firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

The oil lines aren't done, along with capping the y-pipe and tapping into the stock exhaust.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Pipes are finished today, get you pics later. Got to bolt everything tight and get some oil lines on Monday, the race shop closed early today =/.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

once u get the oil lines on and u dbl check everything. heat cycle the turbo a few times before going out and driving it.

when i first did mine i put the car on the lift and let it idle for 20 mins,m shut it off for 30 mins, let it run again for 15 mins @ 2,500 rpm off for 20-30 mins, and did it one last time.

after that go out and have some fun once u have verified proper afr's

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Heat cycle to make sure everything is tight, sealed, and seated?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah, supposedly it helps with the turbo(break in ?) as well.(shrugs) i did it on mine and didnt have any problems with it.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

What kind of AFR's should I be looking for at idle and some throttle with no load? I'm asking because I want to get it close in the driveway before taking it anywhere.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

at idle it should be just like it was before.the car should run perfect under non boost situations.as long as u have the base fp turned down to compensate for those 24# injectors. under wot boost id aim for a 11.5-1 afr to start.and part throttle boost to be around 12.5-1-13.5-1. did u install and fmu? or are u relying soley on the ecm/large injectors

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

For right now (5.83 PSI) I'm using the ECM and the 24#inj. The base FP is already set for the injectors. In fact my last two trips to the track, I had them in.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

just look for good afr's under boost then, non boost conditions should be ok since u already have it dialed in

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Does load matter when logging AFR's with boost, or can I be in neutral?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

u will never get boost in nutral with that turbo,the only way i could do it was to bounce the motor repeatedly off the revlimiter and even then id only build up a few #'s.and yes the motor has to be under load.
dont worry about it with 6 psi even if the thing is dead lean ur not gonna hurt it unless u keep it floored.have somone go with u to keep an eye on afrs so ur not looking at the wideband instead of the road

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I also installed an AFR meter in my pillar with the boost guage.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

i have my narrowband gauge in the pillar, but i have an lm-1 so i would have to set the box on the passenger seat or on the console, lol id have to stare away from the road at wot to read it

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Mine is a narrowband guage that I hooked up to the second output from the LC-1, but I will still have a good idea of what's happening with it. The WB guages are expensive!

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

that should be accurate then since its getting its readings from a wideband o2 no?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Accurate enough to get an idea (like a stock tach), but you can't compare the resolution of .01 to 1 volt and .01 to 5volt. Yes, it is seeing what the wbo2 is seeing, but I got the one with lights (no digital AFR readout). I'll post a pic sometime, it's the AutoMeter Cobalt (same as boost guage).

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah each light should be .5 afr depnding on how many leds it has

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yep, and it was funny looking at it when I first installed the meter and LC-1, I had the output set for instant, woah the lights looked like a laser show, lol. I had to set the output of the LC-1 to every .3 seconds IIRC. Actually the first thing I have to do when the turbo is installed is finish programming the LC-1 cause the battery went dead in the car from sitting from so long (actually it needs a new on anyway and will probably go with an Optima).

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

on instamt it will sweep back and forth at idle/cruising but under moderate and wot throttle it should steady right out.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yep, it would still dance a little, though. I figured the .3 sec avg would be fine for just keeping an eye on it and using the LC-1/laptop for tuning. I mounted the o2 near the stock location, I was just reading that it needs to be at least 18" away from the flange, yours is closer isn't it?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah mines within 5 inches, it should be within 18"'s and be before the first major bend in the ex system i.e before anything more then a 45* bend.

but what i dont get is the have a tailpipe holder foor it so u can move it from car to car without having to weld in a bung, so im sure it will be fine were u have it,
the only thing i can see is it may need to reactivate the heater when ur sitting in traffic or idling to long

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I was under the impression it stays heated, just has to preheat before it will send signal.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

It will stay heated.

I also haven't heard of any ill effects having the O2 sensor farther away or after any bend, since all the exhaust has to pass through that pipe anyway.

Also no one has reported any real benifit moving the O2 closer to the exhaust port (turbo discharger, etc.), in applications where people thought it would be better so they moved, and saw virtually no gains.

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

looks like you are getting close john..... can't wait to see it. Might be a few weeks before I head to the track since I am porting my intake. Let me know when you wanna go..... peace

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

It might be ready this comming Wed, if not you will have to wait until the 7th for me to give you a good race . Did you get another car?

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

No I found a complete intake from a TPI motor at the junkyard. So I am gonna port that while I have it off the car. I don't know when I will be at the track. Let me know when you go.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Got the AN lines today (cost $148!), so it might be this Wed!

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

holy crap dude u would have been better off buying ur own fittings/line from summit and making ur own lines, hell i would have sold u the stuff for 50$'s ive got crates upon crates of an lines, fittings, and adapters.


anyways ur dam close to firing that thing up now arent ya ?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Now ya tell me, got them at a race shop (Murray's Speed and Custom).
Hoping to start tonight (my be a late one, lol).

CG_1985_Z28

awsome

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

Aww man!!! You mean I might miss out on your first track outing with the turbo. Oh well best of luck to ya. Let me know what you run so I will know whether to be scared or not...LOL.....
Man, murray's is always so expensive. Its cool... But when(if) I do turbo, I know to get ahold of Dave for the AN lines and fittings.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

lol been there done that ive done trans swaps outside in the driveway @ 2 am with it snowing,ahh the dumb **** u do when ur 18/19

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

Hey! I kinda resent that 18/19 comment! LOL J/K

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I was 20 when I started my first construction company and had a 78 Ford 3/4 ton. Changed the flywheel 3 times before I realized the bell housing was bent (oh yeah and 8 starters, lol). It had to be running in the morning to puck up materials and men by 6am.

Brian, if I go, you should too even if you don't race

I didn't finish tonight ran into the usual things at the end.

They had -10an weld in bungs for the pan and flange (that I made tonight), but when I went to crank the aluminum fitting, I realiaed it was cross threaded (and I could have swarn I got 720* of rotation by hand). Had to ream the first few threads, so I might just want to get a drain line from you anyways, Dave, just to be on the safe side (and yours will be cheaper than going back to Murray's). Also when doing that, I realized I need to hit the top again with the welder (PITA on your back by droplight).

So, I gave up tonight. Have to bolt on the WG and BOV. Then it's just the boost ref lines, and I hope this crappy battery will hold a charge (otherwise th wife will be PO'd that I'm going to spend money on a new one.

Murray's didn't have a cone filter either, so if I don't have time to grab one tomorrow I can just use the one off my truck to go to the track, lol.

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

so it'll be done tomorow? thats awesome.

hopefully i get mine done before the weekend too. i still am waiting on the pushrods to get here. and i need to go to the bone yard for a few loose ends. right now though i am dreading having to set my valve lash.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

For hydraulic valves it is a cinch . I've posted the process before (IIRC to LarryD).

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

ive helped my dad do it on his 350 before, but he can take his valve covers off and leave the engine runing, i wish i could do that with mine. he had these sweet little plates that blocked off any squirting oil from hitting the headers. but is it easier to do with the intake(lowest) on or off?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I did mine while the intake was off...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/4...ighlight=valve

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

thanks man, haha i almost was gonna throw on my stock pushrods just so i could start it up now, but i will be patient and wait for the new ones to get here.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Could have started the car tonight, just outside finishing up the oil lines and put together the t for the oil pressure sending unit/turbo pressure, and I was SO cautious about disconnecting the signal wires thinking that this 17yr old plastic could be brittle. Well, not paying attention, I used the sending unit for leverage SNAP =(. So gotta pick a new one up tomorrow. Doesn't appear that it will leak, but don't even want to take the chance. Besides that, it's just the boost ref lines and put my air dam on after drilling it out for the IC pipes.

Brian, don't think I'll make it this Wed. Next Wed, I'll be taking the contractor's exam, the followin Wed is my wife's night out (1st Wed of every month). So it looks like we will be racing the following week...

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

Sounds real good to me john. Let me know how it runs....

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Started it today! Have an issue with the oil return line leaking at the oil pan, BAD too =(.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

is it the fitting? or do u have a ton of porrosity in the welds that its leaking out of?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

It's the welds, just started it again and it is just a small leak now (after hitting it again). Waiting for the turbo to drain again to weld some more, it's just relly tough to do under the car.
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I wish it was easier to get the pan off with the motor in the car. The -4an fitting was also leaking at the turbo, tightened that hopefully it will hold.
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Also the EGR block off plate is leaking now (I suppose that's because of the extra back pressure) so I have to figure something out for that, too.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

it took me almost 3 hours to weld mine into the pan, my pan was very rusty and i was getting tons of porosity,not to mention there isnt much room to start with..


get some copper seal rtv to use on the egr blockoff plate.btw u can leave ur egr valve on the manifold, just unhook the egr tube from the manifold and install a blockoff plate onthat instead, the manifold wont get that hot,so theres less of a chance of a leak

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, and now the oil hmm, used acetone to clean it, going to try one more time today. My oil pan still looks good, the paint was hardly scratched and I used a dremmel to clean up the area that I welded to, it's just positioning myself under the car.

I can't use the EGR valve because I gave it to 2.8rs and he couldn't even use it, lol.

Come to find out, the threads in the manifold are shot, so I'm going to have to drill and tap. I made a 3/16" thick block off plate and used rolled gasket to make a seal.

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

did it sound nice???? ooooooohhh.... i love turbo.......lol

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Right now it sounds like a loud 3.1 because the downpipe is just shoved over the stock exhaust until I put a clamp on it. I figured since I am going to put a 2.5" all the way back, no need to weld it. I didn't get to spool it yet, just revved it a couple of times and the boost guage went from vac 18 to about vac 2.

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

i take it u got it to stop leaking oil?, if u want it to build boost in nutral/park just bounce it off the rev limiter a few times, shoudl be able to pull 4-5 psi that way.(just dont continuosly do it its not good for the motor)
i can almost garentee u will blow a coupler or 2 off unless u welded lil **** on the end of eack pipe were there is a connector.the only one i ever really had a problem with is the tb connector.for some reason the ebay couplers like to slip off a few times before they stay put.

congrats btw, now we just need more pics,some vids and some track times