Any reason NOT to run DRY KIT on TPI?
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Car: 1967 Camaro
Engine: 327
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 308's
Any reason NOT to run DRY KIT on TPI?
Assuming the fuel system is upgraded & up to the task, is there any reason why I shouldn't run a dry kit...125hp jetting at most??
I already own a TNT adjustable dry kit, so aside from doing a dry to wet conversion, wet kit suggestions aren't going to help me much.
I already own a TNT adjustable dry kit, so aside from doing a dry to wet conversion, wet kit suggestions aren't going to help me much.
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Car: 1967 Camaro
Engine: 327
Transmission: Turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 308's
Mine's an 85, with maf sensor. How are you guys running yours? Last "dry" kit I ran was on a 5.0 Mustang and that setup used nitrous plumbed to the fuel pressure regulator to spike the fuel pressure. Would I be OK like that, or should I go with bigger injectors and spray in front of, and depend on, maf sensor to enrichen a/f mixture?
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I think using the MAF on a 3rd gen to keep track of your nitrous might not work so well. I know the LT-1 and LS-1 guys do this sometimes but the MAF on a 3rd gen is different- and more fragile. The hotwire is basically a very fine wire filament, almost like a light bulb. I can imagine blasting cold nitrous through it could easily break it, even if it did read accurately (which I would also have my doubts about).
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Car: 1967 Camaro
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So...would it be wiser to convert my dry kit to a "wet" kit?
FWIW, the dry kit I have is an LS1 dry kit, which is designed to spray into the airbox just after the filter, but before the maf meter.
FWIW, the dry kit I have is an LS1 dry kit, which is designed to spray into the airbox just after the filter, but before the maf meter.
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Car: 1986 Saleen mustang.
Engine: Turbo 5.0.
Transmission: T5.
Axle/Gears: 3.55
I dont see why you couldnt use a 5.0 dry kit on a TPI car. Plumb the line to the FPR so that FP gets raised when the full throttle switch is activated. Same exact fuel system as a 5.0 stang with a FPR and return line.
Do the TPI intakes have problems with fuel puddleing in them like the 5.0 stangs do when using the wet kits?
Hell I am using a dry kit on my turbo 5.0 Saleen. Its rather small jetted at a 50 shot but it has been dead nuts relialbe for a few years now. The car has been dyno tuned.
kyle
Do the TPI intakes have problems with fuel puddleing in them like the 5.0 stangs do when using the wet kits?
Hell I am using a dry kit on my turbo 5.0 Saleen. Its rather small jetted at a 50 shot but it has been dead nuts relialbe for a few years now. The car has been dyno tuned.
kyle
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Car: 1967 Camaro
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I dont see why you couldnt use a 5.0 dry kit on a TPI car. Plumb the line to the FPR so that FP gets raised when the full throttle switch is activated. Same exact fuel system as a 5.0 stang with a FPR and return line.
Do the TPI intakes have problems with fuel puddleing in them like the 5.0 stangs do when using the wet kits?
Hell I am using a dry kit on my turbo 5.0 Saleen. Its rather small jetted at a 50 shot but it has been dead nuts relialbe for a few years now. The car has been dyno tuned.
kyle
Do the TPI intakes have problems with fuel puddleing in them like the 5.0 stangs do when using the wet kits?
Hell I am using a dry kit on my turbo 5.0 Saleen. Its rather small jetted at a 50 shot but it has been dead nuts relialbe for a few years now. The car has been dyno tuned.
kyle
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Car: 1986 Saleen mustang.
Engine: Turbo 5.0.
Transmission: T5.
Axle/Gears: 3.55
I've run the dry kit from NOS on about a half dozen 5.0 Mustangs. That was my original intention...to simply add a nitrous regulator like the NOS brand dry kit (for 5.0 Ford) has. Then only run like a 100 shot to stay somewhat conservative. Most recommend the "wet" kit for my Vette, but as big and full of obstacles as the plenum is, I can't even imagine that it not have a distribution problem with a wet kit...I may just sell it and not worry about it...
kyle
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Car: 1967 Camaro
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Not at all, but I'm getting ready to log off for the night...be back tomorrow afternoon...pick away...
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Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
It is OK to run a dry kit (and even inject it before the MAF),,, however, you must get more fuel. So install an AFPR and when you want to run the NO2, turn up the fuel pressure. While just doing normal cruising turn it down.
You have have to do some data logging or get a wide band O2 sensor to correctly identify the required fuel pressure while running the nitrous.
Edit: The MAF sensor most likely can not sense the correct air as the LS1 MAFs can, and of course will peak out at 254 gms/sec. The LS1 MAFs read up to 512 gms/sec. So turn up the fuel pressure or burn a special chip for nitrous
You have have to do some data logging or get a wide band O2 sensor to correctly identify the required fuel pressure while running the nitrous.
Edit: The MAF sensor most likely can not sense the correct air as the LS1 MAFs can, and of course will peak out at 254 gms/sec. The LS1 MAFs read up to 512 gms/sec. So turn up the fuel pressure or burn a special chip for nitrous
Last edited by doc; 11-27-2006 at 08:42 PM.
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Yes, there are a few setups that do that (the 4th gen “death bag of nitrous…”) but all they’re doing is instantly cooling the coils so the ecm dumps all the fuel it can… conveniently it happens to be about what you need for a 150 shot, which is safe for a rather large range (after all, most N2O companies jet their setups for around 6:1 AFRs).
That would never work for a 3rd gen maf (I’m pretty sure that it would just kill the maf), so you’re back to a traditional “meter some n2o at the back of the FPR to spike the fuel pressure and deliver more fuel through the injectors. At least this makes some attempt at metering the fuel delivery, you can change the jet in the assembly to change the amount of fuel added.
I honestly don’t see why in 99% of setups people don’t just spray a wet shot and at least get a consistent mixture and be done with it. Much more reliable, consistent and less demanding of the fuel system.
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Car: 1986 Saleen mustang.
Engine: Turbo 5.0.
Transmission: T5.
Axle/Gears: 3.55
The only time that I have ever heard of anyone running the nitrous infront of the MAF is on cars with a returnless fuel system. The NOS dry kits run a line from a solenoid to the FPR so that when the nitrous is engaged the FP is drasticly raised so that there is eough fuel for the car. On the returnless cars you need to run the nozzle infront of the MAF so that the MAF can compensate fo the extra fuel that is needed. On a TPI car with a return fuel system and a FPR there is no reason to worry about the MAF as the extra fuel supply comes from raising the FP at the regulator. Shouldnt be any problems running a small dry 100hp pill in a MAF or SD thirdgen.
kyle
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Car: 1986 Saleen mustang.
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Accurate? How? What, do you plan on mounting the nozzle in front of the MAF?
Yes, there are a few setups that do that (the 4th gen “death bag of nitrous…”) but all they’re doing is instantly cooling the coils so the ecm dumps all the fuel it can… conveniently it happens to be about what you need for a 150 shot, which is safe for a rather large range (after all, most N2O companies jet their setups for around 6:1 AFRs).
That would never work for a 3rd gen maf (I’m pretty sure that it would just kill the maf), so you’re back to a traditional “meter some n2o at the back of the FPR to spike the fuel pressure and deliver more fuel through the injectors. At least this makes some attempt at metering the fuel delivery, you can change the jet in the assembly to change the amount of fuel added.
I honestly don’t see why in 99% of setups people don’t just spray a wet shot and at least get a consistent mixture and be done with it. Much more reliable, consistent and less demanding of the fuel system.
Yes, there are a few setups that do that (the 4th gen “death bag of nitrous…”) but all they’re doing is instantly cooling the coils so the ecm dumps all the fuel it can… conveniently it happens to be about what you need for a 150 shot, which is safe for a rather large range (after all, most N2O companies jet their setups for around 6:1 AFRs).
That would never work for a 3rd gen maf (I’m pretty sure that it would just kill the maf), so you’re back to a traditional “meter some n2o at the back of the FPR to spike the fuel pressure and deliver more fuel through the injectors. At least this makes some attempt at metering the fuel delivery, you can change the jet in the assembly to change the amount of fuel added.
I honestly don’t see why in 99% of setups people don’t just spray a wet shot and at least get a consistent mixture and be done with it. Much more reliable, consistent and less demanding of the fuel system.
NOS makes a wet kit for the 5.0 mustangs that sandwichs between the two halfs of the intake manifold. This sytem works great. If anyone offers something similar for the TPI I think that is the way that I would go.
later
kyle
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Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Do not run wet kits on TPI's. They are meant to flow air only.
A few things will happen:
-Fuel puddling
-t/b, plenum, runner gaskets not meant for fuel
-fuel will wash carbon gunk into the cylinders
A few things will happen:
-Fuel puddling
-t/b, plenum, runner gaskets not meant for fuel
-fuel will wash carbon gunk into the cylinders
Last edited by formul8!!; 11-28-2006 at 12:21 PM.
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Car: 1967 Camaro
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Since I have no definitive answer...I think I have a solution...
The nitrous kit is on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MESE:IT&ih=006
The nitrous kit is on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MESE:IT&ih=006
#24
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The answer was never in question, in my opinion. I think you did the right thing.
83 Crossfire and I are the only ones who seem to be agreeing here on the reasons why it's not the kit you want. He said it better than I did, but the basic reasoning is the same.
Wet, dry, that isn't the core problem. Blowing nitrous through the MAF on 3rd gen is not a good idea (again, in my opinion) like it is on later engines that use a much different MAF and computer system.
83 Crossfire and I are the only ones who seem to be agreeing here on the reasons why it's not the kit you want. He said it better than I did, but the basic reasoning is the same.
Wet, dry, that isn't the core problem. Blowing nitrous through the MAF on 3rd gen is not a good idea (again, in my opinion) like it is on later engines that use a much different MAF and computer system.
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Convert to wet and don't look back. I've sprayed many a bottle of nitrous at the 150 jetting through my car and recently upped to a 200 shot. NOS sells a nice spray plate that is setup like the Mustangs, as does TNW. The maf on our TPI car's absolutly won't support a dry shot, it'll max and you'll get no real enrichment. The fooling the FPR trick works as some members on here have pointed out but I never liked that setup, I'de rather risk unequal distribution with the wet kit.
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well...I don't think I ever said I wanted to spray before the maf...that was someone else's debate in this thread.
Right now the kit is $75 away from hitting reserve of $250...if it doesn't sell, maybe I'll play around with wet and dry setups at low hp jettings to see what happens...or spray my pickup truck...
Right now the kit is $75 away from hitting reserve of $250...if it doesn't sell, maybe I'll play around with wet and dry setups at low hp jettings to see what happens...or spray my pickup truck...
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Nutshell, spraying before the maf won’t work.
Dry (boosting injector pressure with N2O), works, I’ve never thought it’s as accurate as it should be and puts too much strain on the fuel system, too much potential to run out of pump or lock up the injectors (hell, if you have those 2 covered then do it).
Wet… puddling is a non issue if you only spray @ WOT and at reasonable rpms (say above 3000rpm), if you’re spraying under other conditions “you’re doing it wrong” anyway.
WRT to “fuel will wash carbon gunk into the cylinders” not sure what to make of that… it’s already past the air filter, where else is it going to go? It’s stuff that was intended to be burned off in the engine anyway? Spray it once or twice and any build up will go away? Clean it out with some carb cleaner (and burn it off in the cylinders) anyway? I mean, the only way that stuff will not be burned off in the engine is if you disconnect the PVC, ditch the evap/tank vent and get rid of any overlap and any residual pressure in the cylinders when the intake valve opens or if you don’t run the engine. Complaining about that stuff is like complaining about the passing of time, sure you can bitch but if there isn’t anything you can do about it.
Dry (boosting injector pressure with N2O), works, I’ve never thought it’s as accurate as it should be and puts too much strain on the fuel system, too much potential to run out of pump or lock up the injectors (hell, if you have those 2 covered then do it).
Wet… puddling is a non issue if you only spray @ WOT and at reasonable rpms (say above 3000rpm), if you’re spraying under other conditions “you’re doing it wrong” anyway.
WRT to “fuel will wash carbon gunk into the cylinders” not sure what to make of that… it’s already past the air filter, where else is it going to go? It’s stuff that was intended to be burned off in the engine anyway? Spray it once or twice and any build up will go away? Clean it out with some carb cleaner (and burn it off in the cylinders) anyway? I mean, the only way that stuff will not be burned off in the engine is if you disconnect the PVC, ditch the evap/tank vent and get rid of any overlap and any residual pressure in the cylinders when the intake valve opens or if you don’t run the engine. Complaining about that stuff is like complaining about the passing of time, sure you can bitch but if there isn’t anything you can do about it.
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Car: 1991 TransAm GTA 350
Engine: 350 SBC TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I run the NOS Brand Throttle Body Spacer Wet kit and love it. One thing I did not do that I should have done was check my fuel pressure at WOT with the fuel solenoid open. The NOS kit is jetted assuming 28 PSI and my car was barely hitting 21. I installed a high volume fuel pump and had to completly rejet my system because the FP went up significantly. All is well now.
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