Button instead of WOT switch?
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Button instead of WOT switch?
So I ordered the NOS sniper kit, and was wondering, I have seen a B&M megashifer handle that had a push button to engage the nitrous, can i do this instead of the WOT switch? cause then i can control what RPMS i use nitrous instead of buying a window switch........plus the cool factor would be wicked high
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Car: A Camaro
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I'd say do the thumb switch plus the WOT switch for extra insurance. WOT Switches are like $3 at radio shack but it's a lot of insurance.
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Car: 1987 Z28
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you mean like wire them together? so i can only push the button at WOT? not a bad idea.......plus the kit comes with a wot switch
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Car: 1984 Corvette
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Originally Posted by EvilCartman
I use the button on my Hurst shifter for the nitrous, no WOT switch
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
WOT switch would cause me more problems than it's worth. Never had an issue with just 1 single button and an arming switch. Guess what, I also don't run an oil or fuel pressure switch holy shizzy, my car is going to explode!!!
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#9
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
For me it would mean one more thing that could fail in the system, one more thing under the hood/dash I don't want, not being able to purge the system at part throttle. I don't have a regular purge valved hooked up just yet. It's easier (for me) to just let off the button and keep on the gas if the car starts to do something weird. This is how my friends have run theirs for years without problem and so far, I have had no problem. We can keep going back and forth on why or why not to run a WOT switch but it comes down to personal preference.
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Car: 1986 Iroc
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So what your saying is you want to hold the botton when you want spray and then let go when you dont.......Sounds stupid to me.
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Originally Posted by grover85
So what your saying is you want to hold the botton when you want spray and then let go when you dont.......Sounds stupid to me.
But when the "oh sh*t!" happens, you will let off the gas first.
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally Posted by grover85
So what your saying is you want to hold the botton when you want spray and then let go when you dont.......Sounds stupid to me.
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Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 carb'd
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
With a mechanical WOT switch there is no way it can't do what it's supposed to...you put it on, you hit Wide Open Throttle, the lever is pushed, activation.....Ta-da! :-)
Here's one of our TPI WOT switches
Here's one of our TPI WOT switches
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I guess I think the button is just to fast and the furious. Personally I will be running a wot switch and a window switch.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Curtis, that's gonna rock! sniper, is that the plate system? what jetting (HP) are you going to use? stock shortblock?
I was thinking about getting this type of thing in the future, do you know how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle in our neck of the woods? I have no idea, so i'm a little skeptical of it being too $$$ to use...
I think you should have a WOT switch, AND some other switch of your choice, either a momentary, or a toggle. Normally people toggle it on, take off, then when they hit WOT, it kicks on, until you let off the throttle. with dual switches inline, both conditions have to be satisfied before the NO2 is used, ie, WOT, and switch on. It's REALLY BAD to use NO2 when you aren't at WOT, so hence using that WOT switch. However, using a toggle, and switching it on, or using a momentary button isn't much difference. I wanted to use a MOM button on my shifter. Idea being, hit WOT, and then when I want, push and hold the button for the power, then release when I want to stop it. Or let off throttle. That way NO2 isn't activated at WOT right on the line, which would cause major tire smoke, and less *move*. I can wait until I wind the motor up more, and car is moving faster, then hit it.
I was thinking about getting this type of thing in the future, do you know how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle in our neck of the woods? I have no idea, so i'm a little skeptical of it being too $$$ to use...
I think you should have a WOT switch, AND some other switch of your choice, either a momentary, or a toggle. Normally people toggle it on, take off, then when they hit WOT, it kicks on, until you let off the throttle. with dual switches inline, both conditions have to be satisfied before the NO2 is used, ie, WOT, and switch on. It's REALLY BAD to use NO2 when you aren't at WOT, so hence using that WOT switch. However, using a toggle, and switching it on, or using a momentary button isn't much difference. I wanted to use a MOM button on my shifter. Idea being, hit WOT, and then when I want, push and hold the button for the power, then release when I want to stop it. Or let off throttle. That way NO2 isn't activated at WOT right on the line, which would cause major tire smoke, and less *move*. I can wait until I wind the motor up more, and car is moving faster, then hit it.
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Car: 1984 Corvette
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Transmission: 4L80E with TCI T-Com
Originally Posted by Sonix
I think you should have a WOT switch, AND some other switch of your choice, either a momentary, or a toggle. Normally people toggle it on, take off, then when they hit WOT, it kicks on, until you let off the throttle. with dual switches inline, both conditions have to be satisfied before the NO2 is used, ie, WOT, and switch on. It's REALLY BAD to use NO2 when you aren't at WOT, so hence using that WOT switch. However, using a toggle, and switching it on, or using a momentary button isn't much difference. I wanted to use a MOM button on my shifter. Idea being, hit WOT, and then when I want, push and hold the button for the power, then release when I want to stop it. Or let off throttle. That way NO2 isn't activated at WOT right on the line, which would cause major tire smoke, and less *move*. I can wait until I wind the motor up more, and car is moving faster, then hit it.
That is the way to do it!
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
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ya but then again put this into perspective, what if you have some nice tires that can get some serious traction off the line. I dont know if your racing on the street or on the track but im going to be ordering a nitrous system with WOT because i have a good set of tires, so i think it wont matter just as long as you have the tires and suspension to put the power to the asphalt
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Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
yes it can be one more thing that failed, and it has for me before and it was a head ache, but id rather spend an extra 20 mins wiring a wot switch, then to spend a week or 2 and countless dollars removing, rebuilding, and replacing and engine because you let off the gas and not the button and spraying at idle...can never be too safe in my mind thats why i have wot switch, fpss, and a window switch
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally Posted by grover85
I guess I think the button is just to fast and the furious.
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Car: 87 T/A
Engine: built NOS 350
Transmission: manual 700r4
I have been using nitrous for the past 10 years. Always had automatic transmissions, so I wired it with an arming switch and a button with a relay. Never any problems. You only really need the wot switch if using a manual trans, so the nitrous will switch off when shifting...
On the other hand, I found that not having a wot switch makes me faster on street tires or in any situation where traction is limited, because what I can do is keep the button pushed, so the nitrous is going at full flow and at the same time finely lift the throttle so I don't blow my tires away...It works awasome, but its not for the novice, because You really have to have a good feel for the throttle and be able to make fine transitions from 100% open to like 85-90% open and back. Never tried this on a vacum secondary carb though, might not work as good as the DP...
On the other hand, I found that not having a wot switch makes me faster on street tires or in any situation where traction is limited, because what I can do is keep the button pushed, so the nitrous is going at full flow and at the same time finely lift the throttle so I don't blow my tires away...It works awasome, but its not for the novice, because You really have to have a good feel for the throttle and be able to make fine transitions from 100% open to like 85-90% open and back. Never tried this on a vacum secondary carb though, might not work as good as the DP...
#22
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Originally Posted by Sonix
Curtis, that's gonna rock! sniper, is that the plate system? what jetting (HP) are you going to use? stock shortblock?
I was thinking about getting this type of thing in the future, do you know how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle in our neck of the woods? I have no idea, so i'm a little skeptical of it being too $$$ to use...
I think you should have a WOT switch, AND some other switch of your choice, either a momentary, or a toggle. Normally people toggle it on, take off, then when they hit WOT, it kicks on, until you let off the throttle. with dual switches inline, both conditions have to be satisfied before the NO2 is used, ie, WOT, and switch on. It's REALLY BAD to use NO2 when you aren't at WOT, so hence using that WOT switch. However, using a toggle, and switching it on, or using a momentary button isn't much difference. I wanted to use a MOM button on my shifter. Idea being, hit WOT, and then when I want, push and hold the button for the power, then release when I want to stop it. Or let off throttle. That way NO2 isn't activated at WOT right on the line, which would cause major tire smoke, and less *move*. I can wait until I wind the motor up more, and car is moving faster, then hit it.
I was thinking about getting this type of thing in the future, do you know how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle in our neck of the woods? I have no idea, so i'm a little skeptical of it being too $$$ to use...
I think you should have a WOT switch, AND some other switch of your choice, either a momentary, or a toggle. Normally people toggle it on, take off, then when they hit WOT, it kicks on, until you let off the throttle. with dual switches inline, both conditions have to be satisfied before the NO2 is used, ie, WOT, and switch on. It's REALLY BAD to use NO2 when you aren't at WOT, so hence using that WOT switch. However, using a toggle, and switching it on, or using a momentary button isn't much difference. I wanted to use a MOM button on my shifter. Idea being, hit WOT, and then when I want, push and hold the button for the power, then release when I want to stop it. Or let off throttle. That way NO2 isn't activated at WOT right on the line, which would cause major tire smoke, and less *move*. I can wait until I wind the motor up more, and car is moving faster, then hit it.
but yeah, as for the switch im gonna have the arming switch in the ashtray, then the WOT switch on the carb, then a momentary switch on the B&M mega shifter (i ordered the handle from summit) so i think that should work out alright
#23
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
D&W eh? they're doing the work for me too, Rod there is pretty good.
What are the specs (and price )that you're looking at for your 350? if you don't mind me asking. When are you hoping to have it ready?
damn, you musta made out better then me on your taxes...
400HP 350, and N20? geez, you're gonna be working hard to stay alive with that...
my 350 (d&w did machining on it, i'm building it) Rod thinks i'm dreaming to expect as high as 350HP, due to 416 heads. I'm thinking 350HP at least, but hey, i'll probably put it on a chassis dyno to put my money where my mouth is, and I want to get my heads flowed.
What are the specs (and price )that you're looking at for your 350? if you don't mind me asking. When are you hoping to have it ready?
damn, you musta made out better then me on your taxes...
400HP 350, and N20? geez, you're gonna be working hard to stay alive with that...
my 350 (d&w did machining on it, i'm building it) Rod thinks i'm dreaming to expect as high as 350HP, due to 416 heads. I'm thinking 350HP at least, but hey, i'll probably put it on a chassis dyno to put my money where my mouth is, and I want to get my heads flowed.
#24
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Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
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Axle/Gears: 4.11
I'd rather have one extra thing to fail and prevent N2O from spraying then have it accedently spray when the throttle is closed.
Last edited by Free Bird; 03-30-2006 at 01:10 PM.
#25
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by Sonix
D&W eh? they're doing the work for me too, Rod there is pretty good.
What are the specs (and price )that you're looking at for your 350? if you don't mind me asking. When are you hoping to have it ready?
damn, you musta made out better then me on your taxes...
400HP 350, and N20? geez, you're gonna be working hard to stay alive with that...
my 350 (d&w did machining on it, i'm building it) Rod thinks i'm dreaming to expect as high as 350HP, due to 416 heads. I'm thinking 350HP at least, but hey, i'll probably put it on a chassis dyno to put my money where my mouth is, and I want to get my heads flowed.
What are the specs (and price )that you're looking at for your 350? if you don't mind me asking. When are you hoping to have it ready?
damn, you musta made out better then me on your taxes...
400HP 350, and N20? geez, you're gonna be working hard to stay alive with that...
my 350 (d&w did machining on it, i'm building it) Rod thinks i'm dreaming to expect as high as 350HP, due to 416 heads. I'm thinking 350HP at least, but hey, i'll probably put it on a chassis dyno to put my money where my mouth is, and I want to get my heads flowed.
#26
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
geez! you ran into a ton of money! I'm rethinking this now... maybe with your current engine
actually, I probably spent that much on my motor now that I think about it... And i'm not getting a race builders guarantee of 350+ HP... know what heads or cam are going into it?
Yea, I didn't want out of place looking aftermarket guages, i'm going to have to find a way to make my stock guages, (tach mostly), more accurate... hmm.
well good luck!
actually, I probably spent that much on my motor now that I think about it... And i'm not getting a race builders guarantee of 350+ HP... know what heads or cam are going into it?
Yea, I didn't want out of place looking aftermarket guages, i'm going to have to find a way to make my stock guages, (tach mostly), more accurate... hmm.
well good luck!
#27
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Car: 91 z28
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Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
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Originally Posted by 83_Camaro_83
As for the bottle filling, i think its 70 bucks for a 10 pounder at davenport motorsports. I :
HOLY SHIZZZ i though 30 per 10 lb bottle was a little high, i get it for $2 a lb plus tax around here....and yes the purge valve is very addicting when you first put it on there
#28
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Originally Posted by WheelsUp84z
HOLY SHIZZZ i though 30 per 10 lb bottle was a little high, i get it for $2 a lb plus tax around here....and yes the purge valve is very addicting when you first put it on there
#29
Originally Posted by Jamsgirl
With a mechanical WOT switch there is no way it can't do what it's supposed to...you put it on, you hit Wide Open Throttle, the lever is pushed, activation.....Ta-da! :-)
Here's one of our TPI WOT switches
Here's one of our TPI WOT switches
#31
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U wouldnt want to run nitrous at part throttle anyways..... Most people make the common mistake of engaging the nitrous at to low an RPM and they dont understand what kinds of stress this puts on the lower end of an engine. NOS states to activat at a minum of 3000rpms and the lowest of 2500 rpms they say this for a reason.
#32
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Car: '84 Z28
Engine: Goodwrench 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: good guess
I dont run a WOT switch either and I've been playing w/ nitrous for a couple of years now. I've had it on 3 of my cars...no problems. I even peice together my own kits. Hell I even run a fountain drink CO2 bottle for my nitrous tank. Ive even ran a few bottles thru a 200K mile stock 305 shortblock....setup w/ a 200 shot. Of course I took all the rec. precautions. Luck prolly had a lil to do w/ it also.
BTW: Before someone says a smartass comment....I did my homework on nitrous before I started playing. I read every stitch of literature on how nitrous works and the consequences of it. I'm not saying that what I do is right nor do I suggest somone else copy me.
BTW: Before someone says a smartass comment....I did my homework on nitrous before I started playing. I read every stitch of literature on how nitrous works and the consequences of it. I'm not saying that what I do is right nor do I suggest somone else copy me.
#33
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
they filled a CO2 bottle with nitrous for you ? Isn't that against a rule or something?
that would be a huge tank though, slick
that would be a huge tank though, slick
#34
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Car: '84 Z28
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naw man, N2O and CO2 have alot of the same characteristics. They use the same type of containers, and have the same working pressures. I found this out when I bought a real old NOS tank for one of my kits and it had a CO2 certification stamped in the aluminum. The CO2 tank is a std. 10 lb bottle...it just has a handle welded to the top of it. And, I am pretty good friends w/ my local refiller.
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