daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

same design but much better flowing heads
thnx ttype me trying to do math in my head at 2am while falling asleep dosent work out to well

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

That's why I waited till this mornig to use THIS to calculate the CR, but I didn't check your math, lol.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Finally feel like I'm making some progress!
WG flange...




After grinding/polishing...



How do you like the turbo mount? It's a polyester/cotton blend, haha



I need to get some 2.5" couplers, the origional plan of using 3" pipe is on hold until I get some mendrel bends. So I just cranked down the 3" temporarily to do the fabrication.


A shot from underneath, you can see the I/C to TB pipe comming through the battery tray near the pass tire.




I plan to mount the WG between the downpipe and inlet pipe so the gasses will go into the downpipe and out the exhaust instead of dumping it in the engine compartment. I'm running out of room under the hood, so any suggestions on where the intake/filter could be routed? Half tempted to buy an Optima battery and mount it near the firewall somewhere, but I'd rather leave it where it is.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

dam man that wire feed u have makes tons of splatter, i dont think i get that much when im welding 3/4 thick steel plate with mine lol.

goto autozone/pepboys were ever and find a k&n cone filter with a 3 inch inlet, clamp it directly to the turbine inlet

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I don't think its the welder, but the operator, lol. I'm still not a professional welder like you, Dave. Keep in mind also that the flange is 1/2" SS to 1/8" galvanized pipe.

As far as the filter, I would like to get cooler air than right behind the radiator .

ttypecamaro

iTrader: (2)

Or extend the air filter toward the battery a couple inches to avoid some of the hot air from the radiator.

I haven't looked in there for a while, but I wonder if you could mount the filter under the battery tray?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

That's a thought, I'll go have a look-see.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

First off, the crank is NOT in anyway considered "forged". Froom the factory it's a cast peice. I'm not knocking it, I just like to keep the information correct.

The rods are forged however.

Second, the pic of the TB looks to be a genII TB, whihc will not work with your genIII top end, beleive me, use genIII/FWD guys have looked at using the genII tb on the genIII intake, to simplify throttle cable hook up and TV cable hook up, though I think there would still be issues with where teh cables run. On the genII, the cables attache behind the TB, on the back of the UIM, where as on the genIII, they attach to a bracket that moves the attachment point in front of the TB.
Mine uses custom linkage pirated from an S-10 TB, and welded to the genIII TB, and a highly modified S-10 TB cable bracket, to retain my original throttle cable, though I will probably be changing it with Franken60 V.1.2, to clean up the look of the engine bay a bot, and I may want to raise the UIM, and the throttle cable bracket alreay rubs the hood liner.

Anyway, I'm all for the 11:1 + boost, though I have to admit even I feel that's a tad high, depending on how much actual boost you run.

I like high static comression, because the car is generally more drivable and better out of boost throttle responce, while being more efficiant, and you don't have to run as much overall boost (PSIG), to acheive some impressive numbers.

Franke60 V.1.2 will be at 9.3:1 SCR, I'm not going higher, simply because I don't want to buy another set of pistons, when these ones still look fine. I'm upping the SCR from the 8.9:1 I had in V 1.0, by using thinner head gaskets.
I would love to see 10:1 in my engine, but I'll wait for the Frankenbeast for that. Muahahahaha

I wish I had the same room that you guys do between the engine and the rad. But I'll make due woth what I have for space. Twins should be fun this time around.

vwdave

Flux core wire does that. But if you use Argon gas its much smoother.

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

So I guess that you are not going this weekend.... oh well.... I'll tell all the sushi powered cars you said hi... lol. hit me up....

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I am using this TB on the new motor...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...ork-730-a.html

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

The cold side is done with the exception of the BOV and I/C mounting brackets.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

hey man that intercooler looks good under there,looks like it belongs there .

u did wash it out right?cant remeber if i told u to wash it out before u installed it when i shipped it to ya

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

Man john! That looks sick!!! Its a matter of weeks huh.... Let me know when you go to test and tune. I gotta see it in action. Goin down the track right next to me actually. That would be sick!!!! Give me a call when you are ready to go.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Thanx, and I didn't wash it out yet but the piping is going to come back out to get painted and I will take care of it then. The intercooler is going to look even more at home if my idea for a custom air dam works.

Brian, you bet your **** we will be racing .

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

man thats looks pretty good. i'll bet your getting excited about testing it out.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I was only commenting on the TB pictured earlier in this thread.

You are going to make a scoop under the IC, to pick up air and force it through, right?

BTW I also used a Starion IC in my Jimmy, but I'm changing to dual Ford turbo 2.3 IC cores welded together, and new tanks, as long as they fit in front of my rad where the Starion IC was. I hope to be checking that today.

ttypecamaro

iTrader: (2)

these?

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

I cant wait to get beat by a V6. Believe it or not. I am looking forward to it. BRING IT ON!!! lol I was looking at the thread on here for a remote mounted turbo and thought it would be cool. I could have it done in no time.

don't mean to hijack this thread but.....

Dave, are you still considering making single turbo headers for the SBCs?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

eventually, im still looking at late spring/mid summer to start work on them.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Home Depot 90* flex connectors, I love it (I used them for now). I got a good deal on a box of 3" connectors, but won't be able to use them untill I get the 3" mendrels. I used the exhaust bends to get the system in, and will upgrade later.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

heya first check my thread below this one,maybe i could intrest u in a set

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I knew what you were saying about the TB's. The 75mm is going on a UIM dave is making for me, as well as the top end for the new motor (when I eventually start building .

Yes, in post #265 that is kind of what I meant by custom air dam. I think if I use sheet metal to make a scoop to move air across the I/C and then up to the radiator, then I would be killing two birds with one stone, lol.

I've also seen people weld two I/C cores back to back with wider end tanks, don't know how much you have in "James" nose (essentually would have a 6" wide I/C).

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Yes, cores just like those.

firstfirebird, It won't be layed out like that, they will be side by side, so the IC will only be 3" thick, but like 18" wide or so. Similar layout to what is pictured above.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I know what you meant, but if you had the room to do something like this...
10 second Reliant K (click here)
Scroll to about 3/4 down the page and you will see it. He got 5 more PSI by going with this design, but look what happened to the pistons!

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

yesah that IS how I'm planning to lay it out, so that the tubes are shorter, not end to end, where they would be longer, like you may have been thinking.

ttypecamaro

iTrader: (2)

Lowes sells the 2" ones for like $1.50 cheaper than Home Depot. I bought everything Lowes had then got the last few from Home Depot. 7 on my car and 2 on my brother's. In a whole summer I popped like two of them, but for $6 each its worth replacing over silicone.

Leo_padakin

i always laugh when people mention the same car i drive...yeah reliant.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Got a little more done today, here's some pics...
















Could somebody help me as to what to use for a check valve as I would like to retain the air conditioning? Also for the brake booster?

ttypecamaro

iTrader: (2)

the accessory vacuum line and the brake booster both have check valves from the factory. The only thing to worry about is the PCV/breather system.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Thanx. I have read in a few places where people were discussing the small vac lines being blown off the back of the HVAC controls and didn't want to deal with it arter the fact. I know about the situation with the PCV and plan on making a small catch can with a filter for breathing.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

looking good man ur almost there,are u going to cut the cat??,i didnt have a cat on my car when i installed mine so i cant tell u how much better it will run/spool without it
----------
hey u dont want to leave the breather system open,u need a catchcan that hooks to the inlet side of the compressor.u can just get a vented catch can but it will still allow positive crankcase preasure.hooking the line to the turbo inlet helps reduce it if not eliminating it

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Gonna keep the cat for now since the rush was on so the V6 guys could see what your kit will do on a completly stock car.

I can just hook the breather to the inlet side of the turbo without worrying about damage?

Connect the pipes, la la, la la. LOL

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yes u can,but if u notice oil getting into the turbo inlet, deff get a catch can inline on that line from the breather to the compressor inlet.

im impressed though from the looks of it ur working out in the driveway on jackstands,and the kit is comming out really clean looking


first pass out with the car i wanna see u put up a 14.0 timeslip or better

it should run high 13's low 14's right out of the box so to say

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Thanx . If I could have just one weekend, hmmmm....
With four kids (and I'm sure you are finding out now ) it's hard to spend any ammount of time in the garage/driveway. The worst part is having to put everything away each time only to have to pull it back out to keep working.

I'm going to keep the spring in the WG that came with it and go without a boost controler for now (6psi).
You really think it will run a 13/14? That would be a nice increase from low 17's!

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

14's @ 6 psi should not be a problem,u seen what i did with a highmilage stock 2.8 @ 5-7 psi in a car that wieghed in at dam near 4,000 pounds with the completly wrong gear ratio for a turbo in the car

@ 6 psi im estimating a low 14 with around 260+rwhp with the 3.1
the 2.8 i just ran with was around 230 rwhp @ the same boost level


not to mention with the gears u have and the larger motor ur gonna spool that thing considerably faster then i did on the 2.8

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Remember, I don't have posi...

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

so it dont matter,mine was busted if u remeber in the video i did the burnout and the posi broke,when i launched only the passenger tire went up in smoke
auburn = crap
luckily i have 28 spline axles so im gonna swap in a posi out of a 4thgen.this will be the 3rd auburn ive burnt up in this car,lol and i dont have anymore laying around the shop

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Those numbers are better than I am expecting, I just want it to be reliable.

What kind of AFR is getting dangerous under boost?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

i would stay below 12.0 -1
ideal is around 11.0-11.5-1
ive run mine has high as 13.0-1
----------



dam auto resize
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...es2k3/afr3.gif
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...des2k3/afr.gif
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...es2k3/afr2.gif

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

That's leaner than I was going to aim for.
EDIT: Actually looked and is at 10:1 or so on my o2 sensor currently.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

do not go by the narrow band o2 it is only acurate around 14.7 afr, rely on ur wideband readings only

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I was using the LC1 from innovative, that program looks similar.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah im using a lm-1 with an older version of logworks, i dont liek the newer version

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

hey firstfirebird, whats your E.T.A. on this project?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Probably would have been done by now if I didn't have to work the last two weekends . I need one more 90* bend and some AN fittings to finish (the turbo anyway).

I don't know if this project will ever be "finished" as I keep buying parts for later, lol.

Imthebriman

iTrader: (1)

Well john i hope you plan onrff finishing soon. I am getting antsy up here!!!! I gotta see the gains I got from my rockers. hopefully put me in the high 13s. a little more tuning and I will be ready to spray. I would love to turbo, but i dont have another car to drive.....

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

sounds good. i cant wait to see it done and what kind of numbers your puting out. like dave said that intercooler looks like it belongs there.

oh by the way Rich from Pinks called me back, he said you dont stand a chance...j/j

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

lol i hear u on that one

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

So I did have to make on weird bend, but I used the stretcher you see in the pic to keep the inside of the two pipes at 2 3/8". When I finish, I plan on taking off the y-pipe and reproducing it with mendrels. I just didn't want to cut up a bunch of expensive pipe to mock this up. Probably wasted 2 or 3 bends just trying to get everything nice.





Sorry about the bad pics this time, but it is quite dark out now. Had to kind of blindly start my welds tonight, so they don't look so good anyways, lol.