Two nights ago my Procharger grenaded. It was a P600B and it looks like it nuked a bearing. The problem is, as these units are not self-oiling, it dumped metal shavings into the oil pan via the oil return. I ripped the belts off and rerouted the intake (because there was metal being blown into the charge pipes as well) and changed the oil after driving it approximately 3 miles from the point of destruction. Unfortunately I didn't yet disconnect and cap the oil feed and return, so after driving it less than 500 feet the oil pan is full of metal shavings again. I won't make this mistake twice, tomorrow I'm capping the oil lines and removing the head unit and changing the oil AGAIN.

I'm making this post for three reasons: one, to inform those using prochargers that if they grenade they will dump metal into your intake (and oil pan if you have a 600B) two, to ask how many oil changes is it going to take to get this crap out of my engine, and three, since I'm running full synthetic would it be okay to run dino oil through it for the next few changes to flush it out? (synthetic is getting expensive)

 

wow man that sucks.......trying using some motor flush......you just dump it in, run the engine for a minute at idle, then change it......it shouldnt matter if its in the bottom of the pan, depending how big the pieces are. If the pieces are too big they'll get stuck to the pickup screen, if not the only thing they go through is the pump, then the filter before they can go through the motor......hopefully the magnetic plug pics some up too.

its perfectly fine to switch from synthetic to regular oil and back again......all the not mixing synt/conventional oil crap is a myth.......what do you think synthetic blends are made from? lol.

 

Changing oil just for flushing is not going to hurt it at all

although it has been proven that if you run syn. then switch to conventional and run that for many miles and then back to syn. again you can run into some problems. It all depends on how many miles are on the motor and what condition it is in. Most people make the mistake and dump syn. into a 75k motor that has always ran conventional and then they wonder why there engine is using oil and a faster rate then it was before.

 

After four oil changes there's still trace amounts of stuff on the dipstick, looks like glitter now though. I'm on my way to have some work done and have it changed again this morning. The motor has about 10k miles on it (was purpose-built to run large amounts of boost) so I'm hoping it holds up.

 

Mna thats sucks did it make a loud band when it went out or did it go quietly

 

What did procharger say?

 

I didn't even bother calling ATI. Frankly I'm appalled this design ever made it out the door.

And my motor is shot. Oil pressure is near zero at idle when warmed up. Time for a rebuild.