New D-1 cog/Brackets *pics*
#2
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
might want at least a spring style wheel tensioner on the bottom of that belt to control centrifugal flap and belt harmonics
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I only suggested a spring style one because you have everything else pretty well taken care of. This one would simply only be along for a ride to control only "flap" nothing more.
#5
that looks frickin' awesome biggtime! reminds me of my buddies d-3 blown bigblock malibu station wagon (big bracket and cog drive)
do you run with any organization? if not, you should check out the NSCA! i am sure we have a place to put you! www.nsca-racing.com
do you run with any organization? if not, you should check out the NSCA! i am sure we have a place to put you! www.nsca-racing.com
#6
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Generally, a spring loaded tensioner is required on any length of multiple v-belt because the stuff stretches as it goes. Without one you’d need to tension them repeatedly when new and when their temp changes. I don’t know that a cogged belt is the same, AAMOF, if it’s like the Kevlar cogged belts that I’m used to dealing with (used on large tape robots) I would be very surprised if it stretched.
I would have used one just because they’re easier to deal with after you get them right.
{Edited for lack of intelligent content due to no sleep… actually, haven’t gotten any yet, but waiting for something an looking in here again. Basically, the only thing worth while that I said here was that any idler/tensioner should be on the coast side of the belt (a belt can’t push, it can only pull), the drive side (pulling) will stay tight as long as the pulleys/cogs are turning and the belt is able to grab. The other side is the one that will flap around and cause problems, if it gets bad enough it will try skip and then rip off cogs. The only reason that you would put an idler on that side is if you were worried about belt wrap and wanted one on both sides of the blower pulley, and then you would put it closer to the blower pulley (practically as close as you can get it, you’re not going to effect the belt wrap on the big pulley much no matter what you do but the closer you get it to the small pulley the more belt wrap you can get with the same tensioning) not that there is anything wrong in with the setup in bigtime’s pics}
It looks good, but I still would have done what I suggested in other threads… instead of the big honking block of aluminum that you have there I would have welded a couple of ribs to it and made it out of thinner sheet or put big lightening holes in all the open spaces on something that thick. I bet that you could save >20# off that bracket and have something stiffer. For that matter, depending on the grade of aluminum you used, you might be able to make a lighter, more rigid bracket out of steel (of course, it wouldn’t look as cool as a machined out aluminum one). Hell, I bet that you could take close to that out of that one by carefully cutting out some of the big flat areas while barely affecting strength/stiffness (take a look at the vintage air brackets for a good example).
I would have used one just because they’re easier to deal with after you get them right.
{Edited for lack of intelligent content due to no sleep… actually, haven’t gotten any yet, but waiting for something an looking in here again. Basically, the only thing worth while that I said here was that any idler/tensioner should be on the coast side of the belt (a belt can’t push, it can only pull), the drive side (pulling) will stay tight as long as the pulleys/cogs are turning and the belt is able to grab. The other side is the one that will flap around and cause problems, if it gets bad enough it will try skip and then rip off cogs. The only reason that you would put an idler on that side is if you were worried about belt wrap and wanted one on both sides of the blower pulley, and then you would put it closer to the blower pulley (practically as close as you can get it, you’re not going to effect the belt wrap on the big pulley much no matter what you do but the closer you get it to the small pulley the more belt wrap you can get with the same tensioning) not that there is anything wrong in with the setup in bigtime’s pics}
It looks good, but I still would have done what I suggested in other threads… instead of the big honking block of aluminum that you have there I would have welded a couple of ribs to it and made it out of thinner sheet or put big lightening holes in all the open spaces on something that thick. I bet that you could save >20# off that bracket and have something stiffer. For that matter, depending on the grade of aluminum you used, you might be able to make a lighter, more rigid bracket out of steel (of course, it wouldn’t look as cool as a machined out aluminum one). Hell, I bet that you could take close to that out of that one by carefully cutting out some of the big flat areas while barely affecting strength/stiffness (take a look at the vintage air brackets for a good example).
Last edited by 83 Crossfire TA; 07-28-2004 at 05:55 AM.
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#8
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Ok, fine... that's what happens when you get an hour of sleep in the last 2 days... sorry... disregard all of that (I suppose that I could just edit my post but then your response wouldn't make any sense).
I thought that what I was seeing wasn't agreeing with what I was typing...
I thought that what I was seeing wasn't agreeing with what I was typing...
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I didnt even think about the tensioner being on the correct "side" either way, I want one, of everything, belt, bracket, tensioner, and idler in the configuration for P1sc/D1sc/F1 (like mine)
hey with that clocking are you going non intercooled?
hey with that clocking are you going non intercooled?
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Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Yea that is pretty impressive but when you have a bottomless budget (compared to most of us backyarders) then you can make a lot of cars that are unreasonable, reasonable. LOL
bigtime, get rid of that thing, and slap a T91 on instead!
It DOES look good though. Nice work
bigtime, get rid of that thing, and slap a T91 on instead!
It DOES look good though. Nice work
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Car: 84 Z..err 92 now
Engine: 402 LS1 Procharged-14 psi-629 hp!
Transmission: T56
The 71 is owned by a guy that works there. Just a average guy from what I understand. All the procharger guys I have meet have been really cool. I keep trying to get a job there but no luck.
#20
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Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by biggtime
I made them up. I am selling the D-1 though if you are interested. i have 12 rib pulleys/tensioner for it and you can buy the mounting bracket for your car from ATI for $300.00. Email me if you are interested.
bigtimeauto@verizon.net
I made them up. I am selling the D-1 though if you are interested. i have 12 rib pulleys/tensioner for it and you can buy the mounting bracket for your car from ATI for $300.00. Email me if you are interested.
bigtimeauto@verizon.net
#21
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Looks really good... though I feel bad for that crank . The ribs let you run less tension than a serp setup so maybe it's better off that way.
Another thing, to make it look really nice slap it on a mill and hog out some of that thick plate.
I love seeing rib belts, it's as if it's telling me "time to kick some...."
Another thing, to make it look really nice slap it on a mill and hog out some of that thick plate.
I love seeing rib belts, it's as if it's telling me "time to kick some...."
#22
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by novass
Why are you selling the d1....what is next?
Why are you selling the d1....what is next?
betcha betcha betcha he's going for a turbo! eh Bob, you gettin a turbo?
[/rumor generator]
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 12-18-2004 at 05:33 PM.
#24
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Will you be switching to a single plane?
#26
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I have been following the intake that Holley uses in their EFI kit since before they bought the rights to make it. But I have never seen this one Bob, it is not like the one I am familiar with.
What can you tell me about it? does it fit 1206/1207 size ports? if not can it be ported? how much was it?
My friend has my old one (just like the one included in the holley kit) and he needs one to fit the 1206 sized ports (almost) on the 412 I am pulling from my B4C. He is going to buy the new edelbrock "Victor EFI" one but your intake there looks like it will take his fuel rails, and the edelbrock doesn't.
What can you tell me about it? does it fit 1206/1207 size ports? if not can it be ported? how much was it?
My friend has my old one (just like the one included in the holley kit) and he needs one to fit the 1206 sized ports (almost) on the 412 I am pulling from my B4C. He is going to buy the new edelbrock "Victor EFI" one but your intake there looks like it will take his fuel rails, and the edelbrock doesn't.
#28
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I thought for sure that holley would be making that one to make the guys at Bill Mitchells happy. They have been fitting their big inch small block crate motors (427-454 sbc) with the regular manifold like is on the JYD. The "other" holley one instead of having nice bungs, it has a "recess" that indents into the port runner to provide a machining shelf for the injector holes. Well this makes a protrusion into the ports hampering airflow and making turbulence as you could well guess.
Rainsed runner you say? well that might be just what my friend needs the pro actions on that 412 are raised runner (supposedly). what kind of measurement do those ports have?
as to the edelbrock not being available, according to summit if you buy it today it will ship today (I.E. in stock)
#29785 manifold at summit
Rainsed runner you say? well that might be just what my friend needs the pro actions on that 412 are raised runner (supposedly). what kind of measurement do those ports have?
as to the edelbrock not being available, according to summit if you buy it today it will ship today (I.E. in stock)
#29785 manifold at summit
#32
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Wow, I see now. I was wondering do you know does Holley even have a 1206 sized EFI intake? or do they only have the 1205 and the raised runner? It seems as if they simply skipped over a whole popular class of intake gasket size.
#34
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Yeah that sad piece is the one we have already but we got ours before holley ever bought the rights to cast it (hence ours has no "holley" or holley numbers on it).
If you look right were the injectors go on that manifold you can almost see the hint of the huge protrusion that exists in the port roof right inside the opening. Whomever designed it must have designed the 7.5" GM rear.
You cant even begin to port this "dent" out without removing any chance of injector o-ring seal or the injector boss all together. The problem is that this "performance" EFI intake has an "innie" injector bung instead of an "outtie".
Anyways its a 1205 port size at best, this is the intake that Bill Mitchells guys didn't like and I don't blame them. I hope holley heeds the call and builds one that fits 1206/1207 gasket heads.
In the meantime it sounds like the 412 for the JYD will have to get the Edelbrock one. If not from Summit then from elsewhere. The way I see it, if summit has them then in stock then I could guess other shops "might" be able to order me one in.
As far as raised runners go I'm not even familiar with who makes raised runner heads. I think AFR makes one and Brodix, probably pro-action. I would be curious to know though.
If you look right were the injectors go on that manifold you can almost see the hint of the huge protrusion that exists in the port roof right inside the opening. Whomever designed it must have designed the 7.5" GM rear.
You cant even begin to port this "dent" out without removing any chance of injector o-ring seal or the injector boss all together. The problem is that this "performance" EFI intake has an "innie" injector bung instead of an "outtie".
Anyways its a 1205 port size at best, this is the intake that Bill Mitchells guys didn't like and I don't blame them. I hope holley heeds the call and builds one that fits 1206/1207 gasket heads.
In the meantime it sounds like the 412 for the JYD will have to get the Edelbrock one. If not from Summit then from elsewhere. The way I see it, if summit has them then in stock then I could guess other shops "might" be able to order me one in.
As far as raised runners go I'm not even familiar with who makes raised runner heads. I think AFR makes one and Brodix, probably pro-action. I would be curious to know though.
#36
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I don't think I want to do all of that.
But I do figure the heads I have now and the Edelbrock Victor EFI intake Part #29785 and fuel rails # 3630 fit a 1206 gasket and that intake is what we will probably be using.
Edelbrock site:
intake
rails
as far as those elbows for ford TB's go, they are fairly cheap to buy (around $100), Im not sure but I think that Precision turbo has them the cheapest.
But I do figure the heads I have now and the Edelbrock Victor EFI intake Part #29785 and fuel rails # 3630 fit a 1206 gasket and that intake is what we will probably be using.
Edelbrock site:
intake
rails
as far as those elbows for ford TB's go, they are fairly cheap to buy (around $100), Im not sure but I think that Precision turbo has them the cheapest.
#38
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
heck, the way it was sitting in that picture I thought that was the kind of placement you wanted.
#39
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
heck, the way it was sitting in that picture I thought that was the kind of placement you wanted.
heck, the way it was sitting in that picture I thought that was the kind of placement you wanted.
#40
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I have always understood them to be that shape and length so as to not hurt flow in the transition.
#42
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
it couldnt be any worse than a 4bbl TB with a carp air cap on it
#45
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
the lower heat edge welds look a little rough but a trip to a polishing wheel would make it Beautimus. Either way its better than I could do.
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