Willie

iTrader: (1)

AWESOME BABY!!

<IMG SRC = "http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427158&a=10788180&p=40169211&Sequence=0&r1es=high">

The hardest part of the install was trying to decipher ATI's instructions. Thanks to Larry and Darrin who both bought the D1SC kit before I did, I was able to install it without any major hangups.

And here's what it looks like from beneath:

<IMG SRC ="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427158&a=10788180&p=40169208&Sequence=0&r1es=high">

The intercooler air scoop comes with the kit, but I fabricated the triangular "sides" to angle the scoop lower for even more air. It looks lower than it really is from this angle. The bottom is still about 1-1/2 inches higher than the stock radiator air dam's lowest edge.

I am truly pleased with the purchase -- well worth the looks I get and the sound... :-) I definitely recommend this setup for anyone who's looking at superchargers.

My only concern is O2 sensor voltage. I will have to do more research before I go all out, which would include answers to the following questions. Does anyone know:

1) How to calculate injector size and/or
2) How to determine injector duty cycle?

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Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
12.57 @ 111 mph.
12.04 @ 114 mph (50-hp nitrous).
http://members.optushome.com/au/downunder1/rides/willie/willie.html

1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.

[This message has been edited by Willie (edited February 05, 2001).]

theformula

:drool:

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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton SN93, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm wires, fastchip, Bosch O2sensor, Bosch in-line pump(w/stock pump), SLP headers & catback,short shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,170* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

Guido

Looks awesome Willie!!!

Time for you to get some track times with it now!

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech stuffed EFI 406 in progress
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Cluelessness: There are no stupid questions, but there are a lot of inquisitive idiots.

superiroc

wow looks great can't wait to see what she does in the 1/4

89ProchargedROC

willie....bad *** , but i want to ask a question. how in the hell did you get the air dam to fit right? with my three core i cant get to all the bolt holes to bolt it up? do i have it bolted up wrong? i dont think so...looks just like yours in the pic

Dan W

There is an estimating formula to get you in the ball park for injector sizing. .55 is probably a better BSFC number to use for a super charged application. Use a multiplier to factor in duty cycle... .8 to .9
http://prestage.com/carmath/calc_fuel.asp

Are you planning on running DFI or some other aftermarket spark / fuel controler?

BenIroc

Willie, it looks really good. I´m planning a trip to the states in the future and I´m very
interested in buying one D1SC for my Iroc
then.How much did you pay for the kit? I
guess it costs over 3 K .
Thanks
Ben
89 Iroc, TFS heads,210-220, 480-480, 112 cam,
ford 9´´ rear end, etc etc.......

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

Wow looks great.! I'd like to route an intercooler like that on my vortech, it's posssible right?

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SUPERCHARGED 87 GTA: Blk/Gld w/Superam, 355cid Trickflows, forged pistons 9.5:1. Auto 2,600 stall, 3.45 9 bolt disc, Best time & mph (Naturally Aspirated): 13.567 @ 101.900 w/ a poor 60ft. Best mph: 104.3 *This car is 100% NYS emissions legal, w/ all emissions controls!* "If you want to have a fast car, hang out w/ those who do!"
http:// www.community.webtv.net/munks87/JustinsGTApage.com
VORTECH S-TRIM, INSTALLATION IN PROGRESS: 10 & 15 LB&gt; PULLEYS, CUSTOM HKS RACE BYPASS, CUSTOM DUCTING W/ COLD AIR, SWAPPING TO SERPENTINE, & MANY EXTRAS! BEST TIME: 11'S I GUESS. WE'LL SEE IN SPRING!

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

damn....looks good man...looks WAY better than that Paxton so how much did the setup run you? Is the D1 that much better than the P-1SC?

------------------
Originating member of the SJNEP Crew
Rice..It's whats for dinner!
All new projects put on hold till its fixed..whenever that is
Check out MyGTA
***AOL IM RiceEatinGTA***
Tony

fly89gta

iTrader: (1)

also is that a self contained blower or do u need to drill oil lines?

maniacc

WOW WILLIE!!!!

What's that's big hair dryer lookin thang' next to the alternator!!!! (j/k)....

Dorian @ ATI called me today, and said they are sending out mine and Darren's brackets, we should receive them in a day or so...WooHooo....

BENIROC, the system costs between $3500 to $4000 us dollars, depending on if you want the blower unit and/or the intake piping polished.

JUSTIN 87 GTA, anything is possible, you just might have to do alittle fabricating to hook the blower to the first pipe....

FLY89GTA, the difference between the P1sc and the D1 is the volume of air that the blowers produce, which in turn is the amount of hp that they will support...and yes the D1sc is a self contained unit

on a side note, for all that are looking into purchasing a D1sc, ATI
NO LONGER offers a 12 rib belt system with the 10# pulley (4.00"), you can only get a 8rib belt system, but if you step up to the 12# pulley (3.70") you can get the 12 rib belt system...

later,



------------------
MÅN¡ÅÇ ©
88 IROC 5.7L,edelbrock TES,random tech cat,borla exhaust,chip,sfc,accel wires,airfoil,k&n's,ETC..
and NOW supercharged!!!
http://maniac.megamania.com

BenIroc

Fly 89 GTA,I know that the kit is self contained ( no oil lines no punch in the
oilpan ), but I don´t know the price of the kit.
Later
Ben

BenIroc

Well, now I know the price of the kit.
Thanks Maniacc

Willie

iTrader: (1)

Hey Maniacc, you beat me to it!! It looks like you've answered all the questions... cool!! I've been running with the blower for almost two weeks now with no belt "walkage". In this timeframe, I've taken out TWO Camaro SS's already!! One was a '96 and the other was a 2001... neither came close guys!! Now to kill a C5 on the street.... already done this at the track with my Paxton, but I've got to get another one... or maybe even that Viper I've seen tooling around my subdivision....hmmm... I've had a bunch of ricers pick on me, but I won't waste my time and gas on these guys. The only time I race these guys is at the track when I don't have a choice who I get paired up with. These track results justify why I don't race them on the street... there's no comparison.

I bought my kit from David Back @ Tenacious Performance (dback@tenperf.com). It was the best price I could find and I was able to get the kit without the FMU. (FMU's leave a bad taste in my mouth. More later.) And because of FedEx's screwup, shipping was free.

On the air scoop:
The holes do not line up with the intercooler. But because I fabricated the triangular wedges, it was not an issue to get it bolted up. I need to take a pic from directly in front of the car, so you can see how low it is (it isn't).

I won't be taking it to the track for a while until I get it "tuned". Presently, I'm relying only on my pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure when in boost -- no FMU or supplemental fuel supply system. I do not know for a fact if this is sufficient. So I will gradually increase engine rpm's at WOT while recording with my Auto Xray and keeping a close eye on my O2 bargraph. If I lean out, I'll experiment with my base fuel pressure setting. If this proves not enough, I'll have to do some more research on what to do. It will either be larger injectors/PROM calibrations or Carroll's Superfueler system. I will not use an FMU simply because it increases fuel pressure linearly -- don't like that idea of not being able to "tune" it at various points along the boost curve.

Willie

[This message has been edited by Willie (edited February 06, 2001).]

Tom Keliher

As always, your projects look damned fine. Damned professional. Good job!

You still coming out this way later this year?

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

Willie

iTrader: (1)

Tom,

Thanks a bunch. I've seen your car on video and in magazines, so it means a lot when I receive a compliment from someone of your stature.

Only a few local guys know that installing the ATI was the culmination of a six month long project. It started with removing the Paxton. Then it was converting to serpentine. The most difficult step was completely rewiring all my underhood circuitry. As you've seen my car's webpage (credit goes to DownUnderIroc), I've added a lot of circuitry. I added these circuits over a period of two years, one at a time. So it became a mish-mash of wires and relay strewn all over the place. I redrew all the circuits, then placed all the relays in one location. Take a look on my radiator support crossmember in front of the charcoal cannister. All my wiring was included in the huge wire loom seen running parallel to the engine on the frame next to the steering column and running next to the relays:

<IMG SRC = "http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427158&a=10788180&p=40288615&Sequence=0&res=high">

I also had to relocate all my fuses. They are seen in two fuse panels located on a "floating" tray on the radiator support crossmember on top of the battery:

<IMG SRC = "http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427158&a=10788180&p=40288616&Sequence=0&res=high">

Then I relocated the relays associated with my fog lamps , DRL circuitry, Hella E-code conversion lamp wiring and secondary coolant fan circuit (my design). These are located underneath the front end panel (where my air filters used to be located) and are unseen. All this took over one month to finish. Whew!!!

After all that, I was ready for the ATI. Whew!!

And as for our California trip, we have not planned it yet, but will probably go in June. Unfortunately, it won't be in my car. It will be in a rental. I'll keep you informed.

Willie

DownUnderIROC

Agreed!! Congratulations on the new setup, it looks great.



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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z. 305 TPI. 700R4
14.6 secs @ 93 MPH.
2.14 sixty foot.
Homepage

Trevor 91 Formula

Ok thats how you get the radiator hose from getting rubbed through by the pully. I was having that problem on my P600B 8 rib setup.

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L98 w/ ATI ProCharger P600B 9psi, 2 core intercooler. (New L98 coming soon)
Pro-Built Stage 3 700-R4 w/ Continental 2400 stall TC
C5 wheels and tires.

92 Firebird Convertible- L03, 700-R4
Bone Stock
Me, my car and I
"Speed kills but it makes me feel alive" - White Zombie
Crazy street-racing idiot member of the All-Powerful Nor-Cal crew.

Guido

i had problems on my 8-rib vortech. Not big problems. I ended up cutting the hose end down a little so it didnt stick out so far.

Looks really good Willie! *thumbs up*

Willie

iTrader: (1)

I have about 1/4-inch clearance between the radiator hose and 12-rib belt. Not only did I have to cut down the hose, but also about 1/4-inch off the radiator snout. The plastic "retainer" located on the upper radiator mounting bracket must be completely cut off too. Now the hose hugs the upper radiator mounting bracket naturally but as insurance, I used a wire tie-down to keep the hose from separating away from the radiator. In the near future, I'm going to fabricate a guard to prevent a broken belt from ripping the radiator hose.

Willie

D_Amlee

Looks pretty good there, Willie!

ZZ3Astro

Looks awesome but I have a complaint..

Is the air inlet going to remain as it is, pulling air from the hottest part of the engine compartment, or are you going to route it to a cold air inlet? That is my biggest pet peeve about nearly every ATI installation I've seen.

Steve

Willie

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you Steve. I have gone into depth on how to solve the "hottest" air intake on the market today. Once I finished the installation, I realized why the horrible air filter placement -- there is no other location for it.

Here is my plan:
First, I'm planning on installing multiple MAT sensors, at the intake, before and after the intercooler and at the original location (in the plenum). These sensors will be switchable so I can literally see on my Auto Xray the air temperatures at these locations. If the air temperature in the plenum is elevated beyond "normal" temps, I will install a cowl induction hood with the underhood raised portion enclosed (the inlet will remain open of course). Then I will cut a section of this enclosed area that will match up to a custom-made open-topped air filter enclosure made out of heat absorbing material. The filter will remain in the same location, but it will draw air from the cowl area -- essentially making it aa cold-air system.

Although I like the looks of the stock hood much better, I cannot come up with any other solution.

Willie

[This message has been edited by Willie (edited February 10, 2001).]

Matt_91RSTPI

Anyone have have experience with a blower installation on a car with a BeCool radiator? From the picks Willie posted it doesn't look like the two would work since the larger BeCool radiator slants back a couple of inches farther than the stock one.

Matt

superiroc

When i was at bristal this fall a guy in a red iroc had the D1 just like yours with a mini ram. He had a nice 4 inck(i think) pipe that moved the filter to directly on top of the mini ram in line with the MR. He did have a cowl hood with the filter only inches from the window.

89ProchargedROC

you mean like this one superiroc.... He also had a very large cowl to make it like that though too.






[This message has been edited by 89ProchargedROC (edited February 14, 2001).]

superiroc

thats the one.

jRaskell

Would it be possible to route air from one of the ram air hoods that imitate the fourth gen trans am ram air hoods to that location? Would there be enough room to provide enough flow? What about a custom 'offset' ram air hood shifted to the drivers side and back enough to provide enough outside air to the filter? Obviously there are aesthetic considerations involved in this option, but would one of the readily available aftermarket ram air hoods be adequate, or would a custom hood be necessary? (I also understand some fabrication will still have to be done with an aftermarket hood to direct the airflow into the filter)

MJT

Yes, you can. My brother has a D-1 with a BeCool radiator and stock, dual electric fans on his 88 Iroc. The BeCool radiator comes with a stainless steel strip with holes drilled in it, so you can still mount the original upper fan shroud/mount
with the extra tilt the radiator mounts in. BUT, we found out the only thing keeping the radiator from tilting further back to the original location of the stock radiator, is the rubber mounts that locate/seperate the A/C condensor from the radiator. We simply trimmed about a half inch off the end, still leaving plenty in between the two, and we were able to mount the BeCool without the stainless extension. We also had to cut about a half inch off the radiator snout, and the radiator hose. We zip-tied the hose to the upper support, just like Willie, to keep the hose from getting in the way of the belt when it would expand at higher temperatures. The drivers side fan motor barealy clears the supercharger idler pulley, even though it's rotated per the ATI instructions, but is still plenty of clearance.

Oh, and to the guy who mentioned the air inlet location. It looks worse than it actually is. We had my brother's D-1 pumping out 12 p.s.i. of boost (pullied for 15, but it's on a 377 stroker with full ported aftermarket intake system, AFR heads, cam, etc.)on a 90* day, and the intake temps didn't go over 155*. Not too shabby!


[This message has been edited by MJT (edited February 15, 2001).]