SHOULD I GO NOS???
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: PA AREA
Car: 84 CAMARO Z28
Engine: 383 STROKER
Transmission: 350 TURBO
Axle/Gears: 3:73
SHOULD I GO NOS???
I HAVE A ENGINE I BOUGHT FROM A ENGINE PERFORMANCE SHOP. I GOT A 383 BUT I DONT KNOW IF I SHOULD GO NOS BUT LOOKING FOR MORE POWER. I DONT NO HARDLY ANYTHING ABOUT NITROUS AND READING ABOUT WET AND DRY? IF SOME ONE COULD GIVE ME SOME ADVICE OR RECOMMEND A CERTAIN SIZE SHOT SO I WOULD NOT BLOW MY ENGINE TO SOON. I WOULD BE HAPPY IF I COULD GET ABOUT ANOTHER 75HP. THANKS ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREAT.
#2
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 43
From: Manitoba
Car: '91 GTA
Engine: 421sbc
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" with 3.89
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
Nitrous works excellent.
Please use the search button, there you will find out which is the best system for you(wet or dry).
Also, you will find out the extras that you need to run nitrous safely, like a bigger fuel pump....etc....
Also, please turn your caps off. With your caps on , it appears that you are yelling.
Please use the search button, there you will find out which is the best system for you(wet or dry).
Also, you will find out the extras that you need to run nitrous safely, like a bigger fuel pump....etc....
Also, please turn your caps off. With your caps on , it appears that you are yelling.
#3
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: PA AREA
Car: 84 CAMARO Z28
Engine: 383 STROKER
Transmission: 350 TURBO
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
ok I will search and can I gain the HP im looking for without destroying my engine. sorry about the caps.
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: currently Jacksonville NC
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
75 shot is not very much at all, most kits start at 75 as the lowest setting, you could verywell spray 100-150 on a stock motor with minimal mods or upgrades without damageing anything as long as you have it set up right. heres a quick rundown of a few things that you would need to get, and a few things that would be nice to have.
Colder plugs 1-2 steps colder most gap them at .035 for 150 shot an below
Fuel pump, if you're using the stocker, i reccomend an after market one so that you do not have a lean condition when spraying, this is what kills most engines (detonation)
You're going to want a window switch and WOT switch, so that you dont activate it too soon, and so that it only activates when you are WOT.
Fuel pressure safety switch, this is just a "nice to have" sorta thing, it shuts off the nitrous when the fuel pressure drops below the set pressure.
Bottle heater: You are going to want to have this. Keeping constant bottle pressure is key to having the gains you want and also keeping you times consistant. (for the record, i had a 2000 grand prix GT with the 3800 V6, with a ls1 MAF and a tune and 100 shot with 600 PSI bottle pressure i went 14.16@98, with the same setup but only a 75 shot on 1050 bottle pressure i went 13.89@102) so as you can see it plays a HUGE factor.
When spraying, the rule of thumb is retard the timing 2* per 50 HP of nitrous. allthough i would say you should be fine with the factory timing on only a 75 shot, anything past 100 is where i would start using this rule.
im sure there are some other things that i forgot, but this should get you started. good luck with nitrous, its VERY addictive, especially since you know all it takes is a 2 minute jet change to bump up horsepower.
Colder plugs 1-2 steps colder most gap them at .035 for 150 shot an below
Fuel pump, if you're using the stocker, i reccomend an after market one so that you do not have a lean condition when spraying, this is what kills most engines (detonation)
You're going to want a window switch and WOT switch, so that you dont activate it too soon, and so that it only activates when you are WOT.
Fuel pressure safety switch, this is just a "nice to have" sorta thing, it shuts off the nitrous when the fuel pressure drops below the set pressure.
Bottle heater: You are going to want to have this. Keeping constant bottle pressure is key to having the gains you want and also keeping you times consistant. (for the record, i had a 2000 grand prix GT with the 3800 V6, with a ls1 MAF and a tune and 100 shot with 600 PSI bottle pressure i went 14.16@98, with the same setup but only a 75 shot on 1050 bottle pressure i went 13.89@102) so as you can see it plays a HUGE factor.
When spraying, the rule of thumb is retard the timing 2* per 50 HP of nitrous. allthough i would say you should be fine with the factory timing on only a 75 shot, anything past 100 is where i would start using this rule.
im sure there are some other things that i forgot, but this should get you started. good luck with nitrous, its VERY addictive, especially since you know all it takes is a 2 minute jet change to bump up horsepower.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 0
From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
Definetly go nitrous; WheelsUp84z how did you fab an LS1 maf to your Grand Prix? I thought the Grand Prix had a built in Maf with the TB?
#7
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: currently Jacksonville NC
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
the 3 wire maf (found on the 98-99 f-body's) has the same plug as the GP maf, then i just cut the "stem" part that sticks down intot he tb off flush with the inside wall of the TB and left the housing bolted in so i didnt have any leaks, and incorporated the new maf with a home depot parts built fenderwell intake, then got the PCM redone with the ls1 air tables, they also make an adapter to go to the 5-wire ls6 MAF as well. i believe www.intense-racing.com is where i got my air tables from.
FWI:
nitrous kit with the Thrasher plate
FWI:
nitrous kit with the Thrasher plate
Last edited by WheelsUp84z; 04-04-2007 at 02:15 AM.
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#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,833
Likes: 0
From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
I'm amazed you got those kind of times out of that Grand Prix, that Thrasher plate must really be helping. We were spraying a 130hp wet shot through the MAF (scary times but it worked) and the car ran a 14.4 at 107. I told him to purchase the Thrasher plate and we'de down jet the car and try it with the proper setup, but he sold the car before we ever got a chance to do that.
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: currently Jacksonville NC
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
Re: SHOULD I GO NOS???
well the car was pretty amazing in stock form as well, with just a k&N with the headlight removed i got 15.1's, and i was cutting 2.1-2.2 60's on stock sized no-name 16" tires. on the juice it was pulling 1.9x's Had i not been in so much debt, the GT2 cam and 3200 stall with TOG's headers would have made it on there, probably putting me low 13's-high 12's, but i had to sell the car unfortunately. if i can convert my analog video to digital somehow, i'll upload a couple of vids from the track. Before i got the thrasher plate, i sprayed it before the maf, but i wasnt so lucky..i had a fuel puddle and it blew the airbox apart and melted the MAF, which is also why i converted to the LS1 style.
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