I recently bought a used ati p600 kit and it did not come with the fuel pump. Should I just call ATI and order the one that came with the kit or should I get a different one like a T rex. In either case do the fuel lines have to be cut or do they come with fittings and lines to connect where the filter is? Also, do these pumps come with any wiring?
Thanks for the info guys.

 

I would just get an aftermarket in-tank pump like a walboro or something. Simple solution, don't have to re-wire anything or re-plumb the fuel lines.

 

I just recently replaced the fuel pump with the intank wahlbro 255 so I didnt want to change it out. If thats the best way to go tho I will do it. It would be a lot cleaner. Who is running boost with the wahlbro 340 pump and hotwire? Comments? Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Yeah, that is the one to use. I'm running that pump with my paxton. I think that's the one all the turbo buick guys run too.

 

4GF101-002 TPI FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY 1 $179/Summit (including)
8F001-002 155 inline fuel pump 1
7R003-008 1/2” adel clamp 1
7R003-024 1-1/2” adel clamp 1
7P375-050 3/8” hose mender 1
7R001-004 #4 hose clamps 4
7U100-055 6” nylon tie wraps 6
5W001-011 16-14GA eyelet 1
5W001-010 16-14GA female slides 3
5W118-021 18GA 10” standard black wire 1
5W118-034 18GA 156” standard red wire 1
5W001-002 Fuse tap 1
7E010-050 #12 x 1/2” sheet metal screws 2
7E010-046 #8 x 3/4” sheet metal screw 1
7U031-018 5/16 x 6” fuel hose 1

 

I run the 340 and the inline

 

IF you need an FMU here is the vortech one too:

• 4GF238-068 TPI FMU KIT (with lines) 1 $219/Summit (including)

6Z110-114 8:1 black fuel management unit 1
4GF145-156 12” fuel line assembly 1
4GF146-166 14” fuel line assembly 1
7U030-046 5/32” x 60” vacuum line 1
7E010-046 #8 x 3/4” sheet metal screws 2
7U100-055 6” nylon tie wraps 2
7R001-004 #4 hose clamps 2

 

The fuel pump on my 91z28 went out a few days ago. The motor is a L98 with a Vortech S-Trim V1 supercharger. I dont know what kind of fuel pump the previous owner used, but I do see a Vortech FMU hooked up, as well as an AFPR. I'm not sure what kind of fuel pump I should get. I know I dont want to replace it with the OEM (or equivalent) piece because the motor is boosted and I expect alot more HP pretty soon here (400-500hp). The freaking fuel filter was the STOCK piece too (very clogged, prolly what caused the pump to break). Might as well do it the right way now instead of doing it again later.

Would the 4GF101-002 TPI FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY from Summit be good enough? If I'm reading it right, it says 155 but 255 is the hot ticket right? I looked @ Summit and see a Vortech T-Rex Universal, 50 gph at 70 psi rating pump (VOR-8F002-265). Seems to be a good choice to work with the Vortech S/C (brand loyalty?) but I dont know alot about fuel pumps to tell you the truth. I also saw a MSD fuel pump (MSD-2225), but I didnt see an Intank Wahlbro 255. I have a feeling those Vortech and MSD fuel pumps are not Intank and would have alot of hidden costs to convert. What do you guys think?

I'm lost hahaha
thks guys

 

that vortech pump is the same as the one included in the parts list for the kit

 

Ah! I'm still deciding what I want to do. After inspecting the fuel lines, I think the previous owner made a boo boo. It seems they are routed too close to the engine and I'm afraid it might cause vapor lock (bubbles in the fuel line caused by high heat). I have experienced problems with the car previously, and that could be the cause. Right now I'm leaning towards redoing the fuel system from A to Z (should have been done right the first time!) including changing to an external computer controlled fuel pump and re-routing all the lines. I'm still trying to contact both MSD and Vortech to find out exactly what the previous owner has on this car, then I'll go from there. Thanks for the great info Tom!!

 

I replaced the bad in tank with a walbro 255 from vortech and kept the inline that came from ATI. Take off the inline and the car goes lean on the WB/O2 and detonates even though the fuel pressure looks good when at full boost on the dyno, put it back on and detonation goes away. I have seen a few other cars do the same thing. some were mustangs. all have FMU's