Intercooler Effectiveness? Results Within....
#1
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
Intercooler Effectiveness? Results Within....
I've always wanted to know how good this ATI three-core IC is, so I installed three digital air temperature gauges:
#1 (Left Gauge) - In my custom airbox which draws outside air from the opening in my cowl induction hood,
#2 (Center Gauge) - In the intake ducting after the blower but before the IC, &
#3 (Right Gauge) - In the intake ducting after the IC.
<IMG SRC ="http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/r8/1U63944.jpg">
The results were predictable. On a cold engine, all three gauges read ambient temps. As the engine warms up, #2's reading dramatically rises and #3 rises to slightly above ambient. At full operating engine temps (about 190 degrees) on a 100-degree day, typical readings are:
#1 Slightly above ambient (about 103 degrees),
#2 About 160 degrees, &
#3 About 105 degrees.
Summary:
The IC drops air temps to almost ambient!! Needless to say, I'm pleasantly surprised.
Note 1: I also noticed that the #2 reading seems to be a function of blower rpm. The higher it spins, the hotter the air. At highway speeds, the #2 reading is the hottest, i.e. 185 - 190 degrees. In normal city traffic, it reads about 155 - 160 degrees. Nevertheless the output (#3) still holds constant, about 100 degrees!!
Note 2:
The #3 temp gauge sensor is mounted at the outlet of the IC. I know the air temps between this point and the plenum rise, simply because of heat soak from the metal air ducting in the engine compartment. This is confirmed by the factory manifold air temp (stock location in the plenum) which sees readings in the 130 degree range. With my H2O injection, this figure is lowered to about 85 degrees, 15 degrees below ambient. This is why I feel H2O injection with an IC is the way to go.
------------------
Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Former Paxton (6-psig) with 50-hp nitrous: 12.043 @ 112.86 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): 12.056 @ 116.62 mph.
All stats are altitude corrected for 3,100 feet using NHRA's Altitude Correction Table.
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited August 15, 2001).]
#1 (Left Gauge) - In my custom airbox which draws outside air from the opening in my cowl induction hood,
#2 (Center Gauge) - In the intake ducting after the blower but before the IC, &
#3 (Right Gauge) - In the intake ducting after the IC.
<IMG SRC ="http://wsphotofews.excite.com/028/Xw/Dn/r8/1U63944.jpg">
The results were predictable. On a cold engine, all three gauges read ambient temps. As the engine warms up, #2's reading dramatically rises and #3 rises to slightly above ambient. At full operating engine temps (about 190 degrees) on a 100-degree day, typical readings are:
#1 Slightly above ambient (about 103 degrees),
#2 About 160 degrees, &
#3 About 105 degrees.
Summary:
The IC drops air temps to almost ambient!! Needless to say, I'm pleasantly surprised.
Note 1: I also noticed that the #2 reading seems to be a function of blower rpm. The higher it spins, the hotter the air. At highway speeds, the #2 reading is the hottest, i.e. 185 - 190 degrees. In normal city traffic, it reads about 155 - 160 degrees. Nevertheless the output (#3) still holds constant, about 100 degrees!!
Note 2:
The #3 temp gauge sensor is mounted at the outlet of the IC. I know the air temps between this point and the plenum rise, simply because of heat soak from the metal air ducting in the engine compartment. This is confirmed by the factory manifold air temp (stock location in the plenum) which sees readings in the 130 degree range. With my H2O injection, this figure is lowered to about 85 degrees, 15 degrees below ambient. This is why I feel H2O injection with an IC is the way to go.
------------------
Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Former Paxton (6-psig) with 50-hp nitrous: 12.043 @ 112.86 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): 12.056 @ 116.62 mph.
All stats are altitude corrected for 3,100 feet using NHRA's Altitude Correction Table.
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited August 15, 2001).]
#2
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Im glad SOMEBODY actually did this test. I never believe any companys claim about HP, temperature, taste great, less filling, etc....
#3
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Ummm... question??? Did you take your readings at idle or under boost while the car was moving?
#4
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JAYDUBB:
Ummm... question??? Did you take your readings at idle or under boost while the car was moving?</font>
Ummm... question??? Did you take your readings at idle or under boost while the car was moving?</font>
Willie
#6
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Will you post the "under boost" results when you get the chance?
#7
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Supercharged and Intercooled
Transmission: 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10 bolt 3.42
Also, what amount of boost is lost through the intercooler?
------------------
'91 Formula
383CI Supercharged
5-speed
3.42
12.34@117.04
on Drag Radials
------------------
'91 Formula
383CI Supercharged
5-speed
3.42
12.34@117.04
on Drag Radials
Trending Topics
#8
Supporter/Moderator
Cool info! (heee-haw! Pad pun...) What thermocouples or temp senders are you using? It seems the response time for thermocouples is atleast a second (going from the thermocouple time constants shown on Omega.com tech section). I'm curious to see your boost results. I'll be doing the same shortly. Did you weld bungs or tap the ducting for the senders? TIA!
A.
A.
#9
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willie, love the meters in the sig tray. was that a custom thing. I would like to mount my nos and fuel pressure guages there. What was the hardest part about doing that? drop me an e-mail if you have time.
------------------
"Why StockBastard?" you might ask. Well...
84 Berlinetta body w/custom paint.
92 front/rear bumper and ground affects.
89 IROC 350tpi engine w/lots of mods.
87 3.73 BW possi rear w/disk brakes.
86 interior w/IROC dash.
And finally, stock Vet rims from the early 70s.(same ones used on the 69ss)
ALL IN ONE CAR!!!
13.9@98.7
soon to be juicin'
hopin' for 12s
[This message has been edited by StockBastard (edited August 15, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by StockBastard (edited August 15, 2001).]
------------------
"Why StockBastard?" you might ask. Well...
84 Berlinetta body w/custom paint.
92 front/rear bumper and ground affects.
89 IROC 350tpi engine w/lots of mods.
87 3.73 BW possi rear w/disk brakes.
86 interior w/IROC dash.
And finally, stock Vet rims from the early 70s.(same ones used on the 69ss)
ALL IN ONE CAR!!!
13.9@98.7
soon to be juicin'
hopin' for 12s
[This message has been edited by StockBastard (edited August 15, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by StockBastard (edited August 15, 2001).]
#10
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
I'll try to answer everyone's questions. Hopefully, I won't forget anyone.
Will you post the "under boost" results when you get the chance?
I'll try to observe these gauges the next time I'm at the track. I don't think it will be for a while though because I'm planning a few more mods. These won't be done until the weather cools off some. Here in Arizona, it won't be until October or November...
Also, what amount of boost is lost through the intercooler?
I don't know. The only way to tell is to hook up boost gauges to each of the locations I installed the air temp sensors. Do you have any idea where I can mount MORE gauges?
What thermocouples or temp senders are you using?
I don't know much about these gauges or sending units. The sending units are encased in shrink tubing, about 1-inch long and 1/4-inch in diameter. It is wired with a hot, ground and a third wire to the gauge.
Did you weld bungs or tap the ducting for the senders?
I custom fabricated the "parts" to seal the hole I drilled out of the 3-inch rubber hose used to connect steel tubing contained in ATI's kit. This included brass fittings and grinding metric washers to the appropriate size and thickness. Needless to say, they are pressure tight.
Willie, love the meters in the sig tray. Was that a custom thing?
Completely custom. I made all the parts for it. First, I ground the existing ash tray off, then enlarged the square hole. I used 1/4-inch thick smoked plexiglas cut to fill the square hole. It was then glued. I also made out of sheet metal a three-pod gauge holder. Each side of this piece has wings that are perpendicular. I then drilled very small holes on the sides of the console (with the top half off) and into the wings. Then I used small self-tapping screws and mounted the three-pod panel. Once the top of the console is re-installed, the lip of it hides the small screws.
Willie
Will you post the "under boost" results when you get the chance?
I'll try to observe these gauges the next time I'm at the track. I don't think it will be for a while though because I'm planning a few more mods. These won't be done until the weather cools off some. Here in Arizona, it won't be until October or November...
Also, what amount of boost is lost through the intercooler?
I don't know. The only way to tell is to hook up boost gauges to each of the locations I installed the air temp sensors. Do you have any idea where I can mount MORE gauges?
What thermocouples or temp senders are you using?
I don't know much about these gauges or sending units. The sending units are encased in shrink tubing, about 1-inch long and 1/4-inch in diameter. It is wired with a hot, ground and a third wire to the gauge.
Did you weld bungs or tap the ducting for the senders?
I custom fabricated the "parts" to seal the hole I drilled out of the 3-inch rubber hose used to connect steel tubing contained in ATI's kit. This included brass fittings and grinding metric washers to the appropriate size and thickness. Needless to say, they are pressure tight.
Willie, love the meters in the sig tray. Was that a custom thing?
Completely custom. I made all the parts for it. First, I ground the existing ash tray off, then enlarged the square hole. I used 1/4-inch thick smoked plexiglas cut to fill the square hole. It was then glued. I also made out of sheet metal a three-pod gauge holder. Each side of this piece has wings that are perpendicular. I then drilled very small holes on the sides of the console (with the top half off) and into the wings. Then I used small self-tapping screws and mounted the three-pod panel. Once the top of the console is re-installed, the lip of it hides the small screws.
Willie
#11
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Car: 87 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 89 IROC 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 rebuilt w/TCI kit
Axle/Gears: 9" from 57 ranchero unsure gears.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Willie:
Note 1: I also noticed that the #2 reading seems to be a function of blower rpm. The higher it spins, the hotter the air.
</font>
Note 1: I also noticed that the #2 reading seems to be a function of blower rpm. The higher it spins, the hotter the air.
</font>
------------------
'87 Monte Carlo SS,with '89 IROC 350,700 trans, blew up 3.73 posi stuck with crappy 2.73's neeed gears! hooker headers, flowmaster 2 1/2" exhaust true dualls, recently installed a set of alum vette heads 58cc, new cam for a paxton, recently installed paxton, OMG need a posi bad. So if anyone knows where a buick GN 8.5" rear is let me know.
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Yup, it is called adibiatic (sp?) heating. it happens in ANY compressed gas atomosphere. some systems are worse @ it than others (Roots) & some are better (Turbo's) & some fall in between (Centrifugal).
BW
BW
#13
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Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
Hey nice shoe Willie, is it new? looks new
No really, that is really cool, I also love the guage mounting you did. I can't believe all the little gadgets and read-outs you have in your car. Very cool.
------------------
'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
No really, that is really cool, I also love the guage mounting you did. I can't believe all the little gadgets and read-outs you have in your car. Very cool.
------------------
'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
#14
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Car: 1986 Iroc Camaro
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4 Jr. Raptor
Hey, i was just wondering, has anyone ever fitted a fan to an intercooler? I wonder if that would help reduce temperature some, if at all.
------------------
1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome
------------------
1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome
#15
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Location: Lk. Ronkonkoma, Long Island N.Y., U.S.A.
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Supercharged and Intercooled
Transmission: 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10 bolt 3.42
I'd like to see the temps at some boost. Can you provide?
------------------
'91 Formula
383CI Supercharged
5-speed
3.42
12.34@117.04, 1.91 60Ft.
on Drag Radials
------------------
'91 Formula
383CI Supercharged
5-speed
3.42
12.34@117.04, 1.91 60Ft.
on Drag Radials
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