Gotta leave, so here's cliff notes.

-Hauls butt, even without full traction!
-Turbo spool and twin BOV's on a V8 sound sweet!
-Boost gauge reads 8-9 psi but I think that's low because it rests at about -2 at atmosheric.
-Lots of oil burning out the exhaust at WOT I did plug off that breather line to the TB.
-Left turbo making whiny rattly sound at rev down (in neutral). No shaft play, spins freely, seems to work fine, I did prime them. I hope it's not going already! Would explain oil though.
-Exhaust leak probably at left header, most annoying
-Fiberglass hood gets REAL hot, gonna shield it now
-Otherwise, everything runs as it should (nicely) but I'll definately take it easy on the trip. I won't be on here for a little while after today, so don't panic if you don't hear from me soon. :P

 

It looks great. I just can't imagine fitting all that in there with the stock serpentine belt drive and A/C. Is the A/C functional yet? Wish you the best of luck on the 1500mile drive.

 

Yeah, "tight fit" doesn't begin to describe it. The A/C is still functional, though it does need recharged. How many of us turbo guys are there with functional A/C still?
Thanks for the GL.

I made time to take a couple more pics, my dad wanted some. Here's another.

 

Just wanted to wish you luck on the trip man, I'm not sure if it's ***** or stupidity that motivate us to do that sorta thing. This summer I put a home modified 9 inch in on a wendsday and drove it on an 1800 mile trip thursday. Just be sure to keep tools with you. It looks better then you think, I'm definitely impressed. I hope the trip goes well for you.

 

That looks good to me. Good luck on the 1500 mile trip.

 

Was just curious, what hoods willl fit over that setup? Will the stock Z/28, or even a plain jain RS hood work?

 

It looks like the stock hood would work just fine. The highest point seems to be the driversside turbo, and its about as tall as the brake booster.

That car looks sick with the intercooler, not to mention the twins under the hood

 

The TTA used a vacuum booster (I remember being in a friend’s TTA picking on some rice when the car suddenly made a pop and no power brakes… vacuum line blew off under boost…).

Late model ford stuff (mustangs…) use the same deal, shouldn’t be as hart to make it work as you would think. Otherwise, manual brakes work well and would give you tons of space.

I probably would have looked in to moving that primary, dimpling it with a hammer, or shimming the motor mounts over towards the passenger side…

Good luck on the trip and the wedding!

 

Very nice man. Im in Stillwater I try to swing down to OKC on the weekends, when im not swamped with school. When you come back to the 405 shout out and I will swing down there. I gotta see your setup in person. I also have some questions for a single turbo setup i have been pondering. Anways good luck on the wedding!

 

Hey, i know you... small world. we have three of the same cars and are on atleast three of the same forums for each of our cars

 

I made it.
Just about 2 months ago I was a 24 year old single sailor on the west coast without a place to really call home and had never been outside of the U.S., and I had a broken naturally aspirated Camaro far away, and (much more importantly!) a loving fiancee even further away.
Now I'm a 25 year old married civilian on the east coast with a home to call our own and I've been all the way to Roma, Italia and back, and I have parked in my garage a running twin-turbo Camaro, and (much more importantly!) a beautiful, wonderful and loving wife right here beside me.
What a life change! Thanks for all the 'good luck's I recieved!

The Camaro isn't doing quite as well as I am, though.

The answer was dependent on the outcome of the trip.
I'd say it's a share of both, probably. It takes some nerve to try to prove that it can be done all alone and it takes a little bit of stupidity because that's something that doesn't need proving.
In addition to the initial 1500 miles (actually was 1350), I've put about another 1000 or so on it from needing to run up and down from Alexandria, VA to College Park, MD and everywhere in between about a million times.

In order from what I can remember...
The exhaust leak at the left header got louder (by far the most annoying part of the whole trip) and the DP to Y-pipe leaks are about the same. The turbo whined for the few hours I drove the first night and a little the next morning, but completely stopped whining after that for no aparent reason. Still no shaft play, spins freely (sweet!).

Shortly before I left I heard what sounded like a slight rod knock coming from within the middle of the engine as far as I could tell, hoping it wasn't. Well into the trip when I stopped for gas it got louder, and still is. It's only audible at idle, still quiet enough to be drowned out by all the other noises and the exhaust during accel, rev or cruise. I can feel it slightly in the clutch when it's pushed in when it knocks, and a few times it set off the SES light at idle from the knock sensor picking it up (presumably). I haven't had a chance to diagnose further, or datalog at all. If it is a rod knock, then I'm not happy (imagine that). Once it got louder I just left it in 5th most of the trip because it keeps the oil pressure higher and lugs the engine less than when in 6th. I'm wondering if 6th helped it get worse.

As you can imagine I didn't floor it very much, but it still blows smoke when I do, possibly lots of fuel too (likely, I purposely made it rich). The boost gauge is broken, it kept falling further into vacuum when it should be at 0, so I still don't know how much boost it's running. I'm kicking myself for not borrowing my downed Talon's boost gauge before I left (which is going to be towed up here this weekend).

I added two quarts of oil the whole trip, I don't know if it's burning more or leaking more. I don't know why, but the (factory) oil pressure gauge fluctuates it's reading by about 5 psi depending on throttle input (wierd). For example, if it reads 40 psi at cruise and I start to accelerate (but stay at the same RPM), it'll dip down to 38-37, if I let off, it'll bump up to 42-43. Gauge error, or oil pressure fluctuation? I don't recall it ever doing this before. I need to get an Autometer oil pressure gauge (if that one doesn't break too).

All these oil problems make me wonder if I'm sending too much oil to the turbos, starving bearings and causing blowby at the turbo seals into the exhaust. The feed is a T'd fitting at the old style pressure sender port going into each turbo, but I don't know what AN size the hose and fittings are (I should). It's what came with the BBS part of the setup. How are your guys' turbos getting their oil? Any feed issues, too much or too little? I hope this is causing a lot of my problems, as restrictors are an easy fix.

Recently the water temp started going up. It's full of coolant, but all of a sudden the coolant is full of rust. Instead of green, it's brown now. I'm pretty sure what happened is that a chunk of settled rust from this old block (that I didn't have hot-tanked) broke loose and broke up (or even helped clog some things). I need to do a coolant flush now, I think that'll take care of it. Everything else in the system still checks out fine as far as I can tell.

I need to keep motivated, as this is a lot all at once to bring down my spirits about the project, I've wanted to give up a few times. :O

In other news, I have a slow leak at the RR tire, and the SPEC stg III is still very chattery and annoying to drive, though not as bad as it was at first. It grabs! Also, I picked up a decent 26 gallon air compressor on sale last weekend.

When I say the setup is ugly, I mostly mean the finer details like the mismatching pipes (most aluminum, some steel) and the fact that there are extra couplings attached because of it, and the aluminum isn't the prettiest looking yet, and there are mismatching hose clamps and couplings. On top of that (or underneath rather) is the nastiness of whatever solid glue-like substance was sprayed all over the engine bay before I bought it that doesn't want to come off easy. It does look better in the pics than in person, but still I really like the overall setup and I'll make it look much nicer once it's all working right (if ever?).

Here's one from a hotel balcony on the way here.

 

Yes, the stock hood would fit over with a bit of clearance. It needs shielding though, and I think you'd have to remove the stock underhood liner to prevent fires, maybe.

Chris, next time I have the Camaro down there I'll try to let you know (I'll probably post it here anyway), but that won't be soon I'm sure. :/

sLoW'n'StEaDy, I think I recognize that name from RFT? You have a thirdgen, a DSM, and a Fiero? Cool, that's pretty crazy.

 

[Napoleon Dynamite Voice] Lucky! [/Napoleon Dynamite Voice]

 

glad to hear you only had a mildly eventful trip man, hopefully the motor works out. I've heard of people using 60 jets for nitrous as restrictors for their turbos may be worth a shot, or just buying them. Sounds like you didn't do too much worse then the typical "break in" stuff you've gotta get locked down besides that. Congrats on the new wife too.

 

Thanks.

.060 jets? I'll look into it. If there's anything that'll screw into them inline that would be even better. *shrug*
The only thing that seriously worries me is the knock. It's not the end of the world but the car will be down for a very long time now if I have to tear into this motor again.
Thanks for the congrats! We did a good thing for sure. Cars are all fun and games, marraige is for life!

Hydro brakes are going to happen, I'm pretty sure. That's later on the list though. One of the goals of this project was to avoid losing any factory accessories, especially the power brakes. I want it to drive at least as nice as a factory thirdgen (for the exception of the clutch, I guess. I couldn't justify double the cost for a Street Twin). Other than the issues it accomplishes that pretty well still.

Moving the primary (as in cut-and-weld) isn't an option as of yet and there really isn't anywhere to move it to anyway with the downpipe set up as it is. Dimpling it would help a tiny, but honestly not as much as shimming the booster did (which still works fine BTW). Shimming the motor mounts isn't something I thought of, but I don't see how that's possible picturing it from memory. ?
BTW, I think I live about 9 miles from you now. Cool.

Thanks for the GL. If saying GL helps a situation any, you guys sure did! I'm surprised I'm not dead by now, hehe. I did get very sick for most of our honeymoon in Rome though. :/ Getting dizzy and passing out while standing up in the small hotel bathroom isn't very romantic I tell ya!

 

Last night headed to Sears I came out of my street turning left onto a main road with a small gap (smaller than I thought) between an oncoming truck and car in front of it that were headed the way I was turning. I gave it about 3/4 throttle in first and it got sideways, shifted into second, another 3/4 to get out of the trucks way and got even more squirrely. Being up to speed I let off in third to regain control and thought Phew! This ain't no Talon!


I have some rough data at best, I got the laptop hooked up for a bit of datalogging a few mins ago. It wouldn't record for some reason, I couldn't figure it out. I'm still pretty new to the datalogging part of it all, 'specially with the newer version of Tunerpro. So, I was limited to what my eye could glance at while hanging on.
I have the NWSTP $58 2/3bar .ADS, and I couldn't find any plain 2-bar MAP data options. There is...

Mass Air Pressure (Calculated 3-bar from 1-bar variable)
Mass Air Pressure (Calculated 2-bar from 1-bar variable)
Mass Air Pressure (1-bar)
MAP Raw (1-bar)

I don't understand why they're all derived from 1-bar on a 2-bar system? At any rate, I don't know which one I need to use with a stock Sy/Ty 2-bar MAP sensor, but I tried the 2-bar from 1-bar variable option, and I'm almost hoping it isn't calibrated right, heh. It was maxing out at over 200 Kpa, and when I saw that I had a big Whoa there, let off dummy! scare because that means I'm somewhere north of 15 psi (stupid boost gauge). :O

That would make sense though, as I saw at least 10* of KR on one occasion. :O Bad Camaro!

The only thing I can say for sure is that my intercooler works! At least with 52* ambient temps. At WOT the IAT didn't go over 90*F in third from a (quick!) 2-3 pull.

This thing won't stay hooked anywhere south of 4th gear, and not all of that either. It doesn't pull quite as hard as my Talon down low, but the faster it goes the harder it pulls. I think that's about enough until I get it sorted out better. I'm going to Oklahoma this weekend to pick up the other two half-broken cars and the rest of my stuff.

 

Hey Steve, on the oil issue. My car uses -4 lines fromt the sending unit above the filter to each turbo. I do not use oil restrictors anywhere, and as far as I can tell it uses zero oil. I do blow a bit out the breather when drag racing @ 10psi, but thats it (its hard to tell, I only put 2k miles on it a year but I think the 15w50 Mobil 1 in it now is like 18 months old). I have always been under the impression that restrictors are not needed in a turbo feed line (and that the reason some people need to use them is to mask other problems such as improper drains), but I could be wrong.

 

I don't use any oil restrictors on mine either. I have a clear (PFA) oil drain on the driver's side turbo and I can barely see any oil draining at idle. I also have a melling high-pressure oil pump (~55psi @turbos @ idle). The turbos have about 3000 miles on them since May.

I'm just trying to say that my turbos don't flow excess volumes of oil, so yours probably don't either.

 

wow that car came along way!!!!!! and i didn't know that you lived in oklahoma???

 

The $58 code takes in the MAP reading and creates a 1-bar variable. It uses it internally and spits it out the ALDL. it goes from 10KPA to 101KPA or 104KPA. It then creates a second MAP variable that starts at 101 KPA or 104 KPA and goes up to 207KPA. So, you have a N/A variable and a boost variable. One is called MAP and the other is called turbo pressure in the ADS. I remember one being wrong and fixing and sending to NWSTP along with other fixes.

In the end, I used the RAW MAP variable and create a 2-bar MAP variable from it using tunerpro that would go from 10 KPA to 207KPA. I am not sure what is in the NWSTP ADS file but look at the boost pressure variable and add your N/A MAP reading to it (approx 101KPA at sea level) and this is your boost pressure.

If that 200KPA is real then I suggest going to Sears and buying the Accu-gauge tire pressure gauge for 5-$7 that has a brass fitting on it which the hose unscrews from. You can thread brass nipple fitting on it. Or even better......do you have a mighty-vac kit for testing vacuum stuff? You can use that as a boost gauge.

Do not check the 1-bar option if you are using a 2-bar MAP sensor. The 1-bar option is for running the $58 on a N/A engine. Which no one would ever do because the $8D runs so much better.

 

Everything's here now, hope to hook up Talon's boost gauge someday soon, still need to recover from 3000 mile round trip in 4 days.

ttypecamaro- Where are your turbos getting their oil from?

junkcltr- Thanks for explaining that. The more I find out about $58, the more I don't like it. It was obviously designed by totally different people than the $8D was. GM has always seemed to lack internal communication. Anyway...

There are also multiple options relating to "turbo boost", and I don't even know which one of those I would use. Nothing is named "turbo pressure", though.
Maybe this is an updated and altered version with your fix's installed?

The car made another few hundred mile trip to and from Friend's house (helped to go get cars+stuff), no change in things (except he put 87 octane in the tank driving it back. ). I did have to put 1.75 more quarts of oil in it before I left, though.

 

I get the oil from a 1/8NPT above the timing cover. I tested the pressure there and its ~56psi with the turbos hooked up. My uncle gave me my block for my 16th birthday. He didn't know where its was from other than the trunk of some junk car. The casting number tells me 1975 C20 or 3500, 4-bolt mains.

 

Above the timing cover? I'm not picturing where there's a place to get oil from there, though aparently it's a good one. Glad to here it's working out.

Now, upon searching I've found another person on here that used the old style pressure sender for his Vortech (Blownbird I think) a while back, and he was having oiling issues to the engine, though Askulte said he has the oil coming from there without problems on his twins (if you're reading this... was there any kind of factory turbo restriction or restrictors added to this?).

I have oil blowing out the exhaust on throttle let up, but I also have a rod or rods knocking as well. I'm not certain, but it's been suggested that the old style pressure port is upstream of the main and rod bearings. This would starve them if excessive flow was being taken by the two turbos.

I'm going to buy these restrictors...
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL
...because tons of people have used them on their thrust bearing turbos without starvation problems, so it wouldn't hurt if nothing else. Lots more people seem to have over oiling issues than the opposite.

 

I still need to pull one of the old blocks off the shelf to refresh my memory of how small Chevy oiling works, but since the oil is introduced at the rear of the block, taking turbo oil off the front of the block already saves some pressure for the mains.

Also, there are three oil galleries around the cam... one for the mains and one for each lifter bank. Taking oil off the lifter galleries probably wouldn't hurt anything, but taking oil off the main gallery is probably a BIG problem.

Remember that at .002 rod bearing clearance, the area for oil to escape from the system for one rod journal is the same as a .064 hole (taking both sides of the bearing into consideration). For a main bearing, it's the same as a .070 hole. So NORMALLY, the total loss area (5 mains and 8 rods) that the main gallery has to feed is the same as a 0.170 hole.

Your oil feed to the turbos is bigger than that, so you've probably cut the oil flow to your mains in half.

 

I got the restrictors in and the slight knock at idle is still there, as is the WOT smoke. I want to say that it doesn't smoke as bad as it did upon throttle let up but I'm not sure. I must have a ton of blow-by.

There was a LOT more area in the holes before I installed the restrictors. Now with two .060 holes it's about the same area as an .085 hole. Being that it's still knocking, the only thing left to try is to move the oil feed to another location (one of the two you guys have had good luck with). If that doesn't cure it, then it's too late for those bearings.

I got the Talon's boost gauge hooked up, and the Camaro holds a steady 14psi. For the first time I ran the two cars back to back today, and I can say with confidence that (though untuned) this is hands down the faster car, even when begging for traction in 3rd but especially when it hooks in 4th. The Talon was in all of it's 24psi on E85, 117mph glory (in the 1/4), too. That's promising for sure.

 

I hate to ask a stupid Q, but is that 14# on a stock L98 long block? What sort of fuel/anti detonation system are you running? That motor's a bit high compression for 14# probably. What's the oil pres. look like?

 

It's a stock L98 other than LT1 (PM) rods and Speed-Pro pistons. My final SCR is 9.0:1, and I'm using 93 octane with the "Ebay special" 24x12x4 intercooler (shown in pics). I also have fairly large ring gaps for the boost. There is a bit of knock retard, but I don't think it was as bad today since it was in the 30's/40's. My only recorded IAT's were less than 90* through 2nd and 3rd with 52* ambient.

My oil pressure is 15psi at idle, and 45-55psi at 2500+, according to the stock gauge (dunno if I want to believe it though).

 

Seen you in action today! I stay around in the maryland-dc area. It was in college park down pass the Ihop and homedepot, off route 1. I'm riding along and out of nowere comes this Royal blue king, with a shinny bright alumi smile(Intercooler) Cool Z man, its nice to see that around. I have a 91 z28 tpi 305ci convertible. Maby some twinturbo install pointers from you in the near future. Any ways, it's awsome, keep up the good work.

 

Haha, cool. Yeah that must've been me. I didn't see your car though, sorry. What color is it so I can look out? (I usually notice thirdgens)
Here's a twin turbo pointer... Don't do it! Heh, just kidding. I'd be glad to try to answer any questions you may have.

 

I was wondering what your ring gap was because Nelson Racing only runs a 0.024 top and a 0.025 second ring gap on the buildup in the Hotrod September 06 issue. This could be some of your blowby problems. just an idea, BTW I love your car.

 

Honestly I can't remember what I decided on, that's the only spec I forgot before I wrote it all down. It was somewhere around there though, maybe a couple thousandths more. I know they were both in the mid-upper .020's. I'm sure it has some to do with the blow-by, but was hoping it wouldn't be very bad. One thing I'm really thinking about for the long term is a crankcase vacuum pump in place of my deleted smog pump.

 

Blowby from piston rings/ring gap on such a "young" engine is extremely unlikely. The potential issue might be if you have been running it SOOO rich that you've washed down the cylinder walls and ruined the hone.

It's good that you got those restrictors in. That removes one potential problem from the troubleshooting tree.

Get the car tuned and your BLM's dialed in before you complain about oil smoke. What kind of mileage is it getting? 16? That could easily be rich smoke. You have so much tint on your hatch glass that it could be pouring swirling trails of pink and green smoke and you'd never be able to tell. Get it tuned, then diagnose.

We can line your cars up for a highway roll next time we get together.

 

The engine had ~2000 miles on it before I turbo'd it, all sealed fine. I doubt it would be washing the walls because it's not running THAT rich. Why would a large ring gap with 14 psi NOT be causing some blow-by? It's no tight Northstar with gapless rings, afterall.

BLM's have nothing to do with WOT. It doesn't smoke except at WOT under high boost. It got a consistent 19-20mpg on the way here (which still sucks, but again it's not THAT bad). BLM's also have nothing to do with an open loop only tune. I need to have a properly fuctioning O2 sensor before I can change that.

I can see out my side view mirrors just fine, they aren't tinted. Rich smoke is NOT bluish white. I might have been able to see more like we planned if everyone wasn't in such a rush to save 30 minutes that day. And yes, the rear glass needs lightened.

Getting it tuned won't stop a rod knock. I'm going to change the oil feed location and if that doesn't help (doubtful that it will at this point) then I'm pulling the engine and tearing it apart again before anything else will be done. Once that happens the whole setup will go back together very slowly and carefully over the course of 3.7 years. Garages are nice like that.

 

As I recall that was the day we were about to drive 20 hours to get YOUR stuff, yes I wanted to save 30 minutes.

We still have time to do it. Stay in touch.

BLM's have a LOT to do with WOT. They are derived from closed loop operation, but still applied in open loop. Of course you have to get closed loop working first before you can take advantage of that.

 

Taken to PM's as this conversation doesn't belong on here.


I have to take one thing at a time. I need to fix the major issues first, that one currently being a slight rod knock. Good tune comes afterward.

 

Sort of. If the BLMs would give a richer mixture than the open loop value, then the BLMs are used. Otherwise, the BLM is set to 128 (inert) and open loop values are used.

EDIT: Thats suck about the rod knock. That is cool that you can run 14 PSI. I am still chicken and only went up to 9 PSI for a little while....no IC sucks.

 

so i have read throgh the thread and didnt catch anythin on this but...one is the motor forged or stock? and how are you tunnin it? is the comp/prom stock also? how much do you have in the turbos setup? looks killer by the way sure would be a fun car to drive nice work!!

 

I'll copy+paste some.

Rebuilt '89 L98 with Speed Pro D-cup pistons (-21.1cc) and GM powdered metal rods, balanced, with ARP hardware, has 9:1 SCR.

I'm using Tunerpro RT with the stock '730 SD ECM and $58 code, though I don't like it (and don't know enough to keep making it better as others have).

I didn't mention how much I have into it because it hurts to think about.
The base BBSDesigns Street/Strip TT "kit" (headers, turbos, beginning of DP's, oil lines and bolts) was $3200 IIRC. With the IC, BOV's, alum pipes (and welding them), couplings, clamps, air filters, ceramic coating, extra necessary things like battery relocation, different sensors, etc etc etc, I probably have a couple thousand more into it. One of these days I'll add up the reciepts. :O
I'm not done yet, I have to make a new Y-pipe still.

If I had it to do all over again I'd make my own turbo "kit" since I have a garage now and can buy the tools. I like my IC setup though, it would stay the same.

Thanks for the compliments! It is fun even with the current problems, but I don't drive it yet (anymore) unless I'm diagnosing.

 

Thanks for clarifying that.

Once it's tuned I think 14 psi should be no problem in the cooler weather, gonna pull a couple degrees more timing before I test it out again just to be safe. I might have to figure out how to turn down the boost when it gets hot out when on 93, or just add another fuel pump so I can run a mix of E85. I'd have to figure out how to get it down to single digits for sure if I didn't have that big FMIC. :O
What are your IAT's at 9 psi? I think you mentioned it before but I forget.

 

You can make the smog pump do double duty... plumb it so it pumps air into the cat as it should, just make sure that it draws that air from the crank case.

 

Steve,

Looking GREAT !!!

 

I'd love to do that, but unfortunately it won't work for two or three reasons.
1) IIRC, it draws in it's air from the small holes around the fan kinda thing behind the pulley, not from a single large hole. (I could be wrong)
2) Constant oil mist will kill the bearings as they're made to run dry.
3) Constant oil mist in the cat is probably BAD.
"They" say that Ford pumps last longer with oil than any other, but I still couldn't and wouldn't use one for double duty.

Thanks!

 

60-70 *F ambient, V6 open element IAT 4" in front of TB. At 9 PSI, the IATs were 160*F. No IC, 2.5" steel pipes from comp. outlets to TB. The IATs vary somewhat due to the coolant fan blowing air on them.

That will change a bit when I fab. the new single setup. Hopefully, starting in about a month or so. The IC pipe will be alum. and I think I will make air deflectors for the coolant fan heat.

 

In $58 you can pull out timing vs intake air temp, When its get to hot just pull alot of timing out..........

This project have gotten me to think "Maybe I should get turbo/s"

 

Wouldn't an oil catch can similar to the one you have now keep oil out of the pump?
We might be able to whip up something that would serve as an inlet manifold for the pump... or install hose nipples and run a bunch of hoses to a junction box.

Why do you care about what goes through the cat? I thought you were only going to run that when there were blue lights behind you?

Just dry sump it and use an extra pump stage for AIR.

 

That's hot! I have the V6 sensor too (on your recommendation), but I put it in the TPI stock location (plenum). I figure that will give me an accurate IAT since the plastic V6 sensor won't absorb plenum heat as much or for as long as the stock one.
Make sure you post up about the single/IC setup!

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Thanks for reminding me! In the long term I'd rather just be able to turn down the boost as it's easier on everything, but pulling plenty of timing should do the trick for the detonation.

Glad I could provide some inspiration. LOL



The catch can would keep most of it out probably, but it doesn't get all of it now and it would be worse with vacuum applied methinks.

...No, no. IIRC (again), the inlet fan part spins with the pulley.

...Because I don't want oil collecting in the cat no matter how much I use it... And I also plan on running it every time I feel like the car being quieter than it is (In this nice and quiet neighborhood, for one).

I've been really considering trying out some random Ford pump that has an inlet and outlet (just for the crankcase) by making a bracket and swapping a pulley, to see how long it can last, and how well it works. Once again... one thing at a time. I don't have much time to work on this car right now.

 

I just reread this thread and wanted to say how depressing it is to have put all that work into this and have it sit idly for the last year and a half in the same barely-running half-broken (etc.) state.
I pulled the car cover up, charged the Optima, then took it for a short drive today. It's sad that it's so close, yet so far from what it needs to be. I think the rod knock is a bit worse, too.

Can anyone provide me with some real motivation (and time) to try to get this thing tip-top by 2010 when I can register it as historic? I'm considering ripping the engine and interior out of it and installing them (rebuilt) and longitudinally with a Porsche tranny into my drivetrain-less '88 Fiero (needs to be stretched) to make my "IROC-GT" concept. Traction is nice. How much would you pay for this car without a TT engine, tranny, or front interior?

 

Looks awesome man! I just ordered my front mount yesterday, slowly gonna order parts throught the summer, then come winter a nice BW S400 is going in

Jay

 

Steven89Iroc~ Please don't give up on this car... I remember reading this exact post a couple years ago and drooling over the progress.. I just pulled my headers out that got I got from BBS just to compare them to yours. Looks like Edwardo changed the design (slightly) in the driver side header. I bought these headers about a year ago and received them about 6 months ago... Sadly I just havent had the money and time to buy the rest of the parts and learn what turbos to go with... what intercooler to use ect ect. Whats even worse is that Im STILL in credit card debt because of these headers... But I wont sell them! Im gonna install these headers one day WITH turbos and a ton of other pieces.. I may blow up a motor or 2 (or 3...maybe 4... no more than 7). But I SWEAR I will FULLY learn how to install a turbocharger on a car..... Good luck!

 

Don't give up dude, I just found this thread and I am inspired. I think twin turbos is the way I will go on my car. You are so close, it's just the details left.