filter. this will keep your valve covers clean.

cost? about 14 dollars.

 

I am not worried about the blow by coming out of the valve cover but the pressurized charge air blowing into it.

 

well.. with boost, you see above vacuum so.... its kind of a pointless system tbh. the point of the pcv iirc was to literally vacuum the vapors out of the crankcase. starting at one valve cover, it sucked the vapors from the breather on the other valve cover.

couple of things to think about.

find out more about what ford uses on the lightning, they use some kind ofr check valve.

then take a look at the srt4 .... its a turbo car, in its stock form, everyone takes the pcv OFF because again, it blows the oily mess into the intake, and intercooler, and then into the engine which we all know oil is good for detonation. SO what they do is install a catch can, and take off one of the pcv valve hoses. im foggy of the install atm but we did it on my friends srt4 and its amazing the **** it caught.

 

Oil doesnt cause detonation

3 options for PCV system

1) Vents
2) Pre-turbo vacuum port with or without a catch can, no big deal
3) Exhaust scavanged

 

i swear why do i always get into arguments on here.

 

Just lucky I guess...LOL!

 

man you have no idea.

look.

on a conventional car, its either at vacuum or 0 psi.

if you turbo it. i dont care what anyone thinks, fact of the matter is you WILL have blow by. you cannot stop this. when you have blow by you get oil vapor blowing through the system and whatnot. i have already stated that the pcv system works off a vacuum. think about it, the pcv has the little rattle thing in it right? this plugs the pcv port until engine vacuum (at the intake) pulls the weight up and the vapors into the intake. WHY? because at idle your not asking for performance. again, oil causes detonation. you dont want the pcv open at full throttle, again.. detonation.

now think about it..... the pcv works fine on a turbo app at idle, pulling vac. but what happens when you hit boost? the blow by pushes the pcv weight up... and guess what happens.. oil vapors go into the intake and run through the engine.

anyways. back to the topic at hand.

there is nothing wrong with the breather on the pass side. it will eventually leak oil. just let it get saturated enough. this is why i suggested the catch can install. and i would also elimnate the pcv on the driver side. mainly for the detonation reason.

but hey. other guy said im retarded. so do whatever the hell you want.

 

motor oil would have an octane rating somewhere in the mid 70's, getting some in the chamber under load is a guaranteed way to cause detonation.

 

glad someone agreed with me.

probably the BEST thing you could do though, is the push pull method.. rather than type it out , ill cut and paste it from another place:

"1) Under normal operating conditions, (on a street driven vehicle) you want the PCV line to go from a vacuum source under the carb to a Mustang 4 valve PCV Valve mounted in a vertical position in a oil separator/ valve cover. The Mustang 4 Valve PCV Valve will seal under boost and not allow boost from the boosting device to pressurize the crankcase excessively.

2) You want the other valve cover to be plumbed to a second oil separator and then to the inlet side of the boosting device.

This is called a "Pull/Push" system.

Under normal cruise conditions the pcv will act like a normally aspirated system with fresh air coming from after the air filter into the PCV line before the boosting device and then through the oil separator into the valve cover/upper engine. Crankcase/upper engine air will then go through the second oil separator into the pcv valve and then under the carburetor.

WHEN UNDER BOOST, GOING LIKE A **** AT 150 MPH:

The pcv valve will keep boost from getting to to the crankcase. You will still have about three times the crankcase pressure from the blow-by past the rings though. If you had Total Seal rings it might be only twice as much. You have to get rid of this pressure. The PCV is closed so that path will not allow the pressure from the blower into the crankcase but it will also not allow the pressure out that path.

The pressure has to go somewhere or you will blow out the dipstick, blow the oil pan gasket, the harmonic balancer seal, or the valve cover gaskets.

The pressure goes through the separator on the other valve cover, hopefully the majority of the oil is removed, and the air/pressure goes through the line to the inlet of the boosting device where the massive SUCTION of your boosting device making 1000+ hp draws the oil/fumes into the supercharger through the carb and into the cylinders where it gets burned up (no different than the normal PCV deal but now you have a lot more inlet air mixing with the crankcase fumes so the air/oil dilution is much much smaller and you make excellent power).

Vacuum pumps basically do the same deal except that they can actually lower the pressure in the crankcase excessively and cause oiling issues with-out a regulating valve."

originally posted by Tom V.

 

Yes, if you leave that hose hooked up it will pressurize your crankcase, and yes, oil will instantly lower the octane of your fuel, just as others have stated already. You could keep the PCV in the stock location, and run an open breather (preferably to a remote catch can with a breather on top) from the other valve cover. I tried a "pull" system like someone else mentioned when my car was supercharged, and it did make a difference in oil leaks -- suddenly the oil pan stopped dripping oil. So there could be some merit there, but you do run the risk of pulling oil vapor into the engine.

My friend with a Talon running 30psi of boost ran two -12AN lines to a big Moroso catch can, kinda like this:


(BTW, that is a 7 second DSM running 55psi). As you can see, no PCV, just two big lines to a can with a breather, and that seems to work out fine on a more race-oriented vehicle.

 

For a PCV valve the ones GM put on the TTA seal better then normal ones (also found on GN's). This is to prevent pressurizing the crankcase via the PCV. There are also check valves (aftermarket) that can be placed in line with the PCV to prevent pressurizing the crankcase.

A catch-can on the PCV line is also recommended for the reasons stated above.

For the breather side a number of things can be done. Either vented to the atmo (won't pass emission inspection), or back to the air cleaner or pre-turbo. Either way a catch can may also be placed on that line. No check valves though. The breather/vent side is actually a two-way line, into the engine while the intake is under vacuum, and out of the engine when the intake is under boost.

Boost (from a turbo) does funny things to an engine. Typically exhaust pressure is twice that of boost pressure. Which forces exhaust gases past the exhaust valve guides and into the crankcase. While boost forces air/fuel past the intake valve guides into the crankcase.

Also note that check valves will be required on the vacuum lines for accessories. Such as prior to the vacuum storage ball, HVAC, CCP, and EGR solenoid. This is to keep the boost where it belongs.

RBob.

 

i wish ole boy pocket would come back in here and argue with me now that i have some backup.

 

i know its been talked about before, but i dont think in this type of application...

What about using a ford smog pump to pull a constant vac from the crankcase? They are just small rinkydink things so they wont hog too much room under the hood...

 

no need just install a catch can/line to the inlet side of the turbo,the turbo will pull more air then the ford smog pump will

 

top line form the can will run to the turbo inlet.
i run the stock pcv system on the ds valve cover,and the line from the passenger cover to the catch can to the turbo inlet takes car of things when under boost

 

You can also use a smog pump from a late model GM with a Hobbs switch to activate the pump at a certain boost, like around 5 psi or higher. If you constantly run it the pump motor will burn out as they're not designed for continuous operation.

A lot of turbo Buick guys are doing this with positive results. I'm in the process of doing this with my Grand National. I have a smog pump off a mid 90s LT1 Camaro with a Racetronix wiring harness...simple plug and play installation. It will pull from both valve covers into the pump and out to a catch can. The catch can isn't necessary, just depends on how you want to vent the system. There are a few ways you can run this. See this thread for more info:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/gen...-pump-how.html

 

Yes, but it saves filling up all your intercooler/piping with chit!

 

as long as u dont let the catch can fill up u wont get anything in the intercooler,specially if u pulling form a baffled valve cover

 

Wouldn't an oil seperator on the line before it gets to the turbo solve that?

 

Can some one tell me if this will work?


Running a procharger, run one line from the valve cover to this (moroso oil/air seperator part # Moroso 85471 ) then run the outlet side of the tank to the suck side of the procharger piping. then run a breather on the drivers side?

i just dont want all the crap going into my intercooler and with the higher compression i do not need any more detonation problems.

 

how much is that?

the one at home depot is 19.99 and its a hella ton easier to empty. you unscrew the glass bottom, and dump it out.

 

im going through a similar situation with my procharger setup. I have run single breathers on both covers in the past without significant problems. But, I am wondering if that is enough ventilation. In a catch can setup would you still want to run a pcv in line with the can? And i would guess the can would have to vent to atmos somewhere otherwise it would pressurize? Would it be worth skipping dual breathers in favor for a catch can setup?

 

that one is $99. but i am wondering if i run that kind of a set up if that would be enough???

 

if yall aint seen that car, search Shep Racing. I heard about this guy when I was in DSMs, unGodly how fast that thing is! All going through a 5spd!

 

I went ahead and installed a Moroso breather tank. The biggest problem was finding a mounting location. I ended up mounting it up in front of the radiator. Right now I have the PCV valve in and the other valve cover going to the breather tank. Once I get some more hose and an adapter I will just run the other valve cover to the tank as well.