M90 Question (Saturn5)
#1
M90 Question (Saturn5)
I want to do something different to get my power. Anyone can have a 383. There are no "ooo's and aww's" when opening the hood. Turbos were researched and are deffiantely on the list. I had bought a Paxton Supercharger but realized it really wasn't good enough for what I have planned.
Having previously looked over the twin M90 setup, its at the top of my list at the moment. My question is, they need to be oiled i assume. But from where? Do i need to run a line and drain into the pan like turbos?
These will be on a ZZ1 crate engine with a set of iron protopline heads and eventually a more blower specific cam.
Also, what supercharger is used on the Grand Prix GTP? I don't think it would be as easy to use but they are just as available.
Thanks,
Jason
Having previously looked over the twin M90 setup, its at the top of my list at the moment. My question is, they need to be oiled i assume. But from where? Do i need to run a line and drain into the pan like turbos?
These will be on a ZZ1 crate engine with a set of iron protopline heads and eventually a more blower specific cam.
Also, what supercharger is used on the Grand Prix GTP? I don't think it would be as easy to use but they are just as available.
Thanks,
Jason
#2
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Re: M90 Question (Saturn5)
I want to do something different to get my power. Anyone can have a 383. There are no "ooo's and aww's" when opening the hood. Turbos were researched and are deffiantely on the list. I had bought a Paxton Supercharger but realized it really wasn't good enough for what I have planned.
< oooo aawww
Having previously looked over the twin M90 setup, its at the top of my list at the moment. My question is, they need to be oiled i assume. But from where? Do i need to run a line and drain into the pan like turbos?
< Eaton blowers are self contained oiliing, in fact you can rotate a M90 around the shaft without problems.
These will be on a ZZ1 crate engine with a set of iron protopline heads and eventually a more blower specific cam.
< cool.
Also, what supercharger is used on the Grand Prix GTP? I don't think it would be as easy to use but they are just as available.
< Avoid the GTP blowers are the housings are a different casting that has the TB. Also there are 2 different Eatons used on the GTP. The M62 and the M90. (M62 is the little brother)
BW
< oooo aawww
Having previously looked over the twin M90 setup, its at the top of my list at the moment. My question is, they need to be oiled i assume. But from where? Do i need to run a line and drain into the pan like turbos?
< Eaton blowers are self contained oiliing, in fact you can rotate a M90 around the shaft without problems.
These will be on a ZZ1 crate engine with a set of iron protopline heads and eventually a more blower specific cam.
< cool.
Also, what supercharger is used on the Grand Prix GTP? I don't think it would be as easy to use but they are just as available.
< Avoid the GTP blowers are the housings are a different casting that has the TB. Also there are 2 different Eatons used on the GTP. The M62 and the M90. (M62 is the little brother)
BW
#4
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Originally posted by bEtUr4dRustang
Thanks a lot.
What oil do you run in them?
Thanks a lot.
What oil do you run in them?
Not sure, I have not had to replace/change mine.
83 Crossfire TA has had a M90 apart before and I'm sure he knows.
BW
#5
I remember reading that. I think he said he was able to get a lot more boost out of it too by taking a dremel to it.
Saturn, yours are pullied stock right now with the Tbird pulley sizes? Thats giving you 12 lbs too right? Im going to have to say that that is exactly what i want anyhow so i guess openning those things up isn't really an issue. Then again, im running a better flowing 350, so maybe that should be looked into.
BTW, where do these things redline? can they really be overdriven much more than stock?
Thanks
Saturn, yours are pullied stock right now with the Tbird pulley sizes? Thats giving you 12 lbs too right? Im going to have to say that that is exactly what i want anyhow so i guess openning those things up isn't really an issue. Then again, im running a better flowing 350, so maybe that should be looked into.
BTW, where do these things redline? can they really be overdriven much more than stock?
Thanks
#6
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 0
From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
I've had 10-12lb boost, with a high of 14 early on with the 305. Boost has fallen as the 305 seems to have developed a lot of blowby.
M90's redline at 14K and I am currently running stock pulleys.
83 Crossfire TA has overdriven them to 18K@6500 RPM. Sofar from what I gather without problems. Hopefully he will pipe in and give you more details.
cheers, BW
M90's redline at 14K and I am currently running stock pulleys.
83 Crossfire TA has overdriven them to 18K@6500 RPM. Sofar from what I gather without problems. Hopefully he will pipe in and give you more details.
cheers, BW
#7
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,981
Likes: 85
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Why would anyone do something so nutty?
yes, they use a specific oil, you can get it from any dealer that used an eaton OEM. I found that it’s about 2-3x as much at a ford dealer then a GM dealer.
Dremel is a bit of an understatement. The case that we’re using now was originally modified on a mill, but the majority of the work was done with an die grinder and carbide burs. All the work could be done with just an die grinder, though something like a mill or even a router with a heavy carbide cutting bit would speed things up dramatically.
Yes, it’s being spun to just over 18K without any issues. The car is running low 11’s at about 119mph through the traps, which considering it’s a 4 door with a little 302, 8.5” wide slicks and a tiny little eaton blower isn’t half bad. I think that right now there’s about 40hp tied up in a crappy exhaust on that car.
yes, they use a specific oil, you can get it from any dealer that used an eaton OEM. I found that it’s about 2-3x as much at a ford dealer then a GM dealer.
Dremel is a bit of an understatement. The case that we’re using now was originally modified on a mill, but the majority of the work was done with an die grinder and carbide burs. All the work could be done with just an die grinder, though something like a mill or even a router with a heavy carbide cutting bit would speed things up dramatically.
Yes, it’s being spun to just over 18K without any issues. The car is running low 11’s at about 119mph through the traps, which considering it’s a 4 door with a little 302, 8.5” wide slicks and a tiny little eaton blower isn’t half bad. I think that right now there’s about 40hp tied up in a crappy exhaust on that car.
Last edited by 83 Crossfire TA; 09-26-2003 at 06:32 PM.
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#11
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,981
Likes: 85
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
If you really want to know…
He snagged a “6000mile” shortblock that was supposedly used in a turbocharged setup sight unseen. We got it, ripped it apart on the kitchen floor of my mom’s condo, turned out it had wiped main bearings and no crosshatch in the bores. We didn’t have any machine work done, just put some new bearings in it, checked clearances and slapped it together. It had some el cheepo Badger forged pistons in it plus whatever parts store bearings we could find on a Sunday. Made a homemade crank scraper using a piece of steel strapping from Home Depot, a hack saw and a file (tapped the main webbing for little bolts to hold it in) and dropped it in the car. Later on a set of TFS heads and intake were added that resulted in having to “fly cut” the pistons using a dremel while the engine was in the car. I suspect that the previous owner had the block decked since it took 2 tries to get the intake ends to seal (the gap is too big there, suggesting that we really should get the heads or intake milled, but the short block isn’t worth spending the effort on, more RTV fixed it eventually)
So it’s about 8.6:1 with a aluminum heads, a lunati 218/228/112 hydraulic roller cam (never confirmed it, that the person that he bought it from said it was) and a lot of stock or cheesy parts with an undetermined number of miles on it (I believe that my brother has put over 60K on what we assembled, no idea how much it really had when he got it, it was much more then the advertised 6K). It’s been putting somewhere in the 450-500hp range to the crank for about 2 years now.
It will run 10’s if we ever get the chance to tweak it some. It got hit by a snowplow last winter so it’s spent a bunch of time in the body shop and my brother had back surgery this summer taking him out of commission for a few months so it’s only been to the track a few times this year. It did manage to destroy a set of slicks…weirdest thing, one of them actually ripped lengthwise…
We’re looking for a deal on a “new” 302 shortblock to build up for it, maybe do it a little more “right” this time, and have it done before this one blows up.
He snagged a “6000mile” shortblock that was supposedly used in a turbocharged setup sight unseen. We got it, ripped it apart on the kitchen floor of my mom’s condo, turned out it had wiped main bearings and no crosshatch in the bores. We didn’t have any machine work done, just put some new bearings in it, checked clearances and slapped it together. It had some el cheepo Badger forged pistons in it plus whatever parts store bearings we could find on a Sunday. Made a homemade crank scraper using a piece of steel strapping from Home Depot, a hack saw and a file (tapped the main webbing for little bolts to hold it in) and dropped it in the car. Later on a set of TFS heads and intake were added that resulted in having to “fly cut” the pistons using a dremel while the engine was in the car. I suspect that the previous owner had the block decked since it took 2 tries to get the intake ends to seal (the gap is too big there, suggesting that we really should get the heads or intake milled, but the short block isn’t worth spending the effort on, more RTV fixed it eventually)
So it’s about 8.6:1 with a aluminum heads, a lunati 218/228/112 hydraulic roller cam (never confirmed it, that the person that he bought it from said it was) and a lot of stock or cheesy parts with an undetermined number of miles on it (I believe that my brother has put over 60K on what we assembled, no idea how much it really had when he got it, it was much more then the advertised 6K). It’s been putting somewhere in the 450-500hp range to the crank for about 2 years now.
It will run 10’s if we ever get the chance to tweak it some. It got hit by a snowplow last winter so it’s spent a bunch of time in the body shop and my brother had back surgery this summer taking him out of commission for a few months so it’s only been to the track a few times this year. It did manage to destroy a set of slicks…weirdest thing, one of them actually ripped lengthwise…
We’re looking for a deal on a “new” 302 shortblock to build up for it, maybe do it a little more “right” this time, and have it done before this one blows up.
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