supermaxxbasher

ok I want to order a weiand 142 blower for my rebuilt 350 with 9:1 compression and hyper pistons..what i want to know is how much boost do the stock pulleys that come with the blower produce....I have heard I will be safe if I use around 4 psi with VERY conservative timing and running 93 octane...everything on the engine is stock except a crane cam and accel distributor,cap,rotor, super coil, and MSD 6 ignition with 8.5mm wires...I really want to run a blower but dont want to have to tear into my freshly rebuilt motor....so if I can run like 3 or 4psi that would be cool.....while using a 700cfm double pumper holly carb..

SweetS10v8

Youll need a MSD 6 BTM, to take out timing when you hit boost. I dont know about boosting on hyperu. pistons, Ive heard they arent the best for it.

Please tell me you have headers and exhaust work done to???? Nothing like forcing air in a motor, with no good way of getting it out...

supermaxxbasher

Would a 700cfm be enough on a overall stock engine?If I run 4 psi what pulleys do I need and would that be good on 9:1 with 93 octane.....guys I need answers ASAP!!! I am going to order tonight or tommorrow!!! ITs either the blower and 700cfm carb or..............a set of heads, cam, intake, 1.6 rockers,2600 stall converter, and a stage 2 shift kit for the turbo 350.....I would rather have a supercharger because of the power they make even if I can only run 4psi for now....

supermaxxbasher

Yes I have long tube headers and true duals

CrazyHawaiian

Man tell me about it. My car is retarded (but I blame it on the previous owner) hahahaha.

Charlo

4 psi should be fine on premium. Holley has a nice chart and some good tech info here . Scroll down about a third of the way for the chart. I cant help you on the pulleys.

Charlo

MrDude_1

with a blown 350, a 700cfm would be great... because the air is still getting pulled thru the motor, the carb behaves as if the motor had a larger displacement.... so bigger then normal carbs are fine on the street... i wouldnt go below 700 though... i like 750s, but the 700 wont be whats holding you back.

i say GOFORIT

supermaxxbasher

Hey thanks guys..I think I will go with a 750cfm for well being and keeping the timing set low or in moderation...Does anyone know the size of the lower crank pulley..is it 7" or 6"

B4Ctom1

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=ring+gap

sleepybu

6"

you'll get around 5 to 6lbs of boost with the pully they give you...

Damon

The amount of boost you'll actually see depends on your heads, cam, exhaust, carb size and displacement. In other words, how well the motor "breathes" with the basic combination of parts. Stock pulleys on a stock (~250HP) 350ci motor will be about 6 PSI. On a 350ci with better heads and a smidge more cam you might only see 4 PSI.

You'll need a cheap boost gague to know for sure. AutoMeter and others have them. The fitting screws right into the port on the lower intake of the 142 blower (driver's side, on cylinder #5). You can temporarily duck tape the gague to the windshield while you're dialing it in. Once you know what your boost is at WOT you can remove the gague (boost will always be the same unless you change the cam, heads, ehxuast, or any of the basic "hardware" of the engine). Changes in jetting/timing, etc. won't have any effect on the boost. You can kinda "set it and forget it."

You don't need a timing retard. A roots blower basically sees boost in relation to throttle position and does not ramp up as RPMs increase (maybe only very slightly). All you need to do is keep your inital and centrifugal timing fairly conservative and you'll be just fine. About 28* to total timing (initial + centrifugal, not including any vacuum advance) is all you will need. Don't "push the envelope." The slight HP gain from more timing isn't worth the consequences if you encounter detonation.

A good starting "advance curve" to shoot for would look like this:

12* initial timing
16* centrifugal timing, all-in by about 2800 RPMs
12 + 16 = 28* total timing
16* vacuum advance added in on top of that

Your distributor probably won't exactly meet those specs (most distributors have more than 16* centrifugal advance). The main thing to keep track of is that TOTAL advance not exceed 28*. That's how much advance it sees under actual WOT load. You don't want that to be too high or destructive detonation will be the result.

For instance, if you distributor gives ~22* centrifugal advance then you would want to set your intial at only 6* so you still top out at only 28* under WOT (6 + 22 = 28*). Don't worry if that sounds a little low. You can always run a little more vacuum advance to keep part throttle performance "snappy"

Have fun with it. You're just gonna LOVE the sound the blower makes the first time you lay into it!

MrDude_1

btw, you're going to need a low cowl hood to clear the carb and aircleaner.... so figure that into your total cost.

supermaxxbasher

alright the blower, carb, and 4.6psi pulley get sent out on monday and should be here on wednesday or thursday...I cant wait to bolt this sucker on and lay into it....:hail:



One more question...I have NGK v-power sparks plugs in my car right now. Should I stay with these or should I go with a colder plug..If I need a colder plug please recommend one for me please cause I dont know spark plugs that well...and if you can give a part number

supermaxxbasher

should i change plugs or not?

supermaxxbasher

ok guys here is another question...I have a turbo 350 tranny and I need to know what I am supposed to do about mounting my throttle cable and kickdown cable to the blower....I am confused about what to do..

Damon

Leave the plugs alone for now. You want to change as few things as you can for now. You can put in fresh plugs later, and go a range or two colder if you like, but that's fine tuning stuff. It'll run fine with the plugs you got in it for now.

You'll need a different system to locate the throttle/kickdown cables AND you'll probably need a longer kickdown cable to reach up to the carb since it's sitting about 4" higher (farther away from the trans) than it used to.

The cable bracket you have a couple of choices. Either one that bolts to the carb itself (using the rear corner hold-down bolt) or one that bolts to the rear-most 2 intake bolts. The one that bolts to the carb itself is easy, but usually only available for a Holley style carb. You can get a cheap one from Spectre (the cheap chrome parts people) or better quality ones from many aftermarket suppliers- Holley, Moroso, etc. The kind that bolts to the intake manifold is usually to way to go if you're using a Qjet or other "oddball" carb (that's what I use with the QJet on top of my 142). Available from Moroso or Mr. Gasket- I forget which. It WON'T be tall enough out of the box. You have to have it cut in half, and an appropriate length extension welded in (usually about 4") to get it up high enough (again, this is what I did).

The longer/adjustable kickdown cable can be bought from B&M. You'll have to drop the tranny pan to install it- it's gotta be attached to the kickdown lever arm inside the tranny, but is otherwise not difficult to do. When adjusting it's length just remember that you want to have just a smidge of travel left in it (1/8"), even with the throttle wide open.

The throttle cable usually has enough length to it that you can still reach up to the higher-mounted carb once you get the bracket issues worked out.

supermaxxbasher

ok I ordered a bracket for my throttle cable and kickdown cable but I am going to be switching over to my 700r4 that I have had overhauled and I B&M makes a TV cable for it and i am wondering if it will be long enough to make it up to the top of the blower. It will be about a week to 2 weeks before I install it though.


YAY!! my blower, carb, fuel line, air cleaner, pulley, will all be here on FRIDAY!!! THis is gonna be so cool...Not to shabby for a 17 year old working at a grocery store...HAHAHA

Damon

Call B&M tech support and ask them. They are the only people who will know if the cable is longer than stock. You may welll find that they offer a special longer cable to fit your application.

You're dow to the short strokes here. It's all about the details. Since I haven't built a combo that is exactly like yours I'm outta knowlege at this point.

supermaxxbasher

hey damon thanks for the help.....Do you have any pics of your blower in your car???

supermaxxbasher

I am gonna have a holley 700cfm double pumper carb with a 14"x4" air cleaner with a drop base sitting on it....can anyone guess I which size cowl hood I am gonna need.....I would like to use a 3" but if I need a 4" I will have to make that work I guess...I am only 5'7" and I dont want my vision completely blocked by the cowl....so which should i do....

MrDude_1

i would get the lower cowl.

then if the 14x4 doesnt work, i would either run a 14x3 or get the GM drop base (or a repro of it)... that will give you a extra inch for the filter.

you can make it fit...

Damon

You're probably going to need the 4" hood just to clear a standard 14x3 with drop base. You don't want to start getting the lid of the air cleaner too close to the top of the carb. WEIRD fuel metering can result- bogs and stumbles that simply can't be tuned out. The air needs room to "straighten out" before it goes down through the venturis. 1" bare minimum off the top of the choke tower (if your carb is so equipped). 1.5" bare minimum if there is no choke tower.

This is just as important, if not more, than getting plenty of total filter area to feed the engine.

No, the K&N Xtreme flow lid WON'T help. It flows through the top but the pleats stick down inside the air cleaner and choke off flow considerably on a low profile drop-base air filter. It also violates the "nothing within 1 inch of the top of the carb" rule.

Pics of my setup are in the sticky thread about "post pics of your power adder" at the top of this forum.

supermaxxbasher

ok guys I got the blower and stuff installed....I HAVE A MAJOR PROBLEM....my holley 700DP only has fittings for the distr. vacuum, tranny vacuum and PCV valve....where does that leave me for power brakes????????///I need help really badly....

Damon

See the brass plug on the pass. side of the blower up near the carb? It goes there. Find a fitting that will screw into those threads and has a 3/8" hose nipple on the other side. Then run 3/8" vacuum hose from it over to the power brake booster and you're good to go.

I beleive it's a 1/4" pipe-thread type fitting. 1/4" pipe thread is a lot bigger than 1/4" so don't let the weird spec fool you. Being a pipe thread it won't ever "bottom out". It just gets tighter and tighter as you turn it. Just snug with some thread sealant on the threads will do fine. Don't over-tighten it.

supermaxxbasher

Well I figured out that problem now I have some more.....I have the timing set back to around 4*..I ran it for about 1 1/2 minutes yesterday and the thing got so freaking hot and after I shut it off alittle steam could be seen coming out of a little open hole in the drivers side of the intake manifold.....what the crap did I do wrong or what is going on or something .....I am going crazy here!

Damon

A little open hole on the driver's side intake manifold????

You mean on the lower intake manifold about 2/3 of the way back near the #6 cylinder's intake port?

If so, you have to plug that port (I beleive it's another 1/4" Pipe Thread plug). That's where you would ordinarily screw in a boost gague. If you don't have a boost gague it's nothing but a big 'ol giant vacuum leak. Definitely won't run right if it's just left open.

supermaxxbasher

Yeah that is the hole I blocked it off for now....but now my intake gasket failed by the water inlets of the heads and oil is getting in the radiator but not in./on the oil dipstick so its not that serious...and it turned out that I had the stock fel pro gaskets rather than the ones they suggest.....what is the bolt tightening sequence for this intake manifold before I put the right gaskets in...

SweetS10v8

Should be the same, Center out...

supermaxxbasher

alright thanks....

supermaxxbasher

well the blower was installed with all bolts torqued perfectly and all cleareances were within there ranges....but yet this morning as I am driving around my blower locked up on me and in the sight plug I could see parts of gears in behind it...

Damon

I think you over-tightend the blower hold down bolts. That's exactly what happens when you do that. 12 ft/lbs means 12 ft/lbs- no more. That's like SCREEWDRIVER tight, not wrench tight. If you take the blower off I bet you'll find evidence of the blower lobes scraping the inside of the blower case. Usually around the rear passenger side of the blower is the worst part. Call wherever you bought it and come up with a GOOD story of why you did nothing wrong and maybe they will warranty it for you.

BTW- you DID fill the lube level on the blower correctly before you ran it around? Lube should be about 1/3 of the way up the sight glass on the front of the blower. If that was your probablem then I'd fill it to the proper level NOW, and then return it for warranty replacement. Just uses regular 80/90W gear lube like you would put in a rear end. Fill it a little bit at a time- it takes time for the lube to OOOZE down over everything and show a proper level.

Trust me, you'll only make mistakes like this ONCE with these blowers becuase it's too expensive to keep screwing them up. One warranty replacement is pretty easy to get- after that you're usually on your own.

supermaxxbasher

well I used 10ft/lbs of torque on those bolts which when I checked the clearances between case and rotor they were checking good....as for the oil it came half way up the sight glass....Yes I ordered it from summit racing and they said to call weiand service center so I did and the guy told me to send it back to summit for the warranty..So I called summit back with his name and # and they told me to ship it back to them for replacement..

MrDude_1

sucky dude..... but atleast you're getting a replacement.

if you dont mind me asking, what did you use to check the TQ of the bolts as you tighten them?

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

A hammer

supermaxxbasher

an adjustable torque wrench

SweetS10v8

AKA: The Ford Wrench

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I used to think it was a Mexican Speed Wrench, but a friend of mine who's half Puerto Rican corrected my misconception and informed me that it should more properly be credited to his forefathers as the Puerto Rican Speed Wrench.. With his expert help I've refined my speed wrenching skills and upgraded to the 3# speed wrench for most jobs, which is not only capable of properly torquing most fasteners but also in most cases completely dispensing with the messy process of drilling and tapping holes, even in most metals.

(and if I just offended you… get a life)

supermaxxbasher