Turbo 660 is under way!
12-16-2006, 09:42 AM
#51
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Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Hold on there fella. You are a little confused. I have had absolutely zero problems with my remote mounted turbos (they were both Garretts). I had one of the old home-rebuilt Volvo units from my TT IROC project on my RMT Z24 when I was running the 2.8. When I swapped in the 3400, I installed a T3/T4 hybrid built by my local turbo shop, www.blouchturbo.com. I then sold the Volvo unit to a friend and he also built a remote mount system on his Z24 and that turbo is still plugging away (although he did have it rebuilt again with a larger TO4E 50 trim compressor to match his built 3.2L engine). The scavenge pump in my system removes the oil from the return line, just like gravity does in a standard turbo system. There is no oiling issue with my set-up. My Z24 makes 328hp to the wheels, goes mid 12s at 115mph, has A/C, gets 26mpg, and I drive it every day- its so much fun.
The problem turbos were SSAC units I bought fo rmy TT IROC-Z, which were traditional manifold mounted turbos (see my website, www.khturbo.net). I had rebuilt junkyard Volvo turbos myself and had them on the IROC for 7k miles with no problems. I then installed two CB t3/T4 hybrid turbos during a major repaint, since I had the engine out (color change). Long story short, two out of three CB turbos failed on me within a three week period. I now have two real Garrett turbo on the IROC, and with no changes to the oiling system or anything else they have been working perfectly for over 2 years now. The problem with the CB turbos was the oiling wedges in the center section (Burnson pattent- see 'Turbochargers' by Hugh MacInnes).
I have no doubt that the CB turbos have improved. I just wish they would go away, as you can understand from the frustration I've had with them. Not to mention the $1,000+ and many hours I wasted.
Bottom line though- even though I hate CB turbos, I think since you bought it you should just use like you were saying. If if goes up in smoke, a geniune Garrett is a bolt in.
Last edited by 89JYturbo; 12-16-2006 at 09:47 AM.
12-16-2006, 11:29 AM
#52
How long ago was your attempt to use the CB turbos?
It seems they have changed a lot since 2004, becoming more like the Garretts.
Believe you me I wasn't bashing your set up, just seemed odd that dave's got over 20k on his, and yours went out after a mere three weeks.
I have a pair of Garretts from a Nissan 300zx TT, but after much thought decided to go with a single for ease of my first turbo installation attempt. Yours was one of the first threads I read here, along with dave's how-to.
Sorry if you felt that I was questioning your ability, but any input you would be willing to share would be greatly appreciated.
That's what everyone who has gone forced keeps telling me, I can't wait!
It seems they have changed a lot since 2004, becoming more like the Garretts.
Believe you me I wasn't bashing your set up, just seemed odd that dave's got over 20k on his, and yours went out after a mere three weeks.
I have a pair of Garretts from a Nissan 300zx TT, but after much thought decided to go with a single for ease of my first turbo installation attempt. Yours was one of the first threads I read here, along with dave's how-to.
Sorry if you felt that I was questioning your ability, but any input you would be willing to share would be greatly appreciated.
I drive it every day- its so much fun.
12-16-2006, 03:54 PM
#54
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Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Thanks. The regulator is a Cartech. It has worked very well for me and is easy to tune. I was able to run my 3400 on the stock 2.8 chip and it drove and performed excellent, but I was limited to around 10psi of boost due to extremely high fuel pressures. A friend and I are working on tuning in 30# injectors with the Turbo Grand Prix code. I'm driving the car, but it needs a ton of work yet to have the good drivabilty of the 2.8 chip and 19# injectors. The cool thing is that I can now run 6psi of boost with only 45psi of fuel pressure vs. the 80-85 I needed with the 19's. At 10psi, I was really testing the limits of my Walbro 255lph pump and Accell injectors- rail pressure was 120psi
12-17-2006, 07:08 AM
#55
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
oh since u were wondering about the other xs power turbos
i was told by somone on another board that runs the xs power t70 is actually the equiv of a garret t-61 so im quessing the t04s they offer would spec up around a t66 though they dont offer it with anything other then a 1.15 ar housing on the hotside
i was told by somone on another board that runs the xs power t70 is actually the equiv of a garret t-61 so im quessing the t04s they offer would spec up around a t66 though they dont offer it with anything other then a 1.15 ar housing on the hotside
12-18-2006, 12:46 AM
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Thanks. The regulator is a Cartech. It has worked very well for me and is easy to tune. I was able to run my 3400 on the stock 2.8 chip and it drove and performed excellent, but I was limited to around 10psi of boost due to extremely high fuel pressures. A friend and I are working on tuning in 30# injectors with the Turbo Grand Prix code. I'm driving the car, but it needs a ton of work yet to have the good drivabilty of the 2.8 chip and 19# injectors. The cool thing is that I can now run 6psi of boost with only 45psi of fuel pressure vs. the 80-85 I needed with the 19's. At 10psi, I was really testing the limits of my Walbro 255lph pump and Accell injectors- rail pressure was 120psi
Got my by-pass valve yesterday, just had a second to go out to the garage and take a pic. Paid a little bit more than I would have for the polished one, but I liked the anodized better.
Attachment 130635
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Attachment 130635
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12-18-2006, 07:45 AM
#59
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Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
12-18-2006, 08:39 PM
#61
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the cartech reg is an fmu
and yes u can run ur bov to atmosphere without problems,
when ur all done with it u need to get me a soundclip of that bov,i was gonna buy one but i wanna know what they sound like first,i have the blitz style one and its plenty loud,but i want something with more of a whistle to it like the greddy or hks.
and yes u can run ur bov to atmosphere without problems,
when ur all done with it u need to get me a soundclip of that bov,i was gonna buy one but i wanna know what they sound like first,i have the blitz style one and its plenty loud,but i want something with more of a whistle to it like the greddy or hks.
12-18-2006, 09:26 PM
#63
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well how much boost do u want to run,if ur gonna keep the boost level low just go with the afpr and fmu,but if ur gonna wanna turn it up later megasquirt is the better choice.
though u can always buy the afpr and fmu now and buy megasquirt later.
honestly though just buying megasquirt would prolly be a better deal,this way u dont waste the money on the afpr and fmu,since they cost about the same as what it would cost to buy a megasquirt
though u can always buy the afpr and fmu now and buy megasquirt later.
honestly though just buying megasquirt would prolly be a better deal,this way u dont waste the money on the afpr and fmu,since they cost about the same as what it would cost to buy a megasquirt
12-18-2006, 10:12 PM
#64
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
The GM code tends to limit the injector pulsewidth to 80% in the V8 stuff. Not sure what the V6 code does. Since your car is MAP then you either need an FMU or Megasquirt. A MAF V6 will do a better job of fuel calcs than a MAP V6. With the 24#/hrs I think you will have both if you go to a fair amount of boost. It is tough to say if you should buy the FMU or Megasquirt first. The Megasquirt will allow you to get into boost and tune it. If you max. out the injectors, then add the FMU and tune the Megasquirt in harmony with the FMU or swap in bigger injectors and no FMU.
12-19-2006, 05:10 AM
#65
Tough decision! Yhe Megasquirt itself costs a little more than the FMU/AFPR combo.From what I understand I'll need th wideband o2 which the cheapest I've seen is $200. So in reality the MS is going to be $500 min. I think I'll go with the FMU/AFPR and just keep the boost down for now. This way I can get everything in the car and working under low boost and go from there.
12-19-2006, 06:11 AM
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
The MS can work with a stock narrow band O2 (NBO2) sensor. It doesn't have to have a wideband O2 (WBO2) sensor. Your stock ECM uses a NBO2 sensor. Check it out, but the last I knew the MS worked with a NBO2. The WBO2 is the recommended route because of its lean/rich accurate readings.
Do you alrady have a laptop computer and possibly an RS-232 converter and/or scan cable? If not, add that to the cost for tuning an ECM (MS or stock). The FMU is a lot cheaper in the long run. You can always upgrade the ECM later. If you decide for big boost then you will need both the FMU and MS or stock ECM tuning. Either way, it seems fine to start off with the FMU.
Do you alrady have a laptop computer and possibly an RS-232 converter and/or scan cable? If not, add that to the cost for tuning an ECM (MS or stock). The FMU is a lot cheaper in the long run. You can always upgrade the ECM later. If you decide for big boost then you will need both the FMU and MS or stock ECM tuning. Either way, it seems fine to start off with the FMU.
12-19-2006, 11:43 AM
#67
Arter some reading, I'm definately going MS. Although like I said before for I'm now going with the FMU/AFPR.
MS works with NBo2 (already knew that), but with the ease of detonation on a turbo I'd be crazy not to spent the extra $200. My plan is do a write up on here for a budget driveway turbo system, I know everyone can't afford MS. I'll be using polished aluminum and silicone connectors and trying to keep the welding etc down to a minimum to show that it's not that hard/expensive to do something like this if you've got half an understanding of mechanics. I mean I could go right now and buy a LS2, but I think this is going to be more exciting than doing the same old swap (done tons of V6/V8 SB/BB conversions). I like the idea of getting big HP/TQ numbers from a small package. Furthermore I've never even worked on or owned a turbo car, so I guess I'm just curious.
As far as big boost, the MS unit can handle 21.6psi only because of the on-board MAP. I already found out how to get more, just by implementing the stock GM MAP! I also found out the injectors I've got are too small for big boost, but I think I'm going to use them anyways. Also that the MS can control additional injectors set to whatever perameters that you want. I think it will be interesting to see how that would pan out. I always used carbs in my conversions, so the fuel injection is something else I wanted to learn so here goes.
MS works with NBo2 (already knew that), but with the ease of detonation on a turbo I'd be crazy not to spent the extra $200. My plan is do a write up on here for a budget driveway turbo system, I know everyone can't afford MS. I'll be using polished aluminum and silicone connectors and trying to keep the welding etc down to a minimum to show that it's not that hard/expensive to do something like this if you've got half an understanding of mechanics. I mean I could go right now and buy a LS2, but I think this is going to be more exciting than doing the same old swap (done tons of V6/V8 SB/BB conversions). I like the idea of getting big HP/TQ numbers from a small package. Furthermore I've never even worked on or owned a turbo car, so I guess I'm just curious.
As far as big boost, the MS unit can handle 21.6psi only because of the on-board MAP. I already found out how to get more, just by implementing the stock GM MAP! I also found out the injectors I've got are too small for big boost, but I think I'm going to use them anyways. Also that the MS can control additional injectors set to whatever perameters that you want. I think it will be interesting to see how that would pan out. I always used carbs in my conversions, so the fuel injection is something else I wanted to learn so here goes.
12-19-2006, 10:14 PM
#68
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
You can't go wrong with the MS. It is a good setup. Have you looked into the electric fan control? Or are you just using the MS for fuel and spark (piggy-back)?
MS is cheaper than buying an emulator and prom burning equip for a stock GM ECM. It also does a 14 times faster "ALDL" data stream. It is cheaper just most people don't realize it. For me, it is more expensive only because I run GM ECMs in all my junks so the prom burning stuff is divided by the number of vehicles. For one car, MS is cheaper. A lot easier to learn and tune also.
Polished aluminum is more costly than steel. I buy steel u-bends and weld them together. It comes out to about 1/2 the price of aluminum.
C'mon now, what would be the fun in just doing another engine swap. You are going to learn a lot with the boost setup. Best part is that you can crank up the boost and add octane if you want more power. An LS2 would mean $300 for a cam and $1800 for heads. You made the right choice going with the turbo. You will still get great fuel mileage, a stock sounding engine, and plenty of HP only when you need it.
Yes, you can use a GM 3bar if you want up to 30 PSI of boost. Not like your engine will handle that, but the option is there if you upgrade the engine later. Yes, you injectors are too small. That is why I say you need an FMU if you are going to run a fair amount of boost. Without the FMU you can run boost but you need to keep an eye on where your injectors run out as you up the boost. Since you are going with the MS, you can start of will low boost and keep an eye on injector duty cycle as you up the boost and tune. Maybe you don't want that much boost and the injectors will be fine (around 300-340HP). If you want more, then either get bigger injectors or an FMU.
My calcs say you will run out of injector at around 15 PSI of boost assuming reasonable engine RPM. So yeah, you are better off starting with the MS and dealing with the injectors later if you want more.
I mean I could go right now and buy a LS2, but I think this is going to be more exciting than doing the same old swap (done tons of V6/V8 SB/BB conversions). I like the idea of getting big HP/TQ numbers from a small package. Furthermore I've never even worked on or owned a turbo car, so I guess I'm just curious.
As far as big boost, the MS unit can handle 21.6psi only because of the on-board MAP. I already found out how to get more, just by implementing the stock GM MAP! I also found out the injectors I've got are too small for big boost, but I think I'm going to use them anyways. Also that the MS can control additional injectors set to whatever perameters that you want. I think it will be interesting to see how that would pan out. I always used carbs in my conversions, so the fuel injection is something else I wanted to learn so here goes.
My calcs say you will run out of injector at around 15 PSI of boost assuming reasonable engine RPM. So yeah, you are better off starting with the MS and dealing with the injectors later if you want more.
12-19-2006, 10:29 PM
#69
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if he does some head porting and goes with a turbo cam hell prolly run out of injector around 10-12 psi without an fmu.since he should be able to make around 320 hp at that boost level
320 hp = 24# Injectors @ 85% duty cycle with 44 psi fp
with a fuel pump needing a minumum rating of
95lph/or 27gph
asuming a 12.0-1 afr
400hp= 30# injectors @ 85% with 44 psi fp
118LPH/ or 35GPH
ive never bene able to find out the rating of a stock v6 pump,but i maxed mine at 9psi of boost with the fmu.without an fmu it may support upto 12-14ish pounds of boost
320 hp = 24# Injectors @ 85% duty cycle with 44 psi fp
with a fuel pump needing a minumum rating of
95lph/or 27gph
asuming a 12.0-1 afr
400hp= 30# injectors @ 85% with 44 psi fp
118LPH/ or 35GPH
ive never bene able to find out the rating of a stock v6 pump,but i maxed mine at 9psi of boost with the fmu.without an fmu it may support upto 12-14ish pounds of boost
12-19-2006, 10:45 PM
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
All that looks right to me. With a cam and porting the injectors will max. out at a lower PSI. I came across a post about NAPA listing a stock GM MFPI at 40gal/hr. So the 35gal/hr makes sense.
12-20-2006, 09:32 PM
#71
ive never bene able to find out the rating of a stock v6 pump,but i maxed mine at 9psi of boost with the fmu.without an fmu it may support upto 12-14ish pounds of boost
You can't go wrong with the MS. It is a good setup. Have you looked into the electric fan control? Or are you just using the MS for fuel and spark (piggy-back)?
Polished aluminum is more costly than steel. I buy steel u-bends and weld them together. It comes out to about 1/2 the price of aluminum.
C'mon now, what would be the fun in just doing another engine swap. You are going to learn a lot with the boost setup. Best part is that you can crank up the boost and add octane if you want more power. An LS2 would mean $300 for a cam and $1800 for heads. You made the right choice going with the turbo. You will still get great fuel mileage, a stock sounding engine, and plenty of HP only when you need it.
Yes, you can use a GM 3bar if you want up to 30 PSI of boost. Not like your engine will handle that, but the option is there if you upgrade the engine later.
RELENTLESS click here
.
ive never bene able to find out the rating of a stock v6 pump,but i maxed mine at 9psi of boost with the fmu.without an fmu it may support upto 12-14ish pounds of boost
While I'm thinking about it - wher could I get some of those TRW forged jugs from? Can't seem to fing the 89mm's. I guess if I really have to, get a donor block and start from scratch, but my engine is in good shape and don't want to pull it if I don't NEED to.
.
Also dave what kind of cam profile are you running, ie long duration, big lift etc?
.
I think I might try some 1.6:1 roller rockers, they're easy to do and cost about $150.
12-20-2006, 10:20 PM
#72
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Wow, I didn't realize they got that much for a built MS-II v3.0 PCB. Unassembled with an aluminum case and all additional hardware/ckts was $250. I will have to look at the code. Last time I looked they didn't have a coolant fan routine in the code. I'll take a look.
3bar = 3*14.7 - 14.7 = 2*14.7 = 29.4 PSI referenced to air pressure at sea level. Sea level is 14.7 PSI. So you get 2bar over that or 29.4 PSI using a 3bar map.
I wouldn't be worried about the pistons assuming you tune it right and use high octane for hight boost. I would be more worried about keeping gaskets on it if you tune for peak HP.
6 silicone connectors and 12 T-bolt clamps = 6*8 + 12*4 = 48+48 = $96 + shipping.
1.6 rockers should give the cam 1-3 degrees more duration and more lift.
3bar = 3*14.7 - 14.7 = 2*14.7 = 29.4 PSI referenced to air pressure at sea level. Sea level is 14.7 PSI. So you get 2bar over that or 29.4 PSI using a 3bar map.
I wouldn't be worried about the pistons assuming you tune it right and use high octane for hight boost. I would be more worried about keeping gaskets on it if you tune for peak HP.
6 silicone connectors and 12 T-bolt clamps = 6*8 + 12*4 = 48+48 = $96 + shipping.
1.6 rockers should give the cam 1-3 degrees more duration and more lift.
01-01-2007, 09:18 PM
#73
Haven't updated because of the holidays, hope everyone had a good time!
Here's the wastegate I got:
Here's the boost controller:
And I got this BOV adapter to save me some time on the welding:
.
Today I ordered a Paxton FMU and JDM AFPR, will update the first post later with the prices.
Here's the wastegate I got:
Here's the boost controller:
And I got this BOV adapter to save me some time on the welding:
.
Today I ordered a Paxton FMU and JDM AFPR, will update the first post later with the prices.
01-03-2007, 08:15 PM
#75
Dave, here's some pics of the plug that was included with my turbo...
In the hole...
and the clearance I was talking about...
It's not a major problem, just didn't know what you did about the flange you built. I'm just using 1/4" flat mild steel and milling out the hole for the exhaust and bolts. Did you use an RTV-type hi-temp sealer, cause I could have my friend machine some copper to fit if that's the better way to go.
In the hole...
and the clearance I was talking about...
It's not a major problem, just didn't know what you did about the flange you built. I'm just using 1/4" flat mild steel and milling out the hole for the exhaust and bolts. Did you use an RTV-type hi-temp sealer, cause I could have my friend machine some copper to fit if that's the better way to go.
01-03-2007, 08:26 PM
#76
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mine didnt come with a plug,i just made a gasket from high temp gasket material , and that blocke dup the internal wastegate hole.U can also use hi temp silicone without a gasket and it will seal up(use copper seal)
one last option depending how large the hole is is to thread it for a pipe plug install it and grind it flat,though with mine the hole was to big and couldnt be done,(ive done it on garret turbos)
one last option depending how large the hole is is to thread it for a pipe plug install it and grind it flat,though with mine the hole was to big and couldnt be done,(ive done it on garret turbos)
01-03-2007, 08:33 PM
#78
Yeah, I also thought maybe just grinding the plug down so it dosen't interfere with the flange. I guess I'm just concerned about leaks.
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HUH?
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HUH?
Last edited by firstfirebird; 01-03-2007 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-03-2007, 08:34 PM
#79
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by any chance is that a turbosmart wastegate? or is it an xs power/other
edit i wouldnt use that plug,if it expands diff from the turbine housing and its already a tight fit it could cause the housing to crack
edit i wouldnt use that plug,if it expands diff from the turbine housing and its already a tight fit it could cause the housing to crack
01-03-2007, 08:36 PM
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A guy I know has a "GT45". I can probably get ahold of it and measure it.
Hey junk, I have a set of the 300z turbos I want to get rid of if you know anyone.
Hey junk, I have a set of the 300z turbos I want to get rid of if you know anyone.
01-03-2007, 08:38 PM
#81
The plug is a loose fit, but if you think a 1/4" flange will hold, I'll trust your judgement (I hope, LOL).
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Where in Miami are you? I'm in Coral Springs (Broward).
Last edited by firstfirebird; 01-03-2007 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-03-2007, 08:47 PM
#82
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u should really use a 3/8's flange but im sure a 1/4 will hold up,
without thinking i made my first flange from just under 1/4 inch stainless and that warped within 3 weeks,ive got a 3/8's mild steel flange now and havent had a problem
stainless will warp easier then mild steel
without thinking i made my first flange from just under 1/4 inch stainless and that warped within 3 weeks,ive got a 3/8's mild steel flange now and havent had a problem
stainless will warp easier then mild steel
01-03-2007, 09:39 PM
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u can weld ss to mild steel with that,id personally stay away from using a stianless flange though,besides the fact that stainless sux to cut and drill,it warps alot easier then mild steel flanges
01-03-2007, 10:27 PM
#85
I can't do SS to SS with it though, right?
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EDIT: It's a flux-core machine.
Last edited by firstfirebird; 01-03-2007 at 10:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
01-04-2007, 12:56 AM
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
firstfirebird,
That wastegate doesn't look like that "standard" knock-off wastegates sold on ebay. The turbine outlet looks like a normal 5-bolt Garrett outlet. When I made the outlet flange for my T3s I used 1/2" mild steel and cut them out with a plasma cutter. I finished them up with a carbine burr. I have since used a torch to cut out T3 inlet flanges using 1/2" mild steel and they come out just as good. I use wire to form the shape and clamp it to the steel. I follow the wire with the torch. I would use a minimum of 3/8" mild steel for the turbine outlet. I wouldn't use the plug in the turbine. I have never seen a gasket for the outlet flange on any turbos. They are always just machined flat. BTW, your 300ZX turbos are different than the ones that vwdave has.
The tough part about S/S is that you almost need a degree in metalurgy to know what kind of S/S it is and how to weld it and what you can weld it to. Is the S/S you have magnetic?
vwdave,
I will put the word around about the 60 trim T3s, .63 A/R units that you have. Most people that are looking to turbo around here want non-watercooled units for the ease of install. I will keep them in mind though. If you have any info on the Ebay GT45 please post in the thread I started "Anyone using a GT66 or GT45 Ebay turbo?". From the info I have found so far it looks like the Ebay GT45 is a direct copy of a Master Power GT45. If fact, all of the Ebay turbos have specs very similiar to the Master power turbos. Firstfirebird's turbo has the same exact specs as a Master Power turbo.
EDIT: Ouch, $17 for a measly spring? Is that a real TIAL spring? There has to be a better source for them. All the ebay sellers should sell the WG with a 3-6 PSI spring because most people use a boost controller to cut down the PSI to the WG. HHhhmmm, maybe it is a way to get an extra $17 for the WG.
That wastegate doesn't look like that "standard" knock-off wastegates sold on ebay. The turbine outlet looks like a normal 5-bolt Garrett outlet. When I made the outlet flange for my T3s I used 1/2" mild steel and cut them out with a plasma cutter. I finished them up with a carbine burr. I have since used a torch to cut out T3 inlet flanges using 1/2" mild steel and they come out just as good. I use wire to form the shape and clamp it to the steel. I follow the wire with the torch. I would use a minimum of 3/8" mild steel for the turbine outlet. I wouldn't use the plug in the turbine. I have never seen a gasket for the outlet flange on any turbos. They are always just machined flat. BTW, your 300ZX turbos are different than the ones that vwdave has.
The tough part about S/S is that you almost need a degree in metalurgy to know what kind of S/S it is and how to weld it and what you can weld it to. Is the S/S you have magnetic?
vwdave,
I will put the word around about the 60 trim T3s, .63 A/R units that you have. Most people that are looking to turbo around here want non-watercooled units for the ease of install. I will keep them in mind though. If you have any info on the Ebay GT45 please post in the thread I started "Anyone using a GT66 or GT45 Ebay turbo?". From the info I have found so far it looks like the Ebay GT45 is a direct copy of a Master Power GT45. If fact, all of the Ebay turbos have specs very similiar to the Master power turbos. Firstfirebird's turbo has the same exact specs as a Master Power turbo.
EDIT: Ouch, $17 for a measly spring? Is that a real TIAL spring? There has to be a better source for them. All the ebay sellers should sell the WG with a 3-6 PSI spring because most people use a boost controller to cut down the PSI to the WG. HHhhmmm, maybe it is a way to get an extra $17 for the WG.
Last edited by junkcltr; 01-04-2007 at 01:07 AM.
01-04-2007, 01:03 AM
#87
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firstfirebird,
That wastegate doesn't look like that "standard" knock-off wastegates sold on ebay. The turbine outlet looks like a normal 5-bolt Garrett outlet. When I made the outlet flange for my T3s I used 1/2" mild steel and cut them out with a plasma cutter. I finished them up with a carbine burr. I have since used a torch to cut out T3 inlet flanges using 1/2" mild steel and they come out just as good. I use wire to form the shape and clamp it to the steel. I follow the wire with the torch. I would use a minimum of 3/8" mild steel for the turbine outlet. I wouldn't use the plug in the turbine. I have never seen a gasket for the outlet flange on any turbos. They are always just machined flat. BTW, your 300ZX turbos are different than the ones that vwdave has.
The tough part about S/S is that you almost need a degree in metalurgy to know what kind of S/S it is and how to weld it and what you can weld it to. Is the S/S you have magnetic?
edit
heya first i never noticed ur ? about the cam specs,i ran a custom grind i cant think of the exact specs off the top of my head but i belive they were in the 224/218 @.050 with .515/.495 with a 1.5 rocker and an lsa of 112.when i get to work tom ill dig threw my paper work and find the cam card to be sure though.
if ur gonna buy a cam goto deltacams a regrind is only 89$'s shiped as long as they have a core. they can grind upto a .540 lift with a 1.5 rocker
vwdave,
I will put the word around about the 60 trim T3s, .63 A/R units that you have. Most people that are looking to turbo around here want non-watercooled units for the ease of install. I will keep them in mind though. If you have any info on the Ebay GT45 please post in the thread I started "Anyone using a GT66 or GT45 Ebay turbo?". From the info I have found so far it looks like the Ebay GT45 is a direct copy of a Master Power GT45. If fact, all of the Ebay turbos have specs very similiar to the Master power turbos. Firstfirebird's turbo has the same exact specs as a Master Power turbo.
That wastegate doesn't look like that "standard" knock-off wastegates sold on ebay. The turbine outlet looks like a normal 5-bolt Garrett outlet. When I made the outlet flange for my T3s I used 1/2" mild steel and cut them out with a plasma cutter. I finished them up with a carbine burr. I have since used a torch to cut out T3 inlet flanges using 1/2" mild steel and they come out just as good. I use wire to form the shape and clamp it to the steel. I follow the wire with the torch. I would use a minimum of 3/8" mild steel for the turbine outlet. I wouldn't use the plug in the turbine. I have never seen a gasket for the outlet flange on any turbos. They are always just machined flat. BTW, your 300ZX turbos are different than the ones that vwdave has.
The tough part about S/S is that you almost need a degree in metalurgy to know what kind of S/S it is and how to weld it and what you can weld it to. Is the S/S you have magnetic?
edit
heya first i never noticed ur ? about the cam specs,i ran a custom grind i cant think of the exact specs off the top of my head but i belive they were in the 224/218 @.050 with .515/.495 with a 1.5 rocker and an lsa of 112.when i get to work tom ill dig threw my paper work and find the cam card to be sure though.
if ur gonna buy a cam goto deltacams a regrind is only 89$'s shiped as long as they have a core. they can grind upto a .540 lift with a 1.5 rocker
vwdave,
I will put the word around about the 60 trim T3s, .63 A/R units that you have. Most people that are looking to turbo around here want non-watercooled units for the ease of install. I will keep them in mind though. If you have any info on the Ebay GT45 please post in the thread I started "Anyone using a GT66 or GT45 Ebay turbo?". From the info I have found so far it looks like the Ebay GT45 is a direct copy of a Master Power GT45. If fact, all of the Ebay turbos have specs very similiar to the Master power turbos. Firstfirebird's turbo has the same exact specs as a Master Power turbo.
edit first i didnt see ur ? about the cam, off the top of my head i wanna say it was 224/218@.050 .515/.495 lift with a 1.5 rocker and a lsa of 112,but ill dig out my cam card to be sure.
if ur gonna get a custom cam check out deltacams a regrind is only 89$'s as long as they have a core and last time somone checked they had a few instock.i belive they can grind the 60* cams with upto a .540 lift with a 1.5 ratio rocker
Last edited by daves12secV6; 01-04-2007 at 01:10 AM.
01-04-2007, 01:13 AM
#88
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damn i piad 5$'s for my 3.63 psi spring which i still need to install ive got a 9psi spring in there now,only benifit i see to runnign a lighter spring is so if theres ever a problem u can back the boost off to as light as the spring is,which is specially usefull when ur sorting out a tune or stuck with cheap gas
01-04-2007, 01:16 AM
#89
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
I looked for quite a while for the MP maps and never found any. If you go to turbomustangs.com they have a list of MP wheel sizes and A/Rs. I use that info and then compare to the Garrett maps at majestic turbo and the Garrett GT maps. They MP wheels come close to the T-series maps more than the GT series maps.
The Ebay T04E / T3 that he has uses MP specs. SSAC lists a T04E 50 trim comp. map for it. The comp. wheel specs that he posted resembles a Garrett T-series T04E 46 trim. The map is at the majestic turbo website.
The Ebay T04E / T3 that he has uses MP specs. SSAC lists a T04E 50 trim comp. map for it. The comp. wheel specs that he posted resembles a Garrett T-series T04E 46 trim. The map is at the majestic turbo website.
01-04-2007, 07:05 AM
#90
damn i piad 5$'s for my 3.63 psi spring which i still need to install ive got a 9psi spring in there now,only benifit i see to runnign a lighter spring is so if theres ever a problem u can back the boost off to as light as the spring is,which is specially usefull when ur sorting out a tune or stuck with cheap gas
.
BTW, your 300ZX turbos are different than the ones that vwdave has.
.
that wastegate looks like a turbosmart gate though they dont have that clamp around the middle
.
edit first i didnt see ur ? about the cam, off the top of my head i wanna say it was 224/218@.050 .515/.495 lift with a 1.5 rocker and a lsa of 112,but ill dig out my cam card to be sure.
if ur gonna get a custom cam check out deltacams a regrind is only 89$'s as long as they have a core and last time somone checked they had a few instock.i belive they can grind the 60* cams with upto a .540 lift with a 1.5 ratio rocker
if ur gonna get a custom cam check out deltacams a regrind is only 89$'s as long as they have a core and last time somone checked they had a few instock.i belive they can grind the 60* cams with upto a .540 lift with a 1.5 ratio rocker
01-04-2007, 11:50 AM
#91
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vwdave, are you trying to pirate my thread, LOL. If you read the whole thing, I ALSO have a pair of 300ZXtt Garretts sitting in my garage. They are an upgrade from the stock ones (M24) which came in the Mitsu Spyder, and they're also for sale.
.
Where in Miami are you? I'm in Coral Springs (Broward).
.
Where in Miami are you? I'm in Coral Springs (Broward).
I work in Cutler Ridge which is north of Homestead by 10 miles. I sometimes hang out in South Miami though. I just say Miami because everyone knows where that is.
01-04-2007, 02:24 PM
#92
Hmph, thats weird. I clicked edit and it must have copied the post and replied again. Junk asked if someone had a ebay GT45 to be measured, I mentioned I knew someone that had one and I could possibly measure it if needed.
I work in Cutler Ridge which is north of Homestead by 10 miles. I sometimes hang out in South Miami though. I just say Miami because everyone knows where that is.
I work in Cutler Ridge which is north of Homestead by 10 miles. I sometimes hang out in South Miami though. I just say Miami because everyone knows where that is.
Don't want to get too far of subject here, but have you checked out this thread? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/south-east-region/312835-florida-thirdgens-11.html
Were trying to get a meet together, be nice to have more!
01-04-2007, 09:08 PM
#94
Can you help me find a map for the turbos I have? Here's the thread I started so we don't get off subject here,
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...tting-map.html
You'll probably have to copy and paste the link is not working.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...tting-map.html
You'll probably have to copy and paste the link is not working.
Last edited by firstfirebird; 01-04-2007 at 09:12 PM.
01-09-2007, 05:08 PM
#96
Got my FMU last night:
My friend made me a flange yesterday during his lunch. It's only 1/4" mild steel but I have a solution for that and I'll show you later. The downpipe flange is started today and is going to be 1/2" mild steel and he's going to mill a lip at the exhaust exit to make the welding easier with my wire-feed.
Here's the flange:
And the fit on the turbo is sweet, I'll just use a file on the turbo (about.010") make it perfectly gasket matched.
On the turbo:
My friend made me a flange yesterday during his lunch. It's only 1/4" mild steel but I have a solution for that and I'll show you later. The downpipe flange is started today and is going to be 1/2" mild steel and he's going to mill a lip at the exhaust exit to make the welding easier with my wire-feed.
Here's the flange:
And the fit on the turbo is sweet, I'll just use a file on the turbo (about.010") make it perfectly gasket matched.
On the turbo:
01-09-2007, 05:13 PM
#97
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Man, you are spoiled. That is a nice looking flange. Sure beats smoking them out with a torch.
It looks like the build is going pretty good so far.
It looks like the build is going pretty good so far.
01-09-2007, 05:17 PM
#98
Not spoiled, just have good friends! I hooked him up with two outriggers and a broken downrigger ("Hello I'm a CNC machinist" he says) for his boat for ALL the machining I need for my project.
.
For a small fee, could probably get you some stuff if you send me a gasket (basically the cost of the metal)
.
For a small fee, could probably get you some stuff if you send me a gasket (basically the cost of the metal)
01-09-2007, 08:44 PM
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Car: 09 Cobalt SS Sedan. 92 Z28 vert
Engine: 2.0T EFR6758; 5.0TT T3/T4 8psi
Transmission: F40; 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.76 LSD; 3.23 posi
I'm waiting for parts in the mail, but next week I'm going to turbo my little brother's 88 v6 firebird. I already have chip burning equipment and some LT1 injectors, so I'm gonna try that method of tuning. His car is bone stock 50K miles.
I'm using a chrysler t3 turbo (freebie) and an intercooler just like daves12secRS, but with aluminum end tanks from a dodge truck. The turbo has an internal wastegate preset to 7or8psi. I'm gonna try to get away with no BOV since its an automatic, and compressor surge sounds really sweet anyway.
The last thing I need is an oil return fitting. What are you using? and where exactly do I weld it? theres no fp block off on that motor is there?
I'm using a chrysler t3 turbo (freebie) and an intercooler just like daves12secRS, but with aluminum end tanks from a dodge truck. The turbo has an internal wastegate preset to 7or8psi. I'm gonna try to get away with no BOV since its an automatic, and compressor surge sounds really sweet anyway.
The last thing I need is an oil return fitting. What are you using? and where exactly do I weld it? theres no fp block off on that motor is there?