Oil Return Leaks
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Oil Return Leaks
These are the BBSDesigns headers and turbos, but i dont have the valve covers they modify. I drilled holes in my stock valve covers and placed a gromets in them put they still leak. Any ideas of how i could fix this? i mocked up how they line up on the engine so you can see a little better
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
I heard the term Bulkhead connector used. This seems to be the one people use. Can I ask why you went back into the valve cover ? I have their kit aswell ( 650 hp t-62 kit ) But I was going to plumb it into the oil pan liek suggested . I am just thinking that there isn;t enough inertia to come out of the turbo ....move lateraly ( just kinda of a guess ....based on the picture ) then make it into the valve cover .
I am just guessing here and , am curious . It may be a better way ( easier ) for me to run the oil return line .
I am just guessing here and , am curious . It may be a better way ( easier ) for me to run the oil return line .
#6
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Car: 1982 Camaro Z28
Engine: electric
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt
get some -10an braided line and fittings, then run it into the oil pan. your wasting power by putting it in the valve cover plus the sbc doesn't have that great of a valve oil drain system in the first place. my suggestion is to do it right the first time and not ever have to worry about it again...... just my .02
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Car: 1990 Camaro IROC-T
Engine: L98 Turbo (GT40)
Transmission: THO400
Axle/Gears: Forged axles, 3.23 rear
Since installing my turbos ive noticed a leaking cover too. Although my return is welded into the sump, the turbo is close enough to the rocker cover to melt the seal under it. So with a combination of high heat, rpm, oil pressure and a worn seal, i ended up with a small leak.
But if you can definatly see it comming from your new hole then you definatly have to look at welding on a bulkhead connector, or going to teh sump.
But if you can definatly see it comming from your new hole then you definatly have to look at welding on a bulkhead connector, or going to teh sump.
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#8
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
Ill sell you an oil pan thats got a -8 fitting in the side of it for oil return...1pc rear main..
I would definately go to the oil pan...Going to the valve cover is just beggig for multiple turbo seal replacements..
I would definately go to the oil pan...Going to the valve cover is just beggig for multiple turbo seal replacements..
#9
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Car: 1982 Camaro Z28
Engine: electric
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt
Originally posted by Kenwood
I would definately go to the oil pan...Going to the valve cover is just beggig for multiple turbo seal replacements..
I would definately go to the oil pan...Going to the valve cover is just beggig for multiple turbo seal replacements..
#11
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
What should i use to run the lines with?
Nomatter what it will a pain to run since the turbos are hugging the valve covers. The return lines will be extremly close if not touching the headers since there is little clearence between the heads and headers.
Also i have the stock oil coolant lines runing close to the front of the harmonic balancer, just to make things worse.
Nomatter what it will a pain to run since the turbos are hugging the valve covers. The return lines will be extremly close if not touching the headers since there is little clearence between the heads and headers.
Also i have the stock oil coolant lines runing close to the front of the harmonic balancer, just to make things worse.
#12
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Get some -10 45 deg fittings out of the turbo oil drain to move the drain line away from the exhaust. Wire tie them to something to pull them away, if more clearance is needed. Above all, make sure it's always a downhill run to the oilpan. Flats and uphill will act like a trap, keeping the foamed oil from draining, and backing up into the turbo, blowing your labrynth oil seal. The proper fittings aren't cheap, but it's the simplest way of doing it, so you know there won't be issues down the road.
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