JRoy91RS

First of all, I would just like to say hello to everyone. I used to come here a couple of years back, but have been out of touch for a while. I'd like to know if anyone makes a stroker kit for the 305, if so how much is it, and is it worth it or is it more cost effective to go to a 350? What size heads (cc) could I use? How much juice (horses) can I squeeze out of the 305 w/o supercharging or nitrous? Would an LT1 be a good way to go? My 305 is missing bad (burnt valve I think) and I need some advice as to what to do. Thanks

Brett

Hmm, I know one person who has built a 334 out of a 305 but I personally think it is more work and expense than the return you would get. But it also depends on how you're going to set it up. Andrew built his 334 but used a stock LT4 cam (not the hot cam) and didn't touch his heads. It's a lot better motor than it was as a 305 but the cam doesn't match his intake system's capabilities.

An LT1 is an interesting alternative. You probably figured it out from my sig already but that's what I did. I've just had a string of bad luck with the swap starting from a burnt ECU to a cracked block (but that second one there was my fault). The trick is the TBI that your car has currently. I think the deciding factor is whether you are subject to emissions testing or not. If not then feel free to carb your engine, otherwise I might look into putting a TPI unit on the car. There's an article on this board for it.

The least hassle you would have would be to overbore the cylinders on the 305, step up to some nice aluminum heads of your choice and pick a cam that you can live with. I think the TBI will limit your choices and your peak power so it might be worth it to swap over to TPI. I don't know for sure but I bet you could use the same computer with a different prom since TBI is essenyially batch fire with two injectors. But I don't know enough about it to say for sure. Call my buddy Marcus and see what he can tell you. He's from Texas and makes a living swapping TPI L98, LT1 and LS1 engines into other cars - he could tell you what to do for a swap or you can send him the wiring harness and he'll make it all work for you. Here's his number --> 956-287-8582 Tell him I referred you to him.

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1991 RS LT1
every imaginable bolt-on, and an all-forged 355 on the way with an ATI following in '01

2000 C5 Coupe
black/black 6-spd, optional polished rims, 'mostly' stock....

"So what DOES the back of a Mustang look like?"

Brett

sorry, had to add this.

Is that not the coolest number of posts on my last reply or what?

JRoy91RS

Thanks a bunch, Brett, I do appreciate the info. The LT1 I was considering already has the FI setup, computer, and Wiring. Did yours have it, too, or was that the reason you had the problems? Is there something inherently wrong in the LT1 that gives it the problems you had? I considered going carb, too, but have been told not to go without fuel injection, even if I have to settle for upgrading a TBI (I don't drive my car every day, but it's the only vehicle I have). I have always thought the predator carbs were kinda neat, though. Thanks again.

James

Brett

My problems were just with my own mistakes. I dropped a wrench one time when I was finishing up the swap and it connected from the alternator pickup to the unconnected ground wire block that I had rigged for the injectors and the computer. That was a $500 mistake that I swore about for weeks! So no there is no inherent problem with LT1s. Just pay close attention to the one you buy. My problem with the block cracking came when a wrist pin let go from a piston. The block may have alreayd had a hairline crack from the accident the car had been in and was then increased as I drove it, but more than likely it just cracked when the piston got lodged in the cylinder.

You seem to be interested in building the motor a bit. Definitely call Marcus since he builds and installs these engines often.

In answer to your question, I lucked out in that I got the entire wire harness, engine, radiator (not needed), exhaust (also not needed), and the full accessory bracket. the only thing I couldn't make work was the 4th gen AC, but I planeed to remove my AC anyway so that was not an issue. You can keep your AC by using a different accessory bracket.

E-mail me with any questions you might come up with on the LT1 swap. There are also a number of other guys on the site that have done the swap and can offer good advice as well. Whichever way you go as far as your motor, just make sure you plan it out in as much detail as possible before you tear the car apart. I thought I had figured almsot everything out before I yanked my old 305 TBI, but I was VERY wrong. Marcus helped me figure everything out and he did an excellent job on the wiring. Good luck with the car!


Funny, it seems to me that almost ALL of the 3rd gen guys with LT1s are RS owners. We must have some of the coolest sleeper cars on the street! I used to LOVE telling people I had an LT1 and watching their eyes bug when I opened the hood. And vice versa I got the chance to run a 5.0 LX before the motor blew and when he asked I told him I only had a factory 305 TBI! Whether or not he believed me I don't know - but it was fun.

IrocZ335

Powerhouse makes an engine kit specifically for the 305 stroker (335). www.enginekits.com
You can make 450 horsepower with good heads and intake. I'll be using 190cc heads with my setup. Check out my post under Power Adder; ATI equipped 335.

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1986 Iroc Z 305
3.23 posi-rear
ported mass-air
custom ram-air
removed air pump, converter, straight pipe no muffler
0-60 5.5 sec
1/4 mile at 102mph
top speed 160mph (racing a mustang)
est 285hp
fiberglass hood
$2000 Alpine stereo hit 135 in spl comp.