IROC-Turbo

I give up.This draw thru turbo is coming off.I've tuned and metering rodded myself to death and run out 6 full tanks of fuel in my driveway and this bastage still wont idle.The only way to get it to idle is to either park it sideways on a hill with the drivers side up the most or set the idle at 2 grand.

Guess i'll just take the turbo and mod it for blowthru and stick it on the tpi car but getting those 2 peices of pipe bent cost me more than the 3" flowmaster catback with tips with installation.

If i cant get it fixed in 2 weeks it will be parked and stripped back down to bare body then fully redone a diff way--maybe a BBC 6 speed.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Why dont you go FI with it?

-- Joe

AudioDEO

do you want to sell your setup?

IROC-Turbo

It runs good on the road now that i metered and check valved it.I just cant get it to idle under 2 grand.I have to tap the gas at redlights and such to keep it running and about everytime i do it spins a lil.

Why not FI??Hood clearance for one and not to mention it only accepts spreadbore types without machining and there are no machine shops around.

And yeah ive thought of selling it.But i dont know what would be a fair price and it would be hard to ship because the size/length of the crossover and downpipe with hollowed cat welded to it.Let me list what it would come with and you would see why shipping would be hard to pull off and sell it at the same time as a fully functional bolton and tune sys.

Older Driverside exhaust manifold(so i could use a driv-side dipstick block).
Factory thirdgen pass-side L69 exhaust manifold modded to feed the turbo.
Crossover pipe from manifold to manifold.
UpPipe from manifold to turbo.
Downpipe with hollowed cat from turbo to catback.
Turbo itself.
Wastgate actuater.
Carb mounting base.
Factory carb specific to this sys.
Oneway check valve.
Carb hat and intake pipe with k&n filter.
Turbo mounting plate/adapter.
Torker 2 intake.
Oil feed tube with T to continue useing stock oil sending unit.
Turbo to valve cover oil drain sys.
Holley tall valve covers modded for oil return.
Manual choke sys.
Adjustable throttle cable & trans cable mount with 700r4 adapter.

Thats all i can think of of the top of my head and it all has less than 1000 miles on it.I even have a spare turbo,spare pullthru boost specific carb,and the factory poncho intake.The turbo could be mounted to about any square bore intake V8 or V6 with some pipes bent and the pass-side manifold modded with very little trouble.If you think you might be interested PM me and we will see what we can come up with.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Not to really encourage draw through (I think it’s a mistake in most applications), but some sort of carb heat to warm the a/f mixture at idle and a diffuser of sorts under the carb would help immensely under low airflow conditions.

IROC-Turbo

I have the heater core hose run through the carb base to the water pump.Believe me the carb base gets extremely warm but my dash guage stays around 170.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

and how about a diffuser of sorts? you're not trying to force the a/f mixture to go uphill anywhere, are you?

IROC-Turbo

Not sure what a diffuser is.But you may have hit something--gas does seem to pool in the carb base.And maybe thats why i have to take it to 2 grand--to spool the turbo a lil and suck it out of the pool.Need a lil info on the diffuser.Thanks.

Mike-91 Formula 350

I'm guessing you have one of those adaptors that says RV-Turbo.If so I suggest you take that POS off and put a Holley on the intake and blow through the carb.Other than the idle problem how does it run full throttle?

IROC-Turbo

The setup is under another post in this forum called "Something you dont see everyday 2".Debating alot on blowthru!!My concern is the turbo worth the trouble to mod for blowthru??It Starts showing boost between 2 and 2.5 grand.Puts out 8 psi.Almost forgot about a problem there--when i had the car N/A i had a prob with the brakes pulsing.I changed the full brake sys 3 times to no avail.I would push the brakes slightly and the pedal would pull away from my foot and hold for a sec or 2 then release.While holding the brakes the pedal would steadily pulse up and down with about a inch of travel--like they were breathing.With the turbo it pulses less than 1/4 inch and never pulls itself away from my foot.Until i can find the culprit there i'll haave to leave the turbo as is.


Full throttle running is great.Need a diff cam though.Dont know what the cam is but with 3.42 gears it ran 2300-2500 rpm around 55-60 mph in OD without the converter locked.When i installed the turbo i changed the rear out to a 3.23 and wired the converter to lock but rpm's only dropped to 2100-2300.My 5.7 88 roc runs at 1800 at 60 with 3.27 gears and 1/2" shorter tires for comparison.Engine status is unknown but doesnt smoke.The engine was pulled from a 80 olds i aquired and was rumered to be recent rebuilt.The engine was fully painted other than that i dont know.The block nums are 3970014--heads are 333882--plus it had a 2 barrel mounted on it that was leaking more fuel on the intake than in the intake--and the tranny behind it was slipping so bad it would barely pull itself so how it ran with a duel plane i dont know.I pulled the intake and carb and threw on a edel 600cfm carb and the torker 2 intake i had laying around before i ever dropped it in the car.Dont know what the front nums are but if anyone can run them i'll gladly get them.Too much cam??Not enough??I cant fig it out.

Right now the car is just a backup car for when the next bastage hits my iroc.I have to the end of the month to road test as when the tags die i wont renew them for a while.I took the car from a completely stripped nonrolling,nonwired shell and put it all together so id hate to just give up.I appreciate any help you can give me but im not able to do much physically or cash wise.