Spring Loaded Tensioner for ATI
#1
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Spring Loaded Tensioner for ATI
Hi..
I'm planning on building a some sort of spring loaded tensioner for my procharger unit to help prevent belt slippage.
Any ide'as or pictures of how it should be?
I have two alternatives
1. Use a "normal" spring instead of the adjustment bolt, this would make the tensioner bracket pulled straight up.
2. Use some kind of spring load setup like the one that are for the serp.belt on my car. This would make a better setup I think....
/N.
I'm planning on building a some sort of spring loaded tensioner for my procharger unit to help prevent belt slippage.
Any ide'as or pictures of how it should be?
I have two alternatives
1. Use a "normal" spring instead of the adjustment bolt, this would make the tensioner bracket pulled straight up.
2. Use some kind of spring load setup like the one that are for the serp.belt on my car. This would make a better setup I think....
/N.
#2
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there was a company that posted on here that already made a tensioner set-up...i'll see if i can find it for ya.
edit: here it is
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=tensioner
later
larry
edit: here it is
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=tensioner
later
larry
Last edited by maniacc; 09-22-2004 at 08:26 PM.
#3
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
thanks!
They take almost 500$ for the kit
I'll see If I can come up with something that works, I would rather like to buy other stuff for 500$.....
/N.
They take almost 500$ for the kit
I'll see If I can come up with something that works, I would rather like to buy other stuff for 500$.....
/N.
#4
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Most of the aftermarket uses some variation of the tensioners used on the ford trucks… that’s what we used on my brother’s car. I’m also a big fan of the idea of putting an idler or tensioner on either side of the blower pulley to make sure that it’s got good belt contact.
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
One problem is that here in sweden its hard to find american cars at the "car scrap yard" its most européan cars.......
I'll see what I can come up with.....
/N.
I'll see what I can come up with.....
/N.
#6
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I suspect that any of the larger tensioners would work OK... the thing on my Chevy truck looks fairly similar. I don't know what euro cars have comprable stuff... I never seem to make it over to that end of the JY
What's nice about the ford setup (and maybe others, I haven't atually checked them), is that it basically needs 2 holes to mount, one in the center for the bolt and a second one to index it so it doesn't spin around. They're really simple to deal with.
What's nice about the ford setup (and maybe others, I haven't atually checked them), is that it basically needs 2 holes to mount, one in the center for the bolt and a second one to index it so it doesn't spin around. They're really simple to deal with.
#7
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
any pict?
Edit: like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...922724665&rd=1
It could work..
Looking through Ebay and there is alot of tensioners, will check clearence next time I'll go to the garage....
maybe stock could work somehow...
/N.
Edit: like this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...922724665&rd=1
It could work..
Looking through Ebay and there is alot of tensioners, will check clearence next time I'll go to the garage....
maybe stock could work somehow...
/N.
Last edited by gta324; 09-23-2004 at 04:06 AM.
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#12
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
One problem I found with using a tensioner off of any old vehicle is the type of mount used. Trying to make it work with the clearance in my setup was difficult at best. I ended up going with a tensioner off an 18 wheeler. Take a look at the orientation of the arm, outside of the pulley, inside makes mounting difficult for most setups. Very heavy duty and oriented the right way, also a great pulley with thick flanges on the end. The tensioner I am using is from an International 466 part number 2028958C93 also from Dayco DC89408, prices should range from about 85-100 or so.
One thing i was really impressed with was how much slack the tensioner takes up when revving the engine. Let it idle then just rev it hard a few times tensioner takes up almost an inch of slack as it revs, under load I would imagine more. I remember reading the posts of guys breaking the snout off their crank, I imagine tightening the manual tensioner so tight is pretty detrimental and still probably not as effective as a good automatic setup.
One thing i was really impressed with was how much slack the tensioner takes up when revving the engine. Let it idle then just rev it hard a few times tensioner takes up almost an inch of slack as it revs, under load I would imagine more. I remember reading the posts of guys breaking the snout off their crank, I imagine tightening the manual tensioner so tight is pretty detrimental and still probably not as effective as a good automatic setup.
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Biggtime: is it for a P600B bracket on a TPI engine?picts?
Mark A 91Formula: Do you have more pictures?
88 350 tpi formula: Do you have any pictures?
/N.
Mark A 91Formula: Do you have more pictures?
88 350 tpi formula: Do you have any pictures?
/N.
Last edited by gta324; 09-26-2004 at 04:31 AM.
#16
Here are some pics of the idler, The mounting plate pic is no the link below.
http://bigtimeauto.com/gallery/Under-Construction
http://bigtimeauto.com/gallery/Under-Construction
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Biggtime: I dont think there is enough space to use that on my TPI bracket..
88 350 tpi formula: Looks good but I have a Procharger unit so I dont think I can mount it like you have....
/N.
88 350 tpi formula: Looks good but I have a Procharger unit so I dont think I can mount it like you have....
/N.
#19
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
Incase your wondering the center mounting bolt is the one that passes through the blower bracket to the lower alternator mount, it was just the right location
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
I have a custom setup, running a Paxton Novi 2000 basically patterned after a stock ATI, using an 8 rib ATI crank pulley, everything else was pretty much fabricated. Using an aluminum plate, same mounting points as ati retaining the stock accessories.
The tensioner I used basically just has a center bolt and a little nipple to index.
The tensioner I used basically just has a center bolt and a little nipple to index.
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Supercharged and Intercooled
Transmission: 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10 bolt 3.42
Originally posted by Mark A 91Formula
One problem I found with using a tensioner off of any old vehicle is the type of mount used. Trying to make it work with the clearance in my setup was difficult at best. I ended up going with a tensioner off an 18 wheeler. Take a look at the orientation of the arm, outside of the pulley, inside makes mounting difficult for most setups. Very heavy duty and oriented the right way, also a great pulley with thick flanges on the end. The tensioner I am using is from an International 466 part number 2028958C93 also from Dayco DC89408, prices should range from about 85-100 or so.
One thing i was really impressed with was how much slack the tensioner takes up when revving the engine. Let it idle then just rev it hard a few times tensioner takes up almost an inch of slack as it revs, under load I would imagine more. I remember reading the posts of guys breaking the snout off their crank, I imagine tightening the manual tensioner so tight is pretty detrimental and still probably not as effective as a good automatic setup.
One problem I found with using a tensioner off of any old vehicle is the type of mount used. Trying to make it work with the clearance in my setup was difficult at best. I ended up going with a tensioner off an 18 wheeler. Take a look at the orientation of the arm, outside of the pulley, inside makes mounting difficult for most setups. Very heavy duty and oriented the right way, also a great pulley with thick flanges on the end. The tensioner I am using is from an International 466 part number 2028958C93 also from Dayco DC89408, prices should range from about 85-100 or so.
One thing i was really impressed with was how much slack the tensioner takes up when revving the engine. Let it idle then just rev it hard a few times tensioner takes up almost an inch of slack as it revs, under load I would imagine more. I remember reading the posts of guys breaking the snout off their crank, I imagine tightening the manual tensioner so tight is pretty detrimental and still probably not as effective as a good automatic setup.
I will need the lips on the ends because my prior experience with mounting the tensioner this way, the belt will walk off the pulley. Thanks.
#24
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
I got mine from the parts counter at an International dealer. Came just as you see in the pics. Smooth pulley with fairly big lips on the ends. Could be where you got it maybe? Go for a truck place if you didn't. Hopefully they didn't change the setup.
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Car: 1991 Firebird Formula
Engine: 383 Supercharged and Intercooled
Transmission: 6-Speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10 bolt 3.42
The pulley that I have that came in the tensioner measures 1.5" wide. But no side flanges.
I do have a crowned polymer pulley, with no side flanges, that I bought from Vortech. I tried it on this Dayco tensioner and it fits. I just hope the belt stays on the pulley.
I once tried the pulley on the top side with the stock "breaker bar" setup and it just walked off the pulley. I think this happened because the tension pulley is mounted on the "loose" side of the belt. Under high boost the belt streches and the "stationary" tensioner pulley doesn't keep the tension, so the belt walks off.
I do have a crowned polymer pulley, with no side flanges, that I bought from Vortech. I tried it on this Dayco tensioner and it fits. I just hope the belt stays on the pulley.
I once tried the pulley on the top side with the stock "breaker bar" setup and it just walked off the pulley. I think this happened because the tension pulley is mounted on the "loose" side of the belt. Under high boost the belt streches and the "stationary" tensioner pulley doesn't keep the tension, so the belt walks off.
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Well I finally got around to putting the spring loaded tensioner on my p1sc setup. I used Mark A 91Formula's setup as a guide.
I was NOT able to use the bolt hole that also supports the bottom of the alternator. I tried it and the body of the tensioner would hit the belt\, even under tension. I had to drill a new hole .75" above the altenator bolt hole and mount it there. This way I had the clearence between the body of the tensioner and the belt.
Also, I needed to put 2 washers between the pulley and the spring arm to move the pulley closer to the block. (This was to center the blower belt on the pulley.
Otherwise I think that this setup is going to work great. Have a decent amount of blower pulley wrap now, and the tension should remain consistant even under higer rpms.
Here are two pics. (I just polished the bracket and charger so excuse the glare )
I was NOT able to use the bolt hole that also supports the bottom of the alternator. I tried it and the body of the tensioner would hit the belt\, even under tension. I had to drill a new hole .75" above the altenator bolt hole and mount it there. This way I had the clearence between the body of the tensioner and the belt.
Also, I needed to put 2 washers between the pulley and the spring arm to move the pulley closer to the block. (This was to center the blower belt on the pulley.
Otherwise I think that this setup is going to work great. Have a decent amount of blower pulley wrap now, and the tension should remain consistant even under higer rpms.
Here are two pics. (I just polished the bracket and charger so excuse the glare )
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Was not crazy with the black plastic top on the spring loaded tensioner. I chucked a chunk of aluminum in the lathe and spun myself a new one. I think it goes much better with the polished arm etc. However,I am NUTS!!!
Last edited by novass; 01-09-2005 at 04:03 PM.
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
I would say that it probably is a 10 rib pulley on the tensioner. I have a 8 rib belt and it seems to have enough extra room for antother two ribs.
#33
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
Very nice,I like the new cover for the tensioner. I'm looking to relocate the tensioner mount on my setup as well. Since I have a custom setup the alternator bolt worked just fine however it also means if I need to pull the bracket I have to yank the radiator and move the AC as the bolt is too long to remove.
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
I have one spring loaded tensioner somewhere, I will se if I can maka a new pulley for it and make it fit, otherwise maybe someone here will be willing to help me get a 2028958C93 that I can use? Is hard to find those part overhere...
Ordered my F1 yesterday....
Ordered my F1 yesterday....
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Car: 90 454SS
Engine: 454 TBI
Transmission: TH400
Originally posted by gta324
maybe someone here will be willing to help me get a 2028958C93 that I can use?
maybe someone here will be willing to help me get a 2028958C93 that I can use?
I've seen a pic of a spring loaded tensioner on the marine kit for the BBC, but couldn't find a p/n at Vortech's website
Last edited by va454ss; 01-18-2005 at 05:12 AM.
#39
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Update.
I removed one 12rib idler pulley from my procharger bracket and made a "adapter" to make it fit the tensioner and it looks good...
Now I have to make a 12mm plate to put between the bracket and tensioner, the pulley is now wider than the tensioner....
I removed one 12rib idler pulley from my procharger bracket and made a "adapter" to make it fit the tensioner and it looks good...
Now I have to make a 12mm plate to put between the bracket and tensioner, the pulley is now wider than the tensioner....
Last edited by gta324; 05-20-2005 at 07:29 AM.
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
I had to move the radiator forward to clear the tensioner and 12 rib belt......
I also moved the FAN forward, mounted it in front of the plastic that lies over the radiator, if you know what i mean?
I also moved the FAN forward, mounted it in front of the plastic that lies over the radiator, if you know what i mean?
Last edited by gta324; 05-26-2005 at 01:02 AM.
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
OK,
I have been running my 8rib procharger sp1 12lb pulley with the spring loaded tensioner and I am still getting belt slip!!! When I get into boost I can actually smell the belt rubber.
The others who are running this type of setup are you getting a fair amount of slip?
What other suggestions,becides a 12rib or cog, might you have?
I have been running my 8rib procharger sp1 12lb pulley with the spring loaded tensioner and I am still getting belt slip!!! When I get into boost I can actually smell the belt rubber.
The others who are running this type of setup are you getting a fair amount of slip?
What other suggestions,becides a 12rib or cog, might you have?
#48
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none, just cog btw I did not have to move my rad. foward like the 12 rib. if I did though I bet I would have bit of room, both fans are there too. I had to replace the drivers side fan motor with a shorter one though
Last edited by 88 350 tpi formula; 07-14-2005 at 08:09 PM.
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Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23
Originally posted by novass
OK,
I have been running my 8rib procharger sp1 12lb pulley with the spring loaded tensioner and I am still getting belt slip!!! When I get into boost I can actually smell the belt rubber.
The others who are running this type of setup are you getting a fair amount of slip?
What other suggestions,becides a 12rib or cog, might you have?
OK,
I have been running my 8rib procharger sp1 12lb pulley with the spring loaded tensioner and I am still getting belt slip!!! When I get into boost I can actually smell the belt rubber.
The others who are running this type of setup are you getting a fair amount of slip?
What other suggestions,becides a 12rib or cog, might you have?
With a 3.75" blower pulley I see about 10lbs at 5000rpm with very little slip at all. It would be interesting to see what every one else get with the automatic tensioner.
Also 88 350 tpi formula, what fan motor do you use thats shorter? I would love to be able to run my stock fan on the drivers side but the motor gets in the way